Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: After Braking Battery Light Came On - Steering Tightens Up?
Mar 22, 2012
my truck has been acting kind of funny for the past 2 days. my RPM's are not as high as they usuaully are and my battery volt is 14.2 watts and when i hit the brakes and turn it drops down to 12.5. when that happens my battery light turns on, steering wheel tightens up and truck slows down. the only way to get my truck running after that is turning it off and starting it up again. What might be wrong or had the same problems?
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I just finished a 2 hour road trip(about 80 miles per an hour) on my 2013 Corolla S. I have realized what it is about the steering that I am having an issue with. Off the highway, the steering is great and I love the steering feel. But on the highway it tightens up and is real firm. I would like it to be more loose and not as firm on the highway. With it super tight on highspeeds, the usual correcting it with a minor left and right requires signifcant more push/pressure from the arm and hand. Also, need it feels more sensitive to degrees. I find myself shifting around trying to find a relaxing spot to steer and apply that much pressure to steering without my arm/hand getting tired.
Is there anything that can be adjusted to make the steering not tighten up at highspeeds and also be so sensitive? Will it lesson over time? I am using the 17" alloy wheels with Goodyear tires.
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I own an 08 Rx350 at 70k miles now. This is my first car ever; my parents bought it brand new and gave to me as gift after I graduated from college. I try to take good care of it; whatever the dealership tells me to replace, I replace it. I follow the maintenance schedule and owners guide to a T. I never really paid attention when my parents drove this car...but I don't know why my car vibrates when I get maybe above 60 mph and try to apply the brake. I do not brake hard and now I pretty much avoid applying brake and just let it glide. Is this normal? Whenever I visit the dealership they do a complete check up. All the check up results are normal;nothing wrong with tire trims, brake pads, suspension etc.
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I have a 2004 F150 XLT and the passenger side tail light doesn't work whatsoever. The light does work for hazards, turn signal, or when braking. The passenger front turn signal works, so does the front and the driver sides tail light. Only the 1 tail light doesn't work. I bought a new brake light bulb and it didnt't fix it, so i swapped the drivers and passengers bulbs out, and it still didn't work. I replaced the 10 amp fuse (#36) in the fuse box. What is causing the problem.
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My college age daughter is driving a 2008 kia sportage. She tells me that when it rains the battery light goes on and the steering wheel locks up.What to ask the mechanic?
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About 45 seconds after start up Battery light on dash illuminates. Gauge shows in good range. Fluke meter across battery terminals reads 14.2 - 14.4 volts at idle with lights on high beam. No TDC's.
Truck is new to me, engine was replaced recently so I did do a check of harness connections with no problems found, what I should check next ?
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for the last three days, I had the big red master warning light come up four times during normal braking, also "Problem" was displayed on the LCD where "Add fuel" is displayed when fuel is low. But no error code showed on the OBD reader. I searched found that it might be related to 12V battery which I replaced two years ago.
2008 with 120K miles.
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I have 2005 F150 XLT 5.4 litre engine and my battery light comes on after letting the truck run on idle or sometimes driving.
Last Saturday went out drove it heater on and radio on I smelled something coming from the heater kinda like burning wire smell didn't think anything of it no smoke from heater (indicating the core was bad) no lights on the cluster nothing; went into the bank let it run came back out my battery light on. Drove it home and while driving the light goes off.
Opened the hood and the smell was coming from the alternator. So I turned the truck off. Let it sit for an hour or so then I took my voltmeter to see if the battery was good. The battery was 12.4v with engine off. Checked my battery connection for corrosion or loose connections everything was tight there was some dust on the battery terminals so I brushed them off. I checked the battery cable that goes from positive to the alternator where it connects to the alternator with that nut it was good, clean and tight.
