Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Air Filter Box Won't Open Easily?
Jul 30, 2011
Who invented this thing---so I pry up the 3 metal clips on the cover and on the opposite side there are 4 plastic stuck in 4 plastic holes. Then I get on a stepladder to get enough leverage to yank them out to expose the filter.
Is there an easier way to open this thing? Was I supposed to disconnect the rubber hose first?
My 2006 5.4L had the air filter in a simple to pull open drawer---2 seconds open, 2 seconds closed!
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I am getting 14MPG out of my 2007 with a 4.2L 5 speed manual single cab. That seems pretty low to me considering the HWY MPG is rated at 19mpg.
My son and I have also noticed when taking off from a stop it is very easy to kill the engine, it seems to happen more so in Reverse but does it a lot going forward. I have driven many stick shifts and this one is by far the worst as far as it dying on take off, really I have never seen one this bad.
I have also noticed some spark knocking at HWY speeds and it also feels like it has a miss a idle but when you push the gas it runs fine.
Installed Motorcraft Platinum plugs a few months back and checked all the gaps. Also new orielly brand plug wires at the same time.
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I have a 2004 Ford F150 and the battery keeps dying. We do not use the truck a lot and it sometimes sits outside for 2-4 weeks without being used. If it sits that long, it might be completely dead, but starts up easily with a jump and then works fine for a while. The battery is a 650 amp Motocraft w prorated replacement from 37-100 mo. The local Ford dealer has checked it several times in the past 2 yr and said it is fine, and that if the truck sits for a couple of weeks the battery will die. Is that right? I am not a car moron, nor am I an expert, but I am concerned that they are missing a small draw somewhere in the system. Should I be concerned about a draw or is this just something that happens to batteries as they get older?
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This really ticked me off big time today, whatever I do the gas cap won't open when I tried to at the gas station. Before I noticed that I would have to try this a couple of times before it will open, but today, it just won't open at all.
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I just bought a 2005 5.4L F-150 and need to do an oil change. The manual calls for an FL-820S Motorcraft filter. I bought one and it doesn't match up. The filter that is currently on the truck is smaller in diameter and a little longer. There's no numbers or manufacturer on it. What's up? What filter do I need?
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Would like to change the fuel filter on my 04 F150. I have about 86K miles on it and not sure how long it has been since changed because I bought the truck with 75K on it. Is this easy job? Also where is the filter located.
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I bought a used 2006 F150 Lariat 4x4 (5.4L) and discovered that the oil filter and filter housing did not match stock. All web searches return the fram filter ph2 but the truck had the equivalent of ph10575. It was the right filter for the housing so it's not a case of someone putting the wrong filter on the truck. The ph10575 filter is for model years 2010 - 2013. Should I start investigating whether the engine had been replaced or is this normal?
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I have a 2005 f150 4x4 4.6 with 100000 miles. I am wanting to change my transmission fluid and filter, my dealer says all i need is to flush out the old and put in new, which is what they do, they say no need to change the filter.
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I have rough idle problem after changing spark plugs, fuel filter and battery. There was no rough idle problem before this work was done. What could be wrong. Once the speed is above 20 mph it seem to run fine but at stops it vibrates and seem like it may stall!
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I have a 2004 F150 Fx4 and i just locked the tailgate for the first time and now i cannot unlock it. I turned it clockwise to lock it and I am trying to turn it counter clockwise to unlock it and it seems like its putting too much tension on the key.... Am I doing something wrong?
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Both doors on my extended cab will not open.
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I can't open my 04 F150 Screw drivers side rear door. Darn it.
I just replaced the rear speaker in my drivers side rear door and when I re-installed the rear release door handle I must have missed the cable engagement. I closed it and now can not open the door.
The handle is installed, the screws (loosened) will not come out, the lower door panel is installed. The upper two snap on panels are still off. so I have access to the top latch but not the lower end.
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So I'm having a tailgate issue. When I open my tailgate, sometimes the internal spring wants to keep it up, rather then letting it open down. It also makes an odd popping noise during operation from time to time......I don't see or feel anything broke in it.
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Looking for a process to have the interior lights 'shut off' with the doors open?
I do a lot of camping, and having the doors open with the music playing is a real nice feature of my truck (2007 F-150 Super Crew 4X4), vut the fact that every internal light stays on just beats the heck out of the battery.
I would love to know if there is something that can be done to have them 'dim off' after the doors have stayed open for a certain amount of time.
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I have a 2004 F150 Screw Lariat and the problem is this: After turning of the truck, removing key from ignition and opening the door the following happens:
1. Radio stays on (will time out)
2. The power windows still work
3. The interior dome lights stay off
It's as if the door switches have been removed from the circuit. I've tried all doors. There are references to the GEM module but I didn't think there was one in this truck.
For the door switches, when the door is closed, the circuit is open, when the door is open the circuit is closed. I'm not sure what to check next. I checked some of the relays - auxilary delay relay, power relay etc etc. but I would think its a relay issue.
The door open signal is transmitted on the UBP network, no idea about that and they feed into the body control module - not sure where this is.
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I have an 06 F150 with 31K miles, with the 5.4 V8, and recently experienced an engine misfire condition, caused by two stuck open fuel injectors. The dealer fixed everything back, but, said its not covered like the 05's, so I had to pay.
Why the 06 5.4 with the same problem as the 05's, is not covered? Seems to me like Ford still has a problem with stuck fuel injectors on the 06.
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Well I believe I finally had the opportunity to experience the wide open injector issue. I was driving to work and all of a sudden at a stop light my truck started shaking bad. It went away but as I took off every so often it would shake. I thought it was a tire or front end component so I pulled over and just got overwhelmed with the smell of gas. I drove 30 miles back home and check engine light blinked the whole way and truck ran . Also wasted at least a 1/4 tank of gas and the a/c wouldn't blow cold air either. Hooked it up to read DTC codes and got P0172, P0300, P0303, P0304, P0316 and P2196.
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I can't figure out how to open the door panel driver side.
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I am having a problem with my sliding rear glass where when I attempt to open the glass, the pull cable barely moves. When I push the close button it will eventually pull the close cable tight and close the window. (The length of time it takes to pull the cable tight in the closed direction depends on how long I had attempted to open the window, i.e. when I'm pushing the open button it looks like all I'm doing is making slack in the cable and not really pulling it open at all)
I have done some research on how to access the motor behind the seat, but have not gotten a chance to investigate further.
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I'm having trouble with my 2004 Ford F-150 5.4 Triton V8 starting, when i try to start it i have to move the shifter all the way down and up multiple times with the key open in order to start the truck. I don't what it is I think it may be the Neutral Safety Switch or Shifter cable.
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I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
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