Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Electronic Flasher Or Resistor For LEDs
Dec 18, 2014
So I installed two LED front turn signal bulbs and was going to add resistors until I just learned I could add an electronic flasher and get the same result. Now I already have a heavy duty flasher installed to make my lights flash correctly when towing my trailer. If I change that to a electronic flasher will my trailer lights still flash correctly or should I just leave the flasher alone and add resistors behind the front bulbs?
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I have noticed a lot of things on the web on modules that promise increased MPG and power by adding a resistor on the IAT sensor. As much as I like the idea of increased MPG and power for cheap, if it doesn't work, I don't want to waste my time. So, what is the consensus on this type of modification? Will this mod be effective or only be a waste of time?
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I'd like to put in a louder turn signal flasher on my 2007 F150 - where is it located and where I can get a louder one ?
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Looking for info on disassembling a sideview mirror with LEDs for the purpose of fixing the LEDs? Only a couple of the lights stop working and it only happens some time, so I know the LEDs are good... I just want to fix the solder joints.
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I took it to a mechanic, he just told me to sprayed some carb cleaner on the throttle body and butterfly valve, and to wipe it with a rag. He did not hook a computer to it, to diagnose. and he said if the light comes on again to buy a new throttle body... I am thinking of getting throttle body sprayer taking off the throttle body replace the gasket, and hope this fixes my problem. I forgot to change my air filter btw.
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While driving home my yellow wrench light came on and I had no power at the pedal, even though the engine was idling smoothly. This happened with no warning and went away when I turned the truck off and restarted it. About 4 miles later it did it again. I immediately went to a nearby dealership only to find out my electronic throttle body needs replaced. Needless to say at this time of year 500+ dollars is not readily available, although I need my vehicle for work.
I do not know a thing about ETB's but did a little research online and found many aftermarket ones at a much better price than Ford's(surprise). My question I guess is what are my alternatives to factory replacement? Can I remove and clean this component or replace it with something of better quality? I'm not into high performance with my truck but if I could get a little better throttle response or gas mileage I'm all ears. My truck is a 2004 Supercrew 4x4 XLT w/ 5.4 Triton. Around 74,000 miles and well taken care of. Miles are nearly all highway.
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No tail, turn, backup, flasher, license plate - NOTHING. i checked fuses - cleaned both connectors under the truck by drivers door, cleaned connectors by the spare tire (2) one large one and one small round, the cleaned ground lug on top of spare tire bracket, all bulbs are new. cleaned with LPS contact cleaner, they were new and shiny and reinstalled. NOW - turn is very weak and when i push on brake they go off and the front blinkers blink twice as fast? I a aircraft technician and know my way with an ohm meter but totally stumped.
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2005 Ford F-150 FX4 5.4 V8
So my battery died the other day when I was working on the radio and I ended up having to jump start the vehicle. After the jump start the Wrench light came on the truck or the ETC light. (After doing research I have discovered you are not supposed to jump start a vehicle with ETC)
I have taken the car to the auto parts store and it does not seem the code readers they have can read codes for the ETC light.
I have also disconnected the battery cable to try and reset the light, but it still always comes on about 10 seconds after starting the car.
I have had no issues with the vehicle despite the light. No rough idle, no starting issues, or acceleration issues at any speed. What I can do to resolve this light or what part I fried when I jump started the car?
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Throttle body failures on the 5.4L 3v are more common than you think, luckily it will pop a code for the throttle body more often than not diagnosing. Symptoms include start and dies, no start, a really rough idle, surging idle up and down more so in park, poor brake assist due to rpm fluctuation and wrench light on. If you find yourself in this situation I show you how to change the throttle body and reset the pcm to learn the new idle trims.
Ford F150 F250 5.4L 3v Electronic Throttle Body Replacement P2135 - YouTube ....
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My 2005 F150 has developed an intermittent high pitch electronic tone that seems to be coming from the dash. Sometimes it comes on for a few seconds. Sometimes for several minutes. It never varies in pitch. It will occur even if the radio and fans are turned off. It will also occur if the engine is off and the key is just in the accessory position.
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Where is the signal flasher relay located. I can hear it but can't track it down.
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A friend of mine has a 2004 F150. The tail lights and the 3rd brake light are working but the rear brake lights, flasher and turn signals have stopped working. What could be wrong? I googled the problem and did find one person with the same issue in a 2001 F150. There apparently was a recall (#05S28) of the SCDS (Speed Control Deactivation Switch) but that vehicle kept blowing fuse 13. My friend checked his fuses and they were all ok,
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2004 f250, brake lights except 3rd brake light do not work. flashers also do not work. turn signals work on both sides. when you turn on the flashers only the right indicator on the dash lights. checked all fuses for brake lights and am at a loss. On a float trip this weekend with my toy hauler and need brake lights to get home.