So I started the engine up and I can hear a whining noise from one of the pulleys. Let it idle for 2 minutes no battery light so I put my voltmeter on the battery it read 13.8v, so I turned on the A/C, head lights, radio and the heater tried again the voltage dropped down to 11.9v then the battery light came back on. Also through all this my battery gauge in the cluster always stays a half way mark doesn't drop or go high. Next with the engine turned off I took the belt off checked the pulleys the idler pulleys seem fine and the belt doesn't show any glazing but the alternator was hot almost like touching a hot exhaust manifold.
So for the last 3 days I have been trying to come up with how to resolve this issue obviously it could be the alternator going bad but the battery has never lost a charge yet I let the truck sit for these past 3 days and today I started the truck and it started right up I don't see any dimming lights except it has a whining noise and the battery light didn't come on immediately I let it run for 5-10 minutes before it came on; I even drove it around the block and the whining noise gets louder every time I step on the gas. To me it's either I need new alternator, tension pulley is bad or the idler pulleys are bad but they turn fine.
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Last night battery light came on. Drove 40 miles home with lights on. Today, it started so I headed out. About 10 miles of battery light on, gauge fluctuating mildly either side of middle, gauge suddenly drops dramatically. I turn around and head back. After a mile or so there's a terrible growling under the hood, sounded like it could be an alternator bearing. Just as I pull over, the noise stops but entire dash goes black. Popped hood, alternator spinning quietly and not hot. I drove back and it started stumbling and surging as the battery died and it finally quit almost all the way back.
I have battery on charger now. I assume the BCM is the regulator by feeding current back to the field? If so could the growling be the BCM feeding back a huge field and the rectifier bridge growing? And the BCM fuse blew because too much current to alternator field coils? Will it start with a charged battery with the BCM dead? I need it to run to get to the parts place. Which fuses do I need to check? Then, how do I check the alternator, wiring, BCM regulator to find original problem?
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This is concerning my little brothers truck. It is a 2008 4.2 liter with around 55,000 miles on it.
He drove it to work today, and called me this afternoon saying that the truck starts then dies a few seconds later, and the battery light illuminates. He and a coworker checked the battery and connections....cleaned off corrosion on terminals, battery reads 12.xx volts without a load on it, it is the original though.
As of right now he is changing the fuel filter which hasn't been done yet. I also know of issues with the fuel pump driver module. I remember checking the one on my 2005 back when I owned it. As I recall it causes a no start condition, but would it cause a start then stop condition like this? He will check this when he is done with the filter.
Anything else that we can check in a parking lot to try and at least get it home?
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I recently had my alternator and battery replaced due to my truck dying out randomly on me, tested the alternator and failed, replaced battery, and still got the same results, battery gauge seems to drop quickly, what could be going on, I have been told to replace the fusible link that goes from the battery to the alternator....
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I have a 2004 Saab 9-3. Currently the Battery Warning Light has come on. It came on while the car was being driven. The car's performance seemed to suffer and it was hard to turn the steering wheel. We were about two miles away from home and we somehow managed to get home but we simply couldn't get the car to turn on to our driveway because of loss of power for steering.
We checked the Saab manual and it reads : Warning Charging - This light comes on together with 'triangle/exclamation' light if the battery is not charging. If it comes on while you are driving, stop the car as soon as possible and switch off the engine.Check the alternator drive belt. If the belt has broken, the engine may overheat (cooling system will not function properly), the battery will not be charged, the A/C compressor will not run and power assistance for steering will be lost.
Our observation:- We experienced the a/c not working too well- We had problem with steering - It was almost as if the steering wheel was locked. It was extremely hard to turn. Is this an alternator belt or a battery issue? If so, how do we figure out?
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I've owned my IS F for a little over two weeks now, and I have noticed under several occasions under heavy breaking (close to 70-80% breaking capacity) that I have to fight the steering wheel to keep the car tracking straight. This is anywhere from speeds of 80-90 mph coming down to 40-50 mph. Could this be an issue related to the front control arm bushings? My F only has ~41,xxx miles and tires are brand new (OEM Spec) Continental ExtremeContact DWS. No other alignment issues known as the car doesn't track left or right either.
