Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 4wd Drive Switched Into Neutral Suddenly When Braking Downhill
Mar 14, 2017
I'm a new owner to my first 4x4 vehicle. My vehicle is a 2007 f150 xlt. Today while I was driving into work I had my vehicle in 4wd high. As I was going down hill I let off the gas and started braking. When all of a sudden my 4wd drive switched into neutral. I am wondering what could cause this to happen and whether it's an issue or not? It is snowing which was my purpose for being in 4wd.
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it's a 2000 honda civic EX. I pulled into a parking spot and slowed down, then decided to speed back up and when I accelerated it was like the car was in neutral. No gear would drive. Turned off the engine and re started and it shifted and did fine then about a 1/4 mile down the road the same thing happened. It just switched into neutral. The transmission fluid is full and clean and the filter has been changed. There was no warning signs at all.
The only caveat I can think of is last week at 15 mph my front passenger wheel fell off after someone replaced a tire. I traveled less than 10 feet on the wheel. But didn't think the transmission would be low enough to hit the ground.
At first I thought transmission clutch but it would be doing it in one direction? Then I thought maybe a pump? Or could it be a sensor or the torque converter.
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I have a 07 f150 harley edition.. Here's my issue. When I decelerate going down hill. Feels like my rear end wobbles. It will do it if I decelerate and turn the overdrive off or if I put it in 2nd when decelerating and when I accelerate again it goes away..
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I have a 2008 Prius with about 95,000 miles. It is bloody cold here. About 4 degrees F when I got up. On the way to work, on the parkway, suddenly the car lost power entirely. Just started to slow down. No reaction when I pressed on the gas pedal. I didn't notice any warning lights. I flipped the gear shift to Drive, and the car accelerated again. About five minutes later, this repeated. For the rest of the trip it was fine, and there were no problems coming home. (Temperatures were still way below freezing in the afternoon when I left work though the car had been sitting in the sun. I don't know if this could be cold-related, but it's never happened before and it hasn't been this cold here for days on end before._
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2004 F150 FX4 5.4L. I drove from Vancouver to Edmonton and back this week and I started to get some issues. If I'm in overdrive at highway speeds, from about 90km/h to 120km/h give or take, which would be around 1600-2100rpm, and then I try to accelerate, sometimes on flats, rarely on downhills, but always on uphills, the truck will begin to jerk fore and aft. It feels like it's something through the driveline, either the driveshaft or the differential, but I really can't say for certain as I'm stuck in the driver's seat while this is happening.
If the truck downshifts or if I take it out of overdrive, i.e. getting the revs up high, the problem is no more. Other than the issue I'm having, it operates perfectly so this is very odd. I know that overdrive isn't a hill climbing gear, but normally an engine in the wrong gear will simply lug along until it's downshifted. The entire truck jerking shouldn't happen.
On my way to Edmonton, I noticed that this would cause one single, minor jerk. This is my way of describing it, but it was like the driveshaft had spun freely and then promptly re-engaged with the differential gear, causing a clunk. I doubt that's actually what happened, but I'm just trying to explain the sensation. It kind of feels like trailer jerking.
On the way back to Vancouver, it was a lot worse. Like I said, the whole truck would be jerking about once per second but there was one time that I found the sweet spot and it began jerking rapidly, twice per second. I threw it out of overdrive to stop this but the vibration caused the check engine light to flash a few times but it went away and didn't stay on.
What I might be up against? Been doing a little research. Seems as though this is common and it's supposedly the spark plugs, but those only have 50,000km on them.
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The car has about 53k miles. The problem has persisted since probably 20k miles. The whine is only after the trans warms up and is in drive or reverse, not in neutral. Whine is while the car is stationary or moving at low speed. The whine doesn't seem to change due to gear it is in. It does not change frequency with engine RPM. It does seem to diminish the more load the transmission is under.
Whine is probably not an accurate description, it sounds like a noisy pressure relief valve. Had Hyundai service look at it and all they said was all pressures in the transmission are normal. They could not find any cause.
It sounds like a bunch of small ball bearings running in a loop and can hear each one impact. Sharp raspy impact type sound.
You cannot hear it from the interior but it is quite pronounced while in the garage or if you hear the car coming down the driveway.
