Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Checking Oil Pressure With Blown Tensioner Seal?
Aug 14, 2017
Do the tensioners have an O-ring where they mount to the block? I read a lot about blown tensioner seals...are people talking about the block to tensioner seal or the internal seal between tensioner body and plunger?
Also of course it makes sense to check oil pressure first with real gauge, but if the tensioner seals are toast, then one doesn't really get a good reading until they are replaced.
My dad has an 04 with 90k miles..throwing cam timing codes and you can hear the timing chains stupid noisy at idle. This just happened rather abruptly. Not like the engine oil pressure has been slowly going down due to wear, but like a tensioner seal has finally let go or possibly a guide.
I am thinking about checking the oil pressure before buying the timing components but then realized one truly doesn't know if the low oil pressure is due to blown seal or increased tolerances.
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
Have a 2004 F350 dually diesel 6.0 - will now be replacing the passenger rear wheel seal for the third time in 8 months - replaced 12/2014 again in 6/2015 - took in for extensive engine pairs 7/8 got back 8/27 and have to replace the wheel seal again. Cannot figure out why blowing out so often - what to do to stop it from blowing out? Called the dealer and they were absolutely no support at all - mentioned something about a thicker seal?
View 10 Replies
The check engine light popped up and I assumed it was due to my exhaust because my engine runs great and I have no fluid loss. However I got an error 03:0. I decided to clear it and see if it pops up again. Well. when I went to reset the code, the meter fuse blew. It took out most of my dash board gages and my car was stuck in 3rd or 4th gear. I changed the fuse and it blew again 3 more times. Ended up doing the unwise thing of putting a 15a fuse in until I solve the issue. I didn't see any pins touching on the ODB port, so I am baffled why it keep blowing now.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2008 F-150 with a 4.6. I have a sequel and I believe it is the belt tensioner pulley and / or the idler pulley above it. Looking for proper procedure to change one or both. It is pretty tight in there. How much stuff do I have to remove to get in there. Should I replace both pulleys at the same time.
View 2 Replies
My 2007,4.6 is making a whinning noise from the front of the engine around the idler/tensioner/alternator. What I have read it might be a problem with the alternator getting cold, I forgot to mention it's cold up here. Fixed by changing the alternator and did the noise come back as it seems to be a design problem?
View 12 Replies
I found that my transmission was low on oil but couldn't find a leak. What I did find is that the seal in the transfer case was letting trans fluid transfer into it and then it would leak out the out put seal. I purchased the new seal and gasket and repaired it myself in about 3 hours. I removed the rear drive shaft and removed the front drive shaft from the transfer case alone or you can take it out completely if you want.
Drained transfer case unplugged wiring and one vacuum line. Unbloted from trans and removed using trans jack. The bolts are not the easiest to get to. i used a 3/8 ratchet to break them loose then used a stubby 3/8 to get them out because they are around 2 inches long. Once down I had to jack up the truck to get it out from under it. I removed the old seal and installed new one cleaned everything up and installed with a new gasket.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2004 Lariat 4x4 with a no start condition. I had lights, but it wouldn't crank. I then discovered that it would not shift out of park. Turns out that it had a blown fuse. I did not have any of that type (the funky square 20a fuses) so I pulled the heated seats fuse (30a) and threw it in there, tried to start it and blew it right away. Is there a common short to look for on these? I believe that the guy that owned it before me had a satellite radio in it, and could it be a bare wire from that setup possibly blowing the fuse?Just trying to get a head start on tracking down the short.
View 14 Replies
I have a leveled out 2006 f150. The issue I am having is i have replaced my rear output seal 3 different times the last time only lasted about 4 months before it started to leak again. What is causing this or how I can fix the problem?
View 3 Replies
2004 F-150 XLT, 3rd brake light bulb has blown and the bulb holder is brittle and the clip that holds the bulb in the holder on each side have broken off. Is there a way I can replace the holder itself or do I have to buy a whole new 3rd brake light wire harness?
View 5 Replies
This is very weird. A strange noise occurs intermittently. It sort of sounds like a pulley slipping on a steel shaft briefly followed by a brief rattling noise and may or may not blow out fuse number 14 (A/C Pressure switch, backup lamp and daytime running lights, redundant speed control heated pcv, ABS, Reverse park aid, EC Mirror), then the brake light and the ABS light is displayed and the cruise control quits working. It does not ALWAYS blow out the fuse as I discovered yesterday.
The first time it happened (about three months ago) I was doing 75 when it happened and was unable to figure out what it was. Yesterday it happened and I new it was fuse number 14. I replaced the fuse and it happened again within 3 minutes. It may be when I turn the wheel to the left. The first time it happened I was changing lanes, yesterday when it happened I was on a ramp turning to the left. In the driveway it happened as a backed up and turned the wheel to the left. I cannot identify where the noise comes from. After the noise and the blown fuse the truck runs just fine and I can continue to drive.
