Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Engine Revving When Brakes Are Pushed
Dec 15, 2011
This truck has been giving us problems off and on for a while now. Whenever I am sitting at a stop light for example and the truck is in drive but I have my foot on the brakes it acts like it's trying to lunge forward and the engine is revving and shaking the whole truck. My husband just drove it this morning and now whenever it gets really wet outside the truck doesn't want to go anywhere. He said he was flooring it and he was only going about 20mph and the engine looked to be shaking bad. I have no clue what could be going on?
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Why won't my hatch light turn off unless, I depress the brake pedal? I even disconnected the wire going to the latch and the light still won't go out?
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I know nothing about vehicles as far as exhaust and tire size. But what i want to ask is what is causing my 2007 ford f150 4.6l to rev up while in drive while im just costing. see i was at about 20-30 miles per hour and almost to 2 rpms and repeatedly my truck would rev in the range of 20 to 30 miles per hour for about 1 seconds but would go back to normal after that rev. I rely on my truck for work and also while I was in Park at a target parking lot my truck began to rev up Wow and park I don't know what is causing this....
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I have a 2005 F150 5.4 FX4 and I had these two codes thrown over the past week/few days...P0325 and P1000 (pictures below of descriptions...I have an edge programmer and have been running it on the highest setting for a while now but always run premium fuel. I got these codes and reset them and they came right back. I then reset the cpu to the factory programming and they still keep coming back. I still have premium in it and it seems like when you hammer it that it falls flat on its face! It runs good and pretty smooth but seems like it has no power when throttle is pushed hard. It seems like it has a small vibration at about 3,000 RPM but only for a few seconds and then smooths right back out again. The truck has 88,000 miles and I just put new Motorcraft plugs in it about 6,000 miles ago. Not sure what I should do or what is the next step.
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I just bought my car 2 months ago from a dealer, the dealer said they fixed a router and bled the breaks. A week after I got it, I pushed the brakes and they had no resistance on them. I did it again and they were fine, so I just thought I was nuts. Later that week it happened several more times. I had my boyfriend bring it back to the dealer and they drove it and convinced him that Ford just has speed sensing brakes and that it was normal.
It went away for a month so I really didn't say too much more about it. Now every time I hit the breaks there is no resistance until I get it all the way to the floor. It will still stop, but only if it's pushed firmly to the floor, and hitting the brakes all the way to the floor is not a very smart thing to do in the winter, so I have slid many of times because of this. Am I just supposed to live with the supposed "speed sensors" or is there something really wrong?
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My wife and i have noticed over the last few months that our 08 has been revving higher, (much higher), than it used to when driving uphill. It has 65 k miles.
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So I'm really good with pointing out cars and what engine they may have but im a derp when it comes to going under the hood. Right now I have a 2009 v6 mustang it probably doesn't matter for my question. This has been going on for awhile and I dealt with it cause I couldn't really hear with my music on. Whenever I push on the brakes to stop it makes a pretty noisy and annoying clicking noise until I stop. Not like that weird siren noise you can here from breaks but a click click click sound. What this might be? Brake calipers need a change or what? Last time I checked, probably last year, the brake calipers were still good.
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My Prius engine wouldn't shut off when the button was pushed. The Toyota dealer was clueless.
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I am having a major issue with my truck. I replaced all of my brakes about 8 months ago. Replaced everything. Rotors, calipers, pads etc. About 3 weeks ago I pushed on the brakes and they locked up and I heard a loud pop and then grinding. I pulled my wheel and my brake on the right rear had broke the 2 mounting bolts and fell off. So I put the brake back on thinking I hadn't tightened the bolts.
Drove about 7 miles and around the 10th time I stepped on my brakes it did the same thing. So I replaced the brakes again. Calipers caliper mount and pads. I have been driving it 2 weeks and all of a sudden same thing happened. I push on the brakes the right rear locked up and snapped the bolts again. So now I replaced everything rotor calipers etc. Greased everything up and no problems for a day. Do I need to replace the brake mount and where do I get that?
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Recently, I changed the brakes on my 2006 Lexus GS300. Everything went real smooth with changing the front and back brakes.
When I took it for a test drive, I immediately noticed a SINGLE knock noise when I pushed on the brakes. Also, I noticed that sometimes when I got +50 mph, I'll hear the knocking noise in a repetitive fashion. If I gently apply pressure on the brakes, the knock noise stops. If I let go of the brake, the knock noise returns. It sounds like the knock noise is coming from the front-driver side area.
What the culprit could be? I've taken the wheel off a few times, took the brake pads off, put them back on, made sure the caliper screws were tight, etc.
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I am afraid to drive my car on the highway and if I am damaging my car by driving it I want to make sure I hold the auto care shop that put the wrong size tire on my car responsible.
I have Bridgestone Ecopia EP100 BL tires size 185/65R15 on my 2007 Prius that I got in 2010. Because of a nail in one tire I had to replace one of the tires two days ago. The technician said they did not have the exact same tire any more but he would replace it with something comparable.
The next day I drove 2 hours on the interstate and the slip indicator light kept flashing, it felt like the engine was revving a lot and/or the transmission wouldn't shift when I got to highway speeds, and it was a little scary. My first thought was something with the new tire since I had absolutely no problems before.
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Our 2005 Prius with 160,000 miles is displaying warning lights and the gasoline engine is reving at times and not shutting off when the car is at a stop light.
The dealer says it is throwing a P3000 and P0A80 codes. I asked for subcodes, the dealer doesn't know what I am talking about.
