i have an 07 ford f 150 5,4 liter. at speeds between 45 and 55 it has like a sputtering and jerking loss of power. I had a computer hooked up to it and it said fuel pump replaced it but it is still doing it, what this might be.
View 5 RepliesI just got the spark plugs changed in my Ford F-150 the other day for a misfire problem. Misfire is gone now. But, as I was testing the truck to see how it performed after the spark plug change, I noticed that as it was raising speed with my foot to the mat, the engine felt as if I was slightly letting off the accelerator and then slowly pushing the pedal back to the floor. It loses power as if you're getting ready to slow down for something and then slowly the power comes back and it does it off and on throughout a WOT run from lets say 40-75 MPH.
2007 Ford F-150 SuperCab, Lariat, 4X2, 5.4L 3V.
07 f150 screw 5.4 104+ miles, loss of power and ticking noise (sounds like no oil)on passengers side, no engine light, no codes, ford dealer changed coil packs and plugs, inspected valve gear on passengers side and nothing seemed out of spec, no broken springs, followers, lifters, manifolds on both sides have been replaced very recently.
The ticking noise began about a week after an oil change, truck runs fine but no power/sluggish. exhaust is magnaflow side exit and seems to be louder inside the cab than usual or could be just me.
Truck had a miss that i was trying to find prior to oil change and ticking noise. it ran well for a week with the tick before (and miss) the loss of power which started after a 30 min drive under load up hill. it almost felt and sounded as if the muffler was dragging on the road for about 100 feet, ran fine for two miles until it was shutdown. restarted fine but flat when you get into it.
Clogged cat/cats; internal damage to muffler, oil issue even tho the gauge reads fine.
I have a 07 with the 5.4 engine and it has started to jerk or miss sometimes when I'm pulling my trailer. I'm thinking about changing the plugs, but the dealership is telling me they will break off in the head.
View 11 RepliesI have had a problem where truck would start jerking and sputtering in a certain town at low speeds. Today it happened in a new place. Barely got it to start back up. Was running rough after the puff of black smoke. Its stranded at a gas station. Recently replaced my sending unit. Was running good. Clean gas tank. Fuel lines tight. Where should I begin? I have an ICP sensor in the glove box. Truck wouldn't start.
View 8 RepliesThe ole 5.4l hit a snag today. I was on my way to fill her up and she started sputtering and damn near died! i filled her up and it was like nothing ever happened. Took her to AutoZone and the diagnosis was a Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor.
I have a connection with Bumper-to-Bumper to get the part for cheap but I'm not sure if i want to dive into either moving the bed or dropping the tank. I'd prefer to move the bed.
I have had my 2004 since it was new and recently I have had a power loss problem from 0-40 mph. I have taken it to 3 shops and they have tried everything to figure out why I have this problem, I was told that the coils needed to be replaced and that did nothing, I have changed the fuel filter external to the tank, replaced the catalytic converters because I was told they were plugged up, the 02 sensor was replaced and all of this has not worked so I took it to the Ford dealer and they could not find the problem either. The problem worsens with higher temperatures outside... I love my truck but I am getting real tired of chasing my tail.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2006 Saab 97x. While the car is not very common, the GM 5.3L V8 in it, is. It runs perfectly fine under normal driving conditions but for the past several months it has been running like a Slaab instead of a Saab. It has been backfiring, sputtering and has had loss of power issues but only during hard acceleration.When my check engine light came on at 50k, the dealership changed all 8 iridium plugs and when it happened again at 75k, only one was replaced. Aren't these supposed to be 100k plugs? One of the exhaust manifolds has been replaced due to a leak and the other one has a leak now. Fortunately, all of the previous repairs have been covered by my warranty. Unfortunately, my warranty has run out and the other manifold is no longer covered and seemingly neither is this problem. Most recently, my new mechanic used some fuel injector cleaner something or other to no avail. I tow a 5000# camper and can't have these issues when summer comes. Is it the plugs, manifold, engine, something else?
View 1 RepliesI have an 2004 treg V10. I put in diesel yesterday morning(10/13/2010). I went to work, everything was fine. On my way home I started feeling a slight hesitation and sputtering in the motor. It's something that I noticed but didn't give much thought. 10 minutes into the drive and the sputtering became more noticeable. To the point where I would floor the pedal and the treg wouldn't go anywhere, it felt like all the power got drained from the motor. I came to a stop, and listened the engine, no noticeable change in engine noise. Everything seemed fine, but the truck was sputtering every time I would press the gas pedal. I parked the truck for the night and forgot about it.
