Recently when I leave my driveway which only has a slight grade to it my truck makes a clunking sound when I hit the gutter and while turning slightly. Also my front drive line from transfer case to front axle has some play in it. I can rotate the front drive line about 3/4" to an 1" while parked in the driveway. Changing u joints. I figured this would be a good starting point. 2005 XLT 4x4 5.4L F150.
View 8 RepliesReversing into the garage tonight and adjusting the steering slightly back and forth (between quarter to and five to the hour) i head a 'clunk, clunk, clunk'.....did it the other way - same noise... Drove forward at very low speed and did same turn slightly either way...heard same clunking noises....
View 19 RepliesI have a 2004 2WD supercab. And am hearing a 'clunking' sound when I turn almost full-lock. Below is a summary of what I have experienced so far:
- My truck used to be lowered 2" (below stock) at the front since new. Last month I lifted it (front and rear) and it now sits 2" above stock on new rancho shocks.
- I installed a camber kit and had the front aligned (toe and camber) after the above suspension work.
- The truck drove beautifully for two weeks until one day a 'clunking' sound was heard from the front-left every time I turned left. The alignment also changed as I had to now hold the steering very slightly to the left to drive straight.
- The alignment shop re-did the toe tracking (the camber did not change) and the truck drove great for about a day. Now I can hear the same clunking sound when I turn right and the tracking is again screwed up meaning I need to hold the steering very slightly to the right to drive straight.
What parts are playing up and what may need replacing?
When going around 48mph clunking sound comes from rear end. seems like it does that when you are trying to maintain that speed. Also have had 7 window regulators to go bad on have 1 working window 4 bad now replaced the same one 3 times. Called Ford they said no complaints have come in about the window issue on 2004 trucks...
View 1 RepliesJust bought an 05 yesterday. It has 193k. The steering seems to have some play and an occasional clunking sound when turning the wheel. I do not know of a dealer or an independent shop that will give me an honest opinion or quote..
View 2 RepliesBought an 05 FX4 SuperCab in May - been in shop twice for a "clunking" sound when accelerating from a dead stop. Dealer says it's "operating as intended" and that no damage was being if I continue to drive. I thought it was a rear problem with the limited slip. Dealer says it's the tranny and that Ford is looking into the problem (apparently quite a few are coming back). She runs smooth and shifts fine once she gets going. Just starting from a complete stop feels painfully wrong.
View 14 RepliesI've got a 2008 Saab 93 TurboX AWD, 6sp manual. It's got about 40k miles and I just had my front right wheel bearing replaced in November. The clunking sound started probably 2 months ago and it started off very subtle but has now progressed to being audible even over the radio. It occurs typically at any speed and is independent of RPM and/or braking. I can feel it slightly in the steering wheel but nothing significant. It sounds like a low clunking/flapping and occurs during deceleration as well. I hear it particularly in the front center to front right of the car. It kind of sounds like a golf ball rolling around in a cardboard box if you can imagine that.
I've had a Saab specialist look at it and they've tightened the suspension and inspected for loose parts in the engine compartment as well as the wheel wells and springs were all in good condition.
I have a 2004 F-150 STX 2WD with a 2.5" leveling kit on it. I recently have noticed a rubbing sound that can be felt in the steering wheel and gas pedal the instant you turn right. I just replaced both hub assemblies and I just really don't know what it could be. It doesn't happen when you turn left or go straight and there should be no reason as to why my tires rub, because they haven't before. I got my truck aligned and they checked my joints and everything and said that it was fine....
View 13 RepliesMy 2011 elantra started making a sound when I turn all the way to the right and slightly again once you release the wheel. It pretty much sounds like a rusty coil being stretched to it's limit. It happens while driving and turning right as well as when the car is not in motion and turning the wheel all the way to the right. Not sure what it could be.
View 21 RepliesSo i have been noticing a lugging/clunking sound when accelerating from turning.
I say it sounds like that because its almost like when a noob driving is trying to shift and stalls for not giving enough gas. but this is comming from the back and for the longest i thought it was due to the ESP kicking in but i been driving quite calm lately due to blow shocks.
I wish I could get a sound clip but its only when driving. Is that normal? Prolly not but hear something when it engages? I am on a OEM haldex controller atm.
So my 09' Camry now has 130K KMs on it and for the last few months I've had an issue where when I turn the steering wheel (at rest and while moving) there is a clunking sound and feel in the steering wheel at various spots in the steering wheel rotation.
