I wonder how prevalent this problem is with Ford alternators. Sure looks like it was cracked a long time, like maybe from over-tightening. I was planning on having new bearings installed to hopefully take care of a periodic whine. Already replaced the idler pulleys. As much as I dislike rebuilt alternators, looks like I will be getting one.
View 1 Replies]I am in the process of swapping my oil cooler. When i pulled the smaller cover off of the cover that goes over the oil cooler, i heard a pop. The cover, not the one that bolts onto the motor the one that bolts to that, is cracked...bad. is there a place i can get one? need to know parts illustration with numbers?
View 14 RepliesThis pump hangs down fairly low and appears easy for ice and rocks to hit on my 2013. Something hit mine and took a chunk out of the drain tube. No leaks yet but I am looking to get a new one and keep this as a spare, or just JB weld it. Can I just buy the lower section, or do I need to get entire pump?
Any creative protection bracket made? Would just have to take it off to change filter though. Any leak in this housing is a major show stopper when in the middle of nowhere! Maybe why it is getting brought into the tank on new models?
I'll be back to post the whole situation if the dealer doesn't make right on what I'm going through right now, but wanted to ask as I didn't find much searching, any issue with a cracked oil filter housing? I took car in for 30k service and came back leaking oil. Apparently part is back ordered and may take weeks. I spoke with ECS tuning and they said they don't have their aluminum filter housing yet for this model.
View 12 RepliesMy fuel filter housing has cracked and i need to replace it. I have been told by volvo that i need to have it programed is this true or not ???
View 1 RepliesHow to replace the plastic (painted) part of the sideview mirror? The glass is fine and the mount is fine, but I've clipped something and cracked the painted plastic. Is that replaceable separately? What is the part number?
View 2 RepliesI have a salvaged 2009 prius. I just found out from my dealer that the connector between the a/c compressor and the synergy drive inverter is cracked and falling apart so it's causing a short. You can't just change the connector so the bill to replace the a/c compressor and the inverter comes to about $6700 and it's not under warranty because it's salvaged.
I an trying to find if there's ways for me to just replace the connector and where I might be able to find such a thing. The other thought I have is to just find some way to create an insulated housing for the existing connector. Maybe use a plastic mold?
What's the best way to go? The connector basically has two parts. One part is attached to the a/c compressor and the other part is attached to the inverter and then you just connect them together as if it's a power extension cable. It's orange in color.
I have a 2006 Sonata with 88,000 miles on it. Currently, and for the past 11 months, the CEL has been on and the code always returned is a p0456, very small evap leak.
I searched for leaks but couldn't find any. I also replaced the purge control valve, but the same p0456 continues to reappear. Of course I also made sure the gas cap was on tight.
I received a coupon from the dealer for a free diagnostic so I took the car in.
The dealer reported the code as p0455, large evap leak, and said the cause was a cracked fuel pump housing. Cost to repair $850. Seems to me the dealer just picked the most costly part to replace, although I can confirm they looked at it because they forgot to screw the access cover back on.
So what I would like to know is how the dealer would have made such a diagnosis? I cleaned and inspected the outside of the pump and saw no crack, but I also understand that the crack may be too small see.
I want to be able to confirm that the dealer's diagnosis is correct, but how can I do that? I have a hand operated vacuum pump and access to shop air to aid in the diagnosis.
I read elsewhere on this site about pressurizing the system and putting soapy water on the area to show bubbles where the leak is, but where would I connect the air hose? And more importantly, what is a safe pressure to use?
Of course tracking down the cause of p0456. I know the charcoal canister could be problem as well, but I'd like to find some way of isolating down the failing component.
I bought a used 2006 F150 Lariat 4x4 (5.4L) and discovered that the oil filter and filter housing did not match stock. All web searches return the fram filter ph2 but the truck had the equivalent of ph10575. It was the right filter for the housing so it's not a case of someone putting the wrong filter on the truck. The ph10575 filter is for model years 2010 - 2013. Should I start investigating whether the engine had been replaced or is this normal?
View 6 RepliesI trying to see if this is something that is a easy fix or mayor work. Leak coming from that metal housing behind alternator. Does this housing came off? or do I need to take out the intake out? .
View 8 RepliesSome family members borrowed my truck, and when they returned I have a loud whining noise coming from the rear axle, which I have determined is a 9.75 rear. I checked oil level and it was high enough, but has a slight leak from the pinion seal. Everything feels solid but I have nothing to compare it to.
Its on a 2005 Super Cab with the 5.4L 183,000 miles. The front pinion seal was replaced in Feb 2 years ago, by the dealer's mechanic, who may have been a shade tree mechanic.
I am a Youtube Certified Mechanic, as in, I watched about 10 videos of people working on their 9.75 differentials, and realize I don't have all of the tools to do the job, such as a press, or race drivers, or the special gauge.
How many of you have tackled this issue? What did you find? What am I looking at for cost? I am on a very small budget.
I have a 2002 Subaru Outback. The rear right brake light housing cracked, and filled up with water, shorting the bulbs. I thought I was clever in taking the light unit off, draining the water, changing the bulbs, and caulking the crack with silicon. This worked for a while, then the battery died. I couldn't really figure out why - it was a year old, and had no prior issues starting the car. I swapped out the battery for a brand new one, and that seemed to solve the issue for a week. Then the car refused to start all over again. I remembered the brake light, checked it - filled again. So I replaced the unit and the pig electric line, and charge the battery. This seemed to solve the problem, but then the car failed to start after about 3 weeks.