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I drive a 2005 Ford Explorer (automatic) with 84k miles on it. Recently when I was driving on cruise control at 35 mp/h down a hill and applied the breaks to make a turn, the engine completely shut off. The lights came on, the power steering went off, the engine had shut off. I pulled over, turned the key off, turned it back on and it started no problem. I drove it for 3 days without problems (and without using cruise control of course), then I took the car to a shop. They ran diagnostics on it, test drove it, but couldn't find anything wrong with the cruise control or the transmission. I don't think they tested this driving downhill as the shop is not in a hilly area. Tonight, I went down the same road again, 35 mp/h in cruise control, slowed down for the same turn, and the engine shut off again exactly the same way it did before. What this could be?
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I wonder what's the difference between Stealth (no arrow on display at all) and Neutral Gear? The reason I ask is, Neutral Gear is much easier to maintain than Stealth.
Also, when I break moderately hard, it seems like the CVT gear is put to low, so for every yard I travel, more rotation on charging motor. Since Toyota did a great job on transition between regeneration and brake pads, I can't tell when brake pads start to work. Any indications?
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is it good practice to shift to neutral, while driving downhill on automatic transmission? the owner manual does not recommend, would like to know why.it makes sense to save gas, while doing this. (i used to do it while driving manual)
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My fiancee has a 2005 base model and is out shopping today. She just called me and said that she is stuck in a parking lot.
She told me on the way off the highway today the "big and little" triangles came on, but the car drove fine. When she got back to her car to leave, the car would turn on presumably, but all the warning lights were on. She then said that the car would not go into drive and only into neutral.
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Yesterday was driving my 2008 Prius (75K) down a paved road from a ski-hill (no snow/rain, perfect weather and completely dry road). Not hard driving, 20-30 mph some curves, very smooth road with no potholes, etc. Battery turned all green, its fan initiated and I also rolled back window during this 75 degF day (not unusual to have battery fan turn on in this condition, it's occured plenty of time before). Wasn't braking hard either. Out of know where, I first noticed upon slightly accelerating that I had no acceleration, like the hybrid had disengaged from the ICE, and then check engine, (!), red triangle, VSC light!! At this point, couldn't tell if car was on or off, the wheels disappeared from the main display, although the ICE/electric motors continued to show although there was a red warning top left corner.
It did scare the hell out of me going downhill with curves wondering if I was really still in control of the car. I pulled over as soon as I could maybe 1/2 mile downhill. I then shut car off, waiting maybe 1 minute, turned back on. The VSC cleared I believe, but all other lights continued on. Next, I only knew to drive it to the Toyota dealership. It was odd, as the Prius was now in some sort of weird, pseudo on-state. It had virtually no acceleration, maybe 40 mph after 1 mile and that was it. Drove it maybe 8 miles like this thru town in this pseudo on-state. Pulled into dealership. They pulled codes and found P0A1D-HYBRID POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE INFO 1 AND P3000-BATTERY CONTROL SYSTEM. They stated vehicle was found with problem with hybrid control ECU. They cleared the codes and test drove with no issue repeated. That's it. If it comes back I'm told I will need to replace hybrid control ECU.
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I've had my 2006 Prius since Jan. Today it started giving me a warning when I put it into drive. The warning was the battery couldn't charge while it was in neutral. It told me to place it in park. I did. I repeatedly tried and even drove out of my parking but it continued to say this with the ! in the triangle appearing. I've never even put it in neutral before.
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Right now my husband and I are driving from San Luis Obispo Ca to LA and back in a day. We noticed right before the grape vine on the I5 that the engine was really working, even on flat ground. Looked at the battery and it was purple. We have been driving for about 2 hours averaging about 70mph on mostly flat land. The battery finally charged itself on the big downhill of the grapevine (I5) but we're noticing we're running right through it again unless we start to break more. So, it's not getting any recharge during driving, just breaking. Can it be the generator? What causes this?
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So my 4motion downshifts going downhill while braking...it's annoying as hell! My DSG used to do the same thing but being a faster tranny it was actually NOT annoying... Is there a way to reflash the tranny software? Maybe with an older code because my 06 didn't do this but my 08 does...
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I have noticed a couple times now on my Automatic S that the engine keeps revving an additional 1,000 - 2,000 rpms when I am braking going down a hill. Is this normal? It doesn't occur on flat roads or going uphill, but only downhill. It's almost as if it downshifts when I brake. Not sure if this is normal or not, but it just didn't feel right.
