Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Air Conditioning Blows Hot When Temp Reaches 90 Degrees
Jun 24, 2013
The AC in my F-150 Super crew Lariat 5.4 was just charged and works fine until the temp reaches ninety degrees, then it blows hot. What this could be?
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My F-150 ac shuts down when air temp reaches above 80 degrees. The freon has been checked, the compressor clutch cycling switch & high pressure switch have been replaced with no effect.
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My F250 Will not start once the oil temp reaches about 117 degrees. Once oil temp drops it fires up. In the morning it only crranks for a couple of seconds. What could this be? I am getting over 1300 PSI HPOP while cranking. FICM Volts 48.5. Just no hot start. What do you think it is and how much at the repair shop. I have the Torque App, IPR values are good to I think.
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The AC blows very cold as long as the outside temp is 88-87 and cooler. As soon as it goes over 89 or so, the air rapidly warms eventually blowing what feels like air HOTTER than the outside ambient. No matter if i shut it down or blow warm air it will not restart until the temperature outside drops below the magic mark (so i dont think the coil is freezing over)... and then it blows frigid air. I don't think it is low refrigerant because of the efficiency at cooler temps and the nearly exact outside temp it changes. It is as if a sensor is activated and nothing but a temperature drop changes its status. It is so predictable that to me it sounds like a sensor or kill switch that is activated. One fan was out. had it replaced and still have the problem. This has been going on all summer and VW stamps everything "could not replicate". 2004 touareg vs 80k miles (with plenty of troubles along the way)....
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2006 F150 King Ranch. My Air Conditioning no longer blows cold air. Additionally, the Temp Guage is pegged dead left. No movement at all even at normal operating temp. I've had the dealer replace 2 sensors and a wiring asy (XL3Z-14A411-AA). I still have the same problem. No cold air and the gauge is still pegged dead left.
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How many degrees should cool the air conditioning? My Golf 4 has about 14 years and doesn't seem to cool as much as before. Measuring with the probe of a multimeter, the temperature of the air coming through the air vents drops 10 C below ambient temperature. For example at 28 C ambient temperature I can get 18 C through the air vents, but doesn't seem that low. After the air mixes inside you don't really notice a big drop.
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So yesterday my truck decided to start giving me fits right after it finally got extra cold and snowy here! I noticed early on this fall that my water pump was leaking, so I replaced it. I also found that my truck only blew hot air while in motion, and cold air while it was stopped or at idle. At this point I replaced the thermostat and housing. I originally had the stock setup with the combined thermostat and housing. The new one is and updated GM version with the separate thermostat and housing assembly. Everything seemed to be ok until yesterday morning.
This is where my problem is now. Yesterday on my way to work, the message center said my coolant was too hot. The temp gauge showed the truck at about 250 degrees. My speed was only about 45mph and it was 6 degrees outside. I ended up parking the truck and looking at it after work. I found it was still doing the exact same thing. When I investigated further, I found that the upper radiator hose was hot, while the lower one coming out of the thermostat housing was cold.
At this point I figured that I had a bad thermostat, and bought a replacement. I tested the old one on my stove top in a pan of water and found that it did actually open at about 175 degrees, so I'm not so sure it was bad now. With the new thermostat installed, the engine is no longer overheating and the temp stays around 235 while driving. However, I am back to the heater blowing cold air at idle and while stopped, and warm air while driving. In addition, the rear heater now only blows cold air, it never warms up.
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I have a 2006 F150 4.6 175,000 miles in pretty good shape and well maintained. Lately, the A/C has acted weird. When I first turn it on, it blows air, but the air does not chill until I have a pretty good RPM going. Then it's fine. Once it starts chilling, it's good to go even when RPM is low (like at a red light). It's just the initial acceleration.
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I have a 05 6.0l. Egr deleted. And my truck has a rough idle and power loss. Ive tested the ipr and the icp and they are reading at specs. I've also replaced the Hpop about 1500 miles ago. It has a real rough idle until it's at running temp. And it has power loss, I'll be driving down road and theres no where near has much power has there should be. And the idle will jump between 1500 rpm and 2000rpm.
