Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: CEL On - Misfiring Enough To Feel Consistent Buck From The Engine
Oct 9, 2012
I am having my trouble with my 06 F150 with the 5.4 V8. I purchased the truck back in the spring and shortly after the truck started misfiring. It was throwing P0306 for cylinder 6 misfire and that was the only code thrown. Seeing as it was out of warranty and right at the 100k mark I replaced all the plugs with Motorcraft plugs, and the plugs that came out were Champion, so it had already been done at least once. This didnt solve my problem at all so I started digging deeper. I replaced the coil pack on the number six cylinder thinking it may have gone bad, but this did not fix my problem either. I had somehow overlooked that the number two cylinder had a Masterpro coil pack that was made in Taiwan or somewhere like that, and after using the Motorcraft coilpack I had pulled from number 6 on cylinder two all my problems went away...until recently.
At the beginning of August my truck started the infamous ticking sound that we all know about. I ignored it for a while, but as I was moving off to college the misifre returned while going down the interstate at around 65-70mph. The truck lost pretty much all power and I coasted off the next exit to see what was going on. After making it off the truck was running perfectly, so I poked on home on back roads at slower speeds to be safe. The next day I took it to the Ford dealership to have them run a full diagnostic scan to determine anything that could possibly be wrong. After sitting in the waiting room for three hours as they searched the guy comes in to let me know they have ran every test they could and nothing was showing up, but the lash adjusters (lifters) on the passenger side of the engine needed replaced as that was what was causing the ticking sound.
Well today I start my truck to come to school and it felt slightly different, but once I accelerated all was fine. Once i left school this was another story though. The CEL was on and the truck was misfiring enough to feel a consistant buck from the engine. I pulled the codes and it is now giving me P0307 and P0316 which are misfire in cylinder 7 and misfire upon startup. What could this be knowing all the plugs have recently been changed and the dealer just inspected the entire engine?
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I have an 08 that the heater either works all hot or cold. It seems that when i try to control the temp it isnt consistent. It will be on hot, turned all the way the right in the red. Great, it gets too warm in the truck so turn it down a little. Then it is too cold. I only turned it down a little, not even in the blue zone yet. I turn it up a little and it is still cold. Turn it all the way up and it is too hot again. What is up with this. I hope it isnt the blend door syndrome. The truck only has 30,000 on it.
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Started my car up the other day after sitting overnight at temps around or below 0. Started as I would expect in the cold and I walked away to let it warm up. After about 10 minutes I went back to find the car misfiring very consistently, sounded and felt like one whole cylinder was dead. When I attempted to rev the engine it would not rise above 2k RPM and continued misfiring. I shut the engine off and restarted, this fixed the misfiring however the EPC light and Traction Control light remained. The tire pressure light was also on but this is to be expected due to temps. Also there was an "!" instead of my odometer reading, I am guessing this is because I had previously been using cruise control when I turned the car off the night before. Anyways, after a quick drive all lights went away including low tire pressure but seen issues like this from cold weather??
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I have that wonderful ticking noise... Here is some info on my truck: Its 133k, 5.3L 3V. I put new plugs in it and changed the oil (YES the right filter and oil).
Okay, so I'm trying to make sure my diagnosis is what I think it is before I start digging into the motor and get angry because I ordered the wrong parts.
Preface: I got the truck from a deal auction. I was told it ran great, well when I got it, it had this tick. It comes and goes as it pleases (not dependent on the weather or RPMS. The noise is consistent, it gets faster as RPMs rise, it doesn't go away after 1,200 rpms. This lead me to eliminate cam phasers as the issue.
Now here is something odd: After starting up the truck, initially it will be pretty quick and have great throttle response, but after that it will start act like someone put on the parking brake. It can barely accelerate and when you put it to the floor it gets worse. It seems to accelerate best at half throttle. The second part is the truck will shift, dropping the rpms incredibly low and the tick gets louder and more spaced out (leading me to think it's rpm dependent).
All of the noise seems to be localized around the passenger size head area. If I unplug the VCT solenoid the ticking doesn't seem to be as loud if I drive it the next day, and it doesn't do the shift into lower rpms and accelerates wonderfully. Leading me to think it's either the timing is off and when the phasers kick on it goes way out of time and causes it to go into limp mode...or the VCT solenoid is bad?
The ticking never fully goes away, but it has it's quiet days and LOUD days...
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I've got an '06 F150 and the steering isn't right with it. It has had a heavy feel and is almost like the power assist is only working half as good as it should. It's been like this for a couple months. I 've had all four ball joints and the steering rack replaced in the last month. It had the heavy steering feel before and after everything was replaced. It also doesn't recover itself on sharp turns, I have to turn the wheel back as I complete the turn. Could it be the power steering pump? I thought it was a mechanical device and it either worked or it didn't, maybe they get weak?
