Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Engine Missing While Driving - Code P0202 - Injector Circuit Malfunction Cylinder 2
Jun 3, 2015
Yesterday driving to work felt the engine missing, on the way home got a CEL pulled the code when I got home it was P0302, so I started with the easy and put a new coil pack, same issue, so I prayed and pulled the plug (it didn't break). Put a new plug and a second new coil pack (just to be sure, and yes I keep extras dang 5.4). cleared codes and started it this time got P0202 Ford - Injector Circuit Malfunction Cylinder 2, so I checked Ohms on #2 and it was 12.6, #1, 3, 5,6 all have 13 Ohms, didn't check #4, 7, or 8 because my big hands and the probes on my multi meter. Checked the wires on all of them and have 12 volts with key on, not running. I read another check to put blk in pin and red on pos batt terminal, and that it was supposed to go 12 to 0 off and on with engine running, All of mine went up to 14 volts and stayed no switching. Is there something I am missing to check before replacing the injector on #2?
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I have for a week suspected my batteries were getting weak. just slower cranking is all. I took my truck in to have a viper security system installed and while he was doing his work he killed the batteries. I saw him hook up a battery charger and started the truck. He pulled it around to me and explained how the system worked and off i went. 5 miles down the road, on the thruway, I notice a miss and I'm down on power. FICM looked ok, 48V and it was charging, 13.8 I thought I would bring it to my shop and load test the batteries. On my way here, the check engine light comes on. At the shop, load tested them and they were weak. Installed 2 brand new batteries, started it up, no difference. Hooked up the scanner and pulled a code P2077 (cylinder 6 injector circuit high) Now what? I'm not sure where to go from here. I'm guessing either the FICM went bad or the #6 injector?
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The engine sometimes has misfiring, and the VCDS reports "Injector Circuit Malfunction Cylinder 7, sporadically". I changed the spark plug, the injector and the ignition coil. So the problem remained and after about 600-800kms the fault came back. Now I moved a little bit the cables of the injector plug and I noticed that the problem is solved, until a few hundred kms were driven. The cyl. 7 is near front side and I could move the cables to the injector plug under the intake manifold.
Now I know, that the problem is the plug of injector (see pics)....
My question.... I bought the plug but it is not the complete like on the pics, it's only the middle part where the cables go in. It has not this sponge-like thing which is in the whole in which goes in the cable. The grey thing which locks the plug is also not in the new plug. Maybe if I have to exchange this small parts on the new plug? I can't imagine how to change the plug, do I have to cut the cables and put them in the new plug. What kind of attachement do the cables have in this plastic plug?
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Have a 2004 F350 which had problems starting cold and once started had bad throttle response until warm. It also had a shudder at cruising speed when going up a slight incline, would shudder until turbo kicked in.
Pulled codes which related to FICM and codes for all 8 injectors. 7 injector codes were circuit low, cylinder 1 high. Tested FICM voltage and sent FICM out for repair.
Installed rebuilt FICM, cleared codes, and hard start went away, but cruising shudder is still present.
Only existing code is P0262 for cylinder 1 injector circuit high. I'm assuming that cylinder 1 injector is bad -- are there any tests to confirm before I take it apart to replace it?
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Engine light came on yesterday and started missing on take offs. Giving code p2285 Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit Low. I've done the research and understand the problem. It's the weekend and shops closed until Monday. Is it safe to drive in the mean time? Is there any risk of doing damage? What's the risk of it quitting or failing start in the short term, today?
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This is my first Ford. 2008 6.4L 165K miles full delete. Bought this truck at auction already deleted. Found an H&S pod mount instructions in glove box and so I am thinking it had their software loaded to it. I knew it had sat a while, but did fire up no problems. I have already replaced all fuel filters (actually learned I did them backwards, and did not cycle the key) and had no issues re-starting! I've put at minimum 30 minutes but no more than 1 hour run time on this thing post filter change. I'll get to the gritty. . This all started when I pulled a P0201 code for Injector Cylinder 1.
