Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: E4OD - Extra Power Will Cause Catastrophic Failure
Jan 20, 2012
Ok so I've had this problem since I bought the truck and has never really caused any damage anywhere except in the rain and snow it makes it brake loose much easier. i bought the truck at 90,000 and im at 217000 now. I just recently added a programmer and bored it out and now I am concerned the extra power will cause catastrophic failure, i found this which accurately describes it as to what the problem is? my 92 f-250 felt this way when the driveshaft was getting loose but no such problem on this one.
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Last week i took my '04 V10 in for tires/brakes/rotors with a local service shop. The next day they called saying one of the service attendants must have left the keys in the car overnight, because the battery isn't working right.Here is what happens (all within about 15 seconds)
1. Put key in ignition, engine starts normally
2. Multiple error lights immediately start flashing (engine, glow plug,tire pressure, etc, etc...
3. The MFI screen goes black (like the Tony Soprano finale)
4. the center console flashes "safe ..........." for a split second then goes blank as well.
5. the a/c does not run at all during this
6. the engine RPMs will not increase despite pressing on the accelerator.
7. the engine suddenly stops.
8. everything is then dead on the car.
This all takes place over about 10-15 seconds. This entire process can be reproduced by taking the key out and starting over. They are shipping the car out to a dealer for further evaluation, their computer gave them some sort of "battery learning error", but they were unable to reset it. I haven't heard of a dead battery behaving like this. The Touareg never ceases to amaze
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I have been reading about all these horrific cases about the tensioner just giving and causing catastrophic failure. Without all the maintenance records VWoA is reluctant to support 100% even if you're still within the powertrain warranty. I understand these 20+ cases are a small population out of the entire group, but I don't want to risk being another statistical point for this topic. Just ordered the HS Tuning kit and the two snap on tools.
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My girlfriend owns a '92 Plymouth Acclaim. We noticed a few weeks ago that there was a clunk/rattle noise coming from one wheel, and since it mostly happened while cornering, thought it might be CV joints or maybe suspension. She brought it to her mechanic who inspected the brakes and found that the rear shocks were bad, but sent her away without fixing anything. The other day, on a long drive, the rattle suddenly intensified, morphed into a loud grinding noise, and then the wheel fell off.
I think I'm going to have to confront the mechanic. The bearings apparently hadn't been repacked in some time, and were surely the cause of the rattle noise. I'm less concerned with the fact that he might have overlooked an obvious problem as much as neglected to properly service the vehicle.
Are brake techs supposed to check, then tighten wheel bearings or repack them if needed?
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So I just installed my centric hubs that allow you to use 4x4it rotors. Along with some ebc rotors and pads front and rear. Well the "gear" that gives the signal to the wheel sensor is off center so now my abs and brake light are on cause it keeps losing the signal (checked with a solas pro). How well did they stand behind their product. Thought I should add they are still on my truck because my old rotors and wheel bearings were totally fried.
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I just purchased an 04 f-250 Lariat. It only has 103k miles. first time diesel owner. When I drive it, it shifts smooth as ever. BUT, when I need that extra power to downshift, nothing happens. Nothing raddles, it stays cool when it warms up. Again, normal driving behavior its fine, until it needs to downshift. I have two referred mechanics, but id like to get a little more info before I take it in.
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ok i was just driving my 2004 ford f150 truck and it stopped running. I turned the key and it started back up again and then while on idle it stopped again. I took it too auto zone and it showed a code of p1237 which as far as i can see says fuel pump secondary circuit failure. does that mean i need a new fuel pump and how hard is it to replace.
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After driving about 100 miles there's about 0.25 gallons excessive fluid in motor oil. We are wondering whether it's about fuel injectors' gaskets or something else.
If we should replace injectors, where to buy them trhustworthy and also a quality ones?
The car is Ford Excursion 6.0l 2005
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Electric power steering failing when starting the car and driving right away without warming it up?
My 2009 ISF has recently started doing this occasionally. It was when I started the car for the first time of the day, and pulled away within 10 seconds or so. When I let it "warm up" for a minute I have not had it happen.
But the thing is, I've had the car for a few months and have never had this happen until now. My mechanic plugged it in to the computer and there are no codes up, or in the history.
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We recently purchased a 2008 RX350 with 61,000 miles. We had a potentially dangerous brake failure when the brake booster unit failed. It was an expensive repair ($1400.) and Lexus has refused to stand behind the product.
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I bought my 2008 JDM Prius a couple of weeks ago, at 84,500km. After a week, it started losing engine coolant. (Great start! Hope it's not a sign of things to come...) Fortunately, covered by a 3 month Dealer Warranty - hopefully. Yet to make the claim.
Anyway, went to the local Toyota Dealer to get some of the proper Toyota SSL (Super Long Life) Coolant to top it up. Got chatting with the Service Agent about Prius Service and what HSD Adjustments are possible (not many) and showed him my symptoms.
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converted my 2008 xl to power locks and windows. locks work great, but can't find reliable power source for windows. tried tying into stereo but blew fuses.
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OK, this one has me stumped...I have a 93 F150, 302 with the E4OD. I know the transmission needs to be rebuilt (probably a bad pump). When I put it in reverse, the engine will start to bog down and will die unless I put it back into park or neutral.
If the engine does die, the fuel pump does not prime with the key "on" and the engine obviously will not start. If I let the truck sit for about an hour, the fuel pump primes like it should and the engine starts right up. The fuel pump shut-off does not trip and all fuses are good.