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I have a 2008 Chevy HHR. The last few days my electronic power steering has been on and off. I've changed the fuse, but that did not take care of the problem. When I start driving each time the EPS seems to start out fine. At some point , usually mid-turn, the power steering goes out. Anytime that I turn the steering wheel I hear a clicking or switching sound similar to what you might hear when you use a turn signal. After stopping and turning the car off for a period of time and then jumping back in the car to continue the day it all starts over.
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On Saturday August 9th 2014 we were sitting at a stoplight when the engine on our 2008 Nissan Frontier suddenly accelerated to red line. I held on the brakes and the tires began to smoke. It finally occurred to me to turn off the key. That stopped the engine. I restarted the engine and we took the truck to the nearest Nissan dealer and told them about the problem and left the truck with them. The service manager said that he had never heard of this problem on a Nissan. Today, Monday August 11th we contacted the dealer and we were told that they couldn't duplicate the problem and there was nothing they could do. The truck is on extended warranty and they still don't want to deal with the problem. It seems obvious to us that the accelerator system should be replaced.
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The brake actuator on our 2006 Prius (95K miles) was activating (pump turned on) every 20 seconds or so. I used AutoEnginuity (AE) software to monitor the pressure of PACC (accumulator pressure sensor) and the pressure dropped rapidly once the sensor voltage got up to around 3.1 volts; therefore, the pump would activate again and this cycle would keep repeating as long as the Prius was turned on. Therefore I decided to replace the brake accumulator and its associated resistor. I purchased a new brake actuator and its associated resistor from Toyota. The brake accumulator replacement went well but when I tried to locate the resistor to replace it, I was dismayed to see that the old resistor is very hard to access (even though I took most of the dash apart to find it).
In my 2006 Prius, the resistor is on the driver's side near the body and high up under the dash. I think I understand the reason for matching the resistor value with the resistance of the pump windings but I am going to use the old resistor and see how noisy the pump is. BTW I referenced Toyota website (TIS) for how to do the replacement procedure and now I am going to see how good AE software (latest version) is at bleeding the various components. This is FYI when replacing the brake actuator and wanting to know where this resistor is located and how difficult it is to access.
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We have a 2004 Lexus GX400. Both electronic side-view mirrors stick. In reverse, they stick and often the driver controls work intermittently.
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Yesterday there was a huge rain. Our 2009 Prius couldn't park under the carport (on slab) as we would have had to drive a ways through really soft water-logged ground in front of it. So the wife left it parked on our circle drive driveway, which stays harder than the ground elsewhere, as there is still some caliche left on it. So an inch or so of mud was on all the tires and even more mud on wheel wells. We are on a slope, so I am sure that water never got up to the underside of the car.
Today I go to drive it---fortunately it was not stuck---but have the sonalert tone going off, the red brake warning light on, the ABS light on, and the VSC light on! I was hoping it was just an accumulation of mud blocking a wheel sensor, so I took it to the car wash and washed the inside (primarily) and outside of the wheels off. Then realized that mud is non-ferrous,so it shouldn't block a wheel sensor signal anyway.
I do have an OBDII code reader.....might it be able to read brake system trouble codes on Prius? This surely is induced by mud or moisture.....what would it likely be? It has always been perfect as far as brakes until yesterday, when it got a huge amt. of mud on tires. Could maybe water accumulate in one of the sensor harnesses, effectively shorting it out?
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I want to start swapping out the stock lights for LEDs, beginning with the interior ones. I have read the de facto standard thread about LED swap here: [URL]...
For interior lights, the tacked thread mentions 39mm Festoon. However, when I go to Super Bright LEDs and put in my year, make and model (2002 EX), I get 578 LED Bulb - 8 LED Festoon - 44mm for replacement interior bulbs. Which is correct? 39mm or 44mm? Is there that big of a difference between the two? Will either size work?
I just want to make sure I order the right size to fit a 2002 EX. ETA: I want to start with ordering a few each of 5900K and 4300K just to see the difference in the truck and want to make sure I get the right ones. I don't want the Close Encounters look going on inside.
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2010 Ford Escape Fan Speed Resistor Location? I've seen videos for 2001-2004 and 2008. They do not apply to 2010. The resistor board location has moved since 2008.
It used to be just inboard of the cabin fan motor. They were so close that If you wanted to pull the motor, you needed to unplug the wire harness from the resistor board as well as the motor.
Where is the cabin fan resistor card located for the '10 Escape, pray tell?
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Ok, I've read about the blower motor resistor, and everyone says you should have HIGH speed on the fan.
2002 Excursion with digital display.
I turn the truck on, then turn on the blower. A small puff of air comes out then shuts off completely. I can hear the direction doors opening when i change between foot and face A/C.
Is this the blower resistor that needs changing?
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