View 5 Replies
I am looking for info regarding motor swap. I blew the motor in my truck a couple weeks ago (5.4L Triton). She froze solid going down the HWY pulling my boat. I purchased a motor from a wrecking yard with~ 70k miles on it. I decided to do the swap myself and have run into a dilemma. In order to un-mate the trans from the motor the torque converter nuts need to be removed. There is an access port where you access the nuts one at a time. You must roll the engine over to bring each nut into view. This is where I am stuck. The motor is seized solid and will not turn over by hand even with a socket and a cheater bar on the main crank pulley. Do I need to remove the oil pan and/or the heads to figure out how it's stuck (pretty sure it ate a valve)?
View 1 Replies
My 2007 F150's turn signals and hazard lights quit working. I checked the fuse and it was blown. Once I pulled the old fuse out the truck wouldn't start at all. What happened?
View 3 Replies
I recently had my rear axle seals replaced due to leaking. Does the rear diff fluid get replaced on that repair since the rear diff cover comes off? Trying to figure out when my next interval for changing rear diff fluid should be.
View 1 Replies
I have an 02 Excursion, V10. It has the extension brake switch harness, with the fuses. I had a blown 2a fuse. I have a brake pressure switch, that is still open. Any better approach to the redundant switch. If not, I would like to know an updated switch part #, and is there any reason I could use key run, for the battery? Using a Bosch relay coils thru the switch, then battery to the cruise servo?
View 9 Replies
My 2004 f 150 heritage 4.6 l the oil pressure dropped all the way down i was in a drive thru and it was clattering really bad so i pulled into the parking lot and shut it down pulled the stick plenty of oil i re started about 30 minutes later and it pumped oil pressure. So I started on my way home the gauge would go to normal and when I would touch the brakes and let off the gas it would drop and the oil light would come on and the engine would start rattling and would have no power, I would pull over and do it over again and finally i just called a tow truck.
So I changed the oil new motorcraft filter and 5/30 motor oil , it started up made all kind of noise but i got oil pressure and quieted down i went to drive it and as soon as it started to roll the pressure dropped and the oil light came on and it started to rattle again. Whats happening is the pump going out ? can it be replaced with out pulling the engine? the truck has 200,000 miles on it
View 4 Replies
i have a 2005 F150 5.4L while driving my message board bell indicated low oil pressure i pulled into the station and checked oil. i had to add about 2 qts i filled up with gas and the truck has not started since. I towed it home changed the oil, filter, oil pressure sensor and the fuel filter
when i try to start it the engine turns over normal no noises, knocking or anything out of the ordinary. It sounds like it wants to start but then acts like something is shutting the fuel pump down. I had the local mechanic tell me that the fuel pump was out. I can here the fuel pump kick on for no more than 2 seconds then shuts off. he told me it should pump for about 5 to 10 seconds. i am not convinced it is the fuel pump dont want to spend $300 on something i dont need.
is there a saftey cut off swith to the fuel pump when the low oil pressure indicator comes on? i also check the codes and its not giving any codes but i had removed the battery and replaced it and i am thinking that removed the codes?
View 7 Replies
Is there a port I can hook a mechanical oil pressure gauge to for checking my oil pressure.
View 6 Replies
2004 Lariat. Ford F150, 5.4 Triton. Whenever I slow down, stop, or turn my truck will read low oil pressure, then all my gauges drops and it stalls out. I've taken it to my mechanic twice now. And twice he's replaced two sensors. Today I took it to Wal-Mart for an oil change and they said its probably why my check engine light is on code, T19. I've had that light on for 4 years now and this stalling out problem starts 3 months ago. So far its had regular oil changes, new air filter, two new sensors and im scraping money to throw at it. Hitting snow banks, other vehicles, and tree's... need to find the real problem before I go broke or worst kill someone in an accident.
View 1 Replies
I upgraded my 2007 f150 xl from 17" hankook tires to 18" michelins....problem is the low tire pressure light has come on and wont go off....Ive checked the tire pressure and all are equal... how to turn this light off, or what may be the problem?
View 14 Replies
I have been having quite a rough time fixing a P0345 code on my 06 F-150 w/5.4 w/85,000. This truck has gone to a Ford dealer every 5K for the oil change/checkup etc.
Long and short - P0345 Code @ approx 83,500 miles, rough idle once the engine was up to temp and it would clear if you bumped the skinny pedal.
I have replaced the following:
--Both Cam Phasers
--Both VCT Solenoids (they both had holes in the screens - see this post [URL] ....
--Passenger side Cam Position sensor (I broke it pulling it out to do phaser swap)
--Spark plugs - SP515's
Issue was still present so then I replaced:
--Complete Timing chain set (Chains,Gear, Guides and Tensioners) - Drivers (left) side tensioner collapsed.
Once all back together and running the code is still there so I finally installed a REAL electric oil pressure gauge. Turns out I only have about 15psi at hot idle and 50psi when driving etc.
I am at wits end, because at this point I would have to guess that the engine is junk... Either a bearing is shot or whatever... Do I take the 3-4 hours to drop the pan to potentially see what is going on? Or just drop some 15W40 in the engine and trade it in?
View 4 Replies
I have a 2007 F150 Screw lariat and have swapped the factory 20" wheels for a set of18" FX4 wheels. Question is how do i get the light on the dash to go off?? I swapped these tires and wheels 2 weeks ago and never got a light.. now tonight I get a light? I don't know if the 18" have pressure sensors in them or not..Wouldn't I have gotten a light right away?
View 1 Replies