I pulled the valve cover to troubleshoot the injector, following a post I saw few days back. All checked out fine with the #1 compared with #3, and so I cracked loose the fuel line going to the #1 injector. The line was dry and thought it was strange, but I had changed out the FRP sensor prior and remember no fuel came out then either. Before pulling into the garage the truck was running rough but thought this was due to a P0193 code FRP pressure Circuit High (again). So I put the line back on, tightened the darn out of it.
I know these things see a 26K psi at times. I depressed the Schrader valve at the fuel cooler and got only a minute bit of air out. I didn't think this was enough, and so I took the Schrader valve out, hard lesson learned. I re-installed it and I fashioned a homemade tool connected the Schrader valve with a ball valve to cycle the key-on and purge out the air. I have ran the batteries down cranking trying to get it to fire. I am now getting no more air bubbles.
Had to get another diesel pickup to keep juice on the batteries. After 3 hours, 6 hours total, cannot get this thing to fire off! Am I missing something simple? Everything I have done to this point before reading the forum I have done backwards and all has been fine! Could it be that just now I am seeing the effect of the filter change being done backwards? On my scanner I can see the live FRP, it has to be the cmd, it is sitting at 29Kpsi. At this point should I re-pull the filters and start fresh?
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I do not know the 5.4l 3v as well as my last 360ci dodge. It's a 2005 F-150 SuperCrew 4x4, got it cheap, and it's got issues. Got codes for misfire on cylinders 4 and 5 and Coil 'D' circuit malfunction. Obviously it has codes for limited power as well. was wondering how cylinder numbering goes and what coil is 'D'.
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I was plowing and when I put it in reverse it felt like it slipped, but then the dash message trans malfunction came up. I checked the codes and I got P0722 output shaft speed sensor.
Code P0720 (oss) sensor circuit fault
Then the truck went into safe mods. Is it just the sensor or is my reverse going out...
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe, V4, 2.4L.
So the other day, my CEL and I got it scanned: p0320, or "Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction."
It was accompanied with two symptoms:
1. The car will sometimes sputter on startup, and the tachometer will be zeroed out. I have to turn the car off and turn it back on, and it will start normally, albeit with a bit of a misfire on idle.
2. The car will sometimes die while at a stop. Just like the first symptom, if I turn the car off and turn it back on, it will work normally.
I looked on here, and it seemed like everyone solved a p0320 by replacing the Ignition Failure Sensor. So that's exactly what I did. But nothing changed; I still have the symptoms, and the CEL came back on and is still reading p0320.
What should be my next step? Could it be faulty wires that give power to the Ignition Failure Sensor?
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I have a 2013 F150 6.2L and it wont start. It was running great and when I drove it around the corner it just shut down no clunk no warning just bam shut off. I had a engine code P0355 ( which indicated cylinder 5 coil malfunction). changed the coil and it will not fire the engine code has gone away but it will still not fire. I changed the oil just to be safe and no metal shavings in it.... Turns over just fine but will not fire. I added more fuel just to be safe ( thinking maybe I had bad fuel but that didn't work either.
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I have a 2006 f-350 6.0 and i went to fill up my truck with diesel. After that the truck did not start. Currently has the code p2285 - injector control pressure sensor circuit low. I tried disconnecting sensor, still no start.
I have the torque pro app and another 6.0 that I use for comparison. Check power at ficm 48 volt, flp 11.5v, FVP 11.5v. Hpop while cranking shows 1400 psi. removed oil filter and see low pressure oil ok, fills up reservoir. ipr at crank about 65%. fuel filter full of fuel.
Replaced the dummy plug on passenger side because originally hpop was very low psi 12. after replacement it went up to 1400 on cranking. What should I be looking at next, should I be removing ipr? should i be looking at crank sensor or cam sensor? Just installed 2 new batteries also because my dad kept cranking the truck until it died.
Checked to make sure fuel cut off relay not triggered, Ok. The truck has been having long cranks before it died. Also right now the injector cycling is 10 seconds long while on my other 6.0 it is about 4.
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After about 6 months I finally got the alternator replaced in the Tribute. I totally forgot about the CEL that was on for EGR Circuit. I've found a couple of pages ( OBD-II Trouble Code: P0403 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction ) that explain how to diagnose the issue but I was wondering if any other route for something that may be more common than another thing.