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2008 GX with 42K and just driving home and battery light comes on and a whirring noise--pull over and open hood smell strong electrical smell--ok Alternator fried. Got it home and battery light off but still when I put a meter to my battery with engine running its only putting out 13.4V? should be at least 14.5-6 correct. Has to be Alternator cause of the symptoms and the burning electrical smell..
SO WHO has changed alternator and how hard was it? Im looking for it and I think its under the Power steering pump it seems left side engine looking at it.??
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I've been using my prius 2008 very smoothly till today. It was 100F+ in Austin and very hot. The car, suddenly lit up all the warning lights: Engine, Red Exclamation, Hybrid, and brake lights. The brakes kept beeping on both sides. I also heard an engine noise that is quite uncommon for prius. I stopped the car in a parking lot.
I came back in an hour and tried to start the car. I only saw 2 lights now: Red Exclamation, and Engine check. It might some "click" noise when I started, and after that it was fine. I drove for a while and everything was fine but the 2 warning lights were still on. I tried starting and stopping few times. I did experience the clicks (1-2) and the engine noise. The engine noise lasted 15-30 seconds and then it was back to normal.
I followed the youtube video to look up the diagnostics (Display pressed + lights on/off 3 times) to check the 12V battery. It read 13.8 V. I recently had an oil change at Toyota dealership less than 500 miles back. So I am baffled at this point. I have about ~60K miles and it's a 2008 model. So if it's a hybrid battery issue, I am covered.
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It seems like I am going thru brakes I just replaced my brakes in May and my Rotors in July and when I brake my truck shakes like crazy. Is it the brakes again or am I missing something.
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Replaced the Intermediate Steering Shaft at 114,000 miles. Symptoms felt like power steering going out but no pump noise or low fluid. Steering became hard to turn and it sometimes felt like a tie rod was letting go.
Temporary resolution was to spray the two steering shaft joints with penetrating oil (PB Blaster). That freed them up pretty well. Then I ordered Dorman part 425361 (425-361) from Rock Auto. Simple enough job. Lots of good vids on YouTube.
I don't recommend spraying the steering shaft joints as preventative maintenance. Penetrating oil will get into the needle bearings and break down the bearing grease. That will cause the joints to fail over time.
Two side benefits, the truck steering is much smoother and small road bumps and potholes are much less noticeable. Feels like it was when new.
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After my 2006 Ford F150 Lariet started shaking and pulsating when braking (38,000 miles) I took the truck to the Ford dealer and asked to have my brake pads checked. They came back and siad they looked fine and I had alot of wear left. Then I mentioned that is was shaking and asked them to check it again, they drove it and then said my rotors are warped and I need to replace the rotors and pads. I don't haul, tow or do anything crazy with it.
Now, here's my questions:
1. Can the rotors go bad and the brake pads be fine?
2. Should I go with a ceramic pad or stick with the OEM?
I'm just a female and don't want to be taken advantage of at the dealers. Cost is not an issue when purchasing a good product.
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I recently purchased a used 2006 Ford F-150 (5.4l RWD). I was fully aware of a problem with the brake rotors when I bought the truck from a dealership. They supposedly changed the rotors and the rotors appear to be new...But every time I brake the truck almost flutters in the front end. I haven't noticed vibration while on the highway, only when braking. I am worried because I can fix it I just cant seem to figure out what the problem is.
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I’ve searched for an answer to my question but have not found it yet.
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I'm a new owner to my first 4x4 vehicle. My vehicle is a 2007 f150 xlt. Today while I was driving into work I had my vehicle in 4wd high. As I was going down hill I let off the gas and started braking. When all of a sudden my 4wd drive switched into neutral. I am wondering what could cause this to happen and whether it's an issue or not? It is snowing which was my purpose for being in 4wd.
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