I just got an XLT with basic power door mirrors, I'd like to swap to power mirrors with the blinkers. The million dollar question is, does the truck already have the correct wiring harness for a "plug-and-play" or is the wiring not there for the blinkers?
View 3 RepliesI have checked the fuses, Checked the relays, Checked for pinched wires and checked for a loose connection at the fuse box, Both power mirrors and the overhead console lights do not work, Power windows work fine, Manual seats .
View 1 RepliesI am looking to swap 2007 vin 5 to 2008 vin V 5.4. Just wondering what would need to be changer? Would the ECM need to be replaced? I believe the vin V is flex fuel.
View 3 RepliesI have 2010 f350 and everything works while key is turned on. When you crank the truck I lose power to windows, radio, mirrors, blinkers and instrument panel. When I drive the truck and give it gas everything works. Let off the gas and I lose everything. Sometimes after about 20 minutes of hey driving it will stay on. Also when first starting the truck the gear selector won't let you out it in gear. After about 30 seconds it will go
View 1 RepliesI'm replacing tow mirrors on my 2004 F250 with 2008 mirrors. Both are factory Ford mirrors. Need wiring diagram since connectors and wires are different. They both have power mirrors, turn signals, heated mirrors, but are not power retract or fold.
View 1 RepliesWhat Relay switch controls these.
View 3 RepliesWas wondering if it was possible to add factory mirrors with the blinkers on them to my 2014 xl? My mirrors don't have them and I'd like to have them. If so, I could just buy a set and plug them into a harness in the door?
View 12 RepliesWill mirrors from a 2010 FX4 fit on a 2008 60th anniversary?
View 10 RepliesBought some power tow mirrows, aftermarket, any special on installing?
2011 F150 Echoboost, 4 x 4
I currently have a S&B Intake on my 2006 f150, 5.4. I am selling my pickup and getting an 08 with the 5.4 and am in the fortunate situation to be able to have both vehicles with me currently. Question, would i be able to swap the intakes? Place the stock intake form the 08 on the 06 and the S&B fit the 08? I know the pickups are nearly identical, but just want a little clarification.
View 2 RepliesI have a new to me 2008 F250 XLT. Neither side on the power mirrors is working. The manual shows fuse number twelve on the passenger side fuse block is the one that controls this circuit. The fuse is good (continuity wise). What I need to know is what color is the wire that feeds power to the switch block on the driver's side door panel. Pulled it out of the door panel and wiring was intact and corrosion free. I need to find out if there is power there or is it an issue between the fuse block and the switch.
View 2 RepliesI found a instrument gauge cluster out of a 2005 XLT that I would like to put into my 2005 XL. It has the tach that I miss. The mileage is less. Will I have any problems switching them - i.e.,: lights not working, etc? Will the onboard computer correct the mileage?
View 4 RepliesWill an engine from a 2010 f250 5.4 work in my 2005 f150 5.4? f
View 7 RepliesI have a 2004 f250 I just purchased a complete 2008 dash with steering column, wheel everything. I also installed the 08 door panels. I would love to keep the newer column and wheel. I'm not worried about the wiring. Just need to know the wiring colors or numbers for each truck to match?
View 2 RepliesHad my friends shop replace my passenger side exhaust manifold on my 2004 FX4. Two studs at the front broke flush and one other broke but was sticking out of the head. To get room they did the trick of unbolting the trans mount and the passenger side engine mount and moved the engine over. All is back together but started throwing the 53,132, 2195 and 2196 codes, engine seamed to run fine though. Before bringing it back in I decided to check for any simple things, vacuum leaks or connectors that might have been knocked loose. At first I thought this was a good candidate for a vacuum leak but it turned out to be a vent for the front hubs.
My next thought was that maybe the pass side upstream oxygen sensor got knocked during the work and was now shorting out. It is very tight on that passenger side! Truck has 102,000 miles so they were at the end of their lives. I decided to just replace all 4 with OEM units. I used one of the oxygen/mapp gas torches from the hardware store and a 7/8 in wrench. The drivers side was easy and I did not have to remove the drive-shaft like some write-ups discussed.
