Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Engine Spins But Wouldn't Start / Vibration From Instrument Panel Area
Feb 1, 2011
-15 degrees at 7:30 this morning and my F-150 4.6L started just fine. At 9:30 and -6 engine would turn over well but wouldn't start. When I shut the key off, I would hear a "vibration" from the area of the instrument panel and the speedometer needle would shake for about 15 seconds then quit. At 1:30 the truck started fine but the trip odometer had rest to 0.0. What happened and where to start looking?
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2004 screw 5.4 xlt
I was driving home and heard a loud rat tat tat tat . I thought I might have run over something. I slowed down and the noise quit, pulled over, checked things out, nothing apparent. I was only a couple miles from home so Started driving again and the ABS light came on, then went off. Another indicator came on and went off... then the entire instrument cluster died except for the airbag light, no tach, speedo. Truck still drove fine. I stopped in the driveway shut her off and then tried to restart...no go. Kind of like a dead battery, tried to turn over.
Had a few things to take care of b4 getting back to the truck. Went out and I hear a continuous click, click, click back by the fuel cap (fuel pump)? ......but the truck is OFF no key in ignition. I disconnected the battery and the noise quit. Battery is showing 12 volts. I stuck the charger on. These symptoms sound like anything even possible???????
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I've noticed this sound coming from the instrument panel area for a while now. It comes and goes, sometimes starts in the middle of driving, sometimes starts right when I start the car. It almost sounds like I have the turn signal on, but that's not it. There isn't much to see - the video is mainly so you can hear the sound.
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We have a 2004 Dodge Sprinter 2500 Van 5 Cylinder Mercedes Turbo Diesel. Just recently, at 68,400 miles, the engine stopped abruptly (on the freeway) and various instrument panel lights turned on. When we tried to start the van again, the instrument panel lights turned on again, and there was a humming coming from under the hood. After letting the van sit for awhile, it started normally, but the engine control unit light remained on. We took it in to a nearby Dodge dealer and the mechanic recommended replacing the fuel filter. We had the filter replaced.
The engine has not stopped abruptly anymore, however, when we try to start the van immediately after shutting it down, sometimes it will not start. Instrument panel lights light up, and there is a humming coming from under the hood again. After letting the van sit for awhile longer, the van starts normally.
Previously, at 34,150 miles, the engine control unit light went on when the engine was started and stayed on for about 250 miles. The van drove normally during this time. The same thing happened at 59,100 miles and the light stayed on for about 250 miles again.
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What happened is I went to get in the truck I opened the door and the gauges and blower motor came on by itself like the ignition is in the on position. I put the key in the ignition and the truck didn't do anything. No crank or anything and I did notice the anti theft light blinking really fast. I unplugged the battery and plugged it back up then the truck started but I went to shut it off and pulled the key out the ignition and truck stayed running. But also the blower in the truck and the gauges are still staying on. People keep saying it's my key but why would the stuff cut on by itself inside the truck when I just opened the door?
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I have a 2012 Ford F 450 turbo diesel dual wheel truck,my problem is an engine light came up on the instrument panel so i hooked up my scangauge and found the code P20BA I went further into the diagnostics of the scangauge and found nothing,i cleared the code and drove down the road and the light came back on could the sensor be faulty and if so does any body know where the sensor is located.
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I have a 2004 F150 4x4 5.4L and with one front tire off the ground, truck running, when you spin the tire the half shaft turns with the tire, it does this on the left and the right when I have either off the ground. I did it with the truck running because I heard that when it is running it disengages the hubs. My question is why do my half shafts turn with the wheel in 2wd with the truck running?
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I have a 2002 Accent GS. Their is fuel flow out of the fuel filter. I've changed out the spark plugs and sprayed starting fluid into the cylinders, and still will not start. So there is no electricity to the spark plugs. Replaced all of the ECU fuses in the engine compartment and under the dash, and still will not start.
Don't think it is the coil pack, because I can't imagine both coils failing at same time. Think it is a relay or sensor. Which relay or sensor would also prevent power from going to the instrument panel gauges but still allow the instrument panel warning lights? Main relay? Crankshaft position sensor? Throttle position sensor?
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At once, all together three items on my VW Passat 2004 4Motion instrument panel stopped working:
a) engine coolant temperature gauge
b) fuel gauge
c) outside temperature digital display
What could be happening here. Does not look like a fuse issue...
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2007 accent GS check engine light will not come on the instrument panel. Showing a 650 code. What is wrong?
I bought the car a year ago. No check engine light? Could someone have dismantled the light?
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I have a 2006 Prius with 285,000 miles on it, and I have NEVER had any problems with it, and I was VERY satisfied. Today when I woke up, I went to turn on my Prius to warm it up before we left for Christmas, and I noticed that the Speedometer, Gas Gauge, and Instrument panel did not light up. The Blinkers work, MFD works, and the Check engine light pops on and then off after I start the car. Even when my lights are on, the green light in the panel doesn't illuminate.
