On my way to work this morning my truck died it inst getting fuel. I've pushed the fuel reset behind the kick panel there isnt a fuse or relay and i called a dealership about that I don't know I wouldn't think the fuel pump would go out all at once Its a 04 fx4 super cab 5.4....
View 13 RepliesI was driving down the freeway, headed up a hill and my truck started slowing down, rapidly, it eventually died. I put it in neutral and started it up, went about 1' and it died again. It did this several times. I was almost to the top of a hill and was hoping I could coast down, but didn't make it. It ended up dying completely.
I would turn the key to start it, and it would keep trying to turn over (even when i let go of the key. it was weird). Then after a few times of that, the battery just died.
I also noticed a smell. Like something burning. I noticed it off and on for the last week and asked a friend to check it out but he was like "oh its nothing".
2004 screw 5.4 xlt
I was driving home and heard a loud rat tat tat tat . I thought I might have run over something. I slowed down and the noise quit, pulled over, checked things out, nothing apparent. I was only a couple miles from home so Started driving again and the ABS light came on, then went off. Another indicator came on and went off... then the entire instrument cluster died except for the airbag light, no tach, speedo. Truck still drove fine. I stopped in the driveway shut her off and then tried to restart...no go. Kind of like a dead battery, tried to turn over.
Had a few things to take care of b4 getting back to the truck. Went out and I hear a continuous click, click, click back by the fuel cap (fuel pump)? ......but the truck is OFF no key in ignition. I disconnected the battery and the noise quit. Battery is showing 12 volts. I stuck the charger on. These symptoms sound like anything even possible???????
I just got a 2004 F-150 XLT. 200k miles AT. The problem is that it won't start. The previous owner was driving it when it suddenly died and wouldn't crank over. He was told by an auto shop it neded a new engine.
I don't think it needs a new engine because it stopped while driving. I may be wrong. I put a new battery in it. When I turn the key to start it, it just makes one loud click and doesn't do anything else. The oil and coolant look fine. What may be wrong with it or how to see if the engine is bad?
My 06 f150 v6 auto died on the way to work last night. It said trans fault on the dash. The trans has been shifting fine no slipping no hard shifts. The trans has 113k I replaced the motor and it has 57k. Both have been working great until last night. I plugged my scanner up it had a bunch of codes so I cleared them and done a koeo test and got 10 codes.
P0141
P0161
P0740
P0743
P0748
P0750
P0753
P0755
P0758
P0962
With the key in the on position the truck was showing 27.3 psi on fuel.
Last week, my 2005 FX4 Screw died suddenly, and would immediately lose all power to the gauges as soon as the jump leads were disconnected, not to mention the engine would eventually die shortly after that. After a bit of logical thinking, a buddy and I determined that it was likely the alternator, so we pulled it and replaced it. We also had the alternator tested, and it failed every single test, so it was pretty clearly the culprit. The good news is that the truck starts and runs/stays running again. The bad news is that my audio and 4x4 systems are both offline.
As far as audio goes, I'm guessing it's an easy fix because it's probably a fuse somewhere that got toasted. But the 4x4 is a little more of a problem. I tested the vacuum lines by pulling them from the hubs, and neither had any suction. Okay, the solenoid isn't getting power, probably another fried fuse, right? Well, here's where I'm getting confused.
My understanding of this 4wd system is that it works like this: When in 2wd, the solenoid engages the vacuum and pulls the part of the hub that locks in the wheels (not sure what specifically to call it) out, therefore disengaging the front 2 wheels. When 4wd is turned on, the vacuum disengages and that part of the hub pops into place, locking out the front wheels into 4wd.
So, by that rationale, if the 4wd solenoid isn't working due to an electrical issue, then my truck should automatically just be locking itself into 4wd, right? Because without the vacuum to disengage that part of the hub, it should just pop into place and keep the truck locked into 4wd. So if I'm correct in my understanding, then I have another problem because my truck is still operating very much in 2wd.
I did the classic 4wd tests: tight circle to feel the front end gripping/pulling, gun it from a dead stop to see if all 4 tires engaged. But I turned in a much tighter circle than 4wd would ever allow, didn't feel the front end grip/pull at all, and the "peel out" test only showed my 2 rear tires as launching me forward. I also tried shifting into 4-Low, but the truck never shifted into low gear either. -I know that's probably just electrical, but I'm just trying to be thorough in my testing/explanation.
5.4 L, Engine runs if primed at the intake. Fuel pump can be heard running but no fuel gets to the engine. Truck is mint and being sold real cheap due to this issue.