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The car is a 2002 VW Jetta, automatic 1.8t GLS. 146k miles on it. Has an external amp/sub wired up by my brother who is an MECP certified tech and has been doing car audio and overall Audi/VW for years.
I was driving, nothing out of the usual, this car is my daily. Stopped because of traffic and my car died in the middle of traffic, the gauges (tach, speedo, gas, etc) spiked immediately, which I assumed meant loss of electricity, but my radio, headlights and everything else stayed on. The oil and Battery lights came on as well. Tried to start it, it was trying to start, and was cranking quickly, but wouldn't turn over. I got it out of traffic. I pulled my amp power and the car turned over and started driving like normal, so i figured there had been a short in the wire and that was what caused my issue. Drove about a half mile down the road, car shut off again, car said it needed oil this time. checked the oil, there was plenty, but i put more in to be safe, and it turned right over and i managed to drive it about 30 minutes and got it back to my house.
So, my brother and i look the car over, couldn't find anything really wrong with it, so we took it out for a drive, no problem at all for the first few minutes of driving. Car shuts off again, doing the same thing, but just the battery light came on. My brother jumped my car, it turned over, but as i started to drive it, it was a lot more rough with shifting (possibly tied to electrical problems because i know there is a solenoid cluster for automatic transmissions), i mean you could actually hear the gears shifting and the car was kicking through each gear, as well as my driver side headlight not turning on (just installed brand new xantec 6k 55w HIDs, but i dont think those are the problem because the problem started before i installed the HIDs) and died 3 more times before i got it home, having to jump the car every single time with symptoms the same as the first time it died without the oil light. Another thing i noticed is that the car seemed to only die when i hit the brakes and the car went to low RPMs, which lead me to believe a major vacuum leak. At idle the car also seemed like it was misfiring even though the CEL was not flashing, it just had the jerking feeling and sound of misfiring.
My brother and i take a better look into the bay area, and noticed that the top of my engine was covered in oil, from the intake manifold back. I know my car has been leaking oil, but not spraying it. We pulled everything apart, totally cleaned the engine bay area out including MAF, spark plugs, coil packs etc. The engine bay area looked practically brand new. Now i do know that my car has had a vacuum leak (no boost gauge to tell how bad, but the brakes were a little bit less responsive and the car was acting as though it was misfiring despite the fact that the coil packs and spark plugs are brand new) and we couldn't find where it was, and we thought that maybe that was the problem. A lot of the vacuum line was dry rotted and falling apart and some parts weren't even connected anymore from that, which we replaced all of the line we could find to eliminate the idea of a vacuum leak causing the car to die when i hit the brakes. We also tested the battery with a multi-meter which read variably between 13.8-14 V, which if i understand correctly is within normal range, but oddly enough we put the battery through a stress test including turning on defrosted, turning sound system back on, headlights on etc, and the voltage didn't read much different, still bouncing between 13.8-14.
When tearing things apart, we also found that the starter solenoid was unbelievably loose due to a bad transmission mount, and one bolt was missing, so we were thinking that could be arcing causing the problems, but when the solenoid was tightened down, the problems still persisted.
Started the car, let it warm up, and it seemed perfectly fine. I drove it into town without problems, but forgot my wallet at home, so i had to turn around and go back. Almost made it home, the car died while stopping at a stop sign. Tried turning it back over, nothing the first 3 times, let it sit for about 5 minutes and the car turned right over as if nothing was wrong. Died again when i made it into my driveway about 0.5 miles away and the symptoms repeated until the car finally just turns on like normal now, but the idle is at 1100 RPMS (not sure if related or not) even though the car is at the optimal temperature. I tried driving it again after the car starts normally like it does now, but it just repeats the symptoms that it has been, cutting off but leaving the stereo, headlights etc on. I managed to get it back in my driveway.
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Had a miss in the #5 cylinder on a 2005 F-150 5.4 Triton. Had it hooked up to see which code was given and the tech said that #5 was the culprit. Taking no chances, I purchased a new plug and coil pack. I installed them and it ran great until I got up to around 70mph and then it started dong the same thing it was doing earlier. I took it back to the place that checked the codes and it came back as the #5 cylinder misfiring again. I am not sure how this is possible after replacing the plug and coil pack. Is there some way that the plug that fires just ahead of #5 is fouled out and causing the #5 cylinder to get too much fuel transferred to that cylinder? Or is there a possible short somewhere causing that cylinder to misfire and ruin the coil pack? I am stumped on this for the moment anyway.
