I have an 06 F150 with 31K miles, with the 5.4 V8, and recently experienced an engine misfire condition, caused by two stuck open fuel injectors. The dealer fixed everything back, but, said its not covered like the 05's, so I had to pay.
Why the 06 5.4 with the same problem as the 05's, is not covered? Seems to me like Ford still has a problem with stuck fuel injectors on the 06.
'90 maxima 245,000 miles.....over the course of a few days all three rear injectors (1,3,5) are stuck open and dumping fuel....lots of white smoke and fuel smell. Mechanic told me to replace the fuel injectors, that they are bad. I do not believe this since i recently replaced the injectors. I confirmed the Ohm on the injectors(10-14) and it is getting a spark....i heard that it could be the wiring harness is grounding out? how do i test this? could my ECU be bad?
View 6 RepliesWell I believe I finally had the opportunity to experience the wide open injector issue. I was driving to work and all of a sudden at a stop light my truck started shaking bad. It went away but as I took off every so often it would shake. I thought it was a tire or front end component so I pulled over and just got overwhelmed with the smell of gas. I drove 30 miles back home and check engine light blinked the whole way and truck ran . Also wasted at least a 1/4 tank of gas and the a/c wouldn't blow cold air either. Hooked it up to read DTC codes and got P0172, P0300, P0303, P0304, P0316 and P2196.
View 14 Replies2004 f150 5.4
When I start the truck it runs fine for roughly ten seconds then it shuts off power to two of my injectors. Or so I thought. With a noid light on, I was getting shutdown on cylinders 1 and 6 as per the codes ten seconds after starting. I assumed this was as intended to stop raw fuel from entering the cats.
So far this is my findings. Noid light-shuts off the two cylinders after ten seconds. But will pulse again later before shutting them down again. Truck idles better, but never seems quite perfect. Could just be how 5.4's are though.
Swapping injectors did not change codes.
Coil packs are working on those cylinders. Spark test checked out and plugs are firing. They were replaced at some point with oem motorcraft plugs.
ohm test showed wiring to those cylinders was fine. Wiggle test showed the same.
The truck revs and sounds great before it shuts off power to the cylinders. I cannot assume a mechanical failure at this point. I have not ran a compression test on it yet as, in their great wisdom, Ford determined they had to be different than the rest of the planet with spark plug sizing. Adapter will be here tomorrow for me to verify that part.
I have checked around quite a bit so maybe this has been somewhere else on the site and I missed it. I have exhausted everything minus a compression test. I can only point a finger at the computer currently. But I am not quite sure how to verify that is the issue. And quite frankly, I have never seen a computer go bad without outside interference.
On a sidnote, the truck starts very hard at times. Like a car that has heavily advanced timing. It could actually just be a starter issue though. I figured I would get to that after I find out what the other issue is.
I've replaced all 8 of my truck's injectors in the hope of curing a rough idle and high long term fuel trims. How long should it take for the ECU to adjust all the fuel trims to account for the new injectors? Or is it best to disconnect the battery for 30min or so in order to reset the ECU and allow it to learn trims from scratch?
View 1 RepliesMy new to me 04 4.6 shuddered and misfired really bad last week, got couple misfire codes. I changed plugs which were really bad, like burnt out to .080, got a HEI ignition tester and got a healthy spark from all the coil packs. Drove it today and ran much better but still would shudder under acceleration when cold, wasn't as bad when warmed up but still noticeable. I thought if I got a spark with the tester that means the coil is ok? or is that not the last word in coil health. Or should I look somewhere else like injectors ? Haven't got any codes since plug change.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 f150 with 96,000 miles. Long story short, last August I was headed to the mountains going up a steep long hill and the engine light come on. once i was over the pass the light went off. During my 4 wheelin' trip it never came back on until I was headed home and going over another pass and then it stayed on for a couple of days. I had it checked and it was a cylinder 5 misfire. I did some research and found that replacing the coil cover might fix the problem and if not the spark plugs would need to be changed.
I changed the coil cover, problems solved... until I headed to the mountains. light came on and then eventually went off later that day. I didnt think much of it. then a few months later i was headed to the mountains again and the light came on in the same place on the steep incline hill. I. took it back to the shop, same reading. I decided it was time to replace the spark plugs anyways so I would invest. I have new plugs and everything is good however, I had no plans to go to the mountains in the near future. Now, a few months later I headed to the mountains and crossed my fingers it would not come on but it did.
I've done the research again and it seemed like the coil cover and spark plugs are usually the cause of the problem...however I have changed mine. The light is now off again. I don't understand what is triggering the problem and what is really happening and if it is safe to keep taking to the mountains with this happening. I did notice that everything was fine at 60MPH but once i hit the hill and steeped on the gas to go 65 and hit 4-5RMP that is when the check engine light came on...
