I have a 2004 F-150 FX4 and I am getting Code P0012 on an OBD II code reader. This is saying that the cam timing is over retarded. What is the best way to fix this?
View 5 RepliesDriving around today my cel flashed on. Checked my programmer its saying P0022 intake camshaft position timing-over-retarded bank 2. What is the culprit?
View 2 RepliesA week ago I was traveling in my wife's 2009 RX350 at freeways speeds and outside ambient temperatures around 80 degrees. After traveling about 2 hours and stopping for about half-hour for lunch, I started the vehicle and went around a mile and the Check Engine light came on, the VSC was flashing and the traction control indicator was illuminated. I stopped quickly in a gas station and checked the manual for what the warning lights meant. Nothing of any value was found; I filled the car up and headed for home, about 4 more hours at highway speeds. The warning lights stayed on and the VSC flashed the entire way home. The vehicle ran perfectly with no problems at all.
The next morning I started the car and the lights were out. Still worried, I purchased an OBD2 scanner and pulled a P0015 code, Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1). I erased the code and the car has been fine ever since. Finally to the question, is this something I need to worry about? I travel this trip about once a month and don't want to get stranded along the road. The car has 54K on it and if it is a sensor in the engine, it should be covered by the powertrain warranty, but more importantly, will it cause damage to the engine? I read that the camshaft position sensor would only be replaced under warranty if it was inspected and causing a loud ticking noise, which I do not hear. If it throws the same error code again, I will take it in to the dealer and let them look into it.
I have a 2005 f150 5.4 3 valve with the p0012 code the truck runs good has a rough idle not sure if it is worth changing the vct or not the truck has 190000 miles....
View 1 Replies2008 F150 5.4L .. The truck lost all power the other day driving and barely made it to work. On the ride home it was still running horribly, like it just fell on its face. the check engine light came on. Went to autozone and put HEAT in the gas tank cuz the night before it was at quarter tank and temp went from warm to freezing(thought maybe condensation in tank).. Truck ran a lot better( not perfect). Drove around that day and it was fine. Pulled down the driveway and CE light shut off. Ran the code anyways and it was P0012..
Talked to a few mechanics and they said try replacing the Camshaft position sensors..did so and it ran worse. the truck hardly would idle or rev and shook violently..i shut it down right away. Then it threw 9 codes..Cam shaft position- over retarded timing bank 1(P0012), misfire cyl2, misfire cyl3, misfire cyl 4, random misfire, cam sensor bank 1, three of them were repeated codes..
I replaced the sensors back to stock and cleared the codes. the truck is running like it was in the beginning of the problem..No vilant shaking but falling right on its face at idle and any rpm..not drivable. Would rather do the work myself. very capable except for replacing camshaft phasers which i have heard could be the issue..Could it by the VCT seliniod, EGR valve, plugs, wires...Did just change the oil a week ago and cleaned and reoiled air filter.
Just did the timing chain, phasers, oil pump and lash adjusters on my 05 5.4 s-crew. Always had a bit of a rough idle but now it's worse. If the truck idles for an extended period it sets a p0300. Just off idle the misfire is gone. It does seem a touch down on power but otherwise runs great. I did have the plugs out during the work. I cleaned them, applied anti seize and re installed. The previous owner had the plugs and COPs changed 10k miles ago. Plugs are motorcraft and coils are aftermarket.
I monitored with oreillys crappy scan tool and the miss only happens at idle. It is not a dead miss; unplugging COP on each cylinder still makes it worse.
Truck idles warm at like 570 rpm and if I hold my foot on the pedal to raise rpm a bit miss goes away.
Each cylinder is logging misfire counts with no rhyme or reason. The only thing odd during the timing job was 4 spark plugs were partially loose.
I'm sure the timing is correct; I used the OTC crank tool and for timing kit. Truck has 150k, front 02s are fairly new...
I have a 2007 F-150 5.4L and it started throwing codes p0012 p0022 p0345 and would knock and make popping sounds after it warmed up but I could rev it up and it would go away for the most part but would come right back when I started driving it. I have since pulled down the front cover and made sure it was in time, replaced both cam phasers, replaced both vct solenoids, and replaced both cam sensors. Same issue after doing all of that. I have searched the internet and have come up with nothing.
View 3 Replies5.4 3v. my last few weeks have not made me a fan. Here are the details:
I bought a 2008 F150 XL 5.4 3v with a cam phaser knock. Have done other timing jobs in past with no trouble so I was not too afraid to tackle this one. famous last words...opened the motor (shout out to the passenger side valve cover and its designer here) and found semi damaged roller follower on driver side. Worn cam lobe on the corresponding lobe and a loose chain on passenger side. proceeded to :
Change all timing components: phasers, chains, tensioners crank sprocket, all applicable bolts and BOTH cams as well as all lash adjusters and roller followers. most looked fine in fact all really did with a bit of wear on a few roller followers but only one bad one. engine didn't look to bad pretty clean.