Now this morning. Driving around in some local streets I def felt like something was off with the truck, it felt like it had a V6 not a V10. took it on the highway and opened her up, car took way too long to get up to speed and once it reached 90 MPH it didn't want to go any faster, it just stayed there. I took an exit off the highway and stopped at a light and the car sputtered and hesitated and eventually stalled at the light. I tried re-starting the truck and it was just stay in the crank position. The battery light came on. I tried starting it again and it would just remain in the crank position. It eventually turned over and started after cranking it for about 5 or 6 times. But the car is still sputtering a bit.
Vehicle details : PASSAT 2.0 TDI 170 BHP DSG - 2007 ... 160KM
Problem:-
>>RPM doesn't climb as it should and esp in the run up to 3 gear and the DSG up shifts too quickly 4th and 5th
>>Loss of power. Pressing the gas pedal during all this leads to lots of black smoke and jerking but eventually the car picks up rpm and speed. Am I stuck in limp-home mode here?
>> No CEL light (yet)
The problem becomes very prominent when the engine warms up fully. Its drivable before that. Driving it in Sports mode is the only saving grace. Note that the car it is nothing like how it should be in sports mode, but feels better. I can hear the turbo whistle only when the engine is cold.
Initially, the Engine mounts were thought to be the culprit (for jerking and then ECU reducing power) and then later the EGR value unit (jerking/pinking and power loss).
Work done so far :
1. Original VW Timing Belk Kit (incl water pump) - September 2012
2. Engine Mounts changed - - September 2012
3. Has been plugged into VAG Diagnostic software and an intermittent error was detected for EGR.So, EGR valve control unit was changed - late December 2012
4. Engine Oil (5W-30, fully Synth) and filter changed three time in space of last 10K KMs after I bought the car in September 2012. This is something I wanted to get done anyway to flush the engine
5. Used injector cleaning additives couple of times -December 2012
6. ECU (error-code) reset procedure, just a couple of days ago. This actually seemed to remove some of the jerking and loss of power, but it appears to be coming back now.
7. Transmission reset - yesterday . Did this anyway although the DSG seems to be fine, no problems with the gear shifts
I bought a 2000 jetta gls vr6 5-speed. Only had the car about 4 weeks, already I am in, ball joints, struts, brakes, core leaks and my half shaft fell off at the transmission. Now, driveabilty issue.
Severe loss of power, sputtering bad. when i shift, the car revs a bit. installed new O2 sensor due to a rich code and a out of range code. Now the EPC light is on with an implausible brake switch signal. Replaced switch still comes back on. Still running like poop. Changed the plugs also about 1k back. I just ordered a MAF.
Ii had drove my car about 20 miles and after i had got inside and turned it on to drive it again CEL started flashing and car was sputtering lost power and felt like it didn't want to move so I had taken it to a VW specialist and he diagnosed it and told me its my coil pack and its got a bit water inside it and I would need to replace it and he said he would charge me $300 to replace ...
So I figured if its just the coil pack I could most likely do it myself and could this be from the coil pack? and why would there be water in my spark plug? Should I replace all coil or just the one that's bad.
My 2006 F150 King Ranch 90K 5.4 lags both torque and power in addition to only 11-12 MPG
In the city it does not bother me to much but when on the highway trying its very annoying. I used to have 2005 F-150 before so I know the difference. When I accelerate its ok but lags some serious power especially at high RPM. but without any hesitation. When I try to tow my trailer or go uphill it has no torque. I still haven't tried a dyno reading
Note: The engine runs smooth, no misfires or shows no codes. The only codes I got before was for the evaporation system but disappeared after I replaced the Fuel Pump Driver Module
Now I already replaced the: Spark plugs, mass airflow sensor, cats, air filter, fuel filter + fuel pump driver module, bought another tuner. I even took it to the dealership without any findings
Now I am beginning to think if the engine timing could be slightly wrong. I just can't figure out what it is if it throws no codes and runs perfectly smooth. It's just like it's not getting enough air or fuel but without any hesitation or misfire.
i have a 2005 expedition with the 5.4 and 100k miles. Rescently it began to missfire badly and lost almost all power to the point where it nearly dies. I have seveal codes that are baffeling me. Bank 1 is rich bank 2 is lean(this may be the other way around, p0300(multiple cyl missfire) and then 4 individual cyl missfire codes. I changed all of the spark plugs with factory motocraft ones from ford as the old ones were shot. Seems to miss just as badly as before and is no where near driveable. What would cause one bank to be rich and one bank lean? I ohmed all of the coils when I had them out and they all are very close to each other with no odd ball ohm readings so I believe they are all ok. Any sugestions as to where to check next?