One additional detail is the dial light switch on the driving shaft. One is able to turn this to adjust light settings. Regardless of position, the lights turn off when I turn off the car. However, failure to start seems to be additionally related to the position of this switch; if it's switched all the way back towards the driver the car appears to start consistently for weeks on end, BUT the tail lights fail to turn on in this position (though the brake lights work). Alternatively, dialing the switch all the way away from the driver turns on the tail lights, but seems to be related to battery drain.
I've checked the health of the battery and the contacts - everything checks out. At this point I'm wondering if it's an electrical fault or the alternator.
2004 F-150 XLT.... What the thread size and pitch are on the alternator pulley nut? Cant find a replacement nut anywhere and lost the original!
View 2 RepliesI just replaced my battery and alternator this evening on my 2004 F-150 5.4L. After driving it around a bit, the idle is dropping to about 100 RPM almost to a point of stalling when coming to stop. It slowly creeps back up to a normal idle shortly after.
View 4 RepliesLast night battery light came on. Drove 40 miles home with lights on. Today, it started so I headed out. About 10 miles of battery light on, gauge fluctuating mildly either side of middle, gauge suddenly drops dramatically. I turn around and head back. After a mile or so there's a terrible growling under the hood, sounded like it could be an alternator bearing. Just as I pull over, the noise stops but entire dash goes black. Popped hood, alternator spinning quietly and not hot. I drove back and it started stumbling and surging as the battery died and it finally quit almost all the way back.
I have battery on charger now. I assume the BCM is the regulator by feeding current back to the field? If so could the growling be the BCM feeding back a huge field and the rectifier bridge growing? And the BCM fuse blew because too much current to alternator field coils? Will it start with a charged battery with the BCM dead? I need it to run to get to the parts place. Which fuses do I need to check? Then, how do I check the alternator, wiring, BCM regulator to find original problem?
This monday i found this horrible noise coming from the engine... My first thought was a pulley bearing, yet none of them at the front appeared to be the cause, and standing in front of the bay it sounded like it came from the engine itself (which would be really bad news). Well, i parked the truck until today and i went to check if i could find the cause. I used a mech's stethoscope at the engine and found nothing strange, turned the engine off and touched the pulleys to feel if any was getting hotter than the others... no dice...
Then took the belt off and tried every pulley by hand, all worked ok, yet when i turned the Alternator's it flashed a little spark every now and then (that was just a hint, i wasn't sure). To finally rule out the engine, i turned it on without the belt (that would leave all the pulleys out of the equation). It worked fine and made no strange noises. I cleaned several pulleys and placed the belt back, and turned the engine on once again, this time keeping my attention at the alternator, enough said, it made several spark noises and suddenly, i saw a cap flying of its back. It turned out to be the bearing at the back of the alternator, it was destroyed and losing shrapnel all over, take a look:
Now, need to know what is the part number of the measures of this bearing. (I'll take what's left of the bearing to the store, but i like to be sure of what I'm looking for).
Within three days the alternator and fuse #23 blew. After replacing these and the fuel filter (because of stalling during acceleration), I took it for a diagnostic check at O'Reileys because the stalling while accelerating worsened, it wasn't shifting correctly and the O/D light began flashing on the shifter. It hit on these 13 error codes:
P7055
P0446
P0750
P0443
P0743
P0135
P0141
P0155
P0161
P2195
P2197
P0423
P1747
I have researched each code (definitions, what to examine/test, and the locaton of each part). My question is that with this many hits is it most likely a problem with the PCM, or should I just proceed with checking each connection, wiring and solenoid individually? The EGR Valve tested fine and the alternator is pushing 14.6 v...
My 2007,4.6 is making a whinning noise from the front of the engine around the idler/tensioner/alternator. What I have read it might be a problem with the alternator getting cold, I forgot to mention it's cold up here. Fixed by changing the alternator and did the noise come back as it seems to be a design problem?
View 12 RepliesDriving home my radio quit working. I looked at the gauges and they all dropped to the left. The it looked like my lights quit working and then the truck just quit. All of this happened within 5 miles and 10 minutes. I jumped it and quit before I could even get going, it did start momentarily. Could not even get the gear shift into neutral; had to jump it to get that to happen.
It is 2006 F150 4x4, 5.4L engine and about 95,000 miles.
The battery light came on in my '04 F150 a couple of days ago. Terminals were in need of cleaning, so I took care of that. The next day after driving 50 miles to and from work, the battery light came on again, along with the ABS & Brake light started flashing. After shutting the truck off, it would not start.
Three days later, I have now installed a brand new alternator and battery, only to have the same symptoms pop up about one minute after start up. The warning lights are now accompanied by the passenger airbag light and all engine instruments needle sweep back and forth. Dash lights go dim and bright intermittently as RPM varies.
Do I need old fault codes cleared or is this a PCM issue?
My '08 S.D. (5.4) has a cracked exhaust manifold, which I've heard is fairly common. Crappy Ford design. The local dealer has them in stock (imagine that, just like the 'non-bad' coil caps from some years ago, that they were instructed by Ford to keep at least 10 on stock at all times) for the passenger and driver's side. What are the part numbers?
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