Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: AC Compressor Bolt - Size And Length?
Mar 29, 2012
I went and fired up my ac today for the first time, and guess what no ac. So I crawl under the truck to check the compressor out, and guess what I find? The stupid face of the compressor had came loose and was sitting between my frame and the steering rack. Just glad it didn't fall off the truck, now I need to put it back on, but what size bolt. Looking for a spare compressor or know the size and length of the bolt?
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I have a 1999 f150 v6. Top starter bolt fell out while driving it seems. Local parts store had no way to look it up. Need to know the size, length I need? Only car I got so I am stuck walking.
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how long should the bolts be that mount the distributor to the (non-california) 5sfe? I'm putting my car back together (finally) and the only bolts from my pile that fit are one that is too long, and two that are only a couple threads longer than the width of the distributor flange. simplest conclusion is that the latter are the bolts that were there, but does that seem right?
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What is the original wheel bolt length? Is it 28mm?
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What is the bed length on a 2004 f-150 crew cab?
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My garage measures exactly 235" deep, and I would have to remove some shelving on the back wall to get it. I want a used F150 with an extended cab, and so due to the length restrictions, it needs to have a short bed.
One Used Truck dealer actually measured an F150 he had for sale, and it measured 228", which would have left 7" if I had bought his truck. So part of my question is if all F150's are the same length, do they vary by year, body style, etc..., but my main question is if it's possible to know the overall length of the truck just by having the VIN#.
Weeks ago, I found a particular "VIN Checker" website that gave me the length of one particular F150 based on the VIN#, but I didn't bother to save the VIN Checker website, and despite the fact that I've used several sites to check several trucks, the "overall length" specification has not been listed once, ever since.
So I don't know if there was something special about that particular site, or if the overall length spec is only available (via the VIN#) in certain years, on certain models, or what. So I'm asking.
The main reason is if I'm looking at a truck and I can get the VIN. Note I see other physical dimension specs all the time, width, etc... but length is the one that I DON'T see. I don't know if this is because the VIN checking websites don't have/can't get the information..
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Need to know the thread pitch and diameter for the water pump pulley bolts? The previous owner of the engine I bought clearly didn't know how to get the fan off as the pulley and plastic fan are both loose so I cannot loosen large nut.
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What is the thread size/length of the 20 transmission pan bolts on the 4R100? I am replacing the pan since the rust has finally started weeping ATF, and the bolts need to be replaced as well, they have turned into little rusty nubs. So i want to use stainless ones. I could pull one and go to the hardware store, but what is the size i can stop on the way home.
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What is the size of the bolts on the rear axle that hold the shock absorber? I believe its an M12 x70 mm long??
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Bought a used 1997 Lariat Supercab 5.4L last week. It was missing its front drive shaft so I want to install one.
I just ordered a used front drive shaft online but I now need the bolts that connect everything together. New drive shaft has all the flanges, etc.
What is the pitch/length of these bolts? The part number for the bolts is N800594-S100 (AB-308-D). I believe there would be 8 of them, 4 on each side.
I thought it might be easier and cheaper to just buy bolts from an aftermarket supplier instead of OEM from Ford.
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Thinking about buying 2007 XLT Supercab 2wd with 235/70R17 stock tires and wheels. Have no plans at this time for a lift.
What would be the largest tire size replacement i could use in an all terrain tire? (thinking about BFG or Bridgestone Revo)...
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2004 F-150 XLT.... What the thread size and pitch are on the alternator pulley nut? Cant find a replacement nut anywhere and lost the original!
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I have a 2007 f150 XLT with 18 inch stock rims. I also have a 2 inch leveling kit, how big of tires can i put on it?
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Was looking for a cat back exhaust for my 04 FX4 and was curious if they involve any welding or just strictly bolt on?
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I am in the process of installing a 6" pro comp lift on my 04 supercrew 4x4. Things were going good until I got to the upper strut bolts. Trying to remove the 3 nuts, one came off on the passenger side. The other 2 just spin, the bolt and nut. Haven't tried the drivers side yet. The only idea I had was making a notch in the top with a dremel tool and small cutting wheel for a screwdriver but my dremel tool smoked..
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Doing some charity work on a '04 5.4. Noticed top right idler pulley was sitting on a 45* angle, figured it was shot and decided to replace it. The bolt broke. Borrowed an Easy Out. Short version, I have a very messed up bolt hole. Tried drilling and tapping but couldn't get it to bite and was scared to go bigger. I don't know if the threaded part pulley actually mounts can be replaced and if so how to go about it. Not sure how much deeper I can drill if it can't be replaced? At a standstill.
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I have read many pages here on issue of leveling trucks.What concerns me most is the pics I see of the drive axles angles.
My question is if my stock 2005 runs a 265/70r17 tire and I level it with a 2 to 2.5" kit and change my rim and tire size to 28565r20 will this keep angles more level..
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I am getting a little frustrated with a leak on my rear differential. The leak is on the front of differential rear-end just behind the four bolts you take off to remove the driveshaft. When you take the driveshaft out, there is a single bolt and the seal behind that is leaking. Here is my dilemma, I called my local ford dealership to find out what the torque rating on that bolt is so when I replace the seal I don't over-tighten. He told me there is no torque rating on it because I have to tighten, measure, tighten, measure the bolt. I was lost, I didn't have a clue what he was talking about.
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I have a 04 F250 6.0L ,The center bolt that holds the a/c clutch to the compressor. I'm assuming that bolt needs to be tight, correct? Mine was loose when I looked at it last night. My a/c squeals for a while trying to engage. Also, is that bolt right or left hand threads? Can that clutch be replaced without removing the compressor?
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First sounds from our prototype exhaust with PPE long-tube equal-length headers.
FIGS Lexus IS-F PPE Equal Length Headers and FIGS Proto Exhaust - YouTube
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PPE Engineering has been getting lot's of inquires from us ISF owners about the feasibility of making an Equal Length Header for the ISF similar to the one they make for the RCF. Since I am a past customer, live nearby, have another vehicle and am a pretty nice guy they called and asked if I might be interested in having my car test fit for Equal Length Headers.
While discussing this with them, I suggested that if modified RCF Headers wouldn't fit, maybe they could accomplish the equal length task by using long tubes. Well, it seems that RCF headers will in fact fit in an ISF, and the headers they built for me were also Long Tube. How sweet is that? But, the EL, LT headers must be used with the PPE Exhaust due to the exit point of the collector.
I went for Dyno testing yesterday, and it appears I lost 7HP at the top end and gained only 1.5 lb ft of torque at the high end. I also gained grunt at the bottom. My Seat of the Pants tells me the car is faster.
I don't know why it ran out of breath at the high end. Nothing else has changed.
PPE Headers
PPE Dual Mode Exhaust - With HiFlow Cats
Takeda Intake
As far as sound goes, in the cabin with the exhaust open, the drone remains in the same area (between 1900 and 2100 RPM) but is much lower in volume. I can now carry on a phone conversion (with bluetooth hands free) with the exhaust in the open position. The volume level does increase, however, when under acceleration through that RPM range.
Now the ISF does not have a lumpy engine by any means, but it idle with the old headers, the sound (both inside and outside the car) had a sort of lumpy growling quality to it. The sound is now very smooth, again inside and outside. The harmonics seemed to have changed.
Edit - My wheels and tires have changed. I'm now running RCF wheels with larger 295 vs 285 rears, so wheel weight is up a bit!
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