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I am having difficulty with my Prius, (just started) that it won't shift out of neutral to drive or reverse. I have read several posts, one says replace the shifter knob, but I did read one i thought that said the 12v battery might be the problem with low voltage. The battery is 5 years old.
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I have an '07 Prius Touring with about 95K miles that I have owned for about a month (after my previous '07 was totaled). My wife tried to drive it for the first time today, and the problem is that when my wife tries to start the engine, the dash lights come on and the color display comes on, but the car won't "shift" into Drive or Reverse (it will go into Neutral). A dash warning light also comes on that the owner's manual says means Take to the Toyota Dealer for Service. Then if she gets out of the car and then I get into the drivers seat, everything works fine.
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2009 Touring Dead at 55000... All lights on dash light up and won't shift to reverse or drive only neutral. Towed to dealer and they said it threw several codes and are replacing the tranny.
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I've been mostly content with my Prius Plug-in for nearly a year now. But, as a driver very consciously aware of what my car is doing, I have many complaints concerning the internal combustion engine igniting when not needed, or remaining on for far too long. I do my best to work around them, but I feel the need to enumerate my complaints and vent about them. Note I live in southern California where cold weather is extremely rare, and I consciously don't use the heater or AC.
ICE ignites when braking downhill on a full charge. I've heard users say this is necessary because if the battery is full, regenerative braking will overcharge the battery.
ICE ignites if I step on the accelerator ever so slightly too hard. I understand that Toyota claims it needs to use ICE to deliver the extra power to the wheels asked for by the driver, but I just don't believe that. The engine usually simply idles and does not power the wheels at all when this happens, meanwhile the wheels are still running on 100% EV power. I know this because I've become in tune to exactly when the ICE powers the wheels and when it's not. The easiest sign of ICE actually powering wheels is when the accelerator begins to vibrate and I hear the ICE rev up. The second sign is by watching the MPG meter. If you're cruising at something like 50 MPH, and the ICE is idling, you'll see it getting about 80-90 MPG. When it actually supplies useful power, it suddenly drops down to 50 or below.
ICE ignites if the car moves faster than 65 MPH. This seems totally arbitrary to me. For example, it does not matter if you're accelerating steep downhill in neutral, or on a level highway just very slowly accelerating past 65. You can watch the power meter the whole time, and even if it doesn't get anywhere near the (power) section to the far right, the ICE still ignites as soon as you hit 66. In those situations, why does it even think it needs any extra power? And to top it all off, all it really does is idle for at least a minute anyway.
The ICE runs only momentarily, but here's the kicker: If you immediately let go of the accelerator, decelerate to below 65 MPH, or even come to a full stop at a red light, the ICE still continues to run for at least a minute or two. Worse still, it idles for about a minute regardless of speed or power, then suddenly decides that it should power the wheels for a few seconds even if no variables have changed, and it does this for about 30 seconds more before finally deciding to suddenly pop back into pure EV mode. How you work around all of this? Stop at a red light, shut off the car, and restart it. As it powers on, it stays in EV mode, proving to you that it never needed to be sitting there idling in the first place.
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I have a 1995 Oldsmobile 98 sedan with engine braking problems. It has the 3800 engine (complete with a slight intake manifold leak, as per the GM custom) and low miles. I recently moved from the midwest to the west coast, where this battleship encountered real mountains for the first time on the road trip west. Driving into Yellowstone NP from Cody, Wyoming I encountered a particularly hilly stretch of US highway that had a steep grade and plenty of curves down the hill.
I took the car out of overdrive and put it down a gear to let the engine braking assist. Nothing happened. The car continued to speed up with no assistance from the engine, even in 2nd, which should have held me at around 45-50. To test this on the next big drop, I started at the top from a full stop, and in first gear. I should have been walking down the mountain, but instead the car kept speeding up to around 40 and 4000 rpms before I relented and shifted up.
Is this a transmission problem? Or would the lack of engine braking downhill but no transmission problems when tooling around town elsewhere indicate something else? Maybe a vacuum leak?
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Have a 2011 Toyota Sienna with about 50k. Ive been having this problem for over a year but was not very noticeable. But in the last several months, the shudder has increased and the car shakes a good deal when I brake downhill.
The problem does not happen on a flat surface or downhill.
I did some online search and some seem to point to warped brake rotors. Is that likely? Also more importantly, how dangerous is it to drive more in this condition? From where we live we need to negotiate steep downhill every day.
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