so i had a litle fun in the clay today ..and now my trucks check engine lights on ..i have a code reader im running a P0172 P01275 P2106 Ive cleaned the MAF and changed my air filter...still running the three codes afterwords no trouble with turning over starts right up and drives with a normal amount of power....its a 2004 5.4L V8 ...
View 12 RepliesFirst off its a 2006 F150 king ranch with the intercooled roush kit and roush tune. Last couple weeks its progressed from a slight stumble on start up, to now after its been off for a few hours it may start and run rough for a second, or, it may start then die, and then have to crank for at least 5 seconds before it starts. After it starts it seems to run fine. I've thrown the P0172 and P0175 code a few times. I downloaded the torque android app and did some data logging. Can you learn anything from the long term fuel trim?
View 9 RepliesMy son just left. We scanned his truck and got these codes.
P0172 Bank 1 rich P0300 random misfires P0303 cylinder 3 misfires.
I used the Torque APP Pro to check these codes. I went to live readings in the Torque APP and saw some readings for Long term and Short term bank 1 Readings.
They are all "greek" to me, and I don't recall what they were, but could get those readings tomorrow.
When I have done searches combining these codes together, I see changing spark plugs. P0172 alone gets me a different train of thought. Mainly CAT issues.
Also, his cranking to start is quite long. (A lot longer than my 6.0L would ever think of cranking) At least nearly 30 seconds of cranking. We are leaning toward first just changing #3 plug.
Well my p2106 code seems to be different from all the other ones Ive read. I get the p2106 code after the truck goes into "FAILSAFE MODE" and it only goes into failsafe mode the moment the truck reaches 40mph and then loses all its power. I turn the truck off and back on and its back to normal until I go 40mph again. I scan it and only get one code p2106. The truck idles and runs perfectly until it reaches 40mph! I've replaced the entire throttle body with a new one from ford and it keeps doing the same thing. I don't want to keep buying electronic parts as they are not returnable. My truck is a 2005 Expedition with 72k miles on it
View 1 RepliesI just got an Egde Evo which I installed and everything looked great. After a few runs, I noticed the ABS light coming on an soon after that my transmission goes to limp mode (the wrench lights up).
I receive the DTC error: P2106 on the Edge Evo.
I have gone back to Factory default, but it keeps coming back, ie. the ABS light lights up and the Trans goes to Forced Limited Power (according to the Evo).
I have a 2005 F150 Fx4 5.4 that keeps throwing a p0172 code. I've replaced all spark plugs, C.O.P's, fuel injectors, Mass airflow sensor, 1 o2 sensor, checked all vac lines and there ok.
View 2 RepliesI just bought a 2007 f250 5.4 V8. It has the codes P0018, P061b, and P2106. The truck seems to run fine but has the codes. Tried clearing but they came back. Also, there's a small howl sound in the rear end. What a solution may be.
View 14 RepliesI have been having this same problem over and over again. Check engine light comes on with P2127 and P2106 codes. 1st time they said they needed to flash the computer. Worked fine for maybe 6 months and then again. While this is happening you cant go over 2500 rmp with it floored and takes forever to get up to 60-80 kph which is the fastest it will go. Sometimes after starting stopping 5-8 times it will be fine. The second time they replaced the gas pedal because the sensor was deemed bad. Now about 8 months later here up it comes again. This time I was pulling my boat and I thought I wasn't going to make it up the hill. I don't trust this car anymore especially for long trips. So anyway they updated the computer again, and then 4 days later up it comes again. Also inner tie rod ends I have replaced 3, just so you know I only have 52000 kms on this 2008.
View 10 Replies2003 f150 5.4, 4x4 ... Truck is shaking pretty bad, idle bounces between 500 and 750, and its throwing p0172 (rich on bank 1), P0174 (lean on bank 2), and it looks like a misfire on cylinder 8 judging by that power graphy thingy. I'm going to check for a vacuum leak tomorrow on the PCV.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford Taurus. It has been running rough for awhile. It doesn't happen all the time, alas. I took it to my local repair guy. They first said, oh this happens when the AC is on. But I knew it happened otherwise.
The check engine light came on yesterday, blinking, but didn't stay on. And it was running rough. Check engine light came on, on a Sunday so I had to wait until Monday to bring the car in. They just called and said they can't find anything wrong, ran it on the computer, says it's running fine. I said, did you check the spark plugs, wires, etc? (I am good at googling, to be armed with some kind of info)
I am thinking they just put it on the computer. I suppose it has to be running bad to show anything (?) and even then, it's no guarantee. Anyway. It seems like I am "sentenced" to driving this car until it strands me, catches on fire (I read about that possibility and I have on occasion smelled something burning), or if luck has it, when it is running rough, and I bring it in while it's running rough, the computer finds the problem.