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I recently bought a 05 f150 with 5.4 3v and 195k miles needing some work. Ran great, just had a code for timing over retarded. Originally it had a cracked timing cover, so i took it off to replace and found broken guides and bad tensioners on timing. I installed new guides, chains, and tensioners, and cleaned phasers, and put back together only to find it ran terrible and had a phaser rattle. I then went in and installed phaser locks, which took care rattle but not the running issues. I can not figure it out.
ISSUES: My issues almost mirror what is said in this thread here, but this issue was never solved. [URL] ....
My issue is when started cold it starts right up, idles ok, runs ok, although a bit sluggish. Once its warm it stalls at idle, shudders when giving throttle in overdrive, and if you kick it down it will continually backfire, and slowly accelerate... it kicks down but acts like its only getting 1/8 throttle, just kind of hangs at the same rpm and slowly climbs in rpm. Sometimes it wont backfire as much, and sometimes the check engine light flashes. After it stalls at idle and you start it back up it sounds like it shudders/backfires for a split second then starts.
It is throwing many engine codes, but most are from the phaser locks. Throws code for timing over advanced on each bank (phaser locks lock them fully advanced), cam timing codes for each bank, and then a code that doesn't have to do with the timing, P2106. I am going to run some live diagnostics on it today and report back but I am fully at a loss.
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I just changed the plugs in my 05 stx 4x4 4.6L. Truck was running fine, never a problem but it has 105k so I figured id change them. #4 was the only one that gave me a little problem (besides being so tight). The coil and spring pulled off the boot, and I had to get a pair of pliers and get the boot off the plug.
I simply slid the spring back through the boot and replaced it once I had changed the plug. Other than that they all came out easily. I replaced with motorcraft plugs, and #5 did have what looked like some oil down on the threads when I pulled it out, but not sure if that's a big deal or not
Any way, I am torn between ordering new boots and changing them out, or just biting the bullet and getting 8 new coils with new boots attached. Truck runs fine, but does the usual buck/jerk under a load in overdrive now (never once did it before)...
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My 05 was running rough and misfiring quite frequently. After much deliberation, I took it in for a diagnostic hookup. The dealer said my driver side cat was clogged. Lucky for me, I was just under the warranty period(79673 miles). I have had it replaced and I can feel a noticeable difference in the way it runs. Could a clogged cat have made it run that poorly or am is it just in my head that it is running alot better?
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I have an 2006 f-150 King Ranch with 103k miles and it was misfiring and then stalling when stopping at lights. Both cam shaft sensors and all coil packs were relaced then it was still misfiring. The head was recently replaced and now they are waiting on a new computer. When it starts misfiring it vibrates the whole truck and the engine light flashes. If you turn the truck off then back on it will run fine for about 50 miles. Im worried that replacing the computer is not going to fix it, what else could it be?
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2004 5.4L ... Codes indicate a firing issue on #4 cylinder, figure it's the coil pack. They bought truck used a few years ago and plugs have not been changed since they have owned it. I was going to change plugs while I was under the hood. While checking threads on this engine I picked up on plugs being a major job unless you know the tricks. So what tricks do y'all have up your sleeve to keep from breaking plugs?
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i have a 2005 f150 4x4 5.4 3 valve. it ides good but when it is in on it splutters, and also feels like dead cylinders in passenger gear. i checked the codes the other day and i had a cylinder 5 misfire. so i cleared it and today checked again and had running lean bank one and cylinder 8 misfire, then checked one more time and had cylinder 7 misfire. I am sure it is a bad coil but how do I know which one?
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My 2004 f150 has always been great to me. all the way till now at 255k miles. My truck is misfiring really bad. Here are the codes I have :
P0506 low idle (because of the misfire)
P0356 ignition coil F (6) primary/ secondary circuit
P0308 Cylinder 8 misfire
P0174 system too lean (Bank 2, right side of engine)
p0316 misfire detected on startup
This problem happened 2 days ago. I reset the codes and they all come back together in 10 minutes. the misfire is very bad. I wonder why coil 6 has a fault code but number 8 has the misfire code.
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I recently purchased a Ford pickup. I bought a 2004 F-150 with the 5.4L 3V engine. I have only driven it for about 300 miles so far and am having problems. The engine has 200,000 miles on it. I have read several posts on here about the cam phasers which I believe that I may have some issues with. The engine will run good when cold, on the road, etc. The engine does have a slight ticking after it warms up (cam phasers?). When I come to a stop after the engine is operating temperature, the engine will start to miss and shudder and all 4 above codes come active and are also pending (8 codes in total).
