Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: A/C Works For About 10 Mins Then Goes Warm
Jun 20, 2017
My 2004 with 5.4L Lariat is struggling to keep me cool. The AC works fine on mild days but when it gets into the upper 80s it works for about 10 mins then goes warm. If I shut down the AC for about 5-10 mins. it begins cooling again.
I first tried a retail charging kit with no improvement. Then I had the system drained and refilled with die to look for leaks, but neither had any immediate impact. So it is not a leak, but something else failing.
What are the next best troubleshooting steps for an AC system?
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5.4 V8... A/C works for 30min. then stops blowing cold air. Turn system off for 15min. and it will blow cold air again for another 15min. then stops again. Passenger floor area gets cold and can hear fan blowing but no air coming out of vents.
In winter now and stops blowing hot air after 30-40min of driving. Turn system off for 15min. and will blow hot again. Had new A/C compressor and a/c clutch installed back in summer.???
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I have an 06 f150 xlt 4wd 5.4. I bought the truck about two months ago and have come to realize that my 4wd is not working. The light works and you can hear the clunk but recently we got alot of rain and i was going down a georgia clay dirt road and almost got stuck in the middle of the road. i tried 4hi and 4lo but only the rear wheels would spin. I had my wife put it in 4wd while i looked under the truck and the half shafts do turn in 4wd. which doesn't make any sense to me. I also unplugged to vacuum line from the intake and capped it off to try and let the hubs engage that way but still nothing. why would the half shafts be turning but no power to the front wheels in 4wd? does that mean the iwe's are stuck engaged? Which would explain why they turn all the time. But if they are engaged, whether they are stuck or vacuum leak or whatever the reason, shouldn't the front wheels be getting power.
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I have a 2006 F-150 S/Crew and I seem to have the same intermittant odometer problem as many of the folks in that 1999-2003 group. The odometer comes and goes, flashes intermittantly and sometimes doesn't work for days.
Can it be repaired in the same fashion as those older units? The dealer is more than willing to sell me a new cluster (obviously). They say that there is "no way to possibly repair those odometer problems and we see them all the time."
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As the title states, my odometer back light works just fine, but nothing displays on it. No mileage reading, no nothing. How to fix it? Found plenty about fixing the back light, but can't find anything similar to this issue.
I've had the battery off for 30-40 minutes and the issue persists after restarting.
2004 F150 XLT SuperCab 5.4L
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I have an 08 that the heater either works all hot or cold. It seems that when i try to control the temp it isnt consistent. It will be on hot, turned all the way the right in the red. Great, it gets too warm in the truck so turn it down a little. Then it is too cold. I only turned it down a little, not even in the blue zone yet. I turn it up a little and it is still cold. Turn it all the way up and it is too hot again. What is up with this. I hope it isnt the blend door syndrome. The truck only has 30,000 on it.
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on my 04 supercab f150. one moment door locks work, the next nothing. started this weekend. its a bone stock truck with 128000 miles. sometimes work sometimes don't. have wiggled harness and connections outside the door. worked fine, pulled it out of the shop and parked it now not working again.
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Recently my truck is only blowing heat or air conditioning on full blast in my 2004 Ford F-150 (New style, not heritage).
Level 1, 2, or 3 is exactly the same and blows almost nothing, then if I switch it to 4 it is full power.
I just don't know what exactly I will need to change. I know it would be a resistor pack somewhere that probably failed, I just don't know where it would be.
Do I just need a new control switch, or do I need a new heater fan?
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I have a 2004 Ford F150 and the battery keeps dying. We do not use the truck a lot and it sometimes sits outside for 2-4 weeks without being used. If it sits that long, it might be completely dead, but starts up easily with a jump and then works fine for a while. The battery is a 650 amp Motocraft w prorated replacement from 37-100 mo. The local Ford dealer has checked it several times in the past 2 yr and said it is fine, and that if the truck sits for a couple of weeks the battery will die. Is that right? I am not a car moron, nor am I an expert, but I am concerned that they are missing a small draw somewhere in the system. Should I be concerned about a draw or is this just something that happens to batteries as they get older?
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I'm having issues with my a/c blowing randomly warm air. At idle (stop lights, heavy traffic) the cold air will kick off but the fan will remain constant. Once I'm back up to full speed, the cold air will come back. It also works if I turn the a/c and fan off for a few minutes and turn it back when I'm at highway speed. I've recharged it and when it blows cold it will freeze me out. I'm thinking its a possible compressor issue?
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I just purchased a 2005 F150 (4.6L / 4 door). The lot I purchased it from had picked it up at auction. Tell-Tell signs indicate it was a repo. (Only one key, no fobs, locking fuel filler door jimmied and spring removed, scratches on upper corner of driver's side door and rubber bent back.
The power locks switch on arm rest works on all doors except driver's. The drivers door does lock and unlock manually. I am wanting a good hypothesis before I begin tearing into the door panel.
If the latching mechanism was damaged, it wouldn't lock manually, right? If the electronics were damaged the other doors wouldn't work right? So, my hypothesis is the actuator on driver's door. Do I start searching for/locating possible replacement parts?
