My 2004 F 150 the rubber piece that goes on my brake pedal keeps on falling off after I put it back on looked it over today and did notice it does have a good size tear in one of the corners....Can I get a replacement one of these? all I need is the rubber that goes on the pedal....Would I have to go to the dealer for it?
View 3 RepliesWhat would cause the brakes on my wife's truck to be stiff and not hold?
View 14 RepliesHad a lift done (Rough Country, after reading through these forums) on my 04 F150 Newer Body Style 4x4. Now, sometimes the pedal gets harder to push on until it won't go down at all and the brakes (only the front) start dragging. It goes away after awhile (my rotors are shot and I'm going to have to replace them after I figure out what is going on) but always comes back. The brake lines have been bled and I'm having a shop bleed them again tomorrow (that's what they said the issue was) just in case.
View 11 RepliesIn my 2008 F150 with 108,000 miles, I am having a vibration in the brake pedal. When I am stopping or at a dead stop. I first thought it might be the rotors needing to be turned, but the vibration seems to go away when I turn off the a/c.
View 11 Replies08 XLT 4x4 Had a rotor slid freeze up last fall and eat a rotor. 39000 miles. Took apart and cleaned up and lubed, new pads and rotors both fronts. Now have pulsating pedal at 48000. Do the rear might need attention now or still the front? I never use the E brake.
View 2 RepliesSo the fuel pump module on my truck is falling apart, and I figured I might as well replace it....
View 10 RepliesOk, I changed my front brake pads and rotors last week and since then everytime I get in the truck and drive for about the first 2 or 3 miles when I push the brake pedal it feels like my ABS sytem is activating. Then it stops and the ABS light comes on but the brake pedal stops pulsating when depressed. Is my ABS going bad or did I possibly do something wrong? I have changed the rotors and pads before without problems....
View 3 RepliesI have a 88 ranger supercab 2.9l 4x4 with the fm146 trans and recently I have had a problem with my clutch master cylinder rod falling off my clutch pedal. I bought the new bushing and put it on and it was fine until yesterday. It wants to keep coming off. Is there a clip of some sort to hold it on or no. I looked at a few at the salvage yard and they did not have a clip just the bushing. So what do I do?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2008 Ranger Sport 4x4. I noticed yesterday that when I stepped on the brake pedal it felt like nothing was there until I step a little harder then it was like full brake application. The truck only has 63000 on it. Then every once in awhile it would be normal ie very light brake application and slows like it should. Then back to same issue... Any thoughts about this??
View 8 RepliesTest drove an 08 V10 today. Brakes seemed to work fine and didn't lock up but I felt no pulsating in the pedal and heard no chirping of the tires like most ABS systems do. Is this normal? Anything special to look for in used late model V10s?
View 1 RepliesThe truck stops fine but the brake pedal is very low, not sponge. According to several of the f-150 forums, this is common to most f150's. I have read where owners have done the obvious things i.e., master cylinders, pads, and rotors. I have even read that many have solved this by extending the rod from the vac booster to master. What is a fix for what seems a common complaint?
View 13 RepliesHaving ABS issue with my 2004 Ford Escape XLT.
A bit of background information: every now and then (usually when decelerating from around 35-40mph), I will get a pulsating/knocking feeling from my brake pedal. At first, I thought it was the ABS, as I was told about a year ago that the ABS tone ring was broken. The more the problem manifested itself, the more I got to study it a bit. The pulsating/knocking in the pedal is usually accompanied by a very dry rubbing sound, and both the sound and the pulsating seem to be in direct relation to the motion of the wheels. I took it to the local garage this weekend and they recommended changing out the rear brakes - this made sense to me, as they haven't been changed out for as long as I have had the car.
Got the car back about an hour ago - on my way home, the pulsating came back when I was coasting into a stop light. The pulsating seems to have no affect whatsoever on the stopping distance of the car - a few times when it has happened, I have mashed the pedal, and the car comes to a quick stop just as you would want it to. After coming out of a complete stop, the brakes will work completely fine for a while - there seems to be no real rhyme or reason to what makes it happen.
2008 Hyundai Azera 3.8L V6 .... Purchased in 2009 with 11,000 miles.
In early November 2012, I experienced occasional episodes of a low brake pedal, which did not affect the stopping power of the vehicle. Most of the time, the car stops and behaves normally. However, once in a while, the brake pedal drops/travels farther than usual. (This is accompanied by a heart pumping, "I'm about to blow through this stop sign", moment.) I had a full brake inspection performed at my usual automotive repair shop. Nothing was found to be wrong with the system. Linings were 30% front, 90% rear (rears were done at one year prior, at 48,000 miles). Odometer at the time was 64,850.
I returned to the shop one week later with the same symptoms. Again the system was inspected, and nothing was found to be wrong. Decided to replace the master cylinder as the most logical explanation of the symptoms. Drove car successfully, without symptoms, for approximately 1,600 miles.