I'm worried the u-joints (if it uses them) in the steering column are worn out and might need replacing/lubricating but I'm not sure how to address the issue without an expensive Out of warranty visit to the dealer.
I have the most terrible clunking/rubbing sound on my right passenger side, especially when I'm turning left. When I drive straight it sounds like the wheel is hopping even when going over minuscule imperfections in the road. I also get a terrible rub when going over speed bumps or into grooves and dips in the road.
I've searched and searched but cannot come up with a answer towards rectifying the issue. My car hasn't been lowered; I'm running the stop 337 suspension. I've replaced the following within the past two years:
-control arm bushings
-ball joints
-tie rod ends
-upper strut bushings and bearings
-passenger side axle
-dog bone mount
-engine mount
-tranny mount
Most recently:
-front struts
-sway bar end-links
-driver's side axle
It seems to like everything should be solid considering I've done all of this crap. I don't understand why I'm having this issue and why it sounds like it is getting worse and worse.
I have a 2007 an at about 52mph the truck has a slight but irritating bounce (up an down) an after a while sickening. It maybe felt it was coming from the rear. So I had the rear tires balanced an the guy said my right rear tire had a bend to it. Well assuming that the balancing fixed the problem it did not. So I'm going to put on the spare to see if it still bounces what else should I do?
View 14 RepliesI bought a '05 F-150 with a 5.4 with 112k miles on it a few months ago. It had been sold from an auction, looked really clean, and a good price. Not long afterward it started having issues with running rough at idle. That's when I found this forum and began reading. Tried different things but it only got worse and finally had a shop look at it. Cam phasers were not doing well. Not a cheap fix but more involved engine work than I had ever done so I had them do the work.
It ran fine for a few days and then the idle rumble came back slightly and the check engine light (CEL) came on. I read the code and it came back with a number that indicated air flow was an issue. Internet search said to clean the throttle body. Some threads on this site also said do the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor while I was at it. Much has changed since I used to work on cars as a kid. Everything has it own cleaner. I cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner. Cleaned the throttle body with throttle body cleaner (it was beyond filthy) and a toothbrush. Put it all back together (started late and it was dark by now) and took it for a quick run to see how it had improved. Instead of smooth, it started running even rougher, and within 100 yards went into fail safe mode. Now my mood is getting darker. Park it and go inside to watch the Aggies in their bowl game.
Good game but the truck is still running rough and I am losing confidence in my ability to do simpler things on it. I get up the next day and run codes on it. It had three codes all pertaining to air flow or the throttle position. I am thinking I screwed up the throttle setting somehow when cleaning or maybe only put the MAF sensor in upside down (that seemed unlikely since the screws only seemed to line up in one orientation). So I open the hood to check the MAF sensor just in case and find to my embarrassment that, in the dark, I failed to plug the MAF sensor back in. The problem was a loose screw holding the tools. I plug the sensor cable onto the sensor and take it for a ride. It runs great. Life is good. MPG is climbing higher on the onboard display. My confidence is returning even after humbling mistakes. After everything, I still love this truck.
So, now for the tune-up advice. The truck runs well but still rumbles slightly. Based upon everything, I believe it was well cleaned before it sold but maybe not fully serviced. Spark plugs were possibly never done. I intend to do a tune-up on it but do not know what has already been done so I'll assume almost nothing. The air filter looks brand new. The serpentine belt has nicks so that will be on the list. I am thinking of changing the following:
Spark plugs
Spark plug boots
fuel filter
serpentine belt
PCV valve
Oil was changed when the cam phaser work was done. So the advice really boils down to a question:
Is there anything else I should consider changing or doing or cleaning? I have not worked on cars much in the last 30 years but am beginning to enjoy it again.
Ok, I have a 2006 Ford f-150 5.4L engine. it has 88000 miles on it. Here recently it has started acting up on me. It starts shaking violently when I slightly accelerate going up hills at any speed. On level ground it doesn't do it. Going down hill it doesn't do it. When stopped it doesn't idle rough.
It does this shaking when I barely press the gas. When it starts I either let off the gas or I push the gas to the floor and it stops. What is going on? This is the first Ford I have ever known. I don't know anything about these vehicles. I have read it might be the coils and plugs but then people have told me it might be the torque converter.
