It just started doing it the only way I can seem to figure out how to explain it is at about 50 to 60 under slight acceleration or uphill it bucks or jerks like you have a trailer jerking. No check engine light this thing is driving me nuts... 2004 f150 5.4 ...
View 14 RepliesTruck is 08' with 5.4, 3.55 gears, auto trans. 84k miles. Recently purchased from the TSA fleet trucks, so I have no clue what PM procedures were done prior to me getting it.
I noticed the following: when I get the truck into OD and then slowly decelerate (meaning I let it coast and im not braking) to about 40mph then get on the gas (normal acceleration) the truck bucks hard almost like when your spinning wheels on snow or ice and put the truck in 4wd and the front rear locks. or a limited slip rear that catches when one wheel is spinning.
if I accelerate hard the truck pushes thru it and doesn't buck as bad. I have searched this out and there are several threads about it that describe just about exactly what im talking about, the following have been brought up as possible problems:
1) bad spark plug/s and or coil/s
this seems to be the most common answer to the possible problem.
2)broke valve spring
3) bad torque convertor
So at 84k miles im thinking replacing the spark plugs would be fine to do as a PM. So coils.............should I just go ahead and replace them as well? I found them (motorcraft). does that seem right?
As far as spark plugs, I have already read the horror stories on the 04-08's breaking the plug in the head. I have also read that before 10/07 was the trucks that had the issue. my build date is 02/08. am I good to go with normal removal of the plugs? the best method I have read for removing them is spray carb cleaner down the hole and let it soak overnight and then the next day drive the truck get it nice and hot and remove them right after you park it,,,,
I've been noticing over the past couple years that sometimes when I accelerate, there's a slight delay between the time I press my foot down on the pedal and when acceleration actually happens. From reading other threads it would seem that the most common fix is to re-flash the ECU. I bought a DiabloSport Predator tuner along with a CAI a while back to improve performance/gas mileage and I was wondering if there's a way I can use the tuner to re-flash.
If not, do most ford repair shops already carry these? I don't want to buy a flash programmer. Also, if the shop does carry this type of an item, what is the average cost to get it re-flashed?
I own an '04 F150 XLT 5.4l.
At 89,000 miles I replaced my plugs with autzone autolites and also replaced my fuel filter. Shortly there after the truck started to shutter and shake while miss firing giving a 0307 code. After checking that plug and replacing it, moving the COPs across the engine from each other the miss firing continued under the 0307 code. The miss firing mostly occurred when I was around 50 MPH, under slight strain with a little acceleration. If I powered through it most of the time it would clear out. Occasionally it was bad enough to where I had to pull over.
I trouble shot this for about a month before it got more consistent and worse. I took it to the shop where they tested the compression on the cylinder and also tested each coil. All check out OK. They recommended I replace all plugs with motorcrafts and the boots on the coils. In the process of doing that I discovered a loose plug in the #2 cylinder. I pulled it out and found that it was scorched and the metal was slightly tweaked at the tip. Not sure how it got loose or how it got burned, but figured that I found the problem. All plugs and boots replaced!
Two days later more miss firing. This time with a 0305 code. Occurs again on a grade at around 50 MPH with slight acceleration. I pulled that plug and the plug in the cylinder where the loose plug was found. Nothing seemed to be wrong. The plugs seemed a little brown where I put anti seize on but that I figured was normal. I then moved coils again. The miss fire continued and the code did not move. There is still a rough idle and occasional humming coming from the engine.
Is the loose burnt plug a separate issue or is there something causing all the miss fires that backed my plug out. I'm lost on my next step to take. Im getting married in two weeks so needless to say spending more and more money on this issue let alone time is making things so stressful. Besides the fact that I think my engine going to blow up on me every time it miss fires bad.
I posted a while back about my 04 5.4 having an issue at idle. I did all the normal things like replace coil, spark plug, etc etc. No change to the issue. It still acts as though it's misfiring on a cylinder and I get codes P0306 and P0316. Finally took it to ford and had a diagnostic check ran. Everything on the top end was in working order. The tech even put a known working coil on 6 and nothing changed. I was told that it's either an intake or valve issue on that cylinder. But no definite answer to problem.
