Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Battery Dead Overnight / Changing Out Head Unit?
Jan 3, 2016
2005 f150 xlt supercrew. Battery dead overnight. New battery installed, and it was drained after a few days use, then an overnight sit. I hooked up my meter as required to check for an amp draw. 5.87a draw. Disconnected alternator, no change. Started pulling fuses. Fuse #107 Power Door Lock(BSM) pulled drops down to 1.04a. Radio power fuse pulled also, drops to .033a. I have had a problem with the 6 disc changer trying to load, read, eject etc so I will be changing out the head unit. I am stumped as to what to try for the 107 fuse though.
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Looking for the wiring diagram for the steering wheel controls for the head unit, mainly which wire is volume. I bought a new head unit for my 04 f150 truck and cant find the wiring diagram online to figure it out. I know there are 3 separate connections.
1 main one for power, gnd, ant, speakers, etc..
1 for the subwoofer if your truck came with it which mine did.
1 for the steering wheel controls if your truck came with it which mine did.
I want to know what the different color wires are connected to on the steering wheel control connection. i have had no luck searching online for about an hour. I know I could buy an adapter but really only want the volume to work and figured if I could just tap into that one wire and connect it to my new head unit.
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Earlier this year had dead battery after sitting for a week. 5 year old battery so bought new one battery still goes dead randomly (overnight), instead of playing radio for a few minutes after key off, dash displays "system off to conserve power" ran it thru local repair place (ex ford dealer) nothing found. Voltage 14v at 1800 rpm, lights on". STILL goes dead randomly...
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Like the title says, if it sits over night the battery will be about dead. The cables were replaced 6 months ago and are in good shape. I could not find and bad spots on the wires I can get to. One odd thing to note, with the key out of the switch I opened the passenger door to check the glove box light and the truck started chiming like I had opened the drivers door with the key still in the switch. Would that indicate maybe the key switch could be the issue?
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I've tried putting new batteries in my mini van and the battery goes dead after a day or 2. I've had it to the dealer before and they said it's a bad battery. which clearly it's not. I had a meter between the grounds on the battery and pulled all fuses under the hood and no change. I'm a quadriplegic and it's a nightmare when I go out with my aid to go to a doctors appointment and my van is dead. I don't have any money for the dealer again. I don't think the chrysler dealer even looked at it and took advantage of my situation. Its a 2003 Town country with only 29,000 miles. could it be the alternator drawing power when the car is off?
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So I got a 2008 model, only owner. It has 107K miles. I've noticed something the last couple months now. When I park the car in the garage after coming home from work it has a full charge, about 3 bars below top, it's at the max of the blue color.
When I start the car in the morning it still displays the same level. But after driving down the road about 3 blocks it seems to update slowly and drops the level, sometimes down to the brown, about 3 bars high. The car will run rough for a while almost every morning now since it's not using the hybrid battery to smooth things out.
Ever since owning the car I've noticed it can run rough sometimes normally, like when you're at a train crossing and the battery drops to 2 or 3 and the engine powers on to charge it up a bit. When I drive away you hear the engine a lot louder than usual as it seems to be running on engine only until the hybrid battery gets sufficiently charged and you feel a lack of power as you accelerate.
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So I went out to start my truck today after setting for 2 weeks and nothing. (2008 F150 XLT 4.6 31k miles) bought may 08. Anyway no lights or anything, battery was dead as a doorknob. I was just wondering if my battery was on its way out or if I have other problems. Oh and something else I couldn't get it out of park (column shift) until I hooked a battery charger to it. I was going to pull it out of the barn to jump it off but couldn't get out of park.
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I changed the battery 6 months ago and twice it has failed to crank since. Is there something draining the battery?
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I have locked my keys in truck and the battery is dead. How do I get either the door or the hood open. 2005 super crew king ranch....
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I have a 2004 Eddie Bauer with 16k miles. The AC control unit has randomly gone dead twice. When I turn off the truck and let it sit for a while (20 min last time) it will come back on and work fine. I took it to the Ford dealer while it was dead so they would see it. They told me however, that if it works when I bring it back they wouldn't be able to work on it. What was the problem? I'm going to Parker AZ this weekend and Phoenix next weekend. I don't want it to be intermittent or crap out all together when I am there.
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I have a 2006 Kia Spectra. I had to replace the battery earlier today as the old one was completely dead. the ac, heat, and defrost worked perfectly before and after the replacement. after I drove around and did what I had to do I got in the car for the 3rd time and neither of those would come on anymore. what could be the cause? all the fuses have been checked and are good.
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A friend of mine is giving away its head unit (it has video) from a toyota tundra 2008, can it be installed without too much trouble on my corolla 2013 L?
