Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: A/C Blowing Randomly Warm Air
Jun 15, 2013
I'm having issues with my a/c blowing randomly warm air. At idle (stop lights, heavy traffic) the cold air will kick off but the fan will remain constant. Once I'm back up to full speed, the cold air will come back. It also works if I turn the a/c and fan off for a few minutes and turn it back when I'm at highway speed. I've recharged it and when it blows cold it will freeze me out. I'm thinking its a possible compressor issue?
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History: A few months back I had a leak repaired in my cooling system. I noticed the other night that my radiator was nearly empty again, so I've filled it back up, but haven't fixed it yet.
As summer is over, I no longer need my AC. However that caused me to notice that at its coolest setting, the vents are blowing warm air (maybe 15ยบ warmer than outside) and that seems high to me.
My immediate thought is that the heater control valve may be leaking/damaged/corroded.
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My air conditioning constantly blows out warm air - even if I set it to the lowest temperature ("LO").
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I have an 05 prius that has been a great car 193,000 miles with no issues, until now. AC started blowing warm air so took it to mechanic who replaced the compressor. Blew cold for a day and started blowing warm again. Took it back to mechanic replaced the evaporator. Same thing blew cold for a day and then warm air next day.
Mechanic told me to take it to Toyota to get it looked at and they said 3 way coolant valve so we replaced that and still blowing warm air. Took it back to Toyota for the second time and they said it was a bad compressor so we replaced that and still no cold air. No AC in Florida summer is getting old fast need to get this fixed.
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A few weeks ago I took my 2004 Prius into the dealer to get an AC diagnostics. At that time it was hardly working just blowing warm air. It did seem to be a bit colder tho when the car was in motion. With that visit I was told that there is a leak in my AC system and they recharged it and added a dye, to determine where the leak was coming from. I was told to use the AC as much as possible from then till my follow up appointment.
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The A/C on my 2004 Accord has started blowing warm air out of the 2 driver side vents, but still blows cold air out of the 2 passenger side vents. It also occasionally blows condensation out of the 2 cold passenger vents. When this same thing happened last summer, the condenser and compressor were replaced within 3 weeks of each other. It is less than a year later and the same problem is occurring. Even more odd; every once in a while the 2 driver side vents will blow cold for just a few minutes, then revert to blowing warm air. The car does not have dual climate controls.
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I've recently purchased a 2007 Prius and I just noticed few days go that A/C blows warm air (weather was fair when I bought it and I can't remember if it really worked or not then) and middle vents do not blow any air. I'm not sure if two problems are connected but I do want to get both fixed without spending $$$ at the dealership. Where can I start?
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My 2004 with 5.4L Lariat is struggling to keep me cool. The AC works fine on mild days but when it gets into the upper 80s it works for about 10 mins then goes warm. If I shut down the AC for about 5-10 mins. it begins cooling again.
I first tried a retail charging kit with no improvement. Then I had the system drained and refilled with die to look for leaks, but neither had any immediate impact. So it is not a leak, but something else failing.
What are the next best troubleshooting steps for an AC system?
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Truck shifts great from 2 to 4h to 4l and back to 2. However, at random times - any speed - usually when slowing down - I hear/feel something engage and there is usually a ratchet sound. I figured out its the 4x4 - if I switch to 4h then back to 2 quick, it stops. What the heck.
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so im a fairly new owner of a 2008 f150 lariat 4x4 5.4l3v bought in September of 2013 with 32358 miles. this engine was built in 10/9/2007 and was just before the spark plug update so I have the black cop on this engine. and on cold day start ups it sounds like a diesel till warm and then it still has a slight knock to it vary slight is this normal or is this a tall tail sight of the phaser issue or spark plug issue coming to light love this truck and will fully rebuild it if I know what to do, ford dealer says that its normal and that if I lose power at some point I will need a new engine with this low mileage.
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I purchased an '08 F150 about 6 months ago, and have a problem that two mechanics haven't been able to solve. The truck has a 5.4L engine. Unfortunately, I bought from an auction and the 30 day warranty expired before I realized the problem.
After a longer drive (30 minutes to work) the engine is warm, and I always back into my parking spot or driveway. In low gear, it begins to idle very rough and the engine shakes. If I leave it long enough, it will stall. Usually I pop it into neutral, give it some gas, and its fine. I just bought a camper trailer, so I'll need to use the lower gear when backing up.
