I have a 2004 5.4 and the A/C cycles on and off too frequently making it take too long to cool the cab. Had A/C service done this weekend and initially I thought it worked, but now a few days later, it still cycles on and off. Is this a simple relay or switch somewhere?
View 1 RepliesCompressor seems to cycle to frequently, every 5 Seconds. Morning and Night the ac is freezing. During the Day it's cool but not cold.
Hooked up gauges and the high side is around 150 and the low side will go up to 45 and drop to 25 ( this is when the compressor engages and disengages.)
Ambient temp is just under 80. Where to go from here? 2003 Sport Trac...
My 05 was running rough and misfiring quite frequently. After much deliberation, I took it in for a diagnostic hookup. The dealer said my driver side cat was clogged. Lucky for me, I was just under the warranty period(79673 miles). I have had it replaced and I can feel a noticeable difference in the way it runs. Could a clogged cat have made it run that poorly or am is it just in my head that it is running alot better?
View 7 RepliesMy 2008 did a strange thing last night -- the ICE was short cycling at a stoplight. It would start and then immediately turn off, then immediately start again. It did this about 5 cycles. Cold night, coldish engine, heater on, recent repair from being rear-ended (5 days since got it back from body shop). 12V battery seems good (12.3 volts no load, car not in ready mode; 11.6V withheadlights on and car off). No purpose could be served by such short cycles. We turned off heater and then the light changed and we were rolling forward and engine short cycled one more time and then the behavior stopped for the rest of the trip.
View 7 RepliesMy truck has been sitting more lately, which means up to a week without starting and running. Each time this happens I run into a dead battery. And I mean dead. I've charged it full and then used the truck no problem.
We did a test where we unhooked the negative terminal wiring clamp and ran a meter to check for amp draw. We did this by touching the meter leads to the negative post clamp (unhooked) and to the negative post on the battery. It gives a reading of ~1.5 amps. Trying to figure out where the drain might be.
We'll jut pull each fuse to see if we find the electrical area drawing the amps.
2008 F350 V10 CC SB DRW 4x4
When using my Sirius on my 2008 LS 460 the sat goes in and out all the time regardless of the weather, environment etc.
View 14 RepliesCar is a 2004 1.8T GLI. My A/C seems to be cycling on and off sporadically. Some days it will work great and other days it is non existent. For example, this morning I had the A/C blowing ice cold with everything running as it should including the fan. Well now that a couple hours have passed, my A/C is now dead and only blowing hot air in my face as usual. Now, I have had the refrigerant levels checked and refilled twice now by an A/C specialist. He assured that all mechanical aspects of the A/C system are fine and that I might have an electrical problem. With that said, I have gone through a list of possible causes. Here is what I have checked so far.
-All of my fuses including the three on top of the battery have been tested and came out fine.
-Refrigerant levels are within spec (checked for leaks by A/C tech and found nothing. Twice.)
-Both of my fans are working. The small fan engages with either rising temperature or when the A/C decides to work.
As of now it seems that I am not receiving constant power to the compressor as it will engage randomly throughout the day(s) if left on. I have no clue where to look next.
I understand the engine turns on and off frequently (coming to a stop it turns off, then when going it turns on). I have noticed that sometimes when at the stop it will turn off, then immediately back on, and off again, even with my foot on the break.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2009 prius with 85k miles on it, bought it two weeks ago, right off the bat I noticed that the left headlight, while driving, will frequently go out. It comes back on when I turn the headlights off and on again, and goes out again later.
Sometimes it stays on, other times it goes right out. I took the headlamp off, disconnected all wires, and cleaned it of any corrosion that was found and reconnected it, and the light still went out. What would be causing this/ what a fix is non mechanic oriented?
Worth mentioning that I've noticed condensation build up on the inside of the headlamp occasionally, and one time both lights flickered and then went out, but that hasn't happened since.
I have a 2009 prius with 85k miles on it, bought it two weeks ago, right off the bat I noticed that the left headlight, while driving, will frequently go out. It comes back on when I turn the headlights off and on again, and goes out again later. Sometimes it stays on, other times it goes right out. I took the headlamp off, disconnected all wires, and cleaned it of any corrosion that was found and reconnected it, and the light still went out. What would be causing this/ what a fix is non mechanic oriented?
View 2 RepliesMy Santa Fe 2004 V6 2.7L 97K recently downshifts and revs up while I'm driving. It happened about a week ago once or twice. I thought I was stepping on the gas too aggressively. But last 2-3 days it came back and more frequently to a point that I'm afraid to take it to the highway.
I checked the transmission oil, it looks pink and full. What problem am I potentially looking at? Would it be cheap to fix? Do Hyundai dealers cover it under the 10-year/100K mile warranty thing?
I have a 2004 Prius with about 50K miles. It is driven every day. I recently noticed that the motor doesn't shut off as frequently as it used to when I stop at a light. It then also shows the battery as almost empty (1 bar) on the touch screen. Gas mileage also seems to be a little lower than it used to be. Other than that the car drives fine. Could this be an indication of the battery starting to go?