Fuel Pump? Filter? Both? I haven't seen the truck, a friend is considering buying it and rolling the dice it is a quick fix. Fuel is in the tank .....
I have a 2004 F150 XLT 5.4 L 79,000 miles. Yesterday i was driving home turned a corner and the low fuel light came on and the fuel gauge is well below empty. I had approx 1/2 tank of fuel when it happened. I have since filled tank all the way but the gauge will not move and low fuel light stays on. Everything else is working fine! I have never run the truck low enough on fuel to make the dummy light come on.....
View 5 RepliesOn my way into work this morning, my 06 with the 5.4 started running very rough/shaking at low rpms. I could kick it out of overdrive and it would smooth out and seemingly be fine at higher rpms.
This worked out for a couple of miles until the truck just died on me completely. The Edge is showing po351, 352, 353......358 codes. Ignition coil Primary/Secondary circuit fault on every cylinder.
I'm thinking its unlikely that every coil failed simultaneously....computer? When I try to start the truck, it will try to hit on a cylinder or two, but will not run.
I own a 2007 Lariat F150 with the 5.4 4x4. It has 96000 miles.
That being said. The other day I was driving and went through a pretty big mud hole on a county road (couldn't go around it). Following, very shortly, my truck bogged down and died. "Low Oil Pressure" popped up. I let it sit for a minute, and checked underneath to make sure that I hadn't popped a line or ripped something. I hadn't.
I start the truck up again, and started driving no issues, for about 3/4 of a mile, and again it died, and "LOP". So I let it sit for about 15 minutes, thinking about why it would have that pop up. Couldn't figure out anything. Started again. and had a really rough idle in between the 500-1500 RPM range.
I decided to change out the oil when I got home. I put in some 15-40, hoping that would solve the issue.
It hasn't still idles really rough, but won't shut down anymore. I didn't try driving it though because I was afraid it would die again.
I'm not sure if the spark plugs are bad, I don't think they've ever been changed (I know it's bad). I'm pretty sure that it's not a vacuum leak, but not 100%. I need this truck to run.
Driving to work my trucks radio turned off.. My abs light came on.. A screeching sound from front hubs.. Then I stopped abs light went off hubs locked.. Air bag light came on.. I hit the power button on radio it displayed low battery.. All interior options were off. Outside lights dim .. When I got to work I shut it off and tried to restart... Acted like battery was dead.. It's a 3 week old battery. I also noticed , it seemed like I could not turn off my head lights.. Switch did not seem to make any difference with lights. After being off for a mon. The lights got a little brighter. Is it just the alternator? I got no low battery or dummy light. It did have a mildly sluggish start.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2007 F-150 5.4L V3 Lariat with 90,000 miles on it. For about 5-6 months now I have noticed a strong sputtering when I am driving at low RPM's around the 44-50 mph range. When I lightly give it gas the sputtering begins and doesn't cease until I accelerate out of the current gear into a higher RPM/speed. This has become more pronounced over the last few weeks so my mechanic replaced the fuel flter and checked to make sure the pump was working as well. We also added some 5w-30 oil to make it full, even though 5-20 is preferred.
Truck ran smooth initially but then it got worse with the sputtering. A couple of days later I filled up my gas tank and as I pulled out of the station my truck shuttered alot and died. the CEL came on, LOP came on, and even the low tire pressure light came on. The truck will not start now, but it cranks smooth and strong until the battery loses power. I had the truck towed and then we reset the gas shut of toggle, sprayed starting fluid in the air intake, and checked all fuses, as well as the fuel pump engagement. Still no ignition. Next we replaced all spark plugs(4.5 hours later). Still no ignition. Only CEL light and low tire pressure light. I bought it used less than 18 months ago?
i have a 2006 f-150 xlt, i was driving it today and it started making a 5x5 beeping noise shortly after i started it up. I read on a few forums that that beeping is a warning about the passenger airbag sensor or something. anyways it went away and kept driving for 5 minutes or so when suddenly the dash went out and all the gauges dropped but i was still able to drive fine. A minute later the engine just died and i managed to pull over to the side of the road. now nothing works when i turn the key, not even a light, its just a dead weight, the remote locking doesn't even work. the only sign of life is a LED from my phone charger that is plugged into the outlet. the battery is only 2 months old so its not that.
View 2 RepliesI own a 2008 Prius with 87k on it. The factory hybrid warranty was good through 11/15 and on 1/22/16 the dash lit up along with the MFD screen. After research I thought it was an inverter pump. I got the call from Toyota that it was throwing a P80 code meaning it is the hybrid battery. The dealership told me that it would run 3200.00 for a new replacement. I called the service manager and had him send in a goodwill exception since we service our 7 other toyotas with them.