View 3 Repliesmy f150 running right so i can enjoy it like everyone else does. I have a 2005 Ford f150 with a 5.4 auto.
It has a rough idle(shakes the truck), very little power, and poor gas mileage. Randomly It will throw a code for misfire on 1 and/or 3 on start up only. It does seem to perform better within the first few of starting but dies right off after that. In fact i got stuck in the snow the other day and it could barely break the tires loose to try and get it out (almost put in 4low cause i didn't want to hurt the trans). I have replaced:
Cats
Fuel pump
Plugs (motorcraft)
Random Coils
Did the timing chains and phasers
MAF
All new injectors
Intake gasket
Was at my mechanics and had a scanner on it and at idle the 1-4 cylinders are all show a negative cylinder contribution. But when you rev it up they all go to 0 across the board. Was kind of thinking about the Variable Timing solenoid.
2005 F150, 5.4 motor. Truck would loose power and no throttle response. Shutting off and restarting, ran fine. No codes showing. Cleaned throttle body and plate, reassembled. Key left on for 20 minutes. Tried to start vehicle. Making a clicking sound, dash lights flashing on and off when hear clicking sound when trying to start vehicle. when key turned to on position, dash lights go off except check engine light. When checked, no codes shown.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 F-150XLT with the Triton 5.4L. The other day while driving on side roads (Paved, not back roads) I noticed my CEL on and it was blinking. There was a very rough idle as well as a big loss of power. When I pressed the gas pedal it was sluggish to say the least. I have yet to get a computer on it, since I had to order one. There is also a light gas smell, only smells near the rear of the truck. From what I am guessing, I think it is either a spark plur or a coil over pack, Truck has about 56K on it.
View 1 RepliesI have had the check engine light on for a while now with the truck shuttering and bucking along with loss of power. Feels like there is something holding back the power. Just a couple days ago I was driving on the freeway and all of a sudden it felt like I was in neutral, tried to accelerate but the engine revved but wouldn't go anywhere, I clicked the overdrive on and it went into gear and I was able to drive home. Now every time I drive it, it goes a block or two in drive then again feels like neutral, put in overdrive and it goes into gear. I just put in new ignition coils.
View 9 RepliesHaving 3 new codes coming up. P0306-misfire on cylinder 6, p0158, p2272. Use my truck as a daily driver for work. Driving along before 80km/h is not to bad but can still feel a little loss of power. If i step down on gas the truck has no power and sounds like maybe cat converter is plugged. If truck is pushed to limit she will make it to her 4000 rpm and will change her gears. So i'm just glad its not tranny.
View 3 RepliesOk,..I've got a late model '04 5.4 150, (some parts matched an '05). About 4 mos ago I noticed a loss of upper end power, no cel, but the temp gauge only went up halfway and stayed there. eventually got a code saying temp sending unit (under manifold) was bad. I replaced the sending unit, gauge started working, no cel, but still some power loss.
After a while, cel again says rt bank faulty knock sensor, pull manifold, replace both, plus changed all 4 oxygen sensors. Last few months no cel, but still some loss of power, local trusted mechanic, thinks it could be a clogged cat / cats,..I was pretty sure it wasn't, sure enough, no back pressure. I'm at a loss, I replaced the plugs at 95,000 has 125,000 now, idles and starts great.
It feels like an old distributor car with a sticky shaft that doesn't want to advance, once in a while it feels almost normal, now a lot of people might not even feel it, it will still go 90, but won't lay rubber for 30ft like it used to, might chirp but definitely something not right,..is there any way to confirm throttle body opening all the way? I don't think it would be wise to run it with air box off and by pass mass air sensor right?
I have a 2008 FX2 5.4L F150. Recently it began to lose power on a friend driving it out of town. He got a check engine light then it just progressively became unable to produce power. It ran but he got down to 10 mph before he could get to a firestone. I got it to a local Ford dealer and they say i need a new engine. They gave me codes for cam sensor and timing and #5 and #6 misfire. (344, 345)
No oil in radiator, no water in oil. The crazy thing is it runs like the day i bought it in Park. But once in gear it begins to cough and then eventually shudders and dies. I haven't changed plugs ever. I know... At about 75 miles it began to idle rough at times and in reverse. But once I revved up it went away.
I replaced both cam sensors but no luck. Today i put it on a tow truck to get a second opinion from a local engine shop. I actually backed it down my driveway, and pulled up to the tow truck with no issues. weird...