Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 4x4 Not Working - Bad Front Differential?
Feb 13, 2011
Working on a 2004 Ford F150 4.6L. No 4x4. Replaced both IWE front actuators. (Neither one would hold vacuum). Still no 4x4. I realize I have vacuum issues and may be excessive wear on gear teeth of the front wheel bearings. The issue that really bothers me is the front differential. Having placed the truck on jack stands and running in 4x4 should both front wheels be turning ? The right front wheel turns and the left front does not move. Is this normal or should I pull the front differential cover off ?
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My front differential is leaking. Are there any special Ford tools required to replace the seal? Or is it simply bolt (and fluid) removal, seal replacement, fill with new fluid. Any tips or heads-up on this?
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2006 F150, SuperCrew with 5.4
I just replaced the firewall actuator valve for the hubs, and went to try out the 4 wheel drive. The hubs engage and lock to the axle shaft, the transfer case engages and locks to the front driveline, but the front differential isn't doing anything. Is there an actuator for the front or did something break inside?
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Looking to change out my front differential cover tomorrow, cover is pitted, rusted, corroded, and leaking at the seals. While under there I want to inspect the vent for the axle and differential (and replace if it's clogged - which I believe is leading to the seal leaking). Looking for info about the vent tube location on the front axle? Thought I read somewhere it was on the cover itself, turns out that's a negative.
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2005 Subaru 2.5 Limited Outback. If I drive my Outback for over an hour, when I make sharp turns at a low speed in a parking lot my front end doesn't seem to turn right. As a I turn it seems like maybe the front differential is not working right, both wheels want to spin a the same rate. what could cause this?
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I have a 2006 XLT w/ the 5.4L engine. Manual transfer case, I'm wondering where to start looking for problems w/ the 4x4...the front wheels don't engage.
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So back in mid May while driving the inlaws back from the airport in our newly aquired 2004 Mercury Mountaineer 4.6 AWD with 100K on the clock, I started to hear a high pitched whine. Stopped at the rest area and found gear oil coating the underside of the car. It was coming from the differential vent. Long story short, the axle came off where it was supposed to be in the differential and cratered it. Got it repaired through the extended service plan I had gotten with the vehicle. Fast forward to today. About 70 miles from home again at highway speeds I hear the same whine and see smoke, pull over, same oil. Get towed back to the same dealership from the previous time and its sitting in their lot til they can look at it on Monday or Tuesday. Fortunately the dealership does warantee their work and parts so it should be covered, its just frustrating.
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I got a new to me truck. It's a 2004 F150 Lariat 4x4 with the 5.4L. It's got a whine that I believe is coming from the rear differential. I'm going to change the fluid. My axle code is 26 which I believe is 3.73 non-limited slip. My owners manual says to use 75w-90 but I've seen a lot of posts on here that say to use 75w-140. Which is right or better? Also, is my rear differential the 9.75"?
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I have a 2007 ford f150 FX2 5.4 with 3.55 limited slip rear end. It has 68,000 miles and would like to change the rear differential oil. I have read and I know the oil it requires is 75w-140 plus the friction modifier. I would like to use mobile one. But was reading and the mobile one sites states that is already has friction modifiers. Is that ok to use on my truck? Using mobile one and not adding the extra modifiers?
Also some other brands say they have friction modifiers as well. Should I use mobile one and add extra friction modifier or just go with what it has already?
Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube 75W-140 LS contains special friction modifiers designed for limited slip-type differentials. In most applications, the addition of special LS (limited slip) additives is not required. For axles requiring the highest level of limited-slip performance, OEM specific LS additives can be added to this fluid.
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I have a 2007 Ford F-150 SuperCrew Lariat (with Sunroof) that the Front Interior Dome Lights are not working in. I mention the Sunroof because there is a switch to operate the sunroof in the same panel as the front dome lights. The Sunroof switch works just fine though.
However, the back dome light does work. I would've thought these were on the same line but my thinking is probably wrong. So far I've pulled the front panel where the dome lights are located and checked the bulbs. The filaments are not broken at all and the bulbs seem to be good. I then went hunting for the Fuse box and looked through the user manual to see which fuse corresponds to those front lights. However, I've been unable to determine which fuse it is.
