Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Cranks But Does Not Start
Jan 9, 2017
Truck has been running perfect and is my daily driver. Went grocery shopping with the wife and made two stops and drove it home. Parked in the driveway. No hint of any issues but when I went out a couple of hours later we went to head out to dinner and it cranks and doesnt start. Nothing out of the ordinary anywhere. No check engines lights, no theft lights flashing, nothing to indicate an issue. Engine sounds perfectly normal cranking, I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key. I cleaned the battery terminals today because they had some corrosion and I checked all of the fuses that have anything to do with fuel or fire and nothing was blown.
I also went and bought a Fuel Pump Drive Module and installed it and still nothing so I took it back.This is a pretty pampered truck, not a torn up beater. What else I should check? Will probably town it to a shop tomorrow if I dont have anything else to try but I am at a loss at this point. I tried to listen with a stethoscope and I dont hear the injectors firing or the COP's. Oh I also shot it with starting fluid and nothing happened so I dont believe its fuel related. I think something is keeping it from firing the COP's or the injectors arent firing. But what could it be? Nothing happened to the truck last time I drove it. Oh I did check the fuel pump cutoff button as well. Nothing there either.
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Ok so... have an 04 that has more issues than Playboy magazine... any DIY tips or tricks...
I dont have an original key but the key I have has worked before. Motor cranks but wont turn over. Have tried the battery unhook thing, didnt work.
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My 2005 cranks but will not start. I spray starter fluid in throttle body and it will start but won't stay running. I've replaced the fuel pump and the fuel sender unit which is located under the spare tire. After I replaced the fuel sender unit It started and ran for about 30 seconds. It quit when the fuel line popped off the fuel pump and pushed gas all over the ground. I secured the gas line back on and now it won't start again unless I use starting fluid.
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I just went out to move my truck to take out garbage and it cranks but doesn't start. It is 4.6L 4WD. I sprayed ether in intake no change. Checked all fuses all good. It has been raining pretty hard the last 3 days and it has been sitting in rain all 3 days. I checked for codes with a simple code scanner no codes. But the code scanner I used is not able to do KOEO or KOER tests. I know it needs new plugs but it has never sputtered or died on me. Has slight misfire but not engine stopping. I havnt had any check engine lights or problems before.
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Brought a 2006 f350 6.0 from the action and knowing it was damaged from the frame, i went ahead and brought a another f350 6.0 2005 from someone around town, the last owner is calming the truck was stole, and most of the engine was stole, and the windows where damage. ( I just wanted to buy the truck for the body so i can transfer the engine to this one! ) but instead of switching the engine, me and my dad went ahead and only put the missing parts back onto the engine....
I can tell the last owner wasn't telling the truth, and me and my dad where thinking the last owner made up his own story about the truck being stole !! I did a vin check and noting came up about having a bad history!!!!!!!!! I'm thinking something went bad in the truck, and the last owner did his own fault story... Anyways!!!
we finally put everything back in place, and the truck cranks, but does NOT start!! and also has no spark. sometimes it sounds like it does wanna start!! we check the fuel, and wires, oil, fuel filer! everything good, but the truck has no spark, and where not sure if thats the problem. and also switch out the Crank sensor. Still no luck!!
And also there is smoke when we crank. battery are good too, and even left the truck 28 hours on the wire to head up the engine!!
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Bought a truck from a guy the other day. Long story, but he was a con artist. Told me the battery was dead from cranking it, he couldn't hear the fuel pump so he thinks it needs a new one. Got it home, checked fpdm, it was unplugged. Plugged it in fp running now. Charged battery. Cranks slowly won't start. Appears the engine has been changed. Have codes P0201-208, all injector codes. Cranking it over reminds me of an older distributor type engine that if off its timing. But also of cranking with a low battery. There's a new starter on it already. I'm going to pull the converter bolts on the weekend to see if they may have bound the torque when they installed the engine. Injector codes?
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My 04 f150 has been sitting upwards in my drive way for a month now won't start cranks great with full power..
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My truck's been having an occasional hard start, meaning the engine cranks strong but it fails to catch and then sputters. The 2nd start attempt usually fires up with no issues and then runs perfectly otherwise.
MPG's haven't changed, fuel filter was changed 15K ago. Air filter is clean. Plugs were changed about 10K ago. I always use Shell/Chevron gas. MAF sensor looked clean when I took it out so I didn't do anything to it.
This is starting to happen more frequently, maybe once every few weeks and I get a feeling it's the start of something. I've found myself waiting a few seconds for the fuel pressure gauge to come up before turning the key to start reliably. In the past, I could simply flick the key and it fires up the first time.
I see posts talking about the fuel pump module above the spare tire. What are symptoms of that going bad? Any pending codes that might be stored?
I'm about to get myself a scanner since I need one sooner or later. Which specific PID's to check while debugging this?