Recently, at 66,600 miles, the same problem has returned. Returned to the shop for additional brake inspection. No faults were found in the entire braking system. No stored ABS codes. No visible fluid leaks. Fluid is clean and full. Shop contacted local Hyundai service representative, who claims that this behavior is normal for this particular vehicle. Claims that as the ABS hydraulic pump cycles, the vehicle will feel like is has no brakes (but will stop properly.)
I just recently got a 2004 f150 5.4, and it was running good it just had a random jump in RPMs low high low high, so I went to autozone and the code read it was my IAC but they said it might be my MAF sensor that was dirty so i bought MAF cleaner and cleaned the sensor and the plugs on the tps and also cleaned the throttle body and it worked no more rpm bouncing. But then I had to turn on another project. I had and took the battery out of the f150 after about 30min.
I reinstalled the battery i turned the truck on and turned on fine but i put it in gear and the gas pedal didn't response it would just go to the floor so i thought i might of damaged the gas pedal sensor so I went to my local junk yard and bought another one and same thing the mechanic down the street said i had to reprogram the computer and buy a new throttle body but i keep reading it might be the tps and I might have to calibrate it. Its my first ever Ford....
Upon start up my car totally shutdown and reset itself. While the car was shut down the brake pedal locked up and the car would not start it was completely dead.
View 2 RepliesI have two Hyundais - 2011 Sonata SE and a 2008 Santa Fe Limited. here is my problem with the Santa Fe.
Brakes: Changed front rotors and pads - rear had the rotors resurfaced and installed new pads. Still get a lot of pulsation when stepping on brake pedal. Is there anything else I should be checking?
I went to start my car this morning after not driving it for about three days and nothing happened when I pushed the start button. So I double checked to make sure it was in park, had my foot on the brake and again the car wouldn't start. The only thing that would happen is it would engage the accessories same as if I pushed the start button without having my foot on the brake pedal. I did notice that the brake pedal felt unusually hard as in, it would not depress more than a few millimeters. I decided to push on the brake pedal with considerable amount of force which resulted in it depressing maybe a few millimeters more. Then when I pushed the start button the car started up and the braked pedal sank a few inches like normal when the car first starts up. Everything was normal after this. Made a few pit stops on the way to work and the brakes felt fine and the car started perfectly normally.
I have had the car for only a week and a half. It's a 2012 isf.
I recently (July 2016) bought a 2012 2.0T Limited with 14K miles. Got an awesome deal on it and really love the car. About two months ago the car had a total loss of power/boost. I took it into the dealer and they performed a wastegate actuator adjustment (something I will be doing on my own now if it becomes a problem again). Now at about 21k miles I'm having a different issue. Here is what's happening:
Accelerating from a stop the car feels as if it's falling out of gear intermittently. Once it happens and I press the gas more/floor it, the car doesn't respond. If I let off the gas and then press it again, the car will then start to accelerate again. On the highway cruising at 70ish, the same thing happens and it even oscillates with constant throttle like its down/up shifting. The ESC light came after a 20 mile highway trip of this oscillation. No CEL. When I got off the freeway, the navigation screen said there may be a problem and I should press the bluelink button.
When this is happening the cruise control either doesn't work at all or the "cruise" light will come on but I can't set a speed. Tonight I noticed in the rear view mirror that the brake light stays on or even flutters after I brake which corresponds to when the cruise is or isnt working as well as when the car intermittently falls out of gear/oscillates falling out of gear with constant throttle. If I notice the brake light is on without actually braking, I can take my foot and pull the brake pedal towards me which turns off the brake light and then the car seems to work correctly as well as the cruise control. The car is driveable but definitely something is wrong.
I should mention that I checked the voltage for the wastegate actuator and it is 3.97v which I believe is within tolerance. All of these issues with no CEL.
I have replaced the front rotors, calibers, pads and brake lines. I went through the process of bleeding the brakes by using the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front and left front.
I did this about 4 times - process was to pump the break until the pedal was hard then my son kept his foot on the pedal while I release the bleeder value. During this process I kept the master cylinder full.
Took the car out and the pedal went right to the floor when applying the brakes. The car did stop but not as I had expected. So what have I done incorrectly here? Is there something else to check?
I have an 04 6.0 psd and if I am stopped in drive with the brake pedal down I can't turn my steering wheel at all. If the truck is in park and my foot off the brake pedal I can turn the steering wheel both ways just fine. When I am driving I don't have any problems with the steering. I have checked the power steering fluid and it is full. This makes it kind of hard when I am trying to pull in and out of parking spots. What could be causing this and what the solution would be to fix it?
View 10 RepliesI don't know whats up with my new truck, its a 04 f250 scsb, 4x4, 5.4l with 61k orig miles on it. Truck will stop on a dime, has NO pedal sinking, but it takes about 3/4 of the pedals travel to apply pressure to the pads and have the truck stop, sometimes if I push the pedal down then let up and push it again the pedal wont travel as far, I just flushed the system today, no air in the lines, is there a bleeder on the abs? truck has 4 wheel abs...
View 14 Replies