Fast forward to yesterday. I got a wild hair at lunch and went out and started truck. Pulled injector plug off of 6. No change to the way it was running. I did the same for 5, 7, 8, 1, and 2. All of which made a big difference in the way it ran. It was obviously misfiring with no fuel to cylinder. This gave me the idea to swap 5 and 6 when I got home to see if the issue followed the injector from 6. I did NOT. I pulled the plug on 5 and got the obvious change in the way it ran. So there is definitely something going on at cylinder 6 that I cannot figure out.
PCM, bad intake, bad valve? I'm not rich so a trip to ford for repair is gonna have to wait. Truck seems to run fine when driving except for slight hesitation during acceleration.
I am having a minor problem with my 05 F150 Lariat. Under light acceleration going up a slight grade the truck sometimes shudders (vibrates?). If I let off the gas or accelerate slightly it stops. At first I thought it was a feedback loop with the electronic throttle so I had the dealer reflash the computer but that didn't fix it. I've noticed that it happens right about the time the torque converter locks (looking at the tach) and I'm sure it has something to do with torque converter locking up and then disengaging continuously. Funny thing, it seems to happen frequently on the same hill at the same speed. What was done to fix it?
View 14 RepliesI just got a 2006 ford F250 lariat fx4,and it's already at the shop.. when cold start it has some white smoke, but once I get up to highway speeds the truck jerks and bucks. turbo is putting out normal boost. I've changed oil and filters along with fuel filters. also put on a new serpentine belt and pulley, air filter and have everything cleaned real good. the truck is acting like it's starving for fuel. FICM or injectors ?
View 14 RepliesMy 2012 Santa Fe GLS 2.4L jerks and bucks while coasting. When you let go of the gas pedal the car would jerk. Is that normal for the car. The dealer could not duplicate the problem.
View 10 Replies2008 GS460. 100K miles
I have noticed when I accelerate on a entrance ramp to the highway I notice the RPM meter jerks a little like it's trying to suck for gas or something else. I can feel it in the car too. This is the only time I have noticed this. I have replaced the spark plugs about 5K miles ago.
I did bring it into the dealership a few months ago to get the fuel pump replaced as I noticed a hissing noise under the drivers side read door. They said fuel pumps rarely go bad on the Lexus. The mechanic did some fuel pressure tests and said everything looks good. He also said noise is the return line back to the pump.
Only happens with following sequence:
Accelerate up to 50's mph, let off accelerator, then re-accelerate..especially on an incline. Get a rough jerk motion until I either let off the accelerator or accelerate hard through it. It doesn't seem to occur when the Overdrive is on. No codes are thrown.
Been to two shops, one a general shop to diag the engine and to tranny shop but neither was sure. I guess I'll have to go to the dealer but I was curious what others think of the problem.
E 350 with a 5.8 drive ability headache 94 E 350 with a 5.8. about 1/2 throttle or under quick acceleration it bucks violently and will die if you don't let up on the throttle. This all started when it was run out of fuel. I found the condenser wire was shorted to its own body. Causing the PCM fuse to blow. I have since replaced the condenser. Same problem exists. I have replaced the map sensor with a known good one, same with the O2 sensor.
The TPS is in range and goes through its range smoothly (this was done on my scanner) Also replaced the fuel pump either due to the fuse blowing or running it out of fuel it wasn't working. Fuel pressure is 30 to 32 psi. I've checked the EGR for leaks and proper operation. I have noticed its very hard to start when its cold. Someone has had problems with it in the past as cat is new and i have noticed some things have been removed or replaced recently. The van was just purchased a few weeks ago by my buddy.
2004 F150 XLT 4X4, 5.4, 142,000 miles... Plugs had been changed at around 75,000 miles... Shell gas used 99% of the time.
Shudders and jerks going up inclines (big or small). Bad gas is being reported at all the local stations...Started using Sea foam and Lucas fuel line cleaner/ethanol treatment. After three tanks of that, I ran tank down till low fuel came on, kept driving, and no more shudders/jerks and ran great while low fuel light was on.