View 19 RepliesDuring the last week, or slightly less I suddenly started hearing the brake boost pump running much more frequently than normal in my 2008 and is also producing a "knocking" noise along with its run noise which increases in frequency as the pump speed increases. No problems with the engine coolant pump for the thermos, and the inverter pump was replaced yesterday along with a replaced "bolt" in the steering column for the recall.
View 4 RepliesCharging system failure light comes on about once a week, then the ABS & traction control lights are coming on and I can feel a vibration from the pedal and a humming noise! Replaced the sensors which fixed it or so I thought. It started doing it again. What is causing this & is this a common problem?
View 2 RepliesMy 2001 Expedition 5.4L sat for 2+ years and due to a new child, I put it back on the road late last fall. Last week, we had our 1st "must use AC" day and it didn't work.
I listened to see if the compressor was cycling and it never engaged. I picked up a gauge and r134a kit.
Outside temp was about 60F, I think my therm was showing 57F to be exact. When I checked the low side pressure with the engine off, the gauge reading was below 15. It made sense that the compressor wouldn't start at the pressure. I put in about a 1/2 can with the motor running A/C on max and it was showing 40, but still no compressor cycling. I then shut the motor down, let it sit for about 3 mins and restarted. This time, the compressor started to cycle, it was cycling quickly though, I'd say about every 3 seconds.
With the compressor cycling, the pressure would jump from 17 to 40. With the motor off, it would read 50. Still no cold air. I put in about 14oz of R134a.
I guess what I need to know is if I should I keep adding R134a until it stabilizes around 40, even when the compressor is cycling? Also, where should the static pressure be? It's sitting at 50 now. I've been told it should be around 80, but I'm thinking that might be dependent on outside temp.
BTW, I'm now thinking that the reason that I'm not getting cold air and the compressor keeps cycling is because I need to add a lot more R-134a. I think when the compressor starts and draws coolant, the low side pressure drops to low, causing the compressor to turn off. When the compressor cycles off, it sees the low side pressure at 40 and starts it up again causing the coolant draw and low side pressure to drop to low again. Am I right on this thought? It looks like I'll need to add another can to get the pressure to stay above 22 when the compressor is running.
One other thing... How much R-134a the system takes? I need to know because I have access to a vacuum.
I thought originally I had a leak so I tested with dual gauges I'm getting 85 psi on low and high side, which I believe is good. So I tried grounding the low sensor, then high sensor, then both, then both just pulled out and any combo possible. Still not engaging. Switched out the relay, checked fuses, still not engaging. Tried taking shim out of compressor still nothing. Jumped the relay and it will engage and air comes out cold. What should I check next?
View 8 RepliesRecently, my mechanic told me that I need to replace my 4wd vacuum switch (sits on the passenger side fender). After replacing the switch I drove the truck about an hour. On my way home, I noticed that blower would blow for a few minutes then cycle on an off. I was running the a/c on my drive home.Could the vacuum switch be faulty and causing this problem?
View 7 RepliesI purchased an 89 F350 460 EFI factory air. The air worked fine for the first 6 hour on the drive home then It just stopped blowing cold. When I got home I saw the air gap on the clutch was quite wide so I took the washers out, still was too wide. I could only get the clutch to pull in if I tapped it in by hand and it only stayed in for a short time. This was all last fall.
Today I replaced the clutch, compressor and drier, took it in and had it charged. They replaced the pressure switch because the compressor cycle on and off. Even after replacing the switch it still cycles on and off and I still have no air! They removed some of the charge but still no air. The clutch pulls in and runs for 2 sec every 15- 20 seconds. I assume the reason it cycles is a high pressure. What should I be looking at now?????
I have a 2002 F250 on which the AC compressor clutch is not cycling: I have checked and added coolant so low pressure is correct (don't have high pressure gauge). I checked the clutch air gap and it is at 0.030 " as specified in another post. I replaced the low pressure AC cycling switch (on the evaporator/dryer). With the AC on, I disconnected the AC cutoff switch and the clutch disengages. This circuit has the correct (>10V) going to it. I am thinking it could have something to do with the AC relay.
When you switch the ATC to a setting other than AC or Max AC, the clutch disengages fine. I noticed this problem because the AC shuts off when it is really hot, after I have been driving for a long while, about 1 hour or more. If you shut off AC, wait a few minutes, then turn on it works fine.
My AC compressor failed so I replaced it.
I put in 1 can of R134, and I don't see the compressor cycling.
How do I remove the connector to the accumulator so I can jump it and force the AC to run.
I recently put a new clutch on (after living without AC for a year and a half!) and now the AC is on, it just doesn't cycle off and after a while the air stops blowing. I assuming this is from the coils freezing over and icing up not letting air by? What do I need to check to get it to cycle off?
View 14 Replies