Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Alternator Pulley Nut Size
Apr 28, 2013
2004 F-150 XLT.... What the thread size and pitch are on the alternator pulley nut? Cant find a replacement nut anywhere and lost the original!
View 2 Replies2004 F-150 XLT.... What the thread size and pitch are on the alternator pulley nut? Cant find a replacement nut anywhere and lost the original!
View 2 RepliesNeed to know the thread pitch and diameter for the water pump pulley bolts? The previous owner of the engine I bought clearly didn't know how to get the fan off as the pulley and plastic fan are both loose so I cannot loosen large nut.
View 1 RepliesMy Ex is missing the label showing the serpentine belt routing diagram. I pulled one off the Autozone website for V10 with AC. It showed that there are 2 idler pulleys (one on the left and right side of the alternator). It also has the tensioner pulley.
I only have a tensioner on the left side of the alternator. The one on the right is missing. There appears to be a threaded hole where a pulley should go. Since I bought this used, I thought the previous owner took it off.
I used the bolt from the old tensioner pulley I replaced for the hardware and put a new pulley on.
I also looked at other V10s on used car lots and none of them had the pulley to the right of the alternator. Should there be one there?
I have a 06 F250 6.0 My battery light has been coming on. Doesn't stay on but I'm planning a trip back east and don't want any issues to occur. I was thinking maybe the batteries. So I stopped at the local Oreilly's Auto store and had them tested. Told the guy what it was doing and he said it sounded like the alternator. He tested it and said it was going bad. He also tested the batteries and said they were good. So I went looking for a replacement alternator and they have different amp sizes. So I'm not sure on what size the original one is and if the replacement should be a bigger size amp wise.
View 11 RepliesThinking about buying 2007 XLT Supercab 2wd with 235/70R17 stock tires and wheels. Have no plans at this time for a lift.
What would be the largest tire size replacement i could use in an all terrain tire? (thinking about BFG or Bridgestone Revo)...
Its actually on a 2008 E350 with a 5.4 but figured its all the same. There is a squeal that sounds like a bad pulley but its coming from the flexplate or torque converter. I have taken the belt off to verify. I dont see anything psychically wrong like cracks, bends or anything touching. The little I can find on this subject I would say flexplate has a crack somewhere. Transmission shop also can not figure it out. I just want assurance before pulling the transmission in this beast.
Here is a video : [URL]......
I have a 2008 F-150 with a 4.6. I have a sequel and I believe it is the belt tensioner pulley and / or the idler pulley above it. Looking for proper procedure to change one or both. It is pretty tight in there. How much stuff do I have to remove to get in there. Should I replace both pulleys at the same time.
View 2 RepliesI went and fired up my ac today for the first time, and guess what no ac. So I crawl under the truck to check the compressor out, and guess what I find? The stupid face of the compressor had came loose and was sitting between my frame and the steering rack. Just glad it didn't fall off the truck, now I need to put it back on, but what size bolt. Looking for a spare compressor or know the size and length of the bolt?
View 7 RepliesI noticed my engine whine more than it usual since the last few days. So, I took it to the dealership and have them check. They said that it is the idler pulley going bad. Just want to see some info on diagnosis.
View 6 RepliesDoing some charity work on a '04 5.4. Noticed top right idler pulley was sitting on a 45* angle, figured it was shot and decided to replace it. The bolt broke. Borrowed an Easy Out. Short version, I have a very messed up bolt hole. Tried drilling and tapping but couldn't get it to bite and was scared to go bigger. I don't know if the threaded part pulley actually mounts can be replaced and if so how to go about it. Not sure how much deeper I can drill if it can't be replaced? At a standstill.
View 1 RepliesI noticed my engine whine more than it usual since the last few days. So, I took it to the dealership and have them check. They said that it is the idler pulley going bad.
View 4 RepliesMy sister has a 2011 Santa Fe that was making some noise so she had it looked at at a local Monroe, which then said that the Alternator Pulley is loose. I haven't had the chance to look at the car myself, but in this case, would it be possible to replace just the pulley? Or will I have to replace the whole alternator?
The guys from Monroe said the alternator will have to be replaced as a whole. But from pictures I'm seeing online, it looks like the pulley is held by a 6-point nut, with a torx screw in between to counter hold the rotation. I can also see some listings on eBay for just the pulley. So I'm thinking I could start off by tightening the nut or replace the pulley if it's dented or off shape. Will I have to replace the whole alternator?