The dealer wants to replace the hybrid computer for $900 and if that doesn't fix it they want to replace the hybrid battery for $3500.
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In 2007 purchased above referenced vehicle. First week it began to jerk a little when changing gears or just driving it. Last week it began to jerk violently when putting it into gear; then it finally died as i pushed on the brake. It was towed to AAMCO for diagnostics and they finally said the problem was out of their league, or it would cost 800-1000 for complete car diagnostics. Referred me to master mechanic. But I'm taking it back to the dealer. QUESTION: because there seems to be a history of electrical related issues with the model, and recalls found back in 2004, would this car be classified as a "lemon" or is it possible for the electrical issue to be fixed, or should I "junk" the vehicle?
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my front brakes have been locking up here recently. I think it my be due to a blockage in the resovior. I had taken it apart upon the first spell of it locking up, had my buddy press the brake pedal a few times with the lines from the res disconnected and it seemed to be be a little clogged at first and then freed up once it was stepped on hard a few times. So i reassembled the system and bled the brakes out and it seemed to be fine for about 70 miles or so. Then out of no where it started locking up once again.
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2004 F150 XLT, 5.4, 69,000miles.
I took my truck into Brake Check because my brakes were squeaking and the rotor needed to be worked on, when I slowed down the truck would slow down smoothly....it felt like I was pressing hard then releasing etc. I knew it needed new pads etc.
Well, they replaced the Pads, and did Rotor Reface on all 4. They recommended getting the Calipers Maintenance (front 2 wheels). They wanted $800 for new rotors too (in addition). I told them no.
Fast forward around 6 months. Truck was braking great, no squeaks etc for about 4 months. Then I begin noticing huge amounts of brake dust on my wheels. Might be normal not sure.
2 months later, but truck now squeaks again while braking. And when I'm going slow, I like in a parking garage I can hear this clicking noise while I'm on the brake. CLICK.....CLICK.....CLICK....CLICK.
If you coudn't tell, I don't know much about my truck. I'm trying to learn.
Well, whenever I slow down from ~50mph, my truck vibrates like nothing I've ever seen before. My windshield wipers are bouncing around it's so bad.
I took it to a Ford Dealership to get the works done, where they rotate the tires and change the oil etc, and inspect the brakes. The guy said the rotors need to be machined.
That's not normal right? I don't drive a lot. I don't ride the brakes, I haven't had to brake hard. 6 months from the work I've had done from Brake Check, and the rotors are bad again?
I'm just going to pay Ford to fix this issue and not go back to brake check because that means I'd have to drive 3hrs. I'm curious though, shouldn't their work on the rotor still be good.....not causing them to be worked on again?! I like my truck a lot, the brakes are just pissing me off. My last truck, a 2002 ford...I had till last winter till someone rear ended my truck totaling it, I never had to do any brake work on that thing.
I got suckered into buying the extended warranty for my truck, and it says it covers the calipers.
I'm taking it into a different ford dealership that is in my town next week, and was curious if any of you had some insight on my brake situation.
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After replacing the Front Rotors, calipers, and brake lines on my 2005 F150 Super Crew I have spongy brakes. I have also replaced the master cylinder. I have bled the brakes as well as a reputable repair shop has done the same. We are both at a loss as to what is wrong. The ABS light is on now after the replacement of these parts. This issue did not exist prior to changing these items. This was done to hopefully eliminate brake shudder that I have been experiencing for some time.
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My daughter says that her 2003 F-250 V-10 has stalled twice now while she was driving. Specifically she was waiting to turn left, pushed down on the gas and the engine quit. All warning lights came on as if she had turned the ignition from run to the first on position. She was immediately able to turn the key off, put the gear selector back Park and restart the engine and then drive off. What's going on? Haven't been to the mechanic yet, but don't want to write him a blank check either.
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After a routine brake pad replacement the brake pedal hits the floor when applied with normal force. The pedal feels like a badly leaking master cylinder, but prior to the pad replacement the brake pedal was firm as a rock with no drop at all. If I pump the brakes the pedal will come up to normal height, but if I then maintain light pressure the pedal will again sink to the floor.
1. Truck was braking fine, however pad 3/4 worn
2. Replaced front calipers, rotors and pads
3. Replaced front brake feed hoses
4. Replaced rear pads
5. Started engine
6. Started bleeding from furthest point from MC a) passenger rear, b) Driver Rear, c) passenger front, d)driver front. Did it two times...
Still, brake travels all the way to the fire wall and never develops tension. Moreover, sometimes, when person pumping brake puts pressure and i open bleed, no fluid comes out. Could it be a failed master cylinder??? I tend to think it's not because 24hrs ago, the pedal felt fine and the truck was braking ok.... So much for preventive maintenance.
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Wife just called on her way home from work and said the brakes grind when she pushes the pedal down. 08 with 39000. What am I in for and what kind of tools do I need? I'll pull off the wheels in the morning and take a look. Everybody seems to say the newer trucks go bad in the rear first,and she never uses the e- brake.
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Brakes shimmy on my 05 f150. Been doing this since new new pads and rotors and alignment. what now?
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I got a 2007 f150 5.4 triton motor 94000 miles all stock just gots mod k&n filter top end rebuilt due to cam phasers and timing guides for the past year when i make a real sudden stop or sometimes quick turn the truck will bog a bit the i give it gas and will drop to 100 rpms and if i keep my foot on the gas the truck will die if i keep my foot off the gas it will keep rolling then die after attempting to accelerate fuel pump driver module is in good shape with spacers the old code i get when this happens is p0191 for fuel rail pressure sensor although i just replaced that what could it be?
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