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ok i was just driving my 2004 ford f150 truck and it stopped running. I turned the key and it started back up again and then while on idle it stopped again. I took it too auto zone and it showed a code of p1237 which as far as i can see says fuel pump secondary circuit failure. does that mean i need a new fuel pump and how hard is it to replace.
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I have a 2007 f150 sport. I am getting a 24 code on the airbag light and I do know that is Sensor output feed/return circuit open. What I do not know is where is this sensor located and what could it mean if I am getting the code...
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I have a 1999 Ford Explorer with the V-6 SOHC that is stuttering and stalling when I try to accelerate. A very slight acceleration will get the vehicle moving, but anything coming close to normal gas pedal pressure causes immediate stuttering and/or stalling. Check Engine light came on when problem started yesterday.
Where is the EVAP System Canister Vent Solenoid? I bought a code reader after beating my head against the truck all afternoon and got code "P1451 EVAP System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction". My Haynes book says on the left side frame rail... can't find anything along there that looks like it (based on picture from Rock Auto for replacement part) and found some people online talking about it being in the engine compartment on the passenger side...
Just crawled all over the truck and I think I found the charcoal canister, but couldn't trace it back to the vent solenoid... There was something right next to the canister, but again, it looked nothing like the replacement part listed on Rock Auto...
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My transmission failed on me again last night, truck won't move (I still seem to have reverse). Was cruising down the road at 85km/h and Trans Failure came up with a P0720 (OSS sensor Cct.) and P0722 (output shaft speed sensor no signal) codes. The first time I only got a P0721 code.
This is the second time in 6 months. Last time I spend 3200 to get it rebuilt locally. i don't do any towing, I don't spin my tires etc. and I haven't taken it off pavement since it was rebuilt so I'm not sure why this is happening. I baby my truck.
I have the 4R70E in the truck now, will the 4R100 fit? It's suppose to be a heavier duty tranny correct? Where I can get one and if not where I could send mine to have it reinforced?
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My 2006 F150 with 77k seized up on friday. Sounds like a bad injector flooded the engine, caused hydrolock, and then bent a rod. I called the dealership today and they said the only fix is a new engine. I have 3 payments still left and now the dealership is telling me I gotta buy a new engine.
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My 98 blazer (130k)recently started showing code p0740 tcc circuit malfunction..
The truck runs fine (except for the water pump I just blew) this is a tranny solenoid code. but my tranny seems to be shifting ok..
Is the solenoid easy and cheap enough to replace myself? I am trying to make up my mind if its time to start thinking of trading this blazer in on something with less miles or to fix it up and keep on trucking..
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I'm not too knowledgeable about wiring and electrical systems. I'm getting a P1451 code (EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction) on my 99 4.2. I've read that it could be a bad solenoid, bad wiring, or a blown fuse. So far I've;
- checked (and changed) the related fuse
- checked the wiring for damage at the connector
- checked voltage at the connector (12 volts)
- checked the resistance at the solenoid (around 60 ohms)
- actuated the solenoid with a 9V battery (can hear it opening and closing)
I haven't had a chance to check the wiring all the way back up the frame to yet, but I noticed that the ground at the trailer wiring harness has broken off the frame. Would this potentially cause a fault in the upstream wiring? I'm going to slap a new connector on and bolt it back down anyway, but as it's Labour (Labor) Day I'll have to wait for the stores to be open tomorrow.
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I have 94 SE camry with the 3.0L V6 1MZ-FE engine and has individual coil packs. I'm getting a P1300 Igniter Circuit Malfunction. I have checked it out per the procedures EG2.pdf. I'm down to step 8 and the voltages are little different between the 6 points. started checking out the ground at the ECM per IN36 instructions. it appears that from pin #27 & 28 are not grounded to the ECU case.
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SC430 came up with the check engine light, showing a "Oxygen Heater Circuit Malfunction", code P0155 (bank 2, sensor 1). Searching, I found out this is the oxygen sensor in the passenger side exhaust manifold.
My car is high mileage (over 130K), it's hard to justify purchasing a $230 sensor and paying for installation. My only goal is to keep the check engine light from turning on and passing state inspection/emission (the check engine light will prevent passing inspection/emission in my state).
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