Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: AC Quits Blowing Cold And The Truck Shakes
Aug 25, 2012
I have A '06 f 150 4x4 with codes p303 and 307. I have changed plugs, coils, and injectors on all cylinders. Still nothing. It runs rough for a while and clears out for a mile or so and back to running bad. When it stumbles the a/c quits blowing cold and the truck shakes like crazy. The check engine light is on and blinks when it stumbles. Tired of just having parts changed. What else could it be?
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Have 66,000 on the clock. AC has blown cold since i have had the car, and yesterday quits blowing cold, summer is right around the corner.
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Just a hour ago, driving along about 45, then I hear a loud bang and my truck quits. I get off the road and it won't even turn over. I had a friend tow it back to the barracks and put a socket and breaker bar on the crank and can't move it. All the fluids are fine. Possible seized up? The thing was running great as always then boom. Nothing! It's a 06' F150, 5.4, 97K on it.
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Will the computer in a 2007 shut down the AC compressor in an overheating scenario because it would be considered non essential? Yesterday on my way home from work my AC quit blowing cold. I just had the compressor changed a couple of months ago so my first though was bad compressor. Then I noticed the temp gauge start to climb. The truck was over heating. There was a hole in the radiator. Now that the overheating problem is fixed the AC is again blowing cold. I just would like to know if I may be starting g to have issues with the compressor again or if it's natural for it to shut the compressor off because of overheating of the motor.
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I have a 2005 f150 4 Dr. My fan sounds like it's going to come thru my glove box. I replaced the blower resistor and that did not work. I have cold air blowing out, it just gurgles real bad. And it's hot out.
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Here is my problem: A/C not blowing cold air, blower motor working fine, checked all relevant fuses for A/C and R202 relay under the hood. Everything is fine here. Next, low pressure switch, jumped, clutch does not engage. Next removed relay R202 (clutch relay) measured voltages (at female sockets) where pins 1 and 3 would go, voltage OK. Jumped where pins 3 and 5 would go (bypass to see if clutch engages) and it does. Appears that the pressure switches check out OK (low pressure and A/C cycling switch - although this one not sure). CarMD unit was used as well, and no codes generated so perhaps PCM is working OK? I'm stumped, as a loss of GND by PCM or perhaps a corroded or open wire issue??
Also, possible the A/C switch on the HVAC control could be bad, but the light comes on, (doesn't mean switch is good necessarily). The rest of that unit works fine, control ***** that is, fan speed adjusts properly, air flow looks good. It appears this is an electrical problem where the clutch is not getting juice but I don't know the source of the problem. However, I also noticed that when the clutch/compressor was running (temporarily as described above) cold air still didn't come out. This, I assume, would mean I would need to add refrigerant or re-charge the A/C AFTER I get the clutch to engage electrically. 2004 F-150 5.4L ....
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My AC blows hot air, like heater hot, but the defrost on cold blows cold air. At first the AC would cut out at low rpm's (stop sign or red light) and cut back on, now its nothing. But the defrost blowing cold, enough to fog up the windshield, tells me its not the compressor or freon.
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Ok, so my 2007 F150 Lariat super crew cab has been at the dealership for a week now with them claiming that a part is on back order. How hard is it for them to get in a right front axle?? Granted, it was in there for other stuff too (which they can not give me a straight answer on if they fixed or not cause they are claiming the technician hasn't done the write up on it yet). My main concern is that they are screwing me around or that something happened to my truck. I am planning on stopping by there on Wed. morning after I get out of work.
Are these trucks known for bad front axles or was there some kind of a big recall on them?
Other things it went in for was the radio having the CD's cycle through when you first start up the truck, but does not happen like that all the time. Black plastic driver side front door hinge is cracked exposing the metal reinforcing part. Whirring/bearing type noise when you first start up the truck when it is cold and sits overnight (which they claim they can't hear yet waited to bring the truck inside and check it out at 3PM when they had the truck overnight from the night before when I dropped it off.) and the front driveshaft not fully disengaging when the truck is in 2wd. Almost seems like the vacuum locking hubs are still engaged.
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Friend lost reverse and truck shakes at 35 and above seems like it needs a new transmission. What years are a match for this transmission and any other models trans match?
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My '01 Super Duty 5.4 has an overheating/heater problem that the dealer can't seem to fix. I noticed my heater was blowing cold then a few miles later it overheated pushing coolant out of cap. Next day drove fine to Ford dealer who replaced my heater core, thermostat, reservoir cap and a hose. Drove it for a day till the exact original symptoms occurred again with a gurgling sound in dash. Dealer kept for a week pressurizing system but no leaks found. Replaced my thermostat again and gave it back. I drove it 300 miles over a week before the exact same symptoms occurred. Brought back to dealer who said that air was in the system, added a bunch of coolant and supposedly got all the air out. Same symptoms still. Brought back to dealer that finally changed the water pump they said had a leak. Guess what, same symptoms. Heater will work fine for days then it will blow cold, then hot, then cold and sooner or later truck will overheat then just as fast cool down and heater will work again. Still hearing gurgling. Dealer said I don't have a HCV.
