Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Broken Locking Tab On COP Connector
Jul 2, 2017
In removing the COPs on my 2004 F150 Lariat 5.4L for a spark plug change, I noticed that the locking tab on one of the electrical connectors that plugs into the COP is broken. The previous owner had a zip tie on it to keep it on. Can I purchase a new connector and splice it on so that I don't have to use a zip tie? If so, what is the part number?
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Well, it seems the cover on my trailer connector got broken off. The cover locks the trailer plug into the truck side. The connector on the truck is/was supplied by Ford. Now the dealer say NLA, only 2005 and up. Truck is 99 F250 SD. Plug is 4/7 way. Where can I locate a direct plug-in replacement? I do not want to be cutting and splicing.
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I changed out my plugs. The plug connector on the #3 coil no longer snaps on. My only option is to use a small ziptie to hold it in place. Can cut it off and wired a new plug end on..
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For our new pontoon with surge brakes I need to add reverse lights to the wiring harness to deactivate the surge brakes while backing up. What is the proper way of doing this? BTW this is on an 06 F150 XLT with factory 7 pin harness.
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The 3 pin connector that connects to the alternator, I broke the clip. Do the local auto stores sell that connector in a pigtail form so I can just cut the broken one off and solder the new one in? I'm sure someone has broken that clip before.
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So, instead of pushing the throttle cable back and then off, I tried to pop it off and broke the little tab. I've been trying to look for a replacement, but all I'm coming up with is an entire throttle body. Not too bad, but would still like to fix it for much cheaper. It's a 2002 F150 with a 5.4L.
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My trailers lights aren't working at all- so frustrated right now!! I've checked all the fuses and those are good, I've got no power back to the 7 pin connector...
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Changed the spark plugs on my 2006 Camry today. Everything went smoothly and quickly except for the fact that I broke all the little keeper clips on the connector plugs that connect to the coil packs. I called my Toyota dealers and one said I had to replace the entire wire harness. The other found the connector plugs for around $8 each. Will the broken clips be a problem with the connectors eventually coming off from vibration if I don't replace them? I'm not sure how to replace the connectors if I go that route. How to go about replacing the connector plugs?
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my front brakes have been locking up here recently. I think it my be due to a blockage in the resovior. I had taken it apart upon the first spell of it locking up, had my buddy press the brake pedal a few times with the lines from the res disconnected and it seemed to be be a little clogged at first and then freed up once it was stepped on hard a few times. So i reassembled the system and bled the brakes out and it seemed to be fine for about 70 miles or so. Then out of no where it started locking up once again.
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I have a 2004 f150 with 2 of the 4 A/C vents are broken, I just want to replace them. I figured the dealership would be a rip off and I didnt see any on ebay. And how to take them out?
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When I put truck in 4wd rear end starts locking up. Take out of 4wd its fine. Just put 2 quarts of fluid. They didn't have the 75-140 so I put in 85-140 was that bad. Had rear rebuilt a year ago. Mechanic said he had to put a different gear assembly because ford didn't make the original any more. Ever since this was done rear just never seemed right. Now in 4wd if I go straight it's fine but as soon as I make a turn rear locks up almost coming to a grinding stop.
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this is my brothers truck 05 f-150 4x4, i put brakes front and back and flushed the system about six months ago now. the other day when he was coming home from college the front passenger tire locked up. he drove it home and i went over took it apart nothing was sticking put it back together and it was fine. now today he call it stuck again so i just pulled it apart, pads are now purple from the heat, pins are free, caliper moves i put a small piece of wood in it and had him press the brakes the caliper moved out and i pused it back in, reinstalled everything and its not stuck no more. what do you think is causing this? my uncle says it could be the abs box acting up, when he bought the truck my dad made him buy the extended warrenty but he wont pay the 100 dollar deductible because this past winter we all went out in the two foot of snow and he got stuck so i pulled him out and our dad says thats what f$ucked his brakes up so now his is pissed. so how can i fix this for him? oh it only has 42k on it
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So I have had my FX4 for almost 10 years now. I have an xtra cab, bought new summer 2004 in Connecticut. Bought it had 5 miles on odometer, as of today has almost 117k miles. We just relocated this past weekend from CT to Manatee County, Florida, my wife followed me down in her 2010 Escape. Both trucks ran perfect..easy driving cruise control on 70 most of the way except for VA where there seemed to be a state trooper every 5 miles
anyway so overall I am satisfied with my truck since I've owned it. Changed oil every 4000-4500 miles without fail, 5-20 Motorcraft semi synthetic and FL-820 S filter is all it has ever seen. Engine doesnt burn/leak a drop of oil. As far as maintenace items and repairs, I looked through my records, here's what I've done:
1) rear axle rebuilt under warranty, clutch packs were shot at 60k.
2) brakes/rotors all around at about 50k, they still as of now have plenty of meat left
3) pinion seal went at about 90k
4) fly wheel had to be replaced at about 95k that was an expensive repair
5) replaced both front window regulators
6) replaced sliding rear window, under warranty, was leaking badly.
7) idler pulley replacement
8) exhaust rotted from just in front of muffler to tailpipe, replaced.
Also was told before we left CT that front coil spring was broken? I don't know about that truck suspension seems fine but will have it looked at.
