Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: CEL Flashing / Engine Lost Power And Got More Erratic
Mar 17, 2011
I have an 05 F150. Last week engine started running rough, check light was flashing. Engine lost power and got more erratic. Had it towed to Ford dealer, Dickson TN. Dealer says "#2 injector has suck open and flooded the Cylinder and bent the C-Rod." Ok have put in another 5.4(not at Dealership) hummm new engine runs the same as the one that came out. Had A different Dealer check this engine they tell me the right bank is not making compression cam has jumped time.
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I went for a drive in my new truck and hadn't put the pedal down until now. its really cold here (5f, or -15c). Anyways so i waited for the engine to get warm and then i put my foot down until i got to about 100km (60 mph). Everything was fine, I was on a gravel road so i turned around and did it again, this time i totally lost power once i hit around 60kmh. the check engine light flashed a few times, i tried again, same thing, this time the check engine light came on and stayed on.
I eased off the gas a bit, then came to a full stop a little ways down the road. I tried again and this time i had full power, though i didn't take it to 100kms because there were icy patches all over the road and the truck went a little sidways. The check engine light was off, and i tried one more time after that and got up to 100 and everything was fine and the check engine light never came back.
I'm worried, my first real truck here, what happened?? Also when i stopped the truck i had a listen to the engine, everything seemed normal, but I've noticed before there seems to be a clacking sound almost, not sure if this is normal with a 5.4? I had a 2.2 litre sonoma before this so I'm new to all this.
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Now I know I'm having problems when I go to start my car, and the check engine light starts flashing and my engine is idling really erratic. What could this be? I have a 2000 Buick Park Ave. I went to start it today.... problems. I have had this problem before and it seemed to correct itself.
I started my car. It was kinda rough when I started it. My engine started trembling and check engine light started flashing. I turned my car off and back on and it went away. No check engine light...no trembling..nothing!! Well, at least til now. I went to start it up and the same thing happened...really rough idle and my check engine light started flashing.
I was recently told it could be a misfire, but I was also told by a family mechanic that it could just be a faulty plug or shorted wires. Also, recently when I have been driving, my car has been feeling a little sluggish right around the 2nd gear mark, and I have watched my voltage gauge on my dash jump around a lot, anywhere from 11v to 13v. Could this be a symptom? Or the effect of something else? I don't want to get ripped of for something as simple as changing some spark plugs or wires.
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2008 F150 5.4L .. The truck lost all power the other day driving and barely made it to work. On the ride home it was still running horribly, like it just fell on its face. the check engine light came on. Went to autozone and put HEAT in the gas tank cuz the night before it was at quarter tank and temp went from warm to freezing(thought maybe condensation in tank).. Truck ran a lot better( not perfect). Drove around that day and it was fine. Pulled down the driveway and CE light shut off. Ran the code anyways and it was P0012..
Talked to a few mechanics and they said try replacing the Camshaft position sensors..did so and it ran worse. the truck hardly would idle or rev and shook violently..i shut it down right away. Then it threw 9 codes..Cam shaft position- over retarded timing bank 1(P0012), misfire cyl2, misfire cyl3, misfire cyl 4, random misfire, cam sensor bank 1, three of them were repeated codes..
I replaced the sensors back to stock and cleared the codes. the truck is running like it was in the beginning of the problem..No vilant shaking but falling right on its face at idle and any rpm..not drivable. Would rather do the work myself. very capable except for replacing camshaft phasers which i have heard could be the issue..Could it by the VCT seliniod, EGR valve, plugs, wires...Did just change the oil a week ago and cleaned and reoiled air filter.
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I tugged on the little hose on the back pass. side of the engine,(5.4),...
and I could hear the vacuum leak that is apparently causing the erratic idle, and PO171 & PO174 to come up.
I know this hose is hooked to the Charge motion Control Valve on the back of the manifold,..I can't imagine what it does, as it terminates with some kind of plug or check valve??? Haynes say's to remove the entire manifold to get to the CMCV.
I can see it with a mirror,. I am thinking maybe long needle nose from Harbor freight,...bend the tip short,..maybe be able to change it out?????
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Sonata Limited w/3.3 engine with 41414 miles. I was driving along and the car lost power but the engine kept running at idle. Check engine light came on so I took it to a shop.They said the throttle control showed up bad. The whole throttle control system has to be replaced. This would cost @$450.00 Does this seem right that a car with only 41 thousand miles would need a major part like this replaced? The bumper to bumper warranty ran out in Jan 2013.
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The battery light came on in my '04 F150 a couple of days ago. Terminals were in need of cleaning, so I took care of that. The next day after driving 50 miles to and from work, the battery light came on again, along with the ABS & Brake light started flashing. After shutting the truck off, it would not start.
Three days later, I have now installed a brand new alternator and battery, only to have the same symptoms pop up about one minute after start up. The warning lights are now accompanied by the passenger airbag light and all engine instruments needle sweep back and forth. Dash lights go dim and bright intermittently as RPM varies.
Do I need old fault codes cleared or is this a PCM issue?
