Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Compressor Will Not Communicate With AC Control Head?
Sep 11, 2013
Compressor won't engage and cool. Mechanic checked system and said ac control head is bad and it cost like 800.00. But when I go and search the part they are like 150-200... Did I miss understand what part is called. He said he checked the compressor with a scanner and the compressor will not communicate with the head... said he thinks compressor shorted out the head. He also jumped the compressor but it still would not work.. Any clue what part I should look for?
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Gotta 04 Lariet supercrew F150, leather buckets. How do I get head rests out of seat? I raise em up, squeeze button. Won't come out.
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On my 2004 5.4 I have removed my right cylinder head for replacement. There is a sensor on this head beneath the intake manifold. When removing the sensor I turned the plastic connector about 1/4 turn or less prior to turning the actual sensor. What sensor is this and would I have broken it by this mistake? It did not make a sound, it just turned a little on the base of the sensor.
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I got a Ford f150 and getting the error code P0446 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control. My truck has burnt up 3 of these things already in the last 8 months. Why my truck keeps killing them?
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Have a 2006 F150, head gasket leaking bad. It is the drivers side head. How many hours this job is? and does the engine have to come out or the cab have to come off? Has a 5.4L Engine.
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Same brush is in the cylinder. I lost a cleaning brush in the cylinder head and cant get it out. Im sick to my stomach. I had a small magenta but it wasn't strong enough to get it and any stronger wont fir thru the cylinder taper. Any suggestions besides taking it to a mechanic and pulling the head. Hers is a pic ......
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2004 New Body F150 5.4L
Removed all cops, plugs, intake manifold and driver side head to repair bad valve. Removed Left side cat pipes as well. Had to disconnect most of upper engine harness and had to remove cpm and battery.
Repaired all mechanical issues and reconnected all electrical connectors and now when I turn the key to start the red security light on dash is still blinking steadily and I get no crank no start situation and it blows #34 PCM fuse which is injector/fuel fuse as soon as hit start.
Here are some things I have done trying to trouble shoot.
Battery shows 13.65 V
Unplugged FPDM back on rear frame rail and disconnected far left harness (looking from front) from PCM (should be engine harness), both the smaller plug that plugs into another harness and the main plug to the PCM.
Now when I turn on the key the security light goes out, the dash display says engine fail safe mode and the motor will turn over when I turn the key. This is still with the #34 fuse blown.
If I plug the engine harness back into the PCM, same no click no start.
If I leave engine harness unplugged from PCM and plug FPDM back in and turn key now it goes back to no crank no start and the security light blinks rapidly.
Only way I can get anything to turn over is far left harness disconnected, both plugs and the fdpm disconnected. Display says Engine Fail Safe Mode, and the security light goes out when I turn the key to start. I'm at a standstill as to what to do. The truck started fine prior to me taking it down for service.
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Truck has the EATC system. Blower motor works, blowing 78.5 degrees at the vent. Compressor will not kick on at all. I checked all fuses and they are good. Put gauges on the low and high side, both sides register a constant 70psi, held for 30 minutes with the a/c on max. What the problem is?
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2005 f150 xlt supercrew. Battery dead overnight. New battery installed, and it was drained after a few days use, then an overnight sit. I hooked up my meter as required to check for an amp draw. 5.87a draw. Disconnected alternator, no change. Started pulling fuses. Fuse #107 Power Door Lock(BSM) pulled drops down to 1.04a. Radio power fuse pulled also, drops to .033a. I have had a problem with the 6 disc changer trying to load, read, eject etc so I will be changing out the head unit. I am stumped as to what to try for the 107 fuse though.
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Looking for the wiring diagram for the steering wheel controls for the head unit, mainly which wire is volume. I bought a new head unit for my 04 f150 truck and cant find the wiring diagram online to figure it out. I know there are 3 separate connections.
1 main one for power, gnd, ant, speakers, etc..
1 for the subwoofer if your truck came with it which mine did.
1 for the steering wheel controls if your truck came with it which mine did.
I want to know what the different color wires are connected to on the steering wheel control connection. i have had no luck searching online for about an hour. I know I could buy an adapter but really only want the volume to work and figured if I could just tap into that one wire and connect it to my new head unit.