I noticed a slightly rough ride around 70-80 mph sometimes on interstate a month back but thought it was my scalloped tires that need replacing and ignored it. Last weekend i had to go to MI from GA pulling a small enclosed tandem axle trailer (6x12). I started after work and made it to VA before stopping for the night with no problems not even at 70-80. Fueled up first thing in the morning (BP Fuel) and headed farther into the mountains when the truck started shaking when it should be downshifting (into overdrive I am guessing?)
No check engine light come on so i pulled off the road checked rear end and motor oil everything was fine, topped off tranny which was slightly low but was on dipstick .I let the truck cool for 20 min then got back going again. I continued driving with overdrive off, and not on the truck. Every time it had to downshift under hill climb it would start shaking but i would let out of the gas and it would stop. Once i got out of the mountains it was fine and couldnt tell it was running bad at low rpms, and also drove fine when i got off the interstate for fuel driving in towns.
I drove that whole day through ohio mich and back trough ohio when entering kentucky. It started to downshift and run at high rpms with no problem, and started acting up when i got back into the mountains.When the truck would go to downshift it started to shake uncontrollably again. then is when the check engine light come on and flashed. I babied in until tenn when i stopped at oriellys to hook up to scanner. scanner read misfire on 5 and ignition coil d primary secondary circuit malfunction. I checked the #5 plug (fine) and replaced the #4 coil, and didn't check the #4 plug.
t kept going and it never fixed the problem. stopped and jumped my coils around and check a few more plugs which all were fine but never that #4 (why idk), after being fed up, sat night, no mechanics around and wanting to get home i drove it the rest of the way. it never idled rough until i got almost home in Ga. When i got home the next day i pulled all plugs and all looked brand new still except the #4 which had the whole prong and tip completely burnt off. I replaced it and nothing changed, but my exhaust sounded restricted. Brought to a shop and it is now reading a misfire on 4 (with brand new plug) 5 7 and 8 and also saying it is running lean. They changed fuel filter and plugs but nothing still.
2004, f150, 4.6, 4x4, stx, short wheel base, 3:55
2004 Escape 2wd 6 cylinder 170k miles. Intermittent clunk/rattle sound when hitting bumps while going straight and especially turning right. I felt a slight bumping in passenger side floor board. Inspected everything. All looks good and tight- no signs of loose hardware, worn ball joints or tie rods. Only thing I noticed was a slight rub mark (missing paint) on the lower control arm under the sway bar on drivers side. And noticed the rear bushings on the control arms are tearing.
Not collapsing but with the tire removed and suspension hanging at full droop you can see tears in that rear bushing on both sides. We painted the arm and sway bar in the rubbing location to see if it makes a mark there again after driving it a few days. Question is do you think that the rear control arm bushings could be allowing enough movement to contact the sway bar or make the noise? The bolts are tight. Has newer Moog struts and newer swaybar end bushings, possibly sway bar hold down bushings too- (they look pretty good).
My outback has 57k miles on it and already needs the front struts and rack replaced (diagnosed today at the Subaru dealership). The car has been making a whining noise in the engine and has been clunking when making turns for the past week. I have also noticed it hasn't been taking bumps as smoothly. They told me that both ends of the rack are leaking and both front struts are leaking. My husband did admit to hitting the curb on the driver side front tire pretty hard while making a u-turn about a month ago, but all other driving is pretty standard. Yes, we drive on dirt roads in the mountains a few times a year for hiking, but don't drive in a manner that I consider wrong. Did the u-turn incident cause this? (hard to believe that would affect both sides of the rack and struts).
View 2 RepliesWhen driving my 2006 F150 it drives real smooth until I hit 50, then it feels like I'm driving on a slightly bumpy road, once I hit 55, smooths out again. Only drives strange at 50 mph. Other speeds smooth as glass.
View 3 Replies2006 F150 FX4 5.4L, 118k miles... At highway speeds (45-50) and (55-60) as I am slightly accelerating it feels like the transmission or maybe ignition system is skipping a beat. Kind of feels like a small bump. I replaced spark plugs with motocraft about 35K miles ago and recently all transmission fluid via cooler line. Had some concerns about system flush so I just drained and refilled entire system via cooler lines. I have read that it could be my COP's ...
View 7 RepliesI picked up my 2005 F150 4x4 last winter. It has 135k miles & a slight tranny problem.
When cruising around 45 mph - right between where it wants to be in top gear or not - if I slightly accelerate the trans BANGS between the two gears.
I mean repeatedly bangs - it is not a smooth shift where it can't decide which gear to use - it is a hard BANG where it can't decide which gear to be in.
What gives? I can usually stop it if I turn on the towing button - shutting off high gear.