I have a 2008 Canadian F250 SD 5.4 triton. Its got 224000km on it and began to get the dreaded 5.4 dieseling when hot and idling. I replaced the timing chains, guides, both tensioners and crank gear. I confirmed the cam timing was correct with the crank key at 6:00 and the chains marks on the R and L. I replaced 2 coils on cyl's 2 and 3. I replaced the MAF sensor, fuel rail pressure sensor, cleaned and confirmed working the crank sensor and both cam sensors. I fixed the broken Bank 2 cam sensor wires. I changed the plugs and replaced all 4 O2 sensors.
Now the truck idles great but when driving it bucks and coughs and has zero power. I cant even get to 80km/hr. The computer now shows codes P0172 and P0174 which means the Bank 1 is rich and the bank 2 is lean. The O2 sensors are working and moving around. The back 02 sensors are both reading in the 0.8Volt range but bouncing around. The front 02 sensors are both moving from 0.1 to 0.8 constantly. The long term fuel trims are +9.5% bank 2 and -4.7% bank 1 at idle. When the throttle is off idle they become +25% bank 2 and -25% bank 1 . How is this possible and what can I do to fix this engine?.
Still having problems with my 2.4l 2002 santa fe. At stand still the MAF readings are within range. At 2000rpm it reads 9.3 gm/s. the info I have says it should be between 7.89-9.83.
When driving along at 50mph, 5th gear, engine speed 2000rpm it reads approx. 25.0 gm/s. at 3000rpm it reads 48 gm/s. Is the MAF sensor faulty?
It is now not running very well with fault codes P0171(fuel system to lean) That code comes up whilst driving at speed. I also get P0172(fuel system to rich). I got that one whilst driving slowly in a car park.
So I didn't pass the smog check for the new used car that I just purchased 10 days ago. Although my old car (same model), was five years older, I never had this problem. I was told that it is a gross polluter. These are the problem that I have to fix:
OBD Fault Codes - P1128 Manufacturer specific codeP0411 Secondary Air inj Incorrect FlowP0172 System too Rich (Bank 1)P0134 O2 Sensor CKT Inactive (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
How this happens?? 2001 VW ...
What may be the issue with my truck. Drove earlier in the day and hauled trailer. Ran fine. Got it home and once I unloaded trailer and went to start up truck again it died a minute into backing up. I tried to restart and turns over but dies in 3-5 seconds. Tried again a few hours later and next morning and same thing.
Pulled code and came up P0172- Bank 1 running rich. I had replaced the Mass Air Flow sensor a few months ago. Since it was still under warranty I went and got a new one in case that was the issue, but didn't fix. When I try to start it smells like gas. Sounds like fuel pump is coming on fine. Checked air filter.
Of course is still hooked up to the trailer and in a tight spot in the yard at the moment so anything basic/inexpensive I can try myself first would be great.
My Solara is running horribly. Its acting like the fuel pump or regulator is acting up as it loses power while driving and pumping the pedal usually does nothing. Its so bad that I cant drive it since top speed is about 10mph. If I just slightly touch the gas while driving I can get up to speed a little. It stalls when idling often too.
One thing I notice is if I stop driving for a while (with engine running) sometimes I can then drive away and the engine seems almost normal for 1-2 mins with lots of power. When the engine is cold it usually drives for 2 mins before these problems start.
This is a 2005 Solara. 4cyl 2AZFE gas engine - automatic - all stock - roughly 100,000 miles on the clock.
Its giving 2 codes: P0172 and P2196
I have looked up these codes and from reading I thought to try replacing the MAF sensor - no difference.
It feels like I'm driving a car with a bad carburetor again - really bogs out and laggy and sometimes even sounds like its backfiring slightly.
A bit of history:
- a few months ago I got the P0031 code so I replaced the upstream o2 sensor and all was good for a month or so.
- then about a month ago I got the P0136 code so I replaced the downstream o2 but it was starting to run badly before I could install and when I replaced it there was no change.
- last week I was surprised to see codes P0113, 172, 300, 301, 302, 303, and 136 but found that the battery terminal voltage was 10.5v so I replaced battery and those codes do not come back now.
- I'm thinking that due to the bad battery maybe the o2 sensors were not a problem? The upstream replacement made no difference (though it was running fine-just the CEL came on), and the downstream replacement made no difference (runs badly before and after).
My guess is fuel pressure, regulator, or injectors but its just getting too expensive to try.
Saturn 2002 SL1 5-speed. My SES light has been on constantly for about a year (was intermittent before that) with the codes P0172, P0300 and P0507. The car also idle high (2500+) occasionally at stops. My mechanic said it is likely an intake gasket but would need a full diagnostic to determine and that is not a safety hazard to drive but that I am getting less mph. I can't afford to fix it now but I have an emission test due. Is there a way to turn to light in the mean time?
View 1 RepliesSo my Explorer is a 2004 Eddie Bauer v-6 with about 93K miles, great condition, very clean and never had any issues. I've had it about 6yrs.
