Same brush is in the cylinder. I lost a cleaning brush in the cylinder head and cant get it out. Im sick to my stomach. I had a small magenta but it wasn't strong enough to get it and any stronger wont fir thru the cylinder taper. Any suggestions besides taking it to a mechanic and pulling the head. Hers is a pic ......
View 12 Replies My 2004 f 150 heritage 4.6 l the oil pressure dropped all the way down i was in a drive thru and it was clattering really bad so i pulled into the parking lot and shut it down pulled the stick plenty of oil i re started about 30 minutes later and it pumped oil pressure. So I started on my way home the gauge would go to normal and when I would touch the brakes and let off the gas it would drop and the oil light would come on and the engine would start rattling and would have no power, I would pull over and do it over again and finally i just called a tow truck.
So I changed the oil new motorcraft filter and 5/30 motor oil , it started up made all kind of noise but i got oil pressure and quieted down i went to drive it and as soon as it started to roll the pressure dropped and the oil light came on and it started to rattle again. Whats happening is the pump going out ? can it be replaced with out pulling the engine? the truck has 200,000 miles on it
06 F150 fx4 has cly 7 miss fire cly 6 has oil on plug .Check engine light comes on only if you step into the gas, The oil was low. If you drive normal the check engine light does not come on, but you can fill the miss when in gear. Change the plugs an coil add oil still no change.
View 4 RepliesI'm working on my little brother's 2006 F-150 FX400 Crew Cab. Last night he lowered the front passenger half way down to talk to a friend. He then tried to put the window back up. The window very slowly went up 3/4 of the way then stopped, slowly started to lower, then dropped down into the door. He was only using the window switch on the driver's door and it was raining at the time. I saw a lot of issues posted about window regulators and motors but none that matched this.
View 7 RepliesTo make a long story short, after replacing the timing chains, guides, and tensioners, the right side cylinder head began running very loud. Think of the usual chatter associated with these engines and multiply it. It was constant, from start up to shut down, and it increased with rpm. Thought at first it may be caused by debris in the oil clogging the lifter(s). After changing the oil multiple times along with different additives and driving roughly 600 miles, the noise persisted. Taking a look down the oil filler tube with a flashlight and with the engine running, the head looked dry. Safe to say at this point I was starving the head of oil.
Removed the valve cover. Removed the rearmost camshaft cap. Sure enough, the oil passage was completely blocked. Inspected everything and there was signs of running dry (minor discoloration, dried oil spots... but no real damage and no play anywhere. Put it all back together and the truck runs quieter than the day a bought it.
Here's the camshaft cap:
This is exactly what it looked like after removal. The material blocking the passage is hard and bridle like plastic.
I have a 2004 2.7 liter toyota tacoma with 135000 miles. the head cracked and was leaking coolant into the #2 cylinder. it wasn't catastrophic and was still running with just a stumbling idle at start up when cold. That said i took it apart, found the crack and I am in the process of replacing the head at home, my mechanic did all the diagnosis work.i don't remember overheating or when the head could have cracked.
Question is.....what should i check or replace while the head is off so that i don't crack my new head??there were never puddles of coolant under the truck. I just don't want to replace my head and crack a new one.
Gotta 04 Lariet supercrew F150, leather buckets. How do I get head rests out of seat? I raise em up, squeeze button. Won't come out.
View 3 RepliesOn my 2004 5.4 I have removed my right cylinder head for replacement. There is a sensor on this head beneath the intake manifold. When removing the sensor I turned the plastic connector about 1/4 turn or less prior to turning the actual sensor. What sensor is this and would I have broken it by this mistake? It did not make a sound, it just turned a little on the base of the sensor.
View 1 RepliesHave a 2006 F150, head gasket leaking bad. It is the drivers side head. How many hours this job is? and does the engine have to come out or the cab have to come off? Has a 5.4L Engine.
View 3 RepliesCompressor won't engage and cool. Mechanic checked system and said ac control head is bad and it cost like 800.00. But when I go and search the part they are like 150-200... Did I miss understand what part is called. He said he checked the compressor with a scanner and the compressor will not communicate with the head... said he thinks compressor shorted out the head. He also jumped the compressor but it still would not work.. Any clue what part I should look for?
View 5 RepliesLike the title says I dropped about a 2 inch piece of small washer fluid hose in my cylinder while evacuating the oil from it . Will it damage the valves If I ran it? Any way to remove it without removing the head?
View 14 Replies2004 New Body F150 5.4L
Removed all cops, plugs, intake manifold and driver side head to repair bad valve. Removed Left side cat pipes as well. Had to disconnect most of upper engine harness and had to remove cpm and battery.
Repaired all mechanical issues and reconnected all electrical connectors and now when I turn the key to start the red security light on dash is still blinking steadily and I get no crank no start situation and it blows #34 PCM fuse which is injector/fuel fuse as soon as hit start.
Here are some things I have done trying to trouble shoot.
Battery shows 13.65 V
Unplugged FPDM back on rear frame rail and disconnected far left harness (looking from front) from PCM (should be engine harness), both the smaller plug that plugs into another harness and the main plug to the PCM.
Now when I turn on the key the security light goes out, the dash display says engine fail safe mode and the motor will turn over when I turn the key. This is still with the #34 fuse blown.
If I plug the engine harness back into the PCM, same no click no start.
If I leave engine harness unplugged from PCM and plug FPDM back in and turn key now it goes back to no crank no start and the security light blinks rapidly.
Only way I can get anything to turn over is far left harness disconnected, both plugs and the fdpm disconnected. Display says Engine Fail Safe Mode, and the security light goes out when I turn the key to start. I'm at a standstill as to what to do. The truck started fine prior to me taking it down for service.