OK...decided to fill tank with Non ethanol gas this time (not Shell gas), added Sea foam and Lucas fuel line cleaner, and shakes, shudders and jerks all the time now.
Before no check engine lights came on but for once when I romped on the pedal once to blow it out, but it went off once I let off. Today going to work, entering traffic, engine light came on, blinked and stayed on. Truck now shudders and jerks all the time when I give it gas, and can only drive like Paw Paw to keep if from doing that.
Local shop ran test and #7 cylinder is not firing and two lean fuel notices. It will be Tuesday before they can check and if needed, replace coil on #7 cylinder.
I'm thinking of installing a new Fuel Pump Control Modulator as per a thread I read here, but only after they check/replace the coil. AND ALSO...turning the OD off did stop the shutters/jerks.
I have a 2004 f150 fx4. My truck starts to jerk around 50-55 mph at 1100 rpms and again at 80 mph.
View 3 Replies2001-F150 5.4 Eng. bucking/stumble. I think my problem is slightly different than what I am reading about. Here is what I get (125k miles):
* Engine only bucks/stumbles intermittently and not at idle or at harder acceleration (this bucking is really harsh and makes the truck feel like a learner trying to drive a manual transmission and it is jumping down the street). The engine stumble is not a regular timing such as a cylinder going out and staying out for a period of time. It is quite a random pattern to the jumping
* Originally thought it was humidity related, but now I realize it happens in any climate
* No stumble in neutral at any rpm... only at a stop if I put it in a power brake load.
* When the stumble shows up, it seems like the throttle is around 10-25% (my best guess)
* Sometimes goes days without issue, but sometimes every ride and virtually every acceleration.
* Normally no stumbling at highway speeds, unless going up a hill.
* Every time it stumbles, it can be eliminated by either backing off on the accelerator some, or hitting the accelerator harder.
* No engine codes or CEL has ever come on
* Fuel mileage appears to be the same before and after the trouble started
Here is what I have done to try to correct it:
-> Fuel related (bad gas)... tried to run the tank as close to empty and fill it with fuel from different stations... when this didn't work, I have added HEET to it to dry up any water in tank.
-> Fuel delivery... replaced the fuel filter... seemed to work for one day, but then the gremlins came back.
-> Fuel delivery... ran multiple injector cleaners through tanks of gas.
-> Intake... replaced the filter.
-> Electrical... I don't believe this is related, but my battery died... parts store tested the system and stated the alternator was bad... replaced it, and took the old one to the parts store for bench testing and it was 100% OK... even thought the old showed OK, I left in the new one as a precaution. Only other item was a set of plug changes around 30k miles ago... I think I put in the super duper Bosch plugs with a lifetime warranty.
Current thinking and items I don't understand:
A) The bucking is so severe, it appears to be a random harsh loss of either fuel or ignition. A component that has failed electrically should give me a fault code with this level of severity. No trouble codes or indicators to electrically sense this disturbance...
B) For the fuel path, the most likely item is bad gas and I emptied my tank by running it as close to empty as possible and then used different gas and HEET to eliminate water. THIS MIGHT STILL BE THE CAUSE???
C) Another one for the fuel path is an intermittent fuel pump electrical connection or a weak pump from a pressure point. But if this is the cause, then why does it dissappear upon harder acceleration?
D) One last fuel thought is injectors... perhaps one or more have a range of delivery that they don't work properly... but this doesn't make much sense as at idle and harder accels are fine
E) From an ignition standpoint, perhaps I have failing COP's. I have not just gone out an replaced them due to my limited budget and the difficulty I read about changing them. Again, if one of these is failing in an either open or short condition, the computer should set a code for a misfire for the related cylinders. I get nothing. Hence my hesitation in making this change so far.
One thing i don't understand from the various posts is that the cops can fail under loading. what makes this happen as electrically, i don't think they can detect a load or not? it is hard for me to also understand why my truck would allow me to back off on the throttle or hit it harder and the issue disappears.