All 4 codes are logged at the same time. I have replaced both cam position sensors, both sensor ends and terminals for cam position sensors, checked wiring around rear of engine (does not appear to be rubbed through), all plugs were replaced, and all COP boots are good. Is there anything that can cause these codes that may not be the actual cam position sensors, ie. VTC, COPs, cam phasers? What pins the cam position sensors come to on the ECU (so I can ohm the entire wire harness)?
Also, if the engine is missing with the codes active and I rev the engine up it will come back to idle and run great. The engine never dies out, just runs horribly. I have also unplugged each sensor with the engine running which has no effect on the way it runs.
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To start off with I am not car smart! I have a 2008 Santa Fe 3.3L V6. Last year about this time (December) I had problems with the vehicle upon start up would be miss firing and the check engine light would come on. I would turn the vehicle off and restart and it would be fine and not happen again sometimes for a week and sometimes for months. I hooked it up to the computer and found that it was missing on the #6 cylinder. I had the coil pack replaced and that seemed to fix the problem (replaced spring 2011). About a week ago it started doing the same thing (December 1). Upon initial start up when the car is cold and the outside air is very cold it started missing again and having a rough idle. Would turn of the car and restart and would run fine but check engine light would come on.
Hooked it up to the computer once again and it read random misfire. This has happened twice now in two weeks with the same reading each time. Always when it is cold (engine and outside temp) and seems to reset itself when turned off.
I spoke with a mechanic who recently had this same issue with a different vehicle and after trying many things replaced the engine coolant temp sensor and that did the trick. He said it was a cheap start therefore i bought the part and now am looking to replace it. The only problem being i am car dumb and cant find it. I have done many searches and the diagrams i have found don't do me any justice. The past posts on here have given pictures of older models that dont match what i am looking at. It probably is right in front of my face. Any picture of a 2008 that will show the correct area I should be looking at? The vehicle only has about 57,000 miles on it.
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It all started after I refueled at Mobil after a rainstorm a month ago. Could be coincidence, but right after that the car started jerking wildly and making a howling wind noise from the front. Thought it was the transmission. Brought to Lexus dealership, they told me nothing was wrong as I had low mileage on the car. There are NO Check Engine lights on the dashboard. Car "quieted down" after that, but the noise remains EXCEPT at high speed when it's quiet.
In addition to that, the jerking / misfiring continues at stops, reversing, and slower speeds on occasion only.
I tried Techron FI cleaner, but it has not made a difference. Filled up several times since then.
What's wrong?
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Over the past couple of weeks my truck has developed a pretty consistent metallic buzz on light/moderate acceleration. At first I thought it was a heat shield rattling, but I've been under it a dozen times and can't find anything loose to make the metallic buzz that I'm hearing... I can pound on several places in the exhaust system with my palm and it seems solid/connected everywhere. V10 truck??
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I recently picked up a 2004 Mercury Mountaineer, 4.0 with 113,000 miles. OBD reader says misfire on 3 cylinders.. Installed new plug wires first.. nothing.. going to install plugs next when she is cold. Now, am I really looking at replacing the coil pack to end the misfire codes? She likes to buck and shake and idle around 400 rpms.. I know that is too low..
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I have a 98 Ranger 4x4 XLT 4.0 5sp. It has 182K miles.
Once in a while it will blow the fuel pump fuse. It'll go 2 years sometimes. And sometimes the engine will stall just for a second making the truck "buck" as it accelerates.
Could it be the pump is about to fail? How long do they normally last? Btw, I change my fuel filter every 2 years, no issue there.
I've owned the truck since new and maintenance is always taken care of. Also, What's the best way to change the pump?
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2000 Crown Victoria, 207K miles, 111K on current engine
My car has been an absolute champ since I took ownership of her at 133K miles, and to this day runs trouble-free. However, it's just started making a noise that's got my scratching my head. I can only describe it as a "puff" sound. It's consistent with engine speed (higher RPM = faster puffs), and seems to get louder the more open the throttle is. If you let off the gas and coast, the noise goes away.
What's kinda confusing me is that the noise does not occur at all while the car is not in gear. If you park and rev the engine, the noise doesn't happen at all. All fluid levels and conditions are good, and there's been no loss of power or other issues from the engine or transmission.
My only guess is perhaps I have a teeny-tiny pinhole leak in my exhaust somewhere. The sound seems to be coming from somewhere very close to the engine, but since it doesn't happen when parked I can't pop the hood and look around for where exactly the sound might be coming from.
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