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I have a 1996 Ranger that the Heater/AC blower only works when the outside air temp is above 45 degrees. I have replaced the relay, and the blower motor resistor. What could be causing this?
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so im a fairly new owner of a 2008 f150 lariat 4x4 5.4l3v bought in September of 2013 with 32358 miles. this engine was built in 10/9/2007 and was just before the spark plug update so I have the black cop on this engine. and on cold day start ups it sounds like a diesel till warm and then it still has a slight knock to it vary slight is this normal or is this a tall tail sight of the phaser issue or spark plug issue coming to light love this truck and will fully rebuild it if I know what to do, ford dealer says that its normal and that if I lose power at some point I will need a new engine with this low mileage.
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I purchased an '08 F150 about 6 months ago, and have a problem that two mechanics haven't been able to solve. The truck has a 5.4L engine. Unfortunately, I bought from an auction and the 30 day warranty expired before I realized the problem.
After a longer drive (30 minutes to work) the engine is warm, and I always back into my parking spot or driveway. In low gear, it begins to idle very rough and the engine shakes. If I leave it long enough, it will stall. Usually I pop it into neutral, give it some gas, and its fine. I just bought a camper trailer, so I'll need to use the lower gear when backing up.
So far, the engine has been flushed twice, the solenoid replaced and phaser replaced. The second mechanic has recommended I contact a dealer, but haven't had luck with them with my previous Explorer. What it could be? I will be getting the diagnostic paperwork this week.
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I have an 05 150, 5.4l, My truck idles around 600 rpm when warm, I think that may be slightly low. Not sure what to check on.
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History: Truck was running okay but acted like a coil was bad when under load. I changed out all the plugs with Motorcraft and put on Summit racing COPs.
After the plug and cop change the truck will run rough after it is warmed up. I changed back to the old COPs and it runs the same.
First I replaced the MAF sensor after finding many posts on here about it. No change.
I read a bunch of posts on oil causing the problem so I used 10-30w and nothing changed.
I searched for a vacuum leak with carb cleaner and couldn't find one. I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the throttle body.
When I did the plug change I disconnected the PCM without disconnecting the battery. Would this cause this type of problem?
I think this is about all the stuff I found to try in the threads that came up through searching.
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My 2005 4.6 supercrew is worthless for short trips.....I am freezing and pick any other ford to drive.....my v10 heats up totally in 5 minutes so I know something is not right.....I have changed the thermostat....( its been like this since new ) the fluid levels are perfect....what is up ?
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I have a 05 fx4 5.4L with 85k on it. It has started idling rough when i come to a stop light or slow down to 10 mph or less. It only does it once in a while. There doesn't seem to be any real pattern. The motor shakes until you rev it up and then it goes away.
I have cleaned the maf, put in new air filter and fuel filter. And put in a new battery. Would a coil act like that? Maybe plugs? Or a vacuum leak?
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I have 2004 f150 small v8 (4.7?) Has about 92000 miles.
When warm truck runs excellently. At first start up the idle is very rough and raw gas smell for about 4 minutes then truck runs like new. Will start and restart great until it cools down overnite.
My actron says missfire cyl 3. Did not fix it. Dealer says that on start up compression is zero in cylinder three but is 100% when it warms up. Suggested I run seafoam through it. He thinks it has a vacuum leak or carbon at start.
In my limited knowledge I am thinking:
sticky lifter
bent push rods
warp valve
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My 2006 F150 was purchased by me in early 2009 with about 28,000 miles on it. It's an XLT crew cab 4X4 with the 5.4. Stock except for a leveling kit and an aftermarket head unit. It currently has about 59,000 miles and has been babied since I purchased it. About 3 years ago I started noting some issues:
A. Oil pressure dummy gauge is all over the place. Some times it will show no oil pressure. Other times it is all the way to the highest mark. Other times the needle has gone 180 degrees past where normal is and is actualy pointing straight down towards the floor.
B. Recently my alternator dummy gauge has started doing the same thing as my oil pressure gauge.
C. The backlight behind my odometer works intermittently, but mostly not at all.
D. My dome light will flicker when first turned on. It doesn't matter which door is opened or if the override switch it turned on. It takes several seconds to come on and will flicker like there is a poor connection somewhere, but stays on once its on.
E. Blower fan will occasionally stop blowing. Once the climate control switch is turned to off, then back to on it resumes working. This doesn't happen often, but does occasionally.
Fortunately, the truck has not left me stranded and I want to keep it that way. We are getting ready to sale my wife's Toyota and this will become her daily driver. I want to take care of any issues before she starts driving it. Are these all separate issues or is there one common issue which could be causing them all?
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My brother's 5.4 has been rough idling and dying at stops and in reverse for a few weeks now. Today it threw a code and he finally had me look at it and it's a P0345 code. I was thinking cam phasers possibly, but I didn't think that would cause a code to throw. Also, all I hear about cam phasers is that it makes the truck sound like a diesel, but his when it's about to die sounds like the engine is about to drop out the bottom of the engine bay. Really rough, REALLY loud knocking, etc... What we should be looking at replacing to get this thing back into shape?
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