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Recently my F150 has had issues starting in the mornings. It is in an insulated garage. It takes about 10 cranks before it fires. Then it struggles to run like its not getting fuel for a second or two, then rpm's jump to 1200 and has a slight miss for another second or two, then it smooths out and is fine. Leaving my driveway it will have a miss around 2000rpm for about two seconds then the truck will run perfect the rest of the day. It can sit outside in the cold for 10 hours while i am at work and will fire right up and run great. The issues only happens in the morning.
All the plugs were changed about 6 months ago. Fuel pump and fuel pump drive module were changed about 3 weeks ago. The check engine light has come on twice. The first time I didn't have access to a code reader and since the truck started right away and then died instantly i figured that was why the light came on, so i disconnected the battery and re-connected it. Light didn't come back on for a week. Second time code was for misfire on cylinder 5. I am changing the fuel filter this week. If that doesn't work i was gonna change the #5 coil.
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I've been having this occasional starting issue with my truck. I turn the key and the engine acts like it's going to fire up, so I let go of the key and it doesn't start. Then I try to restart it and either it cranks and fires a few times before it starts, or it fires right up and the starter grinds because I couldn't let go of the key fast enough.
I've had this problem a few times before, but lately it seems to be happening more often. It works normally 98% of the time. Maybe I'm just not letting the engine crank long enough to get it to run before letting go of the key.
Also, the spark plugs were just changed 10k miles ago and when the truck is running it runs great.
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I just purchased a 2004 Explorer from a police auction. It had driver side damage but nothing major. When I try to start it it cranks but nothing else. I purchased a new battery, fuel filter, coil packs, spark plugs and installed all. But same thing it tries to fire up but stops short. A few times we sprayed starter fluid in it and it would start for about a second and a half and shut off..... I also listened for the fuel pump and I hear it coming on when I turn the key and checked the inertia switch...
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I have a 2008 r32 that was always 100% reliable until now. One owner, no wrecks, 90k miles, all services done by the dealer and the car is in perfect condition-except it won't start. I noticed symptoms a few weeks ago - a little longer cranking time to catch and then it slowly got worse. More tires at cranking until it would catch and run. Had it to the local dealer- 3 Rivers VW, they checked it out and said there were no codes -they said after talking to VW tech to disconnect the battery to "reset" the system.
It worked for two days and then it completely died- I think their "repair" ($200 in diagnostic time) was a waste. Two days later complete zero-cranks but won't start- flat bedded to dealer again this time they have the car for ten days! First they replace the ignition switch (said it was worn/loose) , then the battery ground strap in the trunk- said it showed to much resistance (4.5 ohms), they then called and said it still wasn't starting right-need to keep it for another day. Last they replaced a relay - part number 1KO-951-253. They declared it fixed! Car started for ONE day now nothing again. Searched - crank sensor, fuse, coil packs, etc- but no solid leads.
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I have researched a little and believe i have a leak in the high pressure oil system. My 2004 Excursion 6.0 will start when it is cold but after warming up will not start it just cranks over. So here is my question; the two wires leading from the Turbo had melted and shorted and in fixing that i loosened what i believe to be an oil line feeding the Turbo. Could this be the problem? Also is there an O-Ring that seats the line into the block that may need replaced?
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My 2004 6.0 will not start. It cranks fine. History This happened once before about a year ago towed it into the shop and it stated fine.
The batteries were low yesterday and the truck would not start because the voltage was too low to run the starter. I charged them. Went to try again and I cranked it for close to 30 seconds with no results.
Only cods so far are #6 glow plug and EGR valve open. Whats next, check the FICA?
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My 2008 Accent has a manual trans and 4-Cyl, 1.6L. It had some bad fuel 4 weeks ago, and filled the tank with 97 to clean it back up.
I was driving and came to a stop sign - the server stopped and wouldn't start up again. I was worried about the fuel pump, and ended up replacing the whole thing (under the passenger seat).
I have tested the following:
- When cranked, the bottom of the spark plugs are wet (so gas is getting to the plugs)
- When plugs are pulled out, they spark against the block (so spark should be getting to the cylinder).
The car still doesn't start, and the cranking sounds 'off'. I can't exactly describe what's wrong, but I've had it for six years and it doesn't sound right.
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2004 3.0L Ranger Edge, 88,000 miles on it, I am the original owner. It won't start. It cranks strongly. Usually when this happens, I have to reset the fuel pump inertia switch. This time, resetting the switch does not work. I disconnected the switch and jumped the two wires going to it, but still no start. The switch seems to work ok, in that I can reset it (a ball, spring, and magnet mechanism, I think), then shake it and the ball will come loose.
The fuel pump 20A fuse in the engine compartment is good. The fuel pump relay in the engine compartment is good (I switched it out with an identical relay that runs the fog lights without problem). I am getting spark. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but pressing in the Schraeder valve on the fuel rail produces gas.