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2006 F150 Triton 5.4 Motor... It's been over a months journey with fixing this truck....
How it started: had an oil change, a while back, on long drive after, check engine light started flashing as I accelerated up hill so I pulled over and in a while it was ok, but couldn't get on the gas too much, or it would cause that flashy light thing.
So fast forward to now, after driving it with an intermittent miss for a while, was driving it to work and the miss became a shudder, and she stopped going over 30-40, and runs extremely rough.
Steady but loud idle.
Replaced all plugs with motocraft plugs and new coils all around. No change.
Finally hooked it up to a computer and got random misfires, now it's saying
P0174 bank 2 too lean,
But it's bank ONE that's the only side misfiring.
Here are the freeze frame details:
Frame 1 Mod $00
MIL Status Off
Troub Code P0174
Abslt TPS 24.3%
Eng speed 1665
Baro PRS 71 kpa
Calc Load 100%
[Code].....
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Got an 07 Screw with only 50,000 miles. Yesterday, wife drove it home from work and said it would only do 45mph and didn't sound good. No warning lights were on, she said. I test drove it in the evening and it ran totally fine. Today, she drives it to work and said it ran real rough and "Check Engine" light was on. I picked it up from her work and it idles very rough and slow, and once you hit about 2000 rpm, it runs decent, maybe even normal. Below that, it stumbles and engine doesn't sound right. "Check Engine" light is either ON steady, or flashing. I don't have a code reader, so its likely going to the Ford Dealer Monday. Is there any way to read the code without a reader?
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2005 F-150 4.6L 2WD, 268,000 miles....
Recently I got a flashing 'Check Engine' light and a rough running engine (along with a tapping noise) when I was passing someone (and pulling a trailer). I retrieved codes 300, 304, & 305. I can't swear to it, but I think the tapping noise started at the same time as the coil problem.
I replaced coils #4 & #5 (later that same day) and the engine smoothed back out but the tapping noise is still hanging around. The noise speeds up at higher RPM's and doesn't go away if I shift into neutral. Oil level and pressure are fine and I only use Motorcraft 5W-20 and Motorcraft filters (and change the oil every 5K miles).
Not sure if this is relevant: I think I have bad valve guide seals (blue smoke after long idles) but no other problems that I am aware of. It sort of sounds like a lifter, but is there a good way to pin it down? Is it possible that this tapping is related to the bad coils?
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I have a 2003 Ford Ranger, recently I had the heater core fail. One thing that happened during the heater core starting to leak is the "THEFT" light came on brighter than normal and no longer flashes when the truck is off. Also when the theft light started acting up the O/D OFF light came on and would not shut off. If I pushed the O/D off button the Theft light will go out and then come back on after the button is released.
After the heater core was replaced the lights stayed on as described above. Every once in a while the O/D off light would stay off but then come on later. No really problem besides the lights and O/D off button not working. Now today the O/D off light started flashing and the truck kept shifting in and out of O/D.
I'm leaning towards a speed sensor issue. I'm going to check and see if there is any codes tonight and will post my results. One other thing that happen with the heater core leaking is the "CHECK ENGINE" light came on because the O2 sensor was shorted out. Have the O2 sensor now and plan on replacing it while I trouble shoot the erratic shifting in and out of O/D.
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I have a 2005 f-150 street boss with 79000 mile, and it is shooting off going down the road, and the check engine light is flashing. The first time I started it back up and it would idle fine, but the throttle wouldn't do any thing. After setting about 15 min. I started it up and it ran good. I checked the codes and it had a p2104 Throttle actuator control system forced idle. It happened again with my wife. This time when I checked the codes it had the p2104 and a p2112 throttle actuator control system stuck closed code. What could be the problem, or a troubleshooting guide I could use to try and diagnose it.
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I was driving home today and when I got on to the freeway, the car lost power and the check engine light started to flash like it was misfiring, also the EPC light came on. When I got off the freeway and let it idle, it idled rough until I turned the car off and put my APR flash back to stock. After that the car was idling fine and the check engine and EPC lights were gone. Everything seemed to be working fine until I hit about 75 mph. The car started sputtering again only as long as i tried to accelerate. Under light to moderate acceleration the car works fine up to about 70 mph. After that or under heavy acceleration the car sputters and the CE light flashes and then turns off.
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So, the latest problem with the Phaeton is EITHER 'Engine workshop fault' or 'Exhaust workshop fault'. The latter has been on for a few days, however yesterday was accompanied by a flashing coil light and the car lost almost all power.
So I took it to a diesel specialist as the VW Dealers around here are just awful, and using a Delphi system he read a single fault code which pointed to the DPF pressure. He suggested a regeneration, however there was no option to do this.
When I start the vehicle the warning lights remain off for a few seconds and the car drives normally, then on they come (either Engine or Exhaust workshop fault, always now accompanied by the dreaded flashing coil).
I took it out this evening and maintained 3000RPM or above for about 30minutes (with the odd stop for traffic lights) but this hasn't made any difference.