Im trying to chase down an engine miss fire on a 2007 with the 5.4L. It only seems to miss under no-load conditions, such as at idle and on a downgrade while driving. Acceleration and under a load it runs fine. New Champion plugs were installed at 135,000 miles. The truck now has 150,000 miles and has only been miss firing for the last 1,000 miles or so. I pulled the connector off of the coils one at a time to try and figure out which cylinder/s were missing. I thought I found the problem ones and replaced two of the coils, but it ended up not fixing the issue. Ive tried spraying carb cleaner at and around the intake to check for leaks, but found none. I have a scanner, but the check engine light is not on, so its not much luck.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2008 FX2 5.4L F150. Recently it began to lose power on a friend driving it out of town. He got a check engine light then it just progressively became unable to produce power. It ran but he got down to 10 mph before he could get to a firestone. I got it to a local Ford dealer and they say i need a new engine. They gave me codes for cam sensor and timing and #5 and #6 misfire. (344, 345)
No oil in radiator, no water in oil. The crazy thing is it runs like the day i bought it in Park. But once in gear it begins to cough and then eventually shudders and dies. I haven't changed plugs ever. I know... At about 75 miles it began to idle rough at times and in reverse. But once I revved up it went away.
I replaced both cam sensors but no luck. Today i put it on a tow truck to get a second opinion from a local engine shop. I actually backed it down my driveway, and pulled up to the tow truck with no issues. weird...
I have a 2006 F150 4x4 5.4. For a long time it idled poorly and would take 2 trys to start. Today it started shuddering and the engine light came on. The engine light went off but it still runs rough and smells of gas from the exhaust. It is not very drivable and I can't afford to take it in. I have lots of mechanical experience but not with this electronic junk and need diagnosing the problem. I have a code tester and this is what it said.
P0301 Cyl 1 Miss
P0304 Cyl 4 Miss
P0300 Random Multiple Misfire Detected
P2196 O2 Sensor Signal
Biased/ Stuck Rich
Bank 1 Sensor 1
For the past few months when I first start up my '08 it sounds like Curly (Three Stooges) is yuck-yucking under the hood. This occurs right before the engine kicks in and he yucks about 6-8 times. (A few times he yucked after I turned the car off too) This morning when I hit the power button the big red triangle came on and the car didn't start until the third attempt. Ran fine all day. From looking at this site I'm guessing that the triangle means I should check the 12v battery. But what about the yucking??? (Where's Moe) Is it related to the triangle? I am also reading about various recalls and am wondering if there is a website that lists them. How do I tell when my car is manufactured? Several of the recalls mentioned on this forum say the recalls cover only certain months of a specific manufacture year.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2008 RX350 with 68k on the clock. Received a check engine light for random misfire (P0300) and misfire on Cylinder 4 (P0304), Cylinder ,5 (P0305) ,Cylinder 6 (P0306). Question is what will be causing this to happen. I thought about changing the spark plugs to see if this is possibly the cause. but what else should i be checking?
View 1 RepliesOur 2008 Equinox with roughly 90K miles showed the "service stabilitrack" warning on a Friday, next day light was still there now paired up with "check engine" light. My husband did something to the "stabilitrack" button which made both lights go away for a couple of days. Then both of these returned. Took the vehicle to the dealer (we always do for service, we just don't know some good mechanics in our area and so far we had not had any major issues with the vehicle).
They tell my husband it is the EGR valve that supposedly needs replacement and that the reason it got to be bad is because we failed to maintain / clean the fuel injectors so those need to be washed / cleaned / serviced too so that the whole issue is resolved. No mention about the "stabilitrack" thing at all. Due to our needs of the vehicle and our lack of cars knowledge we agreed to it without looking into it further.. Lights have been off since that and we didn't think much of it.
But then this weekend we got this "recall" letter in the mail for that very same vehicle... talking about the "check engine light" being the issue and an apparent leak of gasoline (via odor or visual leak)... Maybe these are totally unrelated ...
I checked the manual for the recommended maintenance and nowhere there is mention of regular maintenance needed for the fuel injectors.. I looked online and while there seems to be varied opinions most of them agree that is something not needed; neither it is the EGR valve replacement... so now I am really wondering! Was it all for nothing? And how is one supposed to know this. Is the "check engine" light enough of an issue to maybe think this was the right thing to do?
I have a 2008 Santa Fe Limited and am having a major problem. On 3 different occasions, the accelerator pedal has stuck open at full throttle. At first I dismissed the problem as a fluke or the floormat and pedal getting stuck together.
This week while on vacation with my family in Myrtle Beach, SC, I was pulling onto a 4 lane and had to "punch it" from a dead stop to get up to speed with the other vehicles. When I got up to the desired speed I let off of the accelerator pedal and to my dismay the vehicle kept going. I told my family to hold on and immediately hit the brake and safely pulled into the median while the vehicle was still surging. With my foot on the brake my wife put it in neutral and the engine sounded like it was going to blow up. I checked to see if the floormat and accelerator pedal was stuck together somehow and they were not touching. I do not know if it was me freeing up the pedal with my foot or if the vehicle some how on it's own finally reved back down to normal RPM's.