Usually, when the inertia switch is tripped I can get the engine to briefly start by using starter fluid in the air intake. But not this time. I do not hear the fuel pump kicking in when I turn the ignition key to the "On" position, and that would lead me to think that the pump is bad. Except, I don't get a brief start using starter fluid. The fuel filter has never been changed, but again, since I get no start with starter fluid, I don't see how that could be the problem. OBDII scan shows no codes.
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I have an 08 2.4L Sonata with 95000mi. When turning the ignition it will crank and sound like its about to start but won't. I was able to get it to start by pushing the gas pedal a bit when it sounds like it wanted to start. Once started, it ran rough and would stall unless I revved it above 1500 RPM. Still sounded like it occasionally miss fired.
I kept it revved until it reached normal operating temp. When I took my foot slowly off the gas, rpm dropped to about 500-600 and it seemed to pulse . I think engine was raising throttle to keep from stalling. It stalls if I try to put in gear without pressing on gas to raise throttle.
The spark plugs were changed at about 70K mikes. I have not read any codes as the car is stuck in the driveway. Could it be a vacuum leak? I know the Entourages have air intake hose leaks that cause rough idle but with a 6 cyl it still runs. Fuel pump problem?
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I have a 2008 Kia Sportage LX. Lately, when I have put my key in the ignition and start to turn it, it starts automatically. On my ignition I have Off, Lock, ACC, On, and Start. When I start to turn my key to Lock position my car cranks up automatically.
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While the owner of 2 Ford Trucks, I also have a 2004 Ford Taurus with 28K on it. For a while now the vehicle is hard starting, cranks but acts like it is not getting fuel, however, I can hear the pump come on. Other times it starts right up, but a clicking sound can be heard coming from the firewall area. At times the gauges will not immediately respond when the Vehicle is started and then all at once they will begin to work. Now, my check engine light is on, but my hand held obd will not read it. All the terminal pins look great, obd tester works on my other two vehicles, cigar lighter working, the fuses i checked are good. Vehicle runs great. Can this all be related to a bad module?
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Any way, working on an '04 R32 (as you could assume) that has a crank with no start condition. All fuses have been checked and have been verified as functional. Have replaced both J271 and J363 relays (labelled '428' and '100' on top in engine compartment in relay location next to brake fluid reservoir. Battery was also recently replaced as was the crankshaft position sensor.
Background: Vehicle was towed to dealership where it was diagnosed (somehow) initially by their tech that there was power all the way up until injectors and then nothing happens. This didn't make sense at the time, but the work was authorized to remove the intake manifold and fix the wiring underneath. A short time later (3 hours) and returned to the dealership to check on progress as we happened to be in the area and the S/A spoke with the tech and came back and said that he didn't think it was the wiring after all. Instead, at this point, he thought that it was the crankshaft position sensor. So after they decided they wanted to do several more hours of dio without contacting in advance (thinking that the repair was already authorized) they were no further ahead. I insisted on having the car towed out of there after they couldn't tell me for certain what it was. I can throw parts at a vehicle all day long as well.
The vehicle was towed out of there and the crankshaft position sensor was replaced. After the fact, a friend with Ross Tech verified that it was getting a signal (and more than likely replaced unnecessarily). Additionally, he also verified that injectors were also getting power and everything else was alright. The Auto Scan (posted below) showed that there was a Power Supply Relay for ECU fault (Fault Code: 17925) and that the two fuses - J271 and J363 were more than likely at fault. Both fuses were located under the hood but I also found a secondary location under the driver's side dash that had another basic power fuse labelled '100'.
Additionally, I don't believe it is the fuel pump that is at fault. I pulled the sender hose off of the fuel rail and inserted it into a juice container and it sprayed enough fuel to have started the engine. Currently, I am at a loss and very frustrated with this whole ordeal. The vehicle had been driven to work and sat all day, not exhibiting so much as an ounce of anything wrong. End of day, leaving work, the car would just crank and crank. Would it make sense to pull the plugs and let them dry out because of the excessive cranks? Maybe they're just fouled? Sometimes we get too caught up in codes and parts that it's easy enough to overlook basics. I don't really know, I guess. Below is the full Auto Scan from Ross Tech. The one I believe is contributing to the no-start is in bold. Just a side note, the dealership told me that NO CODES were present. This conflicts with what I have here...
Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57 75 76
VIN: WVWKG61J74D132718 Mileage: 164180km/102016miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 022-906-032-BJS.lbl
Part No SW: 022 906 032 EG HW: 14. 4.0 3
Component: MOTRONIC ME7.1.1G 5626
Coding: 0000132
[Code] ....
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My 04 accent will not start. I have an automatic. It cranks but will not start. First I replaced the fuel pump and relay. Still nothing. Wasn't getting fire until my friend tested to coil and i tried to crank while the tester was in the ground wire while I turned it over and it cranked. Only worked for about an hour and is still not starting but it sounds like something isn't telling it to crank?
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