2007 F-150 4x4 reg cab
Trying to get my trailer plug to work. Don't have a owners manual. Looked in fuse box, fuses 104 , 114 , 107 and 118 are missing?
Need to know what they are? Also look for fuse numbers that have anything to do with trailer plug.
My truck trailer connection has no power to the + pin, called the Trailer Tow Battery Charge. I traced back to the fuses and relays and discovered the relay missing. Unbelievably Ford is having a hard time with this relay. They don't seem to be sure which one it is. My owner's manual says it is a Full ISO relay. But Ford doesn't like that description.
What can I use there? Is there any after market relay available that would fit. Napa said they don't have anything listed, and O'Reilly and Autozone look at me with a stupid expression. I also need one for the starter relay. Mine was replaced with a anti theft device that has a remote control. I want that removed so I need the realy.
All the relays appear to be the same. I plugged in the blower motor relay in the trailer tow charge position and got power to the + pin. But I need the blower motor. The Ford guy said that it might be the right one, but he couldn't be certain and if I plug it in and it doesn't work it's my loss.
This is for the 2006 F-150, 4.6l truck.
Have 146k on an 05 SuperCrew, 4.6 V8, it's like my right arm! Don't know what I'd do without it. The other night, at interstate speed, something "popped" and the check engine light came on and it started missing. Left it at the mechanic's overnight, he swapped coil packs with no change, pulled the #6 plug and found it wet with antifreeze. No water in oil, no overheating, no other signs of head or gasket failure.......I'm tempted to put some stop-leak in it and change the plug.......
View 6 RepliesI have a 07 with the 5.4 engine and it has started to jerk or miss sometimes when I'm pulling my trailer. I'm thinking about changing the plugs, but the dealership is telling me they will break off in the head.
View 11 RepliesMy 07 xlt 4x2 4.6 (49700 miles) started missing a couple of weeks ago. Did it for 2 days, the Check Engine light came on, then it quit missing and ran normal. CE light was still on, so I had the code read and reset light. Got two codes: ignition missfire #8, and rich fuel. I assume the rich fuel was caused by raw gas in the exhaust.
Anyway, the truck ran fine for two or three days then started missing again. Checked #8 by taking the wiring connector off #8 COP - rough idle unchanged. Pulled COP off #8 and #7 and swapped. Rough idle unchanged and confirmed miss was still #8 by pulling COP connector. With #8 connected, disconnected #7 (with COP from 8) idle was significantly worse.
Replaced #8 plug. Same miss. What to check next?
2004 ford f 350 super duty, 6.0 Liters international diesel, 4door, 4x4, long bed, dual rear wheels. Over 200,000 mileage. I have no power to the trucks brake lights and no power to the tow plugs trailer brake lights, which is the center left and the center right tow plug blade style contacts, while using a 12 volt test light! All fuses are showing good and I replaced the brake switch at the brake pedal, and I also replaced the towing plug with the short wire and connector at rear of truck which is under the rear bumper and the frame mounted tow hitch bar
- Are there any relays that control the truck brake lights and the trailer brake lights ?
- If yes where are the brake relays exactly?
- Have I missed or not done something else to correct the problem?
I have just bought the Passat 2002 TDI AVF engine. When I open the fuse box cover and look at the scheme, I can conclude that some fuses are missing. Probably I don't understand the symbols' meanings. For example the fuse 41 is missing, but my ABS works. But I have the ESP so though that is the same device probably the fuse 42 is for ABS too. Then, the fuse 9 is missing, and my car has the mirror heat function. How can I test do they work? Does the little symbol on the heat switch become yellow when they work? Fuse 10 is missing if I understood the symbol was for CD. My car has Charger in the back and it works.
The last thing is fuse 1. What is this fuse for? Is it for headlight washer, and if is, what is the fuse 3 for? I disregarded the possibility that some cars may have the washing water heater and it is may be for that. My car doesn't have either headlights washer or water heater. The fuse 18 is for long beam and signal lamp, it is obvious.
I have a 2004 f150 fx4. My running lights on my trailer will not come on. Brake lights work, turn signals work, back up lights work. Had my boat mechanic check the trailer and that showed that the lights work fine. So I started checking fuses on the truck. Fuses all looked good. Then I went into the Auxiliary Relay Box in the engine compartment on the left fender. In the spot marked Trailer Tow Park Lamps (R201), theres no relay. R202 is for the Fog lamps, same relay. I pulled the Fog Lamp relay out and went to put in R201 for Trailer lamps, but there's no contacts in the R201 slots. The relay goes in with ease and just falls out. No contacts. Whats going on?
View 2 RepliesI recently purchased a 2006, 4x4, low mileage and when towing a trailer the truck develops vibration right at 52 mph. Dealer has not found the problem.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2007 f-150 fx4 supercab with the 5.4, it has about 37,500 miles on it. Yesterday I hooked up my trailer with no more than 800lbs of lawn mowers and as soon as I was on my way I heard a terrible rattling noise coming from the truck or the trailer. I unhooked the trailer and drove up and down the driveway and heard no noise, hooked the trailer back up and right away the rattle came back. At this point I hooked up the trailer to my dad's truck hoping it was the trailer and I drove it around the neighborhood hoping to hear the noise. No noise. So I hooked back up to my truck to drive home and the noise came right back and was even worse.
The noise was a rattling noise which I would say sounded like bb's rattling around in something, which had/has my thinking catalytic converter but no check engine light or anything has popped up. Also the noise doesn't happen unless the truck is hooked up to my little trailer with weight that I consider insignificant. So my question is could it be the catalytic converter and the the light load causes it and it will eventually occur all the time, or could it be something else that I'm not considering. I'm going to try to get it into a local mechanic but with it being the end of the month he's probably swamped with inspections. I don't want to drive it until I know what it is because I don't want to do damage to the truck.