I have a 2006 F150 4x4. When the engine an transmission is cold it jerks/ Bogs when it shifts. After it warms up it doesn't jerk to bad sometimes but you can still notice it. Also when it shifts the RPM's drop low causing it to bog and jerk. RPM's will go from 1600 to about 800 when it shifts. It is and auto transmission. Today I wanted to try something so I pressed the button to turn the over drive off. Well it shift real good with the OD Off. Seem like with the OD Off it keeps the RPM's up a little higher so it doesn't bog and jerk. I put an Edge Programmer on it, but that didn't work. Still does the same thing with or without the programmer. I changed all my spark plug and coil packs. Truck goes great until it shifts.
View 1 RepliesStarts good cold and hot. Taking off like a grandpa on an evening drive don't notice a thing. Only codes that keep coming up are 2614 and 2617 which are cmp and ckp open curcuit codes and a software incompatibility code for FICM which is due to the updated software in the fresh FICM I installed. HPO pressures are good, has boost, idles smooth, revs nice when in park. New injectors (cause it was running rough especially cold before) and CMP and CKP (because of the above codes and didn't change)and ICP and IPR (last 2 installed because of HPO codes that are gone now with the IPR and ICP). Fuel pressure is 65psi (updated spring). When you step on it while driving it sputters and bucks like it's out of fuel, let off the throttle a bit and it purrs like a kitten. I'm a little stumped. I think it puffs a little white/blue smoke while it bucks.. not much tho. and it comes in little puffs. Took off filler cap and there is almost no blow by.
View 6 RepliesIts a 2007 f150 v6. has 55,000 miles. just got her new tires for Christmas. the truck has doing this for awhile. when you use the brakes the pedal pulsates and the truck jerks back and forth. Feels like bent rotor or something. I've been doing it about a year keeps getting worse. Last year I had the rotors turned and put new pads on got a little better. But not for long continued to get worse again. So I just bought new rotors and pads and still sucks. I thought it could be a bent rim so I just rotated the tires and still no better. Where should i go from here? calipers? something in the front end loose?
View 4 RepliesMy 2005 PT Cruiser Limited 2.4 Turbo bucks under acceleration and had displayed the codes for a bad Map Sensor, Throttle Positioning Sensor, and Oxygen Sensor. I replaced both Oxygen Sensors, Map Sensor and the TPS. Each time I replaced a sensor and took it out for a test drive it ran great. The next day my wife is on her way to work and I am on the phone with her, she accelerates to get on the freeway and the bucking is back. The codes it displays now are P2074, P1697 & P0038. All the previous codes except P0038 disappeared when I disconnected the ground cable for 15 minutes after the repair. I start the car every morning for her and run the heater for 15 minutes as it is in the 30's here in the morning and so I replicate that before I take it on a test drive after completing a repair so the conditions are the same.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2010 with about 166k miles. I am getting a slight hesitation at slight acceleration or constant speed. It does not matter if it's on highway or freeway speeds. Now I am not sure if this in junction with me changing the PCV valve, cleaning the EGR pipe, or cleaning the TB for carbon recently. It started happening a week after it though.
View 19 RepliesI just received a 2001 Town & Country from my mom. It has 110,000 miles on it., Well taken care of vehicle. But...I've noticed a problem while I'm driving it. If I let off the gas a little the car has a couple slight quick jerks....at first I thought it was just letting off the gas but today just driving "normal" stretch of road I noticed it jerking while accelerating a little. Has a lot of pickup but what is this???? Is it the transmission??? Is it something in the engine. I don't know where to begin to take it...repair shop or transmission shop. What it could be??? All fluid levels are normal and normal color.
View 9 Replies08' 4x4. I changed the front brake hoses because the truck felt like it was dragging a bit, when i would hit the gas from a stop, that seemed to work, I also changed the front rotors because when braking I was getting a pulsing feeling in the brake pedal. that fixed that.
Now I feel like there is still a bit of a slight drag when I'm at a stop and let off the brake. when im on level ground the truck creeps forward from a stop when letting off the brake, on the slightest incline the truck wont go forward at all.
Do the truck want to move forward on a tiny incline or no?