Toyota corporate responded they would cover the battery under goodwill but I would have to pay the labor cost of 450.00. I spoke to the service manger and the dealership is covering half of that which I'm only liable for 225.00. I'm not out 3200.00 but after doing more research the typical battery last 60-80k. Some are luckier to get over 150k. For those Prius owners approaching those miles beware that you might need a battery replacement. This will be the last hybrid I will ever own.
I have had my '08 Prius for 3 years and have little to no problems with it. This morning I jumped in to go to work and the entire dash lit up and then faded out and died. The only lights still on is the check engine light, Airbag light and the little green light on the Park button. The worst part is now I can not completely shut it down. I am wondering if it is just a dead battery or if this is something bigger. If it is a dead battery I am baffled at how it could be. I have AAA coming to jump it and I hope that is all it is. Sound familiar?
View 16 RepliesSo, I just had the fuel pump replaced on my '15 6.7 a month ago and it just died again. (next day edit: it didn't actually die, it showed all the same symptoms)
Same symptoms: whining sound, low fuel pressure warning, reduced power warning.
This time I'm 50 miles from home so I pulled off the road before it shut off. Interesting, I was in a hilly area and my low fuel warning came on too. We are waiting for a tow. I was considering trying to push on but don't want to get stuck in a dangerous spot on the highway. We're in a church parking lot.
So, last time this happened I was on flat road with about a half tank of fuel on a lunch break. I ran a mile after the warnings came on to feel out the issue and to see what would happen. I happened to be only about a mile away from my dealer so I drove that way. I got reduced power warning and then it cut power on me (limp mode). I made it to about 100 yards away before it cut off.
This time, I was in a hilly area at night on a windy two lane road with no shoulders in the woods. I was miles from civilization and was showing below a quarter tank of fuel. ~100 miles to EMPTY. I got the low fuel pressure warning first and then the reduced power mode before the whining noise started. I was climbing a hill on a curve at the time. I drove a quarter mile and then pulled off the road into a parking lot so I wouldn't be stuck on the shoulder. It didn't actually go into limp mode.
I let it sit a few minutes, talked it over with the wife and decided to call for a tow. After talking to the tow truck driver who said he would be an hour because he had to go find a bigger truck, I decided to see what I could do while I wait. I fired it back up and the fuel level dropped to below 1/8 and I was now showing 33 miles to EMPTY. I was parked on a hill with the back end up. I had backed the truck into a space to make it easier for the tow truck driver. I let it run a minute, checked for leaks and it seemed to run fine with no studdering or additional warning lights.
CEL was on but no new warnings. I put in my code reader and pulled the P0087. Just one code. I revved it a bit to see if there were any issues. It seemed fine so I decided to try my luck. I started driving towards home with the intention to stop at the first diesel station to fill up. Truck ran fine. After two minutes of driving gently, heart racing, my fuel level came back up and it now read 88 miles to EMPTY. I drove 11 miles to the nearest station and filled up. No issues. I shut it down. I fired it back up. Still no issues so with a full tank, I drove home the remaining 30 miles without issue.
Planning to take it in to the dealer Monday to get it checked. Could this be from an air pocked due to low fuel level and hilly terrain? Is my new pump dying already? Is there something else going on inside the tank or elsewhere?
I have a 2008 prius. Usually it gets me around 52-55mpg, I've had it since January. Since a couple of days ago its not giving me anything above 49. I know thats a normal number, but considering the fact that its usually quite a bit higher I'm wondering what the cause of the drop is. Also around the same time, when I pull out of my driveway I notice what appears to be a bit of water leakage. Its under the vehicle in the front center, and it only happens when I start the car for the day and pull out of my driveway (its on an incline).
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 f150 fx4 no start.fuel pump doesn't run. I have power at pump connector but the ground has high resistance.did visual on harness and connectors nothing found.I don't have access to a diagram to chase it any further.?
View 1 RepliesJust bought a 04 f150 crewcab 4x4 and the fuel gauge doesn't work.
View 8 RepliesSomeone stabbed a hole in my gas tank to steal my gas i'm guessing. Is there a safe and correct way to repair the tank, or do I need to get a new one?
View 5 RepliesWould like to change the fuel filter on my 04 F150. I have about 86K miles on it and not sure how long it has been since changed because I bought the truck with 75K on it. Is this easy job? Also where is the filter located.
View 5 Replies