Over the past year, I have had an issue with the front end shaking on my F150.
I have a 5 x 10 trailer. Weight capacity is roughly 2200 pounds. I hook up my trailer empty and head down the road. When I hit about 55 mph and above, the front end starts bouncing/shaking/vibrating.
Now I put a load on the trailer. Get going down the road. Hit those same speeds - no shaking/bouncing/vibrating. I have had a mechanic ride with me to check it out. First place to start, he told me, jack it up and see if anything is loose. I have not done that yet.
He has the same opinion as I do. This makes no sense. No load, shakes. Load, no shakes. You would think it would be opposite.
I took it to the dealer and they blamed the trailer. I told them that I have pulled two different trailers and it did it with both. Then he said that the trailer was not heavy enough to weigh down the springs. So now I not suppose to tow an empty trailer? Also my father in law has pulled the trailer with his Z71 with no shake and the other belongs to a neighbor with a 98 F150 with no shake. The vibration only starts above 45mph. Any clue as to what could be causing this?
View 14 RepliesAfter returning from about a 5 hr roadtrip, I backed my snowmobile trailer up my steep driveway in 4wd and the truck did not want to move after that. The truck is an '05 SCREW 4X4 5.4L with about 110,000 miles on it. Trailer is probably around 1,000 lbs with the snowmobile on it.
The driveway is steep and short. That combined with the 90 degree turn to get in and some uneven terrain and part the path onto slippery frozen grass makes for a bit of a rodeo trip backwards up the driveway with a trailer.
Anyway, after getting the trailer up into it's place, I unhooked it, switched back to 2wd, disengaged the parking brake, and put it into drive. The truck didn't roll which was weird as it's now in drive pointed down hill. With about 1/4 - 1/3 throttle, it crept forward. Again, this is down hill. I got out walked around the truck (make sure I didn't forget to unhook anything etc) and tried again. Same thing.
Once I made it to the fairly level street, the truck would still only move, barely, with about 1/4 - 1/3 throttle. Now it was like some of the wheels were free but at least one had to break traction with the pavement to allow the truck to move forward. So with constant pressure on the accelerator it would chirp one or more of the wheels a bit at a time as it crept forward. Acted like it was in some sort of imaginary tug of war. After about 40' of driving it worked itself out. I've driven about 10 miles since and seems just fine.
I'm concerned because I plan to do this frequently with this trailer and in the summer frequently with a boat weighing about 3,500 lbs although shouldn't need 4wd in the summer.
My trailers lights aren't working at all- so frustrated right now!! I've checked all the fuses and those are good, I've got no power back to the 7 pin connector...
View 9 RepliesSo I bought two new HID bulbs for my 2007 prius. Mostly it had been the left one that turned off after a while. So i put a new bulb in and it goes out after about 10 seconds. So i put the other new bulb in and it goes out after 10 seconds too.
View 4 RepliesI just bought an electric tongue jack for my utility trailer. Rather than mount a battery on the trailer, I bought a jack that has a 7 way plug, so you just plug into the truck in order to power up the jack. However! My '13 Platinum F150 appears to have a very smart 7 way plug. If I plug in the trailer, everything works fine on the trailer.
If I unplug the trailer and use my tester to check the power inside the 7 way plug on the truck, there is nothing. So when I plug in the jack, which only has 2 tabs on it's 7 way male - positions 4 and 1 (positive and negative since they are red and black) it does not turn on. I wired direct to my battery from the jack 7 way plug and jack works fine.
So I'm guessing that the 7 way plug is not powered up until it senses a trailer is plugged in somehow? Is there a way to override this? Also the 4 flat on the truck was dead when I put the tester to it as well. Maybe same thing? If not, I'll have to hard wire the jack into the trailer wiring harness as a work around I suppose.
I have a Ford F150 5.4L lariat 2 wheel drive with 78,000 miles on it. I just had new platinum plugs put in and a new air filter along with the routine LOF service. I had the plugs changed because I was experiencing some missing out at 50 MPH. The check engine light was not on. The mechanic said that one plug was definitely bad.
I have had the truck back for a week now and today while driving it I had the same missing out at 50MPH. The check engine light is not on. I had the cruise control on when it happened so now I am wondering if it could be related to the cruise control? What else It could be?
Hooked up to a bumper hitch trailer tonight with my 13 F350 and didn't have any lights but the brakes worked. Tested the bumper hitch trailer connector and there was no power on any terminals, with the tester still connected to the same ground I checked the trailer connection in my bed for my gooseneck trailers and everything was working. Just to check the trailer I hooked up my wife's 2015 F150 and all the lights worked. Can't figure out why my gooseneck connection works but not my bumper connector, also looks like my license plate lights are not working either.
View 14 RepliesMy park lamp circuit is dead. I have tested with a multi-meter and there IS power at the fuse. However, no power at the plug. I have pulled the bumper and found the plug for both the rear taillights (the park lamp circuit WORKS in the taillights) and the trailer wires. Confirmed it is dead there as well.
Both bundles go into the frame rail at the fuel tank, but I not sure which is which where it comes out at the firewall. A web search did not reveal a diagram and the Ford repair CD I have does not list Excursion diagrams.
The door on my trailer plug is broken. I can't seem to find just the door. Need to get one without having to buy the whole plug assembly?
View 6 RepliesSo the other weekend I hooked up to my buddys landscaping trailer, everything was fine until I plugged in the harness, No Lights...no big deal cuz it wasn't much of a drive, but I gotta haul a boat tomorrow a little ways and Id like to be legal.
I need cleaning my trailer plugs. What is the best way to clean the terminals on the small 4 prong? The big plug is fine, just a little dirt inside the cover, but I am still going to clean the contacts and put di-electric grease on them.