Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: ABS Light Coming On Randomly After Several Minutes Of Driving
Oct 9, 2013
The past couple of months my ABS light has been coming on randomly. It comes on after several minutes (or hours sometimes) of driving then stays on. I wrote it off as a bad sensor but now, even when under light braking, if I hit even a small bump in the road, I can feel the ABS activating in the pedal. Seems like more than a sensor to me. I know I have a front wheel bearing going out but how would that be related? 2007 F150 5.4 2wd
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I have a 2007 F-150 that I'm having a little problem with. The tire pressure indicator light has kept coming on almost every time I drive it. I checked the tires, all register 35 pounds cold which is what it calls for. It has been going on in hot or cold weather for the past 4-5 months but will go off after I'd say 5 or 10 minutes of driving it. I really can't figure out what is going on with it. Bad sensor maybe? I looked to find something about this but couldn't or I didn't look hard enough.
2007 Ford F-150, Supercab, Lariat, 4X2, 6FT5 box,
5.4 Triton V8, black in color, gold bottom trim, 3.73 LSD,
9.75 axle, tow pckg. 0-60 recently clocked at 7.7 sec with
no tune.
Mods: Magnaflow SI/DO exhaust.
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My 2005 STX 4.6 fuel pump crashed a couple of months ago. A couple of days after having it replaced I started having hard/rough starting problems accompanied by a 0300 and 0301 code. I reset the codes several times and they only come back during the 3rd or 4th hard start, never while driving. The hard starts occur after the engine is shut off for more than a few minutes after driving. I have replaced the plugs, #1 COP, remaining COP boots, Cam Pos Sensor, Fuel pump drive module and had and FI. Also had the fuel pump replaced again on warranty thinking maybe a bad check valve. Again...it worked perfectly for a day and now I'm back to square one. Haven't gotten any codes YET but its only been a day. Bad injector? EGR?
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Prius a/c start to blow hot air after driving the car for 30 min. In the next day when i start the car, it blowing cold air.
A/C starts to blow warm air if i drive the car more than 30min. look like once the engine heats up its start to blow hot air. What will be the issue?
Only twice i got the VSC and Engine Check light. but it went off after 2 days. i Took it to the auto shop and did a scan, they said its giving lots of code (codes like: C1241, U0073, U0123,U0124, U0126, U0293, U0111) and they have reset the codes. and told if you get warning lights again then they can try.
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I recently had my alternator and battery replaced due to my truck dying out randomly on me, tested the alternator and failed, replaced battery, and still got the same results, battery gauge seems to drop quickly, what could be going on, I have been told to replace the fusible link that goes from the battery to the alternator....
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So I was driving my 2004 6.0 auto on the freeway today when the tow haul light randomly started flashing, nothing felt wrong until I stopped, then when I went to pull away it wouldn't shift down from 5th according to my livewire ts says under the commanded gear gauge. It shifts into 6 and overdrive fine. I turned the truck off, the light went off but as soon as I put it in drive it jumped around from 1-2-5 and back down until it locked in 5 again and the light started flashing again. What this could be?
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04 Kia Optima (116,000miles) will drive ok for 20 min. or so (last time 10 miles) I'll hit a bump, stop, turn a corner, or drive on hills (basically any condition) and it suddenly acts up after a small jerk (engine light comes and goes and I cannot get anyone to read codes correctly). I have to drive with my foot on the gas at stops if it gets really bad and it wont come down from above 40mph unless I break and feels like it wants to stall when trying to accelerate again after stops and difficult to sometimes get past 30/40mph, Once shut off, It has trouble starting, but will start.
I have had the PO335Crank shaft position sensor replaced three times, (last time by dealer) New battery, new spark plugs, the throttle body was cleaned, and high octane gas cleaner in the tank as well. Every time I take it in (6 or 7 times, different places), they say "it's not acting up right now so we don't know" .... I am curious about broken flexpipe..
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I recently installed a 2" aluminum HBS leveling kit on my F150. ('04 FX4 SCrew, 5.4, 61K miles). I was excited to finally improve the truck rather than fix something. The install was straightforward and I didnt have any issues (other than Cleveland, OH rust).
After installing the kit I noticed a whirring noise coming from the front end while driving, but I didnt think much of it and I got an alignment a couple of days later. Immediately after the alignment, the problem is still there. It sounds just like aggressive mud tires driving down the road, so I think it is coming from the tires.
The noise follows the speed of the truck (the pitch gets lower as you slow down) but you cant really start to hear it until you slow down below 45 mph. It is much more noticeable at lower speeds (probably because of the lower wind noise in the cab). I dont think it would be a CV joint/axle issue, but who knows. I am considering taking it back to have the alignment checked, but I figured I would check on here before I do.
I just bought this truck last fall, and it is one step away from being traded in because of the countless nuances this thing has (wet floors and consequently rust everywhere on the inside of the cab, rattling window trim, shaking bed, squeaky rear window, noisy phasors).
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I have an issue with my seat moving and the dome light coming on while driving. This happened several times and I checked the fuses and for a possible loose connection. When I jiggle the key in the ignition the seat would start to move. I was trying to replicate the issue. Today the seat moved and the light came on but this time the truck shut off... I am thinking it maybe something in the ignition....
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My 2008 F-150 recently started making a funny noise from what seems like the front right wheel.
