Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 4x4 Pops Out Of Gear Under Acceleration
Dec 18, 2012
I have an 04 f150, 210000 klm, had some issues with the iwe actuator and solenoid, i replaced the driver side hub and actuator, replaced the solenoid. When I put it into 4x4 it engages. Now I have a problem under hard acceleration the 4x4 clunks and pops out of gear, and stays out for a few seconds and reengages. happens in hi and low tried unplugging the solenoid to make sure the actuators were locked. same result. I looked at the 2003 tranfercase issues with the bent shift fork, does my truck have the same transfer case?
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When temperature surpasses 90 degrees inside car (especially while sitting parked while I'm at work) I have problems getting shifter to stay in gear. When I shift in D or R the shifter immediately shifts back to neutral. I found I can hold the shifter in the desired direction and the car goes like normal.
I tried a test of leaving windows slightly open and found the car cooler inside and the gear shift problems did not occur.
The dealership says the gear shift is electronic, no gears. Is there a switch for this under the panel by the gear shift? I have a 2008 Prius, that I recently purchased used. My wife has a 2005 Prius that we purchased new and have never had an issue like this.
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Today was the second time it happened. The first time I let it go.I was braking around a bend for the onramp of a highway when halfway through, I went to accelerate to start getting on the highway when the car wasn't in gear anymore. I hear the RPM's going from 3-5, and checked to make sure the car was in Drive. I thought quickly to put it in sport mode and was able to get on safely. After a couple of seconds I put it back in Drive and it was fine. I made an appointment, but the quickest one I could get was next week.
It's a 2010 Tiguan.
My worry is that they won't be able to replicate it once it's in their possession.
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Got my 97 celica GT 5 speed, the transmission took a crap, pops out of 1st 3rd and 5th gear, grinds into 3rd when cold even before it pops out. first off I read somewhere that this could be just linkage bushings, but the transmission will pop out of gear in first, then will grind going back into 1st and same with 5th, which linkage bushings do I check? is it the ones on the selector shafts? also the trans has 250k on it, and it looks like the fluid hasn't been changed in 200k.
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The shifter will not usually stay in 5th gear for very long. The clutch and flywheel were replaced a few weeks ago just before i purchased the car but this problem has only cropped up in the last week. Could it be shifter linkage adjustment?
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Accent which pops out of gear when I am driving in 4th or 5th. This started 2 months ago, in 4th, but happened in 5th while on a trip from Maryland to Michigan July 30. I took it to the 1st Hyundai dealership and a sales rep drove it and confirmed the problem but said it was safe to drive if I kept my hand on the gear shift and held it in gear. After a while of driving I could not even hold it in 5th, and I drove all the way from Ann Arbor to Baltimore with it in 4th, my hand holding it in gear all the way.
I drove immediately to the dealership where I bought it, and the "mechanic" did not experience the pop out. On the way home from the dealership, it popped out 3 times in a 12 mile trip. I took it to another dealership, same result. I am not comfortable driving this car, especially since I have to keep one hand on the wheel and one hand on the gear shift knob if I am in 4th or 5th. The car is still under warranty.
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My problem is that it pops out of 3rd gear when I let off the gas. I have had this problem before so any tips on setting my shifter linkage?
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Sometimes (most of the time), when I shift from first to second, its either hard to do or it "pops" into gear. There's not like a grinding gear but it sounds like it is hitting something as it goes into gear. If I go 1st to 2nd while stopped, it goes in nice and smooth. It sort of feels like how you can't shift into 1st while you are moving slowly, you have to push on it a bit and then it finally pops in.
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I have a 2005 Elantra GT hatchback that I love with a 5 speed transmission. Lately every time I'm in 2nd gear, the transmission will pop out of 2nd into neutral. This only happens in 2nd gear. I heard it could be the shift collar (i.e. teeth?) that aren't grabbing in that gear.
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I drive a 2001 Toyota Tacoma 5 Speed manual and as recently as last Friday it seems to have developed a problem with third gear. Occasionally the gearshift will actually pop out of third gear back into neutral. It has happened randomly, but also it has happened at least once when I hit a rather large bump, it seemed to have literally knocked it loose from third gear. On one occasion I tested to see if I could pull it out of third gear without stepping on the clutch, and it worked once, but I have tried it again and it doesn't always let me.
To counter this problem I have been just pushing on the stick all the while in third gear to prevent it from popping out and that seems to work, but I'd like to find a real fix for it, and as usual, if possible, a cheap one.
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I have a shudder that happens when turning right at a grade of about 10% while accelerating, and only on that condition. While making a routine drive somewhere, there's a turn with that one condition. Every time it shudders. It doesn't bother me because it happens so rarely...
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I noticed the problem today when I was driving to the store. I was going around 60 and went to pass a car. As soon as I hit the gas there is a popping noise coming from the engine compartment and it had no power. It only does it between 50-65 mph.
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04 F150 4.6 ltr Has a tinny rattle during acceleration . Sounds like 2 hammerheads in a washing machine....
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2007 F150 King Ranche 4wd 5.4 192000 miles.
I started noticing a little stutter when trying to hold 45 mph if I hit a mild incline, and also at 70 or so if i hit an incline.
Around the same time, I noticed that acceleration seemed sluggish when getting on the interstate. Gas mileage dropped from 16-17 mpg combined to 12-13 mpg combined.