2005 f150 xlt supercrew. Battery dead overnight. New battery installed, and it was drained after a few days use, then an overnight sit. I hooked up my meter as required to check for an amp draw. 5.87a draw. Disconnected alternator, no change. Started pulling fuses. Fuse #107 Power Door Lock(BSM) pulled drops down to 1.04a. Radio power fuse pulled also, drops to .033a. I have had a problem with the 6 disc changer trying to load, read, eject etc so I will be changing out the head unit. I am stumped as to what to try for the 107 fuse though.
View 14 RepliesLooking for the wiring diagram for the steering wheel controls for the head unit, mainly which wire is volume. I bought a new head unit for my 04 f150 truck and cant find the wiring diagram online to figure it out. I know there are 3 separate connections.
1 main one for power, gnd, ant, speakers, etc..
1 for the subwoofer if your truck came with it which mine did.
1 for the steering wheel controls if your truck came with it which mine did.
I want to know what the different color wires are connected to on the steering wheel control connection. i have had no luck searching online for about an hour. I know I could buy an adapter but really only want the volume to work and figured if I could just tap into that one wire and connect it to my new head unit.
whats the best way to clean a 97 f150 5.4 cyl head
View 2 Replies2004 F150 XLT 5.4l (3v)... Problem started with misfire on No.4 and then I went through the tedious job of changing every plug (all 8 broke) and coils in an attempt to resolve the problem. After the changes I had misfire on no.1 and no.2, so I changed the injector on no.2 and coil on no.1 again + had broken pigtail wires on No.4 and No.1. Now I remain with a P0301 misfire on No.1. The problem won't go away, its fine idling, but misses bad when driving. The Snapon scanner reads fine for all injectors and compression reads ok also. The mechanics are baffled and what else could it be? (rail? computer? intake gasket?)
View 4 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford E150 4.2l. My cylinder head temp sensor was dangling but still connected to the sensor... the connector was loosed from the filament but was still connected by exposed metal pins.
I figured I would replace it like i did to my ECT by the Water Pump. So I pulled the connector out and it started to leak...a little. and when I put the socket on it I instantly broke the sensor flush with the Cylinder Head.
I researched on here and found many people believe the CHT gives info to the Dashboard Gauge and the ECT is used by the ECU. I thought that was correct because I had ECT readings from my scantool...and my Dash Gauge never worked. When I found the dangling CHT I figured it was never working.
So I JB welded CHT hole. figuring i would fix it properly later. I replaced the ECT and expected everything to go back to normal.. No gauge reading on dash and a scan reading with no codes.
I want to replace the CHT sensor properly. Do I HAVE to remove the manifolds. Or do you think its safe to drain the coolant and drill it out. Its easy access. Im worried about all the tiny pieces getting into narrow passage ways.
I am almost 100% going to drill out. Manifold sounds like hell and its getting cold. What sensor controls what? Can I drill it out safely?
So I've had this WAAG brush guard laying around for a few years and figured it was time to do something with it. Of course it was bought with no mounting brackets. I had found a lower gear from a Fisher MM1 plow. Tossed the in the truck and started from there.
Broke out the cherry picker and started lining stuff up. Drilled some holes and bolted it up. It's all bolted up but I still need to take a piece of 2x3 angle and weld it to the lower plow mounts to tie the bottoms together and create a step.
My boss drives an '08 F-150 with a 5.4. The other week he had a horrid shuddering issue, misfire, and some known transmission issues so he took it to a shop. Supposedly the heads were pulled, heli-coiled, #7 coil was replaced, new plugs, trans rebuilt...a whole laundry list of stuff was done. He comes to me with complaints of a shudder in OD in low RPM primarily and a flashing check engine light with a #7 misfire code. I popped the hood to find no coil had been replaced (mechanics around here are REAL sketchy) so I told him to change up a new coil and I would throw it on to see if that fixes the issue.
Other than that, smooth idle and decent power with no shuddering except once in a while just coming into OD in low RPM...so around 40~ish and not throttling it hard. If he gets into it and blasts through the gears it has no shudder. I said the miss could be the whole issue, starting with the plugs and known misfire coil (#7) would be a good place to start.
A quick inspection in ~10 degree snow showed me the heads do not look like they were removed. The mechanic steam cleaned the engine, so looking for smudgy prints won't work. I know on older Fords the head gaskets stick out a little past the heads...do they on these too? He is questioning if the engine was even touched, and rightfully so in my opinion. Pulling the plugs would be the next step, but I need heat and tools for that.
Had a miss in the #5 cylinder on a 2005 F-150 5.4 Triton. Had it hooked up to see which code was given and the tech said that #5 was the culprit. Taking no chances, I purchased a new plug and coil pack. I installed them and it ran great until I got up to around 70mph and then it started dong the same thing it was doing earlier. I took it back to the place that checked the codes and it came back as the #5 cylinder misfiring again. I am not sure how this is possible after replacing the plug and coil pack. Is there some way that the plug that fires just ahead of #5 is fouled out and causing the #5 cylinder to get too much fuel transferred to that cylinder? Or is there a possible short somewhere causing that cylinder to misfire and ruin the coil pack? I am stumped on this for the moment anyway.
View 8 RepliesI sea Foamed the truck today. I will be pulling my heads most likely and am doing a few things beforehand just in case. History: low compression and misfire on #2. Have changed plugs and swapped out cops. Paper against exhaust pipe sucks in and pops against the pipe intermittently. Seems like intake valve.
Anyways, poured in a whole damn bottle through the brake vacuum line. The engine sputtered a bit but never stalled. I saw almost no smoke after a whole bottle!! I thought with 156000 miles it would smoke like mad. I have taken very good care of this truck and changed oil every 3 to 5 with synthetic 5-20 since new. Could it be that clean???