Although doing that would give plenty of room. Pass side downstream is fairly easy, upstream was a bit tougher. I took out the inner fender skirt and loosened the trans dipstick tube. That gave just enough room for my large hands to reach in and turn the connector so the sensor side of the plug faced out. I used a pick and fashioned a hook out of a coat hanger to pull the connector apart. That ended up being the hardest part. Putting a good amount of heat into the sensor bung quickly made all the difference in getting them out.
Here is what the upstream pass side sensor looked like. Could not see it from below or from the wheel well.
The codes are all gone now (were coming back after one drive before) so I think the sensor was the issue.
08 F-350 Lariat. Folded mirrors in twice today. Second time they would not come back out. After four hours the fold function has not returned. As I read Owner's Manual, if it's a fuse it should take out power to driver's seat . . . correct? All other mirror functions including telescope seem to work normally. So if I've identified the fuse correctly what else could it be? Fold relay? Switch? Where is the fold relay located and how can one test it? What pins on the switch are the fold pins? I just looked at power distribution box schematic. Power fold mirror relay fuse is there. Apparently the only function it has. Better go check it out.
View 5 Replies tried to look into the wiring below the fuse box. The fuse tested perfect.
I've gone as far as to -removed- the fuse box to inspect wires wrapped together behind it, and nothing.
Most threads talk about orange wires with a green stripe meeting in a corroded splice. I can only find one orange wire with a green stripe, no splice found on it yet. Other splices (like on white wires with blue stripe)look very good, no trace of corrosion at all!
I know fuse #3 powers the mirrors, but it is impossible to visually trace which wires it is connected to, even with the fuse box in my hands... I guess tomorrow I will probe all the contacts for connection to fuse #3...?
When I am driving and i go to stomp on the gas my truck feels like there is no power and makes this funny clicking noise and goes no where.
NOTE : Literally just replaced plugs and coils with success. 105k miles, Oil change 2 weeks ago
2007 F150 lariat super crew 4x4, 5.4 v8 w/ 3 valve
What a year 2014 has been. I had a 2005 F250 6.0 that was stolen in March and totaled when found days later. My insurance gave me enough to pay off the loan and render me the obstacle of replacing it. I got my F250 pretty cheap so replacing it for the insurance pay out was non-existence. I ended buying a 2007 F150 EC 4X4 w/ the 5.4 and having 97,000 miles on it. Just as luck would have it, I had the F150 for about a week before the cam phasers went out. Luckily the warranty covered it enough to put in a new LKQ reman engine.
I got the truck back about 2 weeks ago and put 1,000 miles on it in a very gracious form. I have noticed since then that despite letting it warm up for 20 minutes, I could put the throttle on the floor and the outcome was very poor. It was almost as if I was attempting to pull a house down. I couldn't even get the tires to spin at all, not even on wet pavement. Now I know this is not my old F250 6.0 turbo diesel, but really, I expected more from a new reman engine! They used all components from the old engine except for new spark plugs and a fluid change. Why is this "new" reman engine so weak?
I just got the spark plugs changed in my Ford F-150 the other day for a misfire problem. Misfire is gone now. But, as I was testing the truck to see how it performed after the spark plug change, I noticed that as it was raising speed with my foot to the mat, the engine felt as if I was slightly letting off the accelerator and then slowly pushing the pedal back to the floor. It loses power as if you're getting ready to slow down for something and then slowly the power comes back and it does it off and on throughout a WOT run from lets say 40-75 MPH.
2007 Ford F-150 SuperCab, Lariat, 4X2, 5.4L 3V.
07 f150 screw 5.4 104+ miles, loss of power and ticking noise (sounds like no oil)on passengers side, no engine light, no codes, ford dealer changed coil packs and plugs, inspected valve gear on passengers side and nothing seemed out of spec, no broken springs, followers, lifters, manifolds on both sides have been replaced very recently.
The ticking noise began about a week after an oil change, truck runs fine but no power/sluggish. exhaust is magnaflow side exit and seems to be louder inside the cab than usual or could be just me.
Truck had a miss that i was trying to find prior to oil change and ticking noise. it ran well for a week with the tick before (and miss) the loss of power which started after a 30 min drive under load up hill. it almost felt and sounded as if the muffler was dragging on the road for about 100 feet, ran fine for two miles until it was shutdown. restarted fine but flat when you get into it.
Clogged cat/cats; internal damage to muffler, oil issue even tho the gauge reads fine.