Double and triple checked my timing chains and it was spot on. dark link on spot on crank, two dark links on the L and R dead on. put it back together. oh yes, changed all plugs with motorcraft ones, didn't even break one. did not change vct solenoids because I falsely assumed I could change the later easily if needed. they looked ok. screens intact etc... silly me for not realizing how kind Ford was in 2007 and later to necessitate removal of valve cover. I was reading a previous one on the how tos and assumed later models would be the same since it was the same sensor...
Cranked truck ran great. I mean perfect. sounded perfect. ran like a scalded cat. till it got to hot idle then it started doing its thing. rattle shake till you revved it. ran fine just wouldn't hot idle fine especially in reverse or under slight load. replaced driver side vct since ford only had one and I started on the easy side ordered the other one waiting for it. seemed to improve dramatically meanwhile I am driving this truck to test it. I drove it to work 50 miles each way and it ran great.
After a few trips it popped the P0420 light, seemed to run ok, cleared it watched it wouldn't come back. O2 sensor did seem to imply a bad cat on bank 1 since it seemed sensor two was mimicking sensor one and not staying stead like the other bank. still ran fine,
So I decided to check back pressure on the cat. I pulled sensor one out of bank one (really a joyously tight squeeze in there) hooked up my gauge and got 0 back pressure. revved it and all nothing. hooked sensor back up pulled truck out of shop and it commenced to running like crap. I mean bad. running worse than before I got it. Popping P0012 code continuously, and tons of misfire codes associated with bank 1 ..cyl 3 etc.. I tried swapping coils, pulled coils and checked spark with a tester and firing away looks like tons of good spark.
Now the weird part is : looks like bank one is dead. I can unhook any coil pack and/or injector and it runs the same and sounds like it is missing. if I unhook one off of bank 2 it almost dies or does. so bank 2 seems to be running fine. it will start and run but sounds like it missing sets flashing check engine light and backfires and stalls like crazy. I even second guessed my pressure gauge and unhooked exhaust manifold from pipe and it sounds even prettier when it backfires out of there but no change. I pulled cam sensors and cleaned it again and even tried swapping them since they looked identical but no change so I put them back.
Now I can only surmise that I am out of time somehow? or I have a gremlin perhaps? I like working on cars (usually) but this one is getting old. how do I verify what is wrong. if it is timing related how do I verify that now definitively once my marks moved I really cant figure out how to tell if it is in time? Since it has all new parts and they all ran beautifully till now. could it possibly be the vct solenoid doing all this? I plan on changing it when it comes in but surely it cant cause this many problems.. I unhooked it no change, and it does it at a cold idle and any rpm. really runs worse at idle but bad at any rpm.
My daughters 2004 f150 5.4 3v. 130k miles. Had a broken timing chain guide on passenger side. Changed phasers, solenoids, timing chains, crank gear, tensioners, and oil pump. Pulled pan and cleaned it and the pickup tube of pieces of the old guide. Engine had zero sludge. Very clean inside.
Put it all back together. Left crank sensor unplugged to rotate engine until it had good oil pressure which only took a few seconds. Plugged sensor back in. Truck started right up. Runs perfect. Drove perfect. Idles with no noise. But as soon as I rev it up a little, there is a HORRENDOUS squealing from the lower left of the engine. Pulled serpentine belt and squealing is still there. Used a stethoscope to determine its in the lower left behind the timing cover.
I haven't pulled the cover back off yet but what this could be? Everything went back together fine so I can't imagine what it is.
HOWEVER, I did notice that my new tensioners only had an oil hole in one of them. The two I removed both had an oil hole. So one of the new tensioners does not have an oil hole in the center of the plunger. I see online, that many did not come with an oil hole. But I'm wondering if this could be the source of the squealing? Maybe not oiling the chain enough and the squeal that I hear is the chain on the plastic guide?
I'm working on an 05 with a 5.4. I got it with a bad valvetrain noise on the PS, which ended up being a bad cam, and one bad rocker. I changed the bad rocker and any others that showed any wear, the cam, and all 12 lifters on that head.
The truck starts, idles, runs, and drives fine; identical to my own 05. But if I get on it, it has a dead spot around 3-4k rpm, then picks right up again. After a while, I get the p0012 (Variable camshaft timing over-retarded bank 1). After I get it pissed off, the idle gets rough as well and bogs down.
Now I know the cam went it correctly. I used the wedge tool so the phaser never left the timing chain. I marked the chain as well just to be safe, and the phaser only goes on the cam in one position. Also, it idles too nicely, and runs fine under normal acceleration.
Tonight I swapped the VCT solenoids from one side to the other. It took a lot longer to get the code, but finally came up as a freeze frame dtc, and on Bank 1 again, so it's not the solenoid.
So in my mind, all I can think is that the timing chain jumped (which I don't think is likely due to the good running under normal conditions), or the phaser is bad/sticking on Bank 1. I popped off the oil fill tube and the phaser looks fine physically, so I don't think I banged into it somewhere along the line. I also manually excited the Bank 1 solenoid by grounding the purple wire, and it gives my the same rough idle which I get after the p0012.