Is it worth just sitting on the drive with it revving at 4000 or so as with a regeneration? I understand that also involved increased diesel into the exhausts though.
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199k on my prius. I'm driving 65 mph and bam! All warning lights come on, PROBLEM, comes up on the mfd, and the mfd had a funky little broken cat symbol light in the top left corner.
I lose engine power and coast to a stop. As I'm coasting the speed display stops showing my speed... even though the rest of the gouges are lit on the display. While parked I realize I have very little 12v battery juice....
With a jumper pack on the front terminals I get the cat home. I ser on the display the my hv battery is stuck at one bar.
At home I charge the 12v battery and get the hv battery fully charged by holding the gas down in drive with foot on the brake. My Toyota mechanic told me to do that. All warning lights go away. I leave a jumper pack on the battery in the rear and take for another test drive. Car is better but still sluggish... Try to get it up to 50 mph and bam! again all warning lights return.
So I get the car to toyota dealer and and my guy reads the codes and tells me every ecu is showing codes abs recommends 12v battery replacement. He clears the codes. So I buy a brand new battery and after installing it all warning lights return on test ride. Car won't do over 50 mph and is def still a mess.....
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Basically, about 3 weeks ago I noticed some problems with my 04 Prius. It has 72k miles on the clock. The exhaust was making a farting sound. I have since diagnosed this as a hole in the back box which I promptly replaced. But the real problem is the power.
When driving in electric mode, the car runs as normal. But when I press down on the gas just a little more to the point where the ICE kicks in, it doesn't give as much power as it used to. For example, in electric mode, cruising at 30mph and achieving 99.9mpg, I'd press the pedal down about half an inch. Where this used to kick the ICE in and show 60mpg+ (with the engine charging the battery and providing power to the wheels), it now shows about 30mpg. When I press the pedal a further half inch, it would normally show 35-45mpg, but now reads 16-25mpg. And when its fully depressed, it used to show 12-16mpg but now barely hits double figures and averages about 6.7mpg. Even on highways when I've achieved 60mph and gently ease off the pedal to maintain speed or really slowly increase, I used to achieve 60-70mpg but now I'd be lucky if it makes it to 40.
I also noticed that it produces considerably less pulling power than it used to. Almost as if the engine is really struggling, even when gently pressing the pedal and accelerating from 30mph upwards. This is having a large effect on my overall fuel consumption. I get so scared that I'm wasting too much fuel that I drive really conservatively now.
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I have late 2004 with 130k with a bpd egr cooler and new oil cooler and new ficm from Ed. Cat delete with no muffler. Everything else is stock I have a dash boss and was noticing some weird numbers. My check engine light came on but I couldn't get any codes with the dashboss. I started monitoring the egr error and saw some erratic readings really high negative numbers after I let the throttle off. The truck runs okay but was kinda starting slow. Could my egr valve be stuck? Could my short modified exhaust be messing things up?
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So, I was just driving home from work in my 2005 Prius (~78k miles) when the engine started surging erratically and uncontrollably. I don't know if this is the cause, but I hit a bump right as I was hitting the gas and so I wasn't surprised when it revved up at first. But, then I backed off and it kept revving. Then I took my foot off the gas and it was still revving and accelerating so I had to start braking to keep going the same speed.
It kept erratically surging and then letting off as I basically kept braking at different levels to maintain speed or slow down when I could as we were coming to an intersection. The light turned red and I managed to get to a stop even though it was still revving, so I hit the P button and the engine calmed down. So, when traffic started again I slowly put it back in D and it surged again. We didn't move much before we had to stop again so I put it in P again. I noticed the battery icon was down to a few pink bars so I turned off the radio and air. Traffic started again and I put it in D and this time it seemed ok. I detected a faint smell that I think was probably from the brakes/tires being overheated, but it could've been something else maybe. It drove normally the rest of the way home.
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My 2004 Saturn Ion, 235,000 miles, 2.2 engine is idling erratic when I turn on AC. It sounds as though the compressor is turning on and off. The air is cold then blows warm then cold etc. Is it the compressor or could it be a relay or fuse. It also overheated last week but not sure if problems are connected. I am idling car right now with AC off to see if fan comes on.
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My 2004 F-150 only has 52,000 miles on it and all of a sudden it lost the keeper off the lifter and doesn't hardly run. I am told that is common with the F-150 starting in 2004 but when I contacted Ford they admitted it was common but they won't stand behind it ...
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I have lost drive and overdrive. I have first and second and when I let off the gas pedal everything seems normal. When I am in drive with overdrive switched off and keep a steady speed it doesn't shift into drive. When I let off the gas in drive the tach goes to 1k and its like I'm in neutral. If I switch OD on it's like neutral and the engine revs. I have pulled the pan and valve body and do not see any metal.
OD snap ring is intact. Fluid looks good with no burnt smell...I'm thinking shifting solenoids but have not tested them yet. There is no grinding noise at all and no slipping in first and second gears. It threw cam sensors codes and I replaced both but I think that was from the neutral condition and test drove before dropping the pans and still no shifting to drive or OD. No transmission codes...
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