Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2WD Stuttering Sporadically When Driving
Jul 7, 2006
My wife and I have a 2004 F-150 5.4 L SCrew 2WD which is stuttering sporadically when we drive it. It will run fine and then suddenly when you increase pressure on the peddle, it will occasionally (one or twice per 30 min or more trip) hesitate. At first I was thinking it was a fuel problem, and now I am inclined to think it is a transmission problem. It causes jerking (feeling of loss of power) and then quickly goes away.
No codes show up in the computer and no lights come on in the dash. Miraculously when service drives it at the local dealer, they state that they don't find anything. We also feel the truck shifts hard since the last PCM update (the dealer states that it has the most recent PCM update). The condition has worsened and we are nearing our original MFW expiration at 36,000. We did purchase the prem extended warranty however. We recently talked the service manager into putting the in-flight computer in it, and I need to take it back today or tomorrow to have it removed.
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Have a problem with a stutter when I press the accelerator while going up hill. I even had this problem driving on a flat road but that was a 1 time thing and happens every time I go up hill. Had a coil replaced that came off of an '04 because one of mine went bad which caused it to shake whenever I came to a stop. Wondering if the coil has anything to do with it... 2007 5.4L ....
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I have a 2000 Lexus RX300 with 210,000 miles on it. We recently started to have some transmission issues. It sporadically drops into 1st gear while driving. We had the transmission fluid changed, and it did work for a short time, but it has recently started again. Is my transmission going to completely fail or is this something that is serviceable? We are trying to decide whether it's worth it to keep the car and fix it and drive it for another 100,000 miles or sell it. It looks great and drives great, otherwise.
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What is the cause of my 2007 Ford Taurus that sporadically shuts off while driving? This problem started to occur about a year ago when I was stopped at a light. Then it would start to shut off while driving around town. The problem now occurs when traveling 70 mph on a highway which is dangerous. I typically see the theft light, airbag light, etc. come on and the wheel locks up. IF I quickly turn off my radio and air or heat (not set on full blast) then the car typically returns to normal driving.
If I do not turn off these items quickly then the car completely dies and I have to restart the car - so far the car has always restarted. This problem is quite sporadic - can be morning, night, been driving for 10 minutes or 40 minutes. It can happen one time and then not again for many months or it can happen 5 times in one day. I have taken it to 3 auto-mechanics (this last one being the Ford dealer). They have checked the keys, key fobs, alternator, never throwing a computer code, etc. I have driven it to the mechanic as soon after it happens and no computer code thrown. This is getting quite dangerous and about ready to sell the car.
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So lately I have noticed this shuttering/stuttering when driving. It doesn't happen at any specific time its sort of random. I didn't know if its because of the extreme cold weather we have been having but its been happening too much. But I have also noticed a pretty gross oil smell coming from the car as well. What it could be?
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My Volvo is having some ac issues and I am trying to figure out what is happening. The compressor works sporadically while driving. When it is on it blows cold, but then all of a sudden it shuts off. I had a friend check the refrigerant levels he said they were fine. He said the high side pressure is at 350, which is high.
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My 2008 Chrysler Town & Country has, since it was 2 mos. old, had a "no-start" problem. This is not a stalling problem. It happens when the car is off and I try to turn it on. The problem is very sporadic (sometimes several times a day - I do lots of short drives - sometimes several times over the course of a few weeks, then no problems for months). When I turn the key in the ignition, all electrical components come on (dashboard lights, air, radio, etc.) but nothing happens with the engine (it does not make a sound). The dealer has replaced a computer component, the battery, the starter, the electronic keys but the problem always happens again (within a few days of it the "repair"). I usually have to turn the key 3-12 times (sometimes I take it out of the ignition, sometimes I pray!) and eventually the engine starts. Because the problem is sporadic, the dealer has not been able to replicate the problem (though they have, at times, had it for a week or more and even driven it as if it were their own, home at night, to work, to run errands). Although the car eventually starts, it is very problematic when I have to be somewhere and it takes 10 minutes (not to mention a lot of worrying) to get it started.
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I have an 03 20th ani gti golf... It has been stuttering when idling and driving... Almost sounds like a subaru... I have changed the plugs/coilpacks but still does the same thing... My check engine light comes on and blinks.. Got the codes ran and it came up... Cylinder 2 misfire and catalytic convertor threshold....
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Last winter, my car sporadically stopped while I was driving slowly or while I was standing still. I usually turned the engine off and restarted it right away without a problem. It happened a few times and then it stopped. This winter, it began again - frequently. I realize now that it only happens during the cold months.