Historically, since I bought the truck 3 years ago, if I go WOT to get up to highway speed (Not my normal mode of driving, more of a test) I would get a misfire on cylinder 8.
About 2 weeks ago, driving around town, I got a check engine light. The code said it was rich on bank 2. Cleared the code, it has not come back.
Here is what I have done:
Flushed the tranny (Vehicle history shows this has been done consistently since original purchase)
Changed all 8 plugs (none broke!) and all 8 COPs. - Fixed the misfire on cylinder 8.
Still sluggish and still have the stutter at 45 and 70 on an incline. I know it's not a racecar, but 0-60 in 19.6 seconds seems quite unreasonable.
New Fuel Filter
New Air filter
Cleaned MAF sensor
Had the back pressure on exhaust checked. No blockage there.
My torque app tells me the TPS is functioning normally.
No codes are being thrown, no CEL at this time.
What am I missing? I have a reader that will chart up to 8 sensors as I drive.
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So, my 2004 with its constant tick is now "Missing", but only under moderate acceleration, between 1k and 2k rpms. i.e., : When in OD and wanting to gain a few MPH, but not drop down a gear. I have noticed it in OD and in 3rd. Feels like the engine stops for a split second, several times.
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Here's the story on my truck. Spits and sputters between 40-60 during heavy acceleration and on rare occasions will jerk/pop while at a steady speed. No engine or wrench lights. I thought it might be the fuel filter and changed that, it didn't work. I also ran two bottles (on 2 separate occasions) of Duralube extreme fuel system cleaner, that didn't work either. So, I took it to the Ford dealer for a diagnostic. They had a hard time getting it to act up but said it finally misfired on #8 and recommended replacing the ignition coil and plug. I did that, still have the same symptoms. So, I thought it might be the fuel injector and changed that. Still same symptoms and ZERO dummy lights.
After several YouTube videos, I thought it might be the TPS and got one. Before I changed that however, I cleaned the Mass Air Flow sensor, still same symptoms. I finally changed the TPS, but the engine wouldn't start or run at all, no warning lights yet. When I put the old TPS on, it would run. I unplugged the TPS and it still ran but very rough. Now the engine light IS on! Thinking I purchased a bad part, I took it back to O'Reilly's and they warrantied it out and gave me a new one. I had 19 PO codes. I changed the TPS again, and, it won't start or run at all. Put the old one on and it runs. They cleared the codes and told me they think it could be the ECM/PCM.
Why will a new TPS not work? I still have the same issue of hesitation @ 40-60 during hard acceleration. No hesitation during a moderate acceleration.
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I have an 04 f150 with the 5.4 and recently, within the past few months, I've noticed some "jerking" especially when accelerating. At first, I thought it was the transmission, but the jerking does not coincide with the shift patterns. It jerks and stutters around 45-50 mph and 1500 rpms especially under light acceleration. Not sure if one is connected to the other, but also have no real power, I'm barely moving under heavy acceleration. ...What could I be looking at? I am thinking it has several options, I just need to know which one to explore first...cheap, meaning fuel pump/filter?? MAF?? Or Engine Coils?
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My F150 has 100,000 miles on it and hesitates and bucks on acceleration. Auto zone pulled a code which I can't remember what it was but did say it was the throttle body actuator was stuck open. I pulled the throttle body and cleaned it with throttle body cleaner put it back on. No change.
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I have a problem with my reverse in a 5 speed 105 hp Tdi. It jumps out of place when i try to move the car, makes a loud grinding noise and pops back in, I'm guessing the selectors are worn or maybe the teeth are too. My question is, how hard is it to replace the selectors (if it is the selectors that are worn of course), what is the cost of getting it done in the shop and most important does this sign mean I will have the same problems with the rest of the gear in nearby future?
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2007 XLS Crew Cab 2wd. 60K miles When going through the 35 to 60 mile per hour range there is a vibration that seems to come from the drive shaft. Let off the gas and it goes away. After 60 mph it seems to be gone. I am thinking Trans support, motor support? One of the postings on this sight made me wonder about the transmission. By the way, I just bought this truck used and love it. Can I run flex fuel in the 4.6L engine?
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2006 ford f150... Mine started out as a misfire problem which I first changed the plugs. I followed the Ford TSB and got all 8 plugs out with no problems. Still misfiring and setting a code for bank 1 catalytic converter inefficiency bank 1. By the way bank 1 is passenger side. After changing bank 2 because the guy at Advance auto said bank 1 was drivers side. Still setting misfire codes and for bank 1 cat. ineff.
So after installing new coil packs and 2 injectors, Still misfiring #3 and #1 and cat. ineff. bank 1. Decided to buy my own code reader, which is a must if you are going to try to work on these new vehicles. Decided to unplug o2 sensor to see where bank 1 really was. Thats when I found out bank 1 was indeed passengers side. Changed o2 sensors. Still misfiring. Decided to buy the true bank 1 cat converter.
Dropped old bank 1 cat and found all of the internal workings all broke up and clogging converter. Truck runs like new. I spent 178.00 for bank 1 converter at pep boys. After spending O approx. 600 in other parts that didnt fix it. I think the spark plugs not being changed until 115000 miles caused the converter to go bad. Buy a code reader and it makes it a whole lot easier to diagnose your problem yourself. and save a whole lot of money throwing new parts at it.
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