Also normal maintenance did tranny flush 4x so far, fuel filter 4x so far, on 3rd set of tires, came with BFG rugged terrain, replaced at 62k with TOYO open country, they lasted 40k, now have Goodyear Wrangler LT's, so far excellent. Air filters, a light bulb here and there, and replaced battery after 6 years just to do it.
I have NOT changed the plugs yet truck does run great but I know what can and probably will happen, I feel comfortable with a dealer doing it, I'm not mechanically inclined enough to do it. I will have a little bit of a commute to work here, so I will probably get a ford Fiesta or a focus for the drive, but no way am I getting rid of this truck!
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Doing some charity work on a '04 5.4. Noticed top right idler pulley was sitting on a 45* angle, figured it was shot and decided to replace it. The bolt broke. Borrowed an Easy Out. Short version, I have a very messed up bolt hole. Tried drilling and tapping but couldn't get it to bite and was scared to go bigger. I don't know if the threaded part pulley actually mounts can be replaced and if so how to go about it. Not sure how much deeper I can drill if it can't be replaced? At a standstill.
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I am stuck with a shattered rear drivers door glass because of a thief. They got my backpack with an Ipad and misc things. Now I am trying to replace the glass myself but the dealer want big amount for the part because it comes with the track. (ridiculous!!!) Aside from replacing my ipad, backpack, and other irreplaceable items, this glass replacement is fubar with little info on it. Is it possible to just replace the glass like any other car???
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I have an 05 f150 that quit while driving, towed it home n started it up but was running rough n noisy in the front of motor. figured it jumped time n i would put a new timing set in and phasers. upon removal of passengers side valve cover i found 1 rocker out, 1 broken and 1 off the valve spring with a bad roller. the keepers were off the valve and the valve is in the cylinder. timing chain is very loose and there is a broken piece down in towards crank sprocket. did the timing jump cause 3 rockers to be damaged n 1 broken valve all in one cylinder. Haven't removed the drivers side. Was looking for parts to repair and they seem to not be many options out there for the 3 valve motor.
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2007 F-150 Screw 5.4... Successful spark plug change. Well, sort of. I disconnected some of the coil clips/wires from the coils during the operation. Upon installation of the wires/clips, one of the clips did not 'click' into place.
Thinking the clip needed to be pushed/pulled, I bent the clip a bit and it snapped off! Being the slow learner that I am, a second clip also did not 'click' in place, and you know where this is going: I have two broken clips out of 8. After those two, I was much more gentle.
So, can these clips be replaced and/or spliced in? I'm thinking about just using nylon ties to hold them in place. So far, they are staying put just by being pushed in place, but these two do not seem very secure.
In the future, what is the correct way to make sure these things 'snap' back into place if they seem to not want to cooperate?
Here's a picture of the two 'press clips' that broke off....
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My 2007 F150 5.4L would not crank at all the other morning. After checking the battery, I discovered that the ground wire to the starter was completely frayed and broken off right at the eyelet connector to the starter. I spliced it back together and the truck fired right up.
However, the check engine light suddenly appeared and I got a P0453 code which apparently indicates a high reading at the fuel pressure sensor. The CEL never appeared until the broken wire happened. I took a quick look at the fuel pressure sensor and wiring and nothing appears to be obviously broken.
One other thing I've noticed for a few weeks is a miss under load while driving. I have not seen any codes at all for the miss. I was leaning toward replacing the coil overs but now I'm wondering if the miss is related to the fuel pressure sensor.
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Ok, So, Im 40 miles from home stuck in ice and snow in a hotel.. (my wife works close by- thought it would be safer than driving in the 10 inches of snow we got 3 days in a row) so, I go to pick her up tonight and I engage 4hi.. I hear the click and the light comes on.. but no clunk of the hubs locking.. I drop it in 4 lo.. it shifts in low.. but the hubs are not locking..
I hear a ticking sound as I drive and when I put it in 2wd it goes away. I turn off the truck, turn the wheel hard both ways .. get out and I can physically turn the drive shaft and I hear the ticking in the hubs. If I read correctly when the truck is off these should be locked?
is it possible the vacuum is not releasing? I also get the groaning when I start up of the air diverter.. that im told is operated by vacuum.. so I am guessing I have a vacuum problem??
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My driver door on my 06 F150 crew cab stopped locking/unlocking recently. I purchased a new actuator and installed and it worked great. About a week later it stopped working again. But then in order to unlock the door from outside you had to turn key and pull on handle while the key was still turned. I was about to break open door again when it made a strange electronic type sound when I was leaving for work (when auto lock activated). After that it started working again - for 3-4 days. Now it stopped working again. I can open door fine from inside but lock won't stay unlocked. As soon as I release handle it locks again.
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I just bought a 2007 fx 4 with 116000 miles it has the triton 5.4. I know I test drove it good etc well I am out of town with work right now and drive it on a 400 mile trip and noticed that when you are in overdrive and going up a small incline it acts like the truck is locking up, if i get on the gas a lil and make it shift it stops.
The truck shifts smooth and everything on this truck is tight no clunks or nothing. Ihope its not the transmission and sometimes after putting it in park and idling and turnings steering wheel it will start idling really rough . What could this be only does it speeds 50-57 like i said if i make it shift it stops....
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