So far, the engine has been flushed twice, the solenoid replaced and phaser replaced. The second mechanic has recommended I contact a dealer, but haven't had luck with them with my previous Explorer. What it could be? I will be getting the diagnostic paperwork this week.
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I have an 05 150, 5.4l, My truck idles around 600 rpm when warm, I think that may be slightly low. Not sure what to check on.
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History: Truck was running okay but acted like a coil was bad when under load. I changed out all the plugs with Motorcraft and put on Summit racing COPs.
After the plug and cop change the truck will run rough after it is warmed up. I changed back to the old COPs and it runs the same.
First I replaced the MAF sensor after finding many posts on here about it. No change.
I read a bunch of posts on oil causing the problem so I used 10-30w and nothing changed.
I searched for a vacuum leak with carb cleaner and couldn't find one. I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the throttle body.
When I did the plug change I disconnected the PCM without disconnecting the battery. Would this cause this type of problem?
I think this is about all the stuff I found to try in the threads that came up through searching.
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My 2005 4.6 supercrew is worthless for short trips.....I am freezing and pick any other ford to drive.....my v10 heats up totally in 5 minutes so I know something is not right.....I have changed the thermostat....( its been like this since new ) the fluid levels are perfect....what is up ?
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OK, 05 v8 4.6l
I am having very random overheating for last few weeks. Started randomly one day in stop n go traffic. Thought maybe struck tstat so replaced it. Same thing...replaced water pump, fan clutch, serpentine belt, coolant reservoir cap since then. During all those replacement I flushed system with garden hose. Burped system to best of my knowledge. Still overheats randomly. Seems to happen every day now at hot times (100*). I drive around all day for work so been watching it closely. Temp gun runs 190* on tstat housing at operating temp. When it was rising up in temp I pulled over and temp gun read 200 ish.... it is in fact getting hot. Any freaking clues? Oh and have pressure tested good....combustion test good...
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My sons 05 F150 is randomly dying during low idle. We removed and cleaned the TB and cleaned the MF sensor. For example, if he is coming up to a stop or slowing down, the truck will die, but starts right back up. So far no CEL and truck seems to idle and run fine, just ever so often will die.
Anything to check on the 5.4s
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About a month ago, I was driving 50 mph in my 06 screw on a dirt road. There was an old wood bridge that was not as flush as I was expecting. Jolted the truck pretty good but it kept on trucking. However, a few seconds after the jolt, the power to the AC cut out. All I had to do was turn the AC to "off" then back on and it'd start working fine. Over the last month, the power randomly cuts out, but will go back on after I switch to "off" then back on. It's happened maybe 3 or 4 times since The Big Jolt.
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Having a misfire problem I can't track down. First issue was random cylinder 8 misfire code. Checked everything, nothing obvious. Cleared code, problem stopped and engine ran fine. Then came back, cylinder 8 misfire. Swapped coil with #5 but problem did not return. Since I assumed it would come back, I went ahead and bought Accell supercoils and new Motorcraft plugs and replaced them all (120k miles, no broken plugs ). Truck ran great on the test drive! Then it sits overnight and bam, cylinder 5 misfire as soon as I start it next morning. Then after messing with it I get cylinder 5 bad coil (code 355 I think). Put one of the Ford factory coils back back on #5, no change and still misfiring. New plug, new coil on all cylinders... Why did it move from #8 to #5? If it was an in injector, seems it would still be #8 since I did not mess with those.
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At around 100K miles started to get the dreaded P0340 and P0344 that occurs randomly - engine cold, engine hot, rainy, hot, cold, you get the picture. Only occurs at startup. Shutdown/Clear Code/Restart and all is well for days... otherwise the engine runs fine. Have replaced the CMP sensors, thoroughly cleaned CMP and crankshaft sensor connectors, even replaced the alternator. I would like to tone out the wiring back to the PCM connector pins. I am trying to find a pinout diagram. PCM is 7L3A-12A650-GKF.
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I used my A/C on my 04 f 150 for the first time this year today, and it seems cold but not really blowing out of the vents strong. The blower sounds like its blowing at different speeds but not coming out of the vents much different at each speed. What could be causing this, would the cabin air filter cause this???
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I have a 05 fx4 5.4L with 85k on it. It has started idling rough when i come to a stop light or slow down to 10 mph or less. It only does it once in a while. There doesn't seem to be any real pattern. The motor shakes until you rev it up and then it goes away.
I have cleaned the maf, put in new air filter and fuel filter. And put in a new battery. Would a coil act like that? Maybe plugs? Or a vacuum leak?
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