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Last summer I bought a heavier horse trailer and needed a bigger, badder truck to pull it with. I finally found a 2004 Dodge Ram 3500 (4 wheels, not 6) 4x4 diesel truck. I am very happy with it except: When I have pulled for about 1-1/2 to 2 hrs, the a/c fan just quits blowing. I turn it off and crack the windows for 10-15 min and then it will come back on full force. For awhile. Then it quits again, etc, etc. I haven't pulled that long in cooler weather yet, but would guess the same thing would happen. It doesn't seem to be the a/c, just the fan. Of course getting to the garage in middle of this non-activity isn't possible and I just get blank looks when I describe the problem.
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It's an 04 F350 6.8L This past winter when it was cold I would start it up and it would rock forward and bounce back as is you shifted in to park while rolling. Now that it's warmed up it won't jerk forward but the whole body shakes only at start up. As much as I like the idea of of the raw torque being so powerful the truck twists with power I don't think that's the case.
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02 F250 with 7.3. When I activate the 4WD, my light comes on, the A/C quits blowing out of the forward vents and goes into defrost and no 4WD. If I sit and wait a bit, the air again blows out the front vents and the 4WD engages. I figure I have a vacuum leak somewhere in the 4WD system. Is there a common place for this to happen or do I need to trace the whole system down? Also my manual hubs has never been turned and of course they won't. I know better than use a wrench so is there a easy way to free them up or just go ahead and disassemble and clean?
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My 2004 f 150 has only 60 k on it and I have chased these micro-shimies since the truck was new! First there was a giant recall on the 2004 design of the rotors and calipers. I have since changed all that again..... This is now the third set of brakes.....
New last winter I put on 4 KUMO tires......and have had them rebalanced twice ( bad sign of quality in my opinion ).
Now 1 strut leaks. I am shopping i think LEAWOOD brand on rockauto parts is that a good quality? How about changing 1 strut? Is that silly at 60 k or should I man up and do both? Darn thing shakes at interstate speeds all the time...
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I have a 2004 SD with 5.4 that is running pretty rough both at idle and driving. Truck shakes a lot at lower rpms. I have a scan tool and had a misfire on cylinder 4 so I replaced the coil and the plug. Also replaced the idle air control valve. Plan on replacing O2 B1 S2. (One of my codes) even after replacing the coil and plug I'm still getting misfire detected from cylinder 4??? Other codes I had were misfire detected on he first 1000 revolutions. That hasn't come back though.
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my 05 is giving me these mini shakes when I accelerate and slow down. I also get a little bit at highway speeds. I was walking around the truck today and I noticed that the back right tire doesn't have a weight on it. I thought this was wierd. Could a weight have fallen off thus causing the vibrations, or is this normal for one wheel to not have a weight?
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Once in every few days the truck starts to shake aggressively while on the road. Its like going through a very rough gravel road all of a sudden, felt through steering column. I have to pull over and hit the brakes and bring truck to full stop before it goes away. Then it's gone. Any thoughts before I start to take it to mechanic. Is it shock related, brake related, etc??
By the way, my truck model is the 2005 F150 XLT TRITON.
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When I turn on my air conditioner it just blows air, not cold air just air. If I turn it to heat it also just blows air, not warm air, just air. The fan settings all work fine but the air coming out never changes temperature. By the way, If I bypass the compressor clutch relay with a paper clip, the AC will kick in. I refilled the coolant in the AC system too but it won't engage without bypassing the relay. Plus, the heater is not "kicking in" either. I did recently install a new wiper motor but I am not sure if that may have contributed to the air issue that is happening now.
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My 06 Mitsubishi Galant's A/C quits blowing air after approximately 50 miles of driving. The fan is running normally but the ducts don't have much air coming from them. I let the car set for a period of time and it starts working again. It acts like the coils are freezing up. I had a mechanic check it, the freon is ok, there is no cabin filter and they replaced a relay hoping to fix it. So far, no luck.
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Just bought a 04' F250, new head studs and gaskets. Put a tranny temp sensor in and replaced bad thermostat. My coolant res is full and temp is bout 185 (it's 10* outside). My heater is blowing out cold air, I'm assuming there's air in the system.
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Winter is coming and I am running into a problem, I tried to set my heat at the highest level today and was getting nothing but cold air. I get ice cold A/C, but no heat at any temperature. What could be the culprit?
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