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I finally bought our first Lexus - a slightly used 2007 RX350 (early VIN - manufactured in Feb. 2006). We are hearing some faint crackling/rattling noises from our instrument panel/steering column after applying the brakes with the car idling at a complete stop. It will crackle and rattle for about 15 seconds and then disappear until I apply the brakes again.
We had a 2008 RX350 loaner the other day and I didn't hear this noise.
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My 2011 prius and it wouldn't start and on the dashboard it shows engine image that's all no light nothing
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My 2008 F150 rattles (from engine area) when I let off gas while in traffic or in a drive-through. It almost feels as though it's going to stall. Drive thru, parking lot, traffic are all examples. "Stop and go" push the gas to move forward and quickly let off gas. I let off the gas there is a large rattle coming from my engine. Not sure if it's miss-firing or if it's an exhaust leak or a timing chain issue. I'm having trouble trying to figure this out because it does not happen all the time and have been unable to re-create when I go to the mechanic.
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Santa Fe 2013. I bought it a few months ago and soon after a strange issue appeared from time to time. When I push the start/stop button it spins the engine but it wont start no matter how much I wait. Usually it start fine for the second time. This happens sometimes and sometimes not. About 2 months ago it didn't want to start for about 5-10 minutes no matter what I tried (push the button with the tip of the key), so I decided to go to a service station.
There they connected the car to a computer to check if there were any error codes logged. But they haven't find anything, after the second time I visited the station they replaced the battery in the key, told that maybe that was the problem.
I really don't know much about cars but it was a strange idea as I would expect the same behaviour when the battery is low than when the key is not present: Car not doing anything but displaying a message that the key is not present.
Anyway, it kinda worked, or I was lucky. For more than a month everything was fine, not a single issue. And today morning it started again. I brought my car to a hand washing, and after they cleaned the outside with steam they wanted to park the car inside the building to clean the interior, and the same issue occurred. And after that it happened with me as well several times this day.
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'99 Yukon. Starter spins engine fine but engine won't start. Spray a quick shot of starter fluid or drip some gas on the air filter and it starts fine. After sitting idle for a half hour or so the situation returns. Car will run highway speeds (70-80mph) fine and will handle stop and go in town. Local mechanic wants to replace the fuel pump, which was replaced a couple of years (30,000 miles) ago. This seems an expensive first step with no diagnostics done.
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I have a 2004 ford F150 trition 4x4, I bought it in march, happen to notice that my head lights wouldn't shut off this afternoon after when I got home from town, after several phone calls n different ideas I resorted to removing a battery cable to keep my battery from dying, then tonight I decided to go to my dads, when I put the negative cable back in the battery I noticed it sparked. she drove fine there, got done visiting n on my way home my horn goes off n won't shut off till I stopped n turned the truck off, I drove all the way home with it blowing like crazy, I took the fuse out but my truck will not start with out the fuse!! I have to work tomorrow night n I have no clue what's going on!!
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Got a problem that has left me in circles. 85 BMW 325e, manual. Won't start. Previously had some driveability problems, sporadic brief stalling. Using the key in ignition switch, starter spins the engine with no hint of a start.
1. IGN components all test to spec and during start attempt there is spark on all cylinders.
2. Fuel flow and pressure is within spec, both when FP relay is jumped and during start attempt.
3. Speed and reference sensors test good.
4. All inputs to dme have been tested, including power and grounds, and are good.
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When the truck is idling it has a weird vibration and their is a hum that comes from the engine. It then clicks like my clutch fan disengages or engages and both go away. I have only noticed at stop signs and sitting in a parking lot. 2004 5.4L....
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For the last little while I have been having an issue with the 4wd in my 2006 F-150 with about 93k on the clock. Sometimes it would engage when I switched to 4H/4L and other times it wouldn't. A friend of mine works at a Ford dealership and said it could be the vacuum solenoid on the firewall going bad. So I bought a new one and as I removed the old one, noticed debris in one of the inlets. So I cleaned that out and neither old or new solved the problem. Then I went through ALL of the vacuum lines and found some debris in parts of them....
Cleaned them all out and still nothing. Then I got to thinking it may be the ESOF motor on the transfer case. Checked to make sure there was power to the plug, which there was. Removed the motor and turned switch, and the motor seemed to be working. Reattached the motor and the 4wd would engage/disengage without problem. Pretty much everywhere I went I would check it and it worked fine . Then all of a sudden it didn't . So I took the motor off, turned selector and it worked fine. No issues yesterday at all.
So, I am not sure if it is the motor going bad or not. Could there be a contact problem? I talked to a mechanic this morning and he told me to drive around with it in 4H for a while because more times than not it doesn't get used enough. I'm just not sure what could be going on...am I missing something?
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I just got a 2004 F-150 XLT. 200k miles AT. The problem is that it won't start. The previous owner was driving it when it suddenly died and wouldn't crank over. He was told by an auto shop it neded a new engine.
I don't think it needs a new engine because it stopped while driving. I may be wrong. I put a new battery in it. When I turn the key to start it, it just makes one loud click and doesn't do anything else. The oil and coolant look fine. What may be wrong with it or how to see if the engine is bad?
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