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I have had my '08 Prius for 3 years and have little to no problems with it. This morning I jumped in to go to work and the entire dash lit up and then faded out and died. The only lights still on is the check engine light, Airbag light and the little green light on the Park button. The worst part is now I can not completely shut it down. I am wondering if it is just a dead battery or if this is something bigger. If it is a dead battery I am baffled at how it could be. I have AAA coming to jump it and I hope that is all it is. Sound familiar?
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I have a 2009 XLE Camry which has been running smoothly for years. I failed to replace my old battery on-time and my drained battery surprised me on Christmas morning. I tried to jump-start it, long story short but something went wrong during jump-start and I lost all the lights on my dash (I can't say I didn't cross the cables but I'm pretty sure I was fully awake that morning).
I bought a new battery and replaced the old one, lights on dash are back on, the engine starts but there is no acceleration at all, the car just moves forward on D and backwards on R but no acceleration on gas pedal. I did some research and figured I might have blown a fuse, I opened my fuse box under my hood and found out my 10 Amp ETCS fuse is blown. I changed the fuse and now acceleration is back, I can drive the car but I get this 'VSC System Check' error on my dash, the 'Check Engine' light is also on and the AC fan is not working.
Could it be another blown fuse? Is this something I can fix by myself?
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I want to get a simple iphone plug to rca converter and just tap into input in the back of those units if we have them.
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My hybrid battery has been running low the past few days. This has never happened before, but it has been around 90 degrees out during the same few days. I noticed it this morning as I left for work. It was down to two bars when pulling out of the garage. I was getting pretty nervous, but at least the ICE was charging it. Although, it never fully charged the system, as I live pretty close to work. On the way home, I tried to drive around for a mile or so to see if I could get the battery fully charged.. The best I could do was four bars. Is this typical of the hybrid system in warm weather? Should I be worried about it? Also, the system has a fan, why doesn't it come on if the hybrid battery is so temp sensitive?
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Ok noticed this a few times recently. On the first start up of the day, sometimes it sounds like something "rattles" in the engine before it comes tight? This only happens when I first start the truck from sitting overnight, if I run to the store, or at lunch go out, etc, it starts normally. I did have one of the pulleys replaced this past summer, it was making a whining noise so maybe the new belt they installed is loose? I know it could be any number of things.
04 5.4 with about 87k miles...
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My batteries go dead over night, had them checked but they say there good, can't figure out what's causing them to die.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Prius. I bought it last year at a Toyota dealership. No long after having the car, the head light would go off sporadically, but would come back on if I turn the car off and back on. Now the entire right side, both the head light and fog light are out. I have a 2006 Prius. I looked online and apparently this is a known issue. There was even a law suit against Toyota, for not recalling the cars and costing owner's hundreds of dollars in repairs.
I took the car in, last summer while the car was still under warranty, when I had to get the 12V battery replace, and told the tech about the issue with the head light. They found "nothing wrong"The problem kept happening and became more often. Now that both sides are off and won't come on at all, I called the dealership, they want to charge me almost $300 to change the bulb!
I saw videos online that show how to do this in about 5 min (changing the bulb) without having to take the bumper off, which is what the dealer told me they had to to. I know it is a lot of info, just to ask, would it be safe, or how safe would it be to change the bulb my self? I would of course be wearing gloves to make sure I don't touch the bulb.
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I am having a mysterious electrical problem with my 2004 Elantra. The radio and clock light come on over night running the battery down. It started last winter. I replaced the radio in the spring and the problem went away, so I thought the problem was solved.
This past week the temperature got very cold at night for the first time since I replaced the radio, and the problem happened again. The next morning I drove the car for a few miles, came home, turned the car off, and the radio and clock light turned off as they should. I drove the car several times during the day and everything worked ok. I checked the car at midnight, and everything was still ok. The next morning the radio and the clock light were on again. This has occurred again each day for the last 2 days.
So it appears the electrical problem has something to do with the car being cold over night. How to resolve this problem - besides moving to a warmer climate.
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Ok, so my 2007 F150 Lariat super crew cab has been at the dealership for a week now with them claiming that a part is on back order. How hard is it for them to get in a right front axle?? Granted, it was in there for other stuff too (which they can not give me a straight answer on if they fixed or not cause they are claiming the technician hasn't done the write up on it yet). My main concern is that they are screwing me around or that something happened to my truck. I am planning on stopping by there on Wed. morning after I get out of work.
Are these trucks known for bad front axles or was there some kind of a big recall on them?
Other things it went in for was the radio having the CD's cycle through when you first start up the truck, but does not happen like that all the time. Black plastic driver side front door hinge is cracked exposing the metal reinforcing part. Whirring/bearing type noise when you first start up the truck when it is cold and sits overnight (which they claim they can't hear yet waited to bring the truck inside and check it out at 3PM when they had the truck overnight from the night before when I dropped it off.) and the front driveshaft not fully disengaging when the truck is in 2wd. Almost seems like the vacuum locking hubs are still engaged.
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