It looks like the phaser to me. Another mistake I made was not scanning the truck when I first got it. It came right from a repair shop which diagnosed the camshaft, but I would have at least known if they cleared any codes from it.
I am getting a poo12 code on my 2007 hyundai accent. All the sensors seem to be fine. How to get it fixed?
View 9 RepliesI have been looking for a reason for the P0012 DTC code and was looking for the VVTi Oil control valve & filter. I cannot see where it is on the engine.
View 3 RepliesI have a ES 350 and my check engine light is on along with the check VSC and the slippery when wet side. I took it to Toyota and they stated cam timing oil control vaule P0012. Question how serious is this? How long can I drive before anymore problems? It has 107k miles...
View 2 RepliesI have an '09 LS SWB AWD with 86k miles on it. A few days ago the check engine light came on with a message on the dash for me to check the VSC system. The next day the check engine light and VSC warning went away on their own. A day after that they came back on. I pulled the ODB codes and got the following:
P0012 - "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded Bank 1
I took it to my local Lexus dealership and they determined that my VVT-i motor assembly needed replacing. Total cost would be $1,222. Apparently this part regulate the camshaft for variable valve timing. I asked if I should notice a performance dropoff since it's related to valve timing but they said no. They said I wouldn't make it worse by driving it so I took my car back and they would order the part for me.
The next day the check engine light and VSC warning went away on their own again and have not come back on for 3 days now. I don't understand why the warning and check engine lights keep going off on their own if this motor assembly needs replacing. Once again it has been 3 days now and no lights have come on.
I have a new style 2004 F150 XLT supercrew with a 4.6. Well, I just hit 300,00 miles earlier this week. The truck has performed pretty much flawlessly over the years (and still does). I've replaced front hubs, IWE's, brakes, fluids, etc, but have NEVER opened up the engine. Is it time to replace the timing chain?
First thought is ,yes, like 50,000 miles ago, but... It has some dents and dings and the rust is getting to it. There is 300,000 on the transmission also... Virtually no residual value- If it strands me on the road, it's time for a new truck.
On the other hand, it only burns a little over a quart at 3000 mile change intervals, the transmission seems strong. I just shampooed the cloth interior and detailed it. The thing looks great from the vantage point of the steering wheel.
No engine issues at all- no rattling, etc.
I changed the timing chain, phasers, tensioners, guides, and cam sensors and solenoids about 30k miles ago. Truck now has 170k miles. This past weekend engine started running so rough, it had the whole front end shaking. Threw 8 codes..1 bank..lean, bank 2 rich, timing retarded, cylinder G and F misfire, and more codes. It seems to have jumped timing pretty bad.
View 1 RepliesSo working on a 2005 F150 with a 5.4. Started off as a phaser replacement. Turn out the passenger side timing chain guide was badly damaged. Front timing chain cover came off and replaced the guide and phaser. Got everything back together and it ran rough. Pulled the front timing cover off and the passenger side was off a tooth.
Retimed that passenger side and also replaced the tensioner because the seal on the old tensioner wasn't the best. Now rotating the engine, i noticed the tensioner pushes then retracts. Seems like a vacuum is created pulling the plunger in, but not entirely sure. Only the passenger side does this, not the drivers side.
Worried about putting the front cover and valve covers on, buttoning everything together and having it skip another tooth because of slack in the chain. Any fix for it or reason why it does it?
After timing belt change code P0016 with Check engine light trac off and VSC light on.
Put on the entire kit...timing belt,tensioner, idler, and water pump. When I took it apart to put the new cam crank sensor I inspected everything and all looked good.
Changed the sensor and reset code, a few hours later back on. Car seems to run fine. I didn't think the sensor was bad. Car was running great...just due for timing belt.
Just got 2005 screw fx4. Seemed to run ok 115000 mi.Had exhaust leak,I put on 3" cat back on. Then I noticed tapping at front of the engine.Turns out tim. chain guides are broken. looks like very common prob after reading many forum/threads. Anyway got timing chain kit, phasers, selinoids. Truck runs and sounds great.But so far had truck back 2weeks stalled 2x at idle.What next??
View 14 RepliesHad the stem seals replaced on my 2004 toyota camry 4 cylinder (2az-fe engine). The job went quickly and the realigned both camshaft marks to the respective yellow link and #1 and #2 bearing marks per the manual. However, now getting a P0016 error indicating timing is a bit off. It is difficult to verify that the top camshafts are aligned correctly to the crankshaft without taking off the side cover. Doing that is a 6 hour job and requires an engine lift.
Is there any easier, surefire way to check and adjust the timing on this engine without having to take off the side cover? It is probably just a tooth off since it is running well.
The attached pictures show how it was aligned before buttoning up.
Alright, so I was driving along and everything was fine, I had no error lights and the car was running perfectly. I accidentally went over a lip of this parking lot a little too fast and all of a sudden the check engine light came on!!! I took it to Jiffy Lube and the codes I got were : c1253, c1311, p0011, and p0012. Is my car safe to drive tomarrow? Are these super expensive to fix? Could they have been set off from the curb?
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