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I have a 97 Jeep Cherokee with a 4.0 V6, fuel injected, 4 wheel drive with a 5 speed. It has developed a stuttering or a hesitation at times while driving. It's hard to describe, but feels like the engine is not getting fuel or air at short quick bursts, thus a stuttering feel.
Some things I've noticed: It happens mostly when the engine is cold, but can happen any time.It seems to be worst during rain or snow.At low throttle, it can cause the whole vehicle to shudder violently and at full throttle (gas pedal down for acceleration) it is very noticeable but doesn't seem to cause the vehicle to shudder as hard. I think I hear a metallic pop or clack when it happens, especially at high throttle. It doesn't seem to matter what gear I'm in.It doesn't matter whether I'm on a flat or a hill. It doesn't seem to matter what speed I'm going, but it is a little harder to notice cruising along at 65.
Maintenance History: The vehicle has had several things replaced in 2011: Alternator, crank position sensor, relay on the ASD, serpentine belt, spark plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor, battery, engine compartment fan.
The vehicle went into the shop when it started dying at stop lights or stop signs and starting hard. The diagnosis was the crank position sensor and that did indeed seem to fix that problem. Within a few days, however, the vehicle started running rough and would come close to stalling when idling at a stop. My mechanic sprayed a bunch of cleaner down into the air intake part of the engine (a part that reminded me of the butterfly valve on a small carburetor). The problem went away, but this stuttering problem started up about a day later.
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My 1996 Honda Accord V6 has a stuttering problem. It only happens (or is only noticeable) when driving at a constant speed. It is most noticeable when driving in the 45 - 55 mph range. It feels like the engine has millisecond breaks in power. And this does not happen all the time. Some days, it drives just fine with no problems. It idles fine. The problem is not noticeable, if there at all, during acceleration.
One other piece of information that might - or might not - be relevant is that the tachometer seems to be out of its mind. It bounces all over the place up and down. This also does not happen all the time, and it seems to me, though I'm not 100% certain, that the stuttering problem only happens when the tach is crazy..I have had no luck getting a mechanic to diagnose the problem. They claim the tach problem is totally unrelated.
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In the beginning of January I bought a 2004 F-450 6.0 with 186k miles (not sure if its been clocked back).
Since I bought the truck I have had only 2 issues that are odd. One is a hot no start that is very sporadic (its happened 5 or 6 times). I know it needs 500 psi min to crank and when that happens it gets to around 350psi. Because Im afraid of issues I did a oil change the day after I bought it did a road trip of 2500 miles (with no issues) and did a oil change again. All with motorcraft filters, lucas oil stabilizer and I use a little of diesel kleen or lucas injector cleaner every time I fuel up. I was told never go below half a tank so I follow that rule.
The second is a small oil leak from the passenger side. BUT it only happens when the truck sits for 3 or 4 days unused. During my road trip, not one drop. I used it on the weekend not one drop, but since its my 3rd vehicle I park it Sat or Sunday and by Wednesday Ill see the size of silver dollar, I cant seem to find it.
Also it has a egr delete but the heads have not been done, and I want to put a tuner. Would that be ok? I dont drive hard. As a example on my road trip I NEVER went past 70mph(with my wife saying I drive slow) and I averaged around 15mpg. I would like to get more mpg.
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I have a 2008 Accent. Yesterday the check engine light started to blink and the car started stuttering and the idle was rough. I've changed the air filter, which worked. But, it was recommended that I change the fuel filter. But, when I went to the parts store, they say that this model has a fuel strainer instead. What is that and where is it on my car? Is it easy to replace?
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I'm not sure where this should be posted, but my MFD showed a mileage reset to 0 today. I only reset at fill-ups so that I can do long division.
Anyway, while trying to figure this out, I saw on the Consumption screen that the AMPG also started bouncing around. Before I shut off the engine, it bounced between 39 and 42.
Since the last fill up, the pips have been decreasing quickly...4 in 71 miles. I know the pips are not a linear measure, but 4 in 71 miles seems pretty quick.
Where I should start looking?
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Car is a 2004 1.8T GLI. My A/C seems to be cycling on and off sporadically. Some days it will work great and other days it is non existent. For example, this morning I had the A/C blowing ice cold with everything running as it should including the fan. Well now that a couple hours have passed, my A/C is now dead and only blowing hot air in my face as usual. Now, I have had the refrigerant levels checked and refilled twice now by an A/C specialist. He assured that all mechanical aspects of the A/C system are fine and that I might have an electrical problem. With that said, I have gone through a list of possible causes. Here is what I have checked so far.
-All of my fuses including the three on top of the battery have been tested and came out fine.