I have a 2007 f150 XLT with 18 inch stock rims. I also have a 2 inch leveling kit, how big of tires can i put on it?
View 6 RepliesI have read many pages here on issue of leveling trucks.What concerns me most is the pics I see of the drive axles angles.
My question is if my stock 2005 runs a 265/70r17 tire and I level it with a 2 to 2.5" kit and change my rim and tire size to 28565r20 will this keep angles more level..
The nut that holds the pulley in place on the alternator has fallen off, causing the pulley to become loose and now the serpentine belt will not stay on. What is the size and thread type for the nut that I need to replace?
Alternator Pulley Nut for 2004 Camry 4cyl
I wonder how prevalent this problem is with Ford alternators. Sure looks like it was cracked a long time, like maybe from over-tightening. I was planning on having new bearings installed to hopefully take care of a periodic whine. Already replaced the idler pulleys. As much as I dislike rebuilt alternators, looks like I will be getting one.
View 1 RepliesI just replaced my battery and alternator this evening on my 2004 F-150 5.4L. After driving it around a bit, the idle is dropping to about 100 RPM almost to a point of stalling when coming to stop. It slowly creeps back up to a normal idle shortly after.
View 4 RepliesLast night battery light came on. Drove 40 miles home with lights on. Today, it started so I headed out. About 10 miles of battery light on, gauge fluctuating mildly either side of middle, gauge suddenly drops dramatically. I turn around and head back. After a mile or so there's a terrible growling under the hood, sounded like it could be an alternator bearing. Just as I pull over, the noise stops but entire dash goes black. Popped hood, alternator spinning quietly and not hot. I drove back and it started stumbling and surging as the battery died and it finally quit almost all the way back.
I have battery on charger now. I assume the BCM is the regulator by feeding current back to the field? If so could the growling be the BCM feeding back a huge field and the rectifier bridge growing? And the BCM fuse blew because too much current to alternator field coils? Will it start with a charged battery with the BCM dead? I need it to run to get to the parts place. Which fuses do I need to check? Then, how do I check the alternator, wiring, BCM regulator to find original problem?
This monday i found this horrible noise coming from the engine... My first thought was a pulley bearing, yet none of them at the front appeared to be the cause, and standing in front of the bay it sounded like it came from the engine itself (which would be really bad news). Well, i parked the truck until today and i went to check if i could find the cause. I used a mech's stethoscope at the engine and found nothing strange, turned the engine off and touched the pulleys to feel if any was getting hotter than the others... no dice...
Then took the belt off and tried every pulley by hand, all worked ok, yet when i turned the Alternator's it flashed a little spark every now and then (that was just a hint, i wasn't sure). To finally rule out the engine, i turned it on without the belt (that would leave all the pulleys out of the equation). It worked fine and made no strange noises. I cleaned several pulleys and placed the belt back, and turned the engine on once again, this time keeping my attention at the alternator, enough said, it made several spark noises and suddenly, i saw a cap flying of its back. It turned out to be the bearing at the back of the alternator, it was destroyed and losing shrapnel all over, take a look:
Now, need to know what is the part number of the measures of this bearing. (I'll take what's left of the bearing to the store, but i like to be sure of what I'm looking for).
Within three days the alternator and fuse #23 blew. After replacing these and the fuel filter (because of stalling during acceleration), I took it for a diagnostic check at O'Reileys because the stalling while accelerating worsened, it wasn't shifting correctly and the O/D light began flashing on the shifter. It hit on these 13 error codes:
P7055
P0446
P0750
P0443
P0743
P0135
P0141
P0155
P0161
P2195
P2197
P0423
P1747
I have researched each code (definitions, what to examine/test, and the locaton of each part). My question is that with this many hits is it most likely a problem with the PCM, or should I just proceed with checking each connection, wiring and solenoid individually? The EGR Valve tested fine and the alternator is pushing 14.6 v...
My 2007,4.6 is making a whinning noise from the front of the engine around the idler/tensioner/alternator. What I have read it might be a problem with the alternator getting cold, I forgot to mention it's cold up here. Fixed by changing the alternator and did the noise come back as it seems to be a design problem?
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