The weird thing is that it will only make the noise while accelerating. The second i take my foot off the it stops. Also, the sound stops if i put it into 4WD and does not happen at all in 4WD.
It has nothing to do with turning or breaking. It only makes the sound in 2WD while my foot is on the gas.
The sound is kind of weird. It sounds like something is loose, and it sounds similar to tin vibrating on metal.
At first i thought it may have been heat shielding rubbing on something, I checked under the truck and found nothing loose.
It's weird that it only happen in 2wd yet in the front end.
Someone had mentioned that it may have something to do with the fact that there is no torque on the front wheels in 2wd and when i put it into 4wd it put torque on it, whatever might be loose then becomes tight.
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Yellow brake light turned on while driving in rain, then for some reason turned off. I had read somewhere this may be an indicator of wear on brake pads. I have a 90 mi. commute round trip, I will check again if this turns on and stays on. For now, it is off. what could be causing this?
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just picked up a high mile f-150. (146,000) 4x4 light not coming on. jumpered out the vacuum solenoid first, nothing. Then found out I could try to tap on the actuator motor at transfer case. It worked. Just wondering if i keep exercising the actuator motor, if it will continue to work, sounds like the previous owner did not put it in 4x4 for a long time. also, if needed, where is a good place to purchase the replacement actuator motor? If this truck has heated seats ( it is a lariat) , where is it controlled from? Seems to ride a little rougher than i expected. new tires, but it seems a little harsh. I have an f-350 as well. it seems to ride just about as good.
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As the title states, my brake light on the dash keeps on coming on intermittently. I can't figure it out. Fluid level is fine, and I added more just to be sure. Pads and rotors all got replaced within the last 9 months. I don't see any chafed or broken wires to the wheel/abs sensors. I don't know where else to look
Also when the light comes on the pads on the rear passenger side seem to drag a little bit. I can't feel it, but I can hear it just slightly.
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Odometer light on my 07 f150 was coming on and off,read the thread here on how to change bulb. Got that done no problem but the odometer is now blank. Read the thread saying it was a common issue and to look for a bad or broken soder. My problem is i can't figure out how to get the circuit board off of the cluster after i pull off all the bulbs and screws. My local ford service dept wants to replace entire cluster at a hefty price.
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'08 Ford F-150 with 53,000 miles. ABS indicator light has been coming on intermittently for a week now. Mechanic said its a left front wheel sensor code. Wants to charge $98 to diagnose. Says it could be bad sensor or broken wire.
I have limited mechanical experience. Is this something I can tackle? Or is this a major job?
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I have a Mazda MPV and am hearing a noise coming from under my car after I have been driving for about 10 minutes. It sounds like a squeaky hamster wheel that needs to be oiled on one side. It seems to speed up when I am going faster, but as soon as I step down on the brake pedal, it stops completely, even if my car is still moving. As soon as I lift my foot off the brake pedal, the noise is back. My car guy could not get the car to make the noise, but I hear it everyday. He checked the brakes and said they are fine.
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I've got a 2006 F150 FX4 with a 5.4L 3V
A couple of months ago, I got a random "amber wrench light" on the dash. After I shut the vehicle off, it would go away. Over the last month, it's been coming back on more frequently....pretty near every time I drive the truck. I'm also noticing a bit of a dead spot in the pedal at times....though it's never failed me completely.
After a quick Google search, I was led to believe it could be a throttle body issue. Before replacing the throttle body, it was suggested to remove and clean the throttle body itself....which I did.
I'm still getting the amber wrench light, but now I'm also getting a random high idle after driving. If I throw it in park, it will idle up to 2,000RPM. I initially assumed I may have created a vacuum leak of some sort, but when I shut the engine off and restart it (or even blip the key off and on again quick before the engine dies, it comes back to life and idles fine? This tells me that it isn't a vacuum issue.
The strangest part, is that it's not tripping any codes what so ever?
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I just changed all the pads and rotors on my 08 F350. The brakes are much better now, only the rear brakes got quite hot after driving it for about 15 min. Turns out the rear parking brakes are dragging on the back brakes. I adjusted the parking brake on both sides so they no longer drag and the heat issue is gone. The problem now it the parking brake does not engage until the pedal runs out of travel. Any tips to get this just right? Will the parking brake self adjust like the old drum brakes and shoes use to do years ago?
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Just picked up a high mile f-150 (146,000) 4x4 light not coming on. Jumpered out the vacuum solenoid first, nothing. Then found out I could try to tap on the actuator motor at transfer case. it worked,. Just wondering if i keep exercising the actuator motor, if it will continue to work, sounds like the previous owner did not put it in 4x4 for a long time. Also, if needed, where is a good place to purchase the replacement actuator motor? If this truck has heated seats ( it is a lariat), where is it controlled from? .... Seems to ride a little rougher than I expected. New tires, but it seems a little harsh. I have an f-350 as well. It seems to ride just about as good.
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I just got an Egde Evo which I installed and everything looked great. After a few runs, I noticed the ABS light coming on an soon after that my transmission goes to limp mode (the wrench lights up).
I receive the DTC error: P2106 on the Edge Evo.
I have gone back to Factory default, but it keeps coming back, ie. the ABS light lights up and the Trans goes to Forced Limited Power (according to the Evo).
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As I'm driving along, I get the battery light coming for a few minutes then going out. Is this a sign my alternator is on the fritz?
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