-Refrigerant levels are within spec (checked for leaks by A/C tech and found nothing. Twice.)
-Both of my fans are working. The small fan engages with either rising temperature or when the A/C decides to work.
As of now it seems that I am not receiving constant power to the compressor as it will engage randomly throughout the day(s) if left on. I have no clue where to look next.
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I have a V40 with 122,000 miles. About 4 to 5 years ago it started to sporadically drop subtly the RPM. It does this no matter the weather, air on or off, etc. the dealer about 2 years ago changed the idle sensor. The problem still exists today. This does not affect the performance of the car. I bought the car new, the transmission was replaced about a year and a half after I bought the car.
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I have a rattle in my 2004 Lariat crew cab with sunroof. The sound seemed to come from the rear seat, but I finally tracked it down to to roof of the cab. The back dome light (and interior roof) has sagged some and I guess it's the dome light or wires are rattling when driving.
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I have a 2004 Ford F150 4.6L V8 4X4 Supercab. I developed a problem with my interior lights where they will come on randomly while I was driving. After many hours spent searching for an answer online, I found this thread:
[URL] ....
What I picked up from that thread that was useful was that if I tapped next to the dimmer/light switch panel my lights would go off.
Since all of the interior lights go through the instrument cluster I figured I would start there but it proved to be fruitless.
The next step I took was to look at the wiring diagram for the interior lights and try to figure it out there. They proved useful in that I was able to figure out that it wasn't an issue with a relay or fuse and led to me looking for the Green/Orange circuit, which I discovered I don't have but pointed me towards the Black/Blue circuit.
I thought I might have a wire loose inside the light switch so I started to remove it and take it apart to hopefully find something. To remove the light switch place a flathead screwdriver under the panel and pop it loose.
From there you can get a finger underneath and pull it out completely. Next you'll want to remove the wires by pressing on the clips pictured below
There are three screws you need to remove to get to the circuit boards underneath...
Removing the actual light switch was tricky because there are two tabs pictured below and you have to finagle the switch out...
Once you have that removed you'll be able to see two clips at the very bottom of the switch enclosure. This step was very hard and I had to get support. The two clips at the bottom have to be pushed and you have to pull the circuit board at the same time. I chose to have my assistant push from the bottom while I pushed the pins out of the way.
Once you have the circuit board out you can remove the dimmer by pushing on these four tabs
Once you have this removed you will see a circuit board with some gel on it. My circuit board had an excessive amount that was causing the electric current to jump and by-pass the Dome Defeat. After removing some of the gel I reassembled and put back in. I did it earlier today and only time will tell if I truly did fix it but based off the amount of gel and my inability to find another cause I am hopeful that this was a fix. The dimmer appeared to work better immediately afterwards.
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When I'm driving the interior lights will come on all by themselves. This also happens when I park, day or night. Actually had to get a jump when I left the truck for 5 days at the airport.
Quick fix...mild tap to either the dimmer/light switch panel or just to the right of the panel. Goes out for a while and then back.
Extended Fixes:
- Cleaned contacts on old dimmer and light switch...no good
- Replaced dimmer/light switch panel...no good
- Cleaned and sprayed WD-40 on all latches...nope
- Looking for "loose" wiring...nope
This is a 2005 Lariat w/autolamps etc. Problem existed before I met a deer at 60 MPH and had a nice new set of fenders and front grill installed. I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, but cannot resolve the problem. The door ajar light stays off, so this leads me to believe it is not a door switch.
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So for the last few months, I've had my check engine light on my 111,000 mile 2005 Prius going off sporadically. Everyone tells me it's the gas cap, but I've been putting off replacing it because I want to make sure I get something compatible.
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More questions on OBD codes but I'm trying to understand my problem. The check engine light came on for a week and then off and then on etc.. I thought it was the gas cap or wet/loose wire on the 1st O2 sensor. Well, I went to advanced auto and they said P0141 I think (bank 1, sensor 2 after the cat convertor) and the right rear ABX wire/reader. He told me to clean the ABS sensor (it was filthy with dirt and I can see how it can't read) and I did the other rear and the front left one (it was different on the front than the back and was clean so I didn't do the right front). So, now the light is still on probably due to the O2 sensor. I intend to get a mechanic change out the sensor (denso at adv auto for 70 bucks plus labor) and reset the computer to see if the ABS sensor code comes again or it's fixed.
Why did the check engine light come on and off? I thought once on, it only goes off if it's a gas cap issue. Next, does the computer reset itself or will a mechanic have to reset it? Can the ABS switch be just dirty or do they die and it needs replacement? Why didn't the ABS light on the dash come on if the error code was for the ABS wire which will mess up the ABS system?
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