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2004 VW Toureg Power Steering failure. Searched the threads and came up with nothing. Power steering just quitting? It is as if the pump is not building any pressure. PS fluid was a little low, added fluid to top it of (2 months ago), everything fine. Last week suddenly no power steering. By the way this problem makes it real hard to park.
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I've been noticing that my battery is almost always fully charged or close to it. Then I noticed that when I 'should' be getting assist from the MG2 and not charging the battery, i'm not getting the assist I would assume I should be getting. Seems like most of the energy is getting put back into the battery instead of assisting the MG2
Notice how the arrow is going to the battery from the MG2 (ELECMOTR) and not vice versa. This is majority of the time. Getting less of this also. hince - MPGs are down also.
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I was using the12V power outlet to power a small air compressor to a small air tank. Had to answer a phone and forgot about it for a while. When I returned, the air compressor was not working. I figured I either blew a fuse or fried the compressor. I pulled the 12v plug from the power outlet and inserted it in the cigarette liter outlet and the compressor still worked.
I then plugged my radar detector into the 12V outlet and it did not work.So I figureed I blew a fuse. I pulled the 15 amp fuse from #54 but it looked good. To double check I swapped this fuse with the 15 amp fuse for the rear wiper and the fuse was fine.
So I am thinking the 12V power outlet socket must be bad. Isn't that why we have fuses -to protect an expensive part with a cheap one? Is this an easy DIY job?
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What happens when a power inverter fails while driving?
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I have a gen II Prius 2007 with 115,000 miles on it ...
When I use my brakes at low speeds under 15 mph, there is a bit of extra brake travel before they engage properly ...
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I have an 05 Prius which had no significant problems until the HV battery died this past Feb. Two days later, I'm on the highway and lose power, manage to get the car to an off ramp. Have it towed to a dealer where the power failure pulled up code DTC P3190 and I was told that the car was simply car out of gas. The car was at 3 pips without any indicator going off but after consulting this forum I thought "Okay, maybe this is just the new normal." Filled my car with 5 gallons worth of gas which topped it off (?) and went on my way.
I'll add here for lack of a better place that with the new battery the car has not ever seemed to accelerate cleanly - always feels like there's some resistance on the accelerator when trying to go above 50 on the highway.
Cut to yesterday - I lost power on the highway 3 miles from home with the car at 7 pips (!). I had only put 130 miles on the car since last filling the tank so I can *not* imagine this is a fuel issue. And, worse than ever before, this time when the engine failed I had only about 1000 feet to get over to the shoulder. I did manage to get over safely (for those in SoCal, this was on the 5 North and I narrowly missed blocking the ramps to the 134). To make matters even worse it rush hour in 95+ heat, and I was pinned in my car for 20 minutes (traffic on one side, retaining wall on the other) until the tow truck arrived. I cannot have this happen again.
I had the car towed to the dealer this morning. When the car was picked up the car was at 7 pips in my driveway. The dealer states when the car was dropped of there it was at 1 pip, and sent me a picture of the odometer to verify. Wth?!
How is this possible? How could the gauge have dropped so rapidly? Is there a legitimate way the fuel indicator could have dropped so much or is the dealer scamming me? And what could be be wrong? The AAA driver this morning said they should have replaced the accessory battery when they replaced the hybrid battery, and perhaps that was the source of the problem?
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My 2004 Volvo XC 90 has a severe "thump" in the front end, which is then followed by a very brief (split second) internal (meaning dashboard lights, hi-fi, dome lights, etc) power failure. Initially, the power failure would last only a split second and then car would continue running as normal, and there we no error codes or check engine lights.
But on the last long drive home, the "thump" was harder than usual, and the lights internally completely went out, hazard lights could not be turned on, blinkers could not be switched on, hi-fi went out, etc (though the electric windows would work). I pulled over, and turned the car off and restarted it, and the yellow exclamation point dashboard icon/alert lit up, and a service message flashed referring to the anti-lock brake failure, and that the SRS needed to be checked.
This problem has been occurring for a couple of months, and is very intermittent. Before this last incident, I took it into the dealership, who could not figure it out,. Now that I have an error code, I have it at another dealership, who seems equally mystified and have told me that they don't think the error code of check the SRS is going to fix the problem. The engine thump, followed by electrical failure seems really weird....
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Faulty combination meters on the Toyota Prius. Loss of braking and power steering on the vehicle? This has happened to me 4 of the 100+ times my dash lights were not working. On those 4 occasions I was driving without the dash lights and all of the warning lights came on and the car lost power steering and the ABS braking and I had to use the emergency brake to stop. Fortunately when this has happened I have not been on the highway and there was no snow or it could have been very dangerous.
This issue has only happened when there is a malfunction with the combination meter. I understand this can create many issues within the vehicle including braking difficulties. The response of the Manager at my local Toyota shop said "well, at least you have brakes, you just won't have them in an emergency stop." Wow! I've read accounts of people going 65 mph and losing brakes when this has happened which could be very deadly.
I'm surprised at Toyota's response with this possibly deadly issue. I'm also surprised that the Combination Meter Failure has not be recalled because based off what I have read about 3% of Prius owners have experienced issues with this and the braking system. At what point does a "warranty" become a "recall"? Please note that this issue is separate from the "accelerator recall".
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