For maybe 3-4 years now the truck has seemingly randomly gone into Engine Failsafe Mode in the message center. I haven't noticed any pattern here as to when/why this occurs. The wrench icon lights up as well as the Service Engine Soon light. Sometimes I seem to notice a change in power/performance but often I don't. There are times when this happens every few days, and sometimes it goes weeks without occurring. Often it just goes out of Failsafe Mode after I've turned the truck off and restarted and seems fine again. For all of these years this has been a nuisance more than anything and so I assumed(hoped) it was just a sensor issue and nothing to be worried with.
A few days ago the truck actually shut off while driving...losing power, immediately after it kicked into Failsafe Mode while driving slowly down a straight road (no inclines or anything). Today it went into Failsafe mode, and it kept running, however the gas pedal did nothing...I couldn't accelerate at all though I still had power. Coasted to a stop. Turned truck off, started right up and the gas pedal worked fine. 15 minutes later same thing...this time when I coasted to a stop...I noticed that when I put truck in reverse I WAS able to back up using the gas pedal but couldn't go forward. Turned truck off, ran fine though still in Failsafe Mode...drove home where it sits now.
Don't really wanna drive it now though I need it as my only source of transportation. I did have the scan done on it at Autozone a month or so ago and got the P2106 "Throttle Actuator Control System--Forced Limited Power" reading...which of course means nothing to me...and the guys who worked there had no idea either. I had the oil changed at Midas yesterday where they checked fluids and all that good stuff...I mentioned it before hand and they said they looked at anything they could and couldn't find anything without running diagnostics on it...I didn't have them do this as it is quite costly and at that point I hadn't experienced the issue with losing acceleration/gas pedal functioning while driving down the road.
My girlfriend drives an 09 corolla (1.8L I believe). I have an OBDII bluetooth reader w/ Torque App so to identify the issue I can get some data:
Last week I was driving the corolla and I got P0031: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1). Car seemed to run fine without any issues. My girlfriend brought her car in to her "mechanic". "mechanic" who will replace have of your engine only to realize that your gas cap was cracked. He apparently replaced 02 Bank 1 Sensor 2 (I'm still trying to confirm this and to get the part # to make sure). He reset the ECU and she drove for about 30 miles after which these codes popped up:
P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1)
P0101: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
The car was idling rough. I reset the codes and the car was running fine until all monitor systems were ready. When Catalyst, 02 Heater & 02 Sensor are not ready everything is running fine and I don't see any error codes. I cleared ECU a few times. The last time I was able to drive for over 20 miles without any issues. Currently the only sensor not ready is 02 and car is running fine but I have a feeling once its ready the car will start having issues again:
Summary (if you don't want to read everything)
*P0031: H02S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1) - Car runs fine
*Mechanic replaces 02 Bank 1 Sensor 2 (Trying to find part # and double check sensor name)
*ECU reset and car runs fine for 30 miles
*P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1) and P0101: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
*ECU reset - car sputters and hesitates
*When all monitors are ready same codes (P0172 & P0101)
My 2006, 4.2 has been really erratically not starting. Turns over fine but will sometimes fire up and tries to run on maybe 2 cylinders, then stalls. Now it won't even do that, nothing. No check engine light or codes. Guess what the thing started up this morning 7 degrees out and running like a charm. Turned off and nothing again. Replaced relay for PCM ,no change, still no codes.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford F150 and the battery keeps dying. We do not use the truck a lot and it sometimes sits outside for 2-4 weeks without being used. If it sits that long, it might be completely dead, but starts up easily with a jump and then works fine for a while. The battery is a 650 amp Motocraft w prorated replacement from 37-100 mo. The local Ford dealer has checked it several times in the past 2 yr and said it is fine, and that if the truck sits for a couple of weeks the battery will die. Is that right? I am not a car moron, nor am I an expert, but I am concerned that they are missing a small draw somewhere in the system. Should I be concerned about a draw or is this just something that happens to batteries as they get older?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 Sedona with the following trouble codes: P0018, P0300, P0302, P0304
I have replaced the coils and plugs, a torn air intake hose, and a camshaft position sensor for the side of the engine with even numbered cylinders.
It still runs rough has a blinking CEL, and gives the same codes.
I found that unplugging any of the myriad of sensors under the hood will keep the ECM in open loop so that it runs like a dream, but as soon as they are plugged back it, the trouble comes back. I used that fact to my advantage to drive the car to the mechanic a few miles away.
After running diagnostics, he says the ECM is bad based on the fact that the number 2 and number 4 fuel injectors stop pulsing after a couple minutes of idling. He says they are not even getting a signal from the ECM. He does not have the equipment necessary to flash a new ECM and recommends going to the dealership for a new one and getting it flashed there.
My question is, if I am being lied to, what do I need in terms of equipment to get a used ECM, install it and flash it with my VIN myself? If such equipment is cost prohibitive, can I contact one of these companies that sells ECMs and have them send me one preprogrammed with my VIN?