So I guess the questions I have are:
1.) Why the front dome lights would NOT be working and the rear dome lights are? Are these not on the same line?
2.) Which fuse corresponds to the front dome lights?
3.) What relay corresponds to the front dome lights?
4.) Do I need to disconnect the battery before messing with any of these fuses or relays?
Troubleshooting steps at this point?
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(2004 f150 S.Crew 4x4) I noticed that my 4 wheel drive is not working. The front hubs won't lock in. The transfer case will go into 4 low but the hubs still won't lock in.
Anyway, I have pulled vacuum on both actuators and one of them won't hold. It's obviously bad, but is that why I don't have 4x4? It seems to me like it is not...
When I pull a vacuum on the actuator that does hold, it disengages the hub from the driveshaft allowing free-wheeling. Correct me if I'm wrong, but when the truck is running in 2wd, vacuum must flow to the actuators preventing the hubs from engaging? The actuator on the bad side is locked 'in' so the driveshaft always turns.
According to my train of thought, since the actuator has failed in the 'locked in' position, I should still have 4x4- What am I missing?
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Alright so about a few weeks ago I started hearing what sounded like it was time for new brake pads. But the other day I turned the corner and my neighbor came up to me and said he heard my truck making a metal on metal type noise. So I said okay fml, took it to a local mechanic.
Called me today and said the brakes are fine but it's rear differential, he said they put the truck on the lift and used the stethoscope and heard a metal noise inside the rear differential and said that the fluid in there was very metallic.
I bought this truck about 7 months ago from the dealership. It has a total 90,000 miles on it. What does it look like this could cost me worst comes to worst?
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I have a 2006 fx4. And I am about it change the rear differential fluid. i want to know if i have a a limited slip differential.
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how hard is it to replace the U-joint at the differential side of the shaft on an 04 FX4? Any special tools needed? At low speed (5-10mph) sounds like someone tapping on the rear end with a ball peen hammer, I guess it is the u-joints.
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I am getting a little frustrated with a leak on my rear differential. The leak is on the front of differential rear-end just behind the four bolts you take off to remove the driveshaft. When you take the driveshaft out, there is a single bolt and the seal behind that is leaking. Here is my dilemma, I called my local ford dealership to find out what the torque rating on that bolt is so when I replace the seal I don't over-tighten. He told me there is no torque rating on it because I have to tighten, measure, tighten, measure the bolt. I was lost, I didn't have a clue what he was talking about.
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I seem to have oil leaking from my front differential. The oil seem to be leaking from where the axle comes out of the differential.
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We have an 01 Sport Trac as a backup vehicle and it has the 3 position rotary switch on the dash for 4wd.
The transfer case engages and disengages but the front wheels seem to stay engaged with the front differential.
There are no manual hubs and I really don't think it should ALWAYS be engaged like that.
What is the probable issue and ALSO can manual hubs be installed on this truck?
Someone mentioned vacuum engagement? but I didn't see any vacuum hoses near the spindles. Didn't see any wires either other than ABS...
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I am looking for 2002 explorer XLT front differential diagram.
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Thought I would try and fill up the front. Diff well not as easy as the rear diff. They make a special hose or some thing. To put in the bottle so u can get some Gear oil in ?
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I gotta a roaring noise coming from my right front while turning. Planning on replacing just the wheel bearings tomorrow & not the whole hub assembly(2008 2wd). Is there a thread that lays out the steps and other parts I may need? I've seen alot different stories on the net on how to do it. Everthing from I can press new bearings to I have to do 4x4 hub conversion. Seems to be some confusion.
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My front diff is busted, and I mean bad.. I can barely even run the truck 5mph, and it's very loud. The diff casing is even busted. I want to just disable it to drive in 2wd. What's the easiest way to do it? It won't disable using the push button control.
Can I just remove all the locking stuff in the front wheels, so there's nothing for the axles to grab on, and manually turn the solenoid at the transfer case to shut off the front wheel axle?
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