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So today I was driving to work and it was pretty cold out. It was about -22/-30 C with the wind. The drive is about 20 minutes in traffic. I to through drivethru and as I am leaving I notice that the temp dropped from about 90 to around 75/80. I then drive accross the street to work and the temp goes back up to 90. So I decided to sit there and let the car idle for a few minutes. Then the temp dropped again by about 10.
So I called the dealer and stopped by. All they did is take it for a test drive and do a scan to tell me everything is fine. By then the temp had warmed up outside and the issue was no longer present.
Having issues with fluctuating temp once your car reaches 90?
I know with my MK4 Golf 1.8T when I used to be in stop and go traffic the gauge would go down. So I replaced my thermostat and all was fine after that.
Do a modern car can a scan detect temp going below 90? Or could be a sticky thermostat?
It's a 2015 Golf 1.8 TSI
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1994 Ford E150 5.0L. Will not start when the weather is above 70 Degrees F. No fire from coil...
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I have a 02 gti 1.8t and my a/c stopped blowing cold out of nowhere. I added r134 and it didn't make a difference. Changed the switch near the firewall in the engine bay and it still did nothing. Compressor clutch kicks on when a/c button is pressed. Could it be I have a leak?car has 147k on it.
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Recently my truck is only blowing heat or air conditioning on full blast in my 2004 Ford F-150 (New style, not heritage).
Level 1, 2, or 3 is exactly the same and blows almost nothing, then if I switch it to 4 it is full power.
I just don't know what exactly I will need to change. I know it would be a resistor pack somewhere that probably failed, I just don't know where it would be.
Do I just need a new control switch, or do I need a new heater fan?
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2.5 months ago I had a coolant flush in my 2007 explorer Eddie Bauer. The last 3 days last week the temp gauge went from the middle where it usually sits, to maxed out in the red. Stays there for about 45 secs and then drops back down.
Is it coincidence that I had a flush and maybe they didn't fill it all the way back up or is it somthing else ?
One other thing- even when it sits in the middle of the gauge I can sometimes hear the engine sucking in air like a vacuum so I guess at certain times its running hot but just doesn't raise the gauge just yet.
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I have a Suzuki Esteem on which I have recently had following work done from a suzuki dealer on their recommendation.
1) Throttle body repair and Cleaning.
2) Idle air control valve cleaning.
3) New fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs.
4) Engine tuning.
5) New battery.
6) New power steering belt.
PROBLEM: (Only when AC is OFF)
When my car reaches operating temperature the engine stalls out after three seconds at idle.
Suzuki dealer does not seem to know the reason behind this and they want to keep it for a few more days however i think they will just keep replacing parts one after another.
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I have a 2008 that I bought brand new, it now has about 60,000 miles on it and the air conditioning is not cutting it in the Chicago summer. Would it now be time to have it recharged? Is there modification to make it more powerful?
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I have a 2006 350. When I am pulling my camp trailer (about 12,500 lbs) up a grade I hear a fan or blower turn on and I get a high pitched squeal. It will also have a beep and my in dash display will say high engine temp. I have a bullydog pmt programmer (i tow with it in stock mode) the display will show my coolant temp at about 180 degrees. If I pull over and let it idle for about 2 minutes the warning clears and the temp gauge returns to normal. the display reads about 180 degrees the whole time this goes on. I know the engine is not over heating so why do i get this warning and squeal?
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Having difficulties with an air conditioner. 2006 KR F150. The air blows, but not cold. I just had everything checked in regards to pressures, freon, etc., but still only blows ambient temperatures.
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My blower in my truck only blows at levels 3 and 4. Do the blower motor going out? Switch? Motor relay? I've read a bunch of things try?
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I have a f150 2007 with a 4.2 in it. The CEL comes on and when this happens the air comes out the a/c vents and no where else. We have cleared the code out but it comes back on when we do clear it out the air blows out where the dial is set. I think there is a vac leak somewhere....
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I have an 06 F-150, there is lots of heat but it only blows on defrost. Is this the blend door motor or is it something else?
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