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I went and fired up my ac today for the first time, and guess what no ac. So I crawl under the truck to check the compressor out, and guess what I find? The stupid face of the compressor had came loose and was sitting between my frame and the steering rack. Just glad it didn't fall off the truck, now I need to put it back on, but what size bolt. Looking for a spare compressor or know the size and length of the bolt?
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Noticed a small whine coming from the A/C compressor? I caught ear of it the other morning when I was putting the trash on the street and the truck was running. It's definitely the A/C because when you cut it off the noise goes away.
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I have a 2007 F150 with a 5.4. I am having an issue with my A/C and more.
Here are the symptoms:
1) A/C doesn't blow cold, at times.
2) Compressor not coming on, according to mechanic.
3) Engine sounds like a freight train, at times. Like on a super cold day and it has to work hard.
4) Very poor fuel mileage since this started.
I took it to a shop, and they said it was the engine cooling fan that would not come on. So I replaced it. Same issue. I then took it back and was told there is a wiring problem. After 3 days they couldn't find it. I needed my truck back and dropped it off again. Then they said it was the A/C compressor, maybe. They wanted to try it and then see what happened. I told them no way.
Temperature, according to the gauge is good. Noise comes and goes. Not dependent on anything. Weather, temperature, car heated up or dead cold. Just comes and goes.
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I went to a local toyota today to have the brake fluid changed and their scantool couldn't communicate with the car.
Now, I wanted to ask a few questions.
1) Is there a separate communication ecu that handles the diagnostics port?
2) Is there a fuse that could have been broken?
To give a few more details, the car is a 2004 gen II prius. It has an lpg system installed. The lpg ecu reads the fuel trims through the diagnostics port all the time.
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I had a loose bulb in my overhead interior light I tightened the bulb and now the gauges quit working the sunroof, rear window, air compressor, windows, radio and airbag warning flashes?? I checked the appropriate fuses in the panel fuses and the 30 amp breaker all good??
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How to add factory cruise to my 2005? I am hoping it is as simple as swapping the steering wheel and having dealer turn on cruise in the PCM.
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My 04 f150 fx4 has some cruise control issues. The cruise doesn't work at all and the self test doesn't do anything on my truck either. I tested the disengage switch which tested good but replaced it anyway. I've checked all brake lights and replaced the 3rd light which was burned out. I've unplugged the brake switch and reconnected in case of loose connection with no luck. I removed the brake switch and tested as follows.
Top to bottom pins 1-6 for sake of this discussion. Pins 1 and 2 no continuity until brake button is pressed. Pins 3 and 4 are blank so no test performed. Pins 5 and 6 tested the same as 1 and 2 so am I correct in saying the switch is good? My truck will shift through all gears and back without ever applying the brakes. Bad shift interlock inside the shift console? I haven't torn into that yet but it's the only thing left I can think of. Is there any tests to be run on it with a multimeter?
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I'm trying to remove the upper control arm on a 2004 F-150 2WD. I took the wheel off, and it looks like I can't get the bolts off that attach to the frame off without taking out the shock and "coil over"? Is this the case, or is there another way to do this?
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I just bought this truck, a 2004 F150 Lariat, 4x4. It is in great shape, but seems to have a problem with the cruise control... I have been reading different things, but one thing I just discovered is that with the key ON, the brake pedal NOT depressed, I can shift the truck into gear. I know that's not right. So am I needing that switch above the brake pedal and will that fix my cruise control as well?
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I'm working on a 04 F150 Fx4, cruise control is not working at all, but I can't seem to find the cruise module under the hood. I haven't worked on this year before so I'm not familiar with the layout under the hood. Also, is there a brake pressure sensor on the 04 (new style) like there is on the '03 and below style? there isn't one on my master cylinder, so where would it be? Where to look? Why the cruise wouldn't be working?
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I have a 2003 F150 4x4. One day my cruise control was working fine and the next it wouldn't work at all. When I push the set button the little green light in the dash blinks on then off and the cruise won't set. Any way that I can check to see what it might be myself or am I going to have to pay a dealer to fix it?
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