In essence my family and I were in a runaway vehicle and luckily the braking system was strong enough to safely stop us while at full throttle.
This was a scary experience for my wife and I and a horrifying experience for my children. It was the exact situation Toyota had a couple of years ago with the accelerator sticking on their Prius models.
Is the accelerator system a mechanical one with a throttle cable going to the throttle body or is everything computerized. I do not know if it is a mechanical or computer problem.
I have a P2440 code from warning light- Secondary AIR System Switching Valve A' Stuck Open. This started to appear when I took it into the dealer for other issue with transfer case whining when in 4x4. Can this code be associated with something the mechanic did , would they remove any sensors or wires, that may not have put back. Not happy. Are these trucks know for this code? Estimate cost?
View 4 RepliesCheck engine light computer scan indicates intake manifold runner control valve stuck open. Will it damage the car to drive it in this condition and what does fixing it entail?
View 4 RepliesOK, car has 94K miles, never had anything done to it, and the timing belt stripped out a bunch of teeth and bent the valves, you know the usual deal.
Pulled the engine apart, and order a head gasket set and scored a low miles head from a salvage yard. I was told the engine it came from was running fine but had a damaged timing cover so they parted out the engine, when i got the head the timing belt gear was bent and cracked, but i couldn't see any other damage and all looked good so i put it all in, and after having some trouble getting good info on where the timing marks are suppose to go i got it all back together and went to fire it up, start and die a couple times, i figured it was the fuel system re-priming itself, car starts and is running rough, i give it a few small revs and above about 2K it seems to run fine, but has def misfires at idle.
While i was looking around the engine bay checking over stuff i can hear a definite buzzing sound coming from the injectors, which i can tell you isn't normal, and is causing my problem i believe. The injector plugs are pretty straight forward, so im pretty sure i have them in the right spots.
The CEL came on, and i plugged in my code reader but was unable to connect to the ECM for some reason. Are these cars can bus?
While I have systematically tried to fix this problem over the last 6 months, I have not been able to get fuel to flow from the fuel rail into the injectors on this 4.6 L Northstar engine. I have 40 PSI of fuel at the fuel rail, and the engine will crank but not start. If I put starting fluid into a one of the cylinders, that cylinder immediately fires and then stalls. I have checked the wires going to the injectors and they seem fine, as well as replacing the ECM and fuel pump. The fuses for the injectors are good, so they should be getting electricity. 1994 Cadillac Concours...
View 19 Replies2004 F150 XLT 5.4l (3v)... Problem started with misfire on No.4 and then I went through the tedious job of changing every plug (all 8 broke) and coils in an attempt to resolve the problem. After the changes I had misfire on no.1 and no.2, so I changed the injector on no.2 and coil on no.1 again + had broken pigtail wires on No.4 and No.1. Now I remain with a P0301 misfire on No.1. The problem won't go away, its fine idling, but misses bad when driving. The Snapon scanner reads fine for all injectors and compression reads ok also. The mechanics are baffled and what else could it be? (rail? computer? intake gasket?)
View 4 RepliesMy main problem right now is that i am stuck in 4x4 low. Organically (should have left it at this) my truck would not do anything, no 4x4 high or low lights when i turned the switch.(lights worked when truck is first turned on) I researched it on the net and came across the idea to tap the Transfer Case Motor. I did this and my truck locked in 4x4 low and would not come out. I kept tapping on it while someone turned the dash switch and nothing, so i ordered a new(rebuilt) motor (160.00!!)
I got the new motor today and while installing it (I replaced the 2 speed wires) i turned the switch and it went in 4x4 high but i put it back in 4x4 low in order to bolt the motor to the transfer case. After I bolted it on, I tried to take it out of 4 low (in neutral and foot on brake) and it would not disengage. My front hubs will not lock, i am going to get on this after i get it out of 4x4 low(take it to a friends shop so i can lift front end up etc.) I have recently replaced the iwe solenoid on the passenger side firewall.
Bought my 2004 Lexi RX330 in June 2014 with 96k (now has 105k - I drive a lot). It is beautiful and I love it! However, I am NOT in love with the sunroof that is currently stuck open. It's been making a weird noise upon opening (think bag of chips crackly) for the past few weeks. Yesterday was gorgeous weather in TX, so it was open most of the day. Come time to put her to bed, the sunroof would not close. Making a horrible grindy/clicky noise and closes about 4 inches then stops... then it starts to open again. Weird! There's nothing I can see in the tracks that is stopping it. The passenger side looks like it would close, but the drivers side looks like it is stuck. Tried to take the sunroof motor out, but there is a metal bracket in the way. Besides the fact, what to do with the motor once I had it out...
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