I have an 07 King Ranch. I need to remove the rubber step off the rear bumper to paint it. Due to a typical Ford paint job it is rusting already. Can I just pull up on it ? If so should I wait for a warm day to prevent breaking the clips?
View 3 RepliesDo you need to take off the bumper?
View 2 RepliesRemove rear bumper on IS? Wanting to install a rear diffuser myself but don't know where to start in removing the bumper.
View 5 RepliesHow to remove the rear bumper, I have to drill some holes to install some back up sensors. I rather not but I don't know if anything is behind there.
View 1 RepliesMy rear bumper reflector in 2008 Lexus RX350 broke (red plastic part below the tail light). I see replacement part in ebay for around $50. Is it easy to replace? Do we have to remove the bumper?
View 1 Replies98 Windstar 251K
I recently replaced wheel bearing on Front driver side, the noise was present before replacement. When I step on the brakes I hear a squeaking sound like a rubber bushing squeaking, also it changes as the wheels turn. I have also cleaned the brake rotor but have not had it turned for being warped, could this be the piston seal in the caliper or pins.
I just installed an AFE stage 2 on my 04 f150. I was driving down the freeway and I decided to step on it and it made a loud hum sound and it had a vibration I could feel through the pedal. It was so loud and aggressive I pulled off the road to see if something came apart. Everything looked ok and all my bolts and such are tight. Is this normal?
View 13 RepliesI have a Legend Ranch Hand Part# FBF991BLR front bumper. I am debating removing this as I don't really need it for my driving and the extra 450 lbs and hanging out there in the wind can't be good for the suspension and economy. Any thoughts on this? What all come off to install one of these things that I would need to replace with stock?
View 14 RepliesThe rubber door trim (attached to the roof side) keeps coming off 3 of my doors when it gets icy. Is there something I can use to glue it to the metal ?
View 7 Replieshow would I go about lowering my truck in the rear a few inches cheaply? There isnt much out there that I can find.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2007 ford f150 FX2 5.4 with 3.55 limited slip rear end. It has 68,000 miles and would like to change the rear differential oil. I have read and I know the oil it requires is 75w-140 plus the friction modifier. I would like to use mobile one. But was reading and the mobile one sites states that is already has friction modifiers. Is that ok to use on my truck? Using mobile one and not adding the extra modifiers?
Also some other brands say they have friction modifiers as well. Should I use mobile one and add extra friction modifier or just go with what it has already?
Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube 75W-140 LS contains special friction modifiers designed for limited slip-type differentials. In most applications, the addition of special LS (limited slip) additives is not required. For axles requiring the highest level of limited-slip performance, OEM specific LS additives can be added to this fluid.
i need to know if i can remove the light bulb for the flat tire light, it has gotten colder here in Phoenix, AZ and i dont need the damn bulb on. can i remove the bulb and call it good?.
View 6 RepliesI have 2007 Camry CE, 4 cyl, 102,500 miles. The rubber boots on both front and rear struts can be easily lifted with a screw driver to reveal the shiny shaft. Strut seems be pass the 'fast brake' test (no bounciness). There is oily residue on the strut body. Is that normal? If replacement is needed, should I go with Monroe or other brand. I want the original Camry ride.
Brake pads seem to have 3/16"-1/4" thickness left. All equipment is original.
I need to remove the bumper to replace the reflectors for some lead breaking lights, so I'll also need to find the rear break lights cables to jump this leds.
View 14 RepliesI'm in the process of buying a used 2008 Mini Cooper S with 44000 miles in good conditions but I wanted to get an opinion regarding a rear bumper crack. Please take a look at the attached photo and tell me what you think, not sure how serious it is or how much it will cost me to fix so I can negotiate the price.
View 7 RepliesOn my 07' I bought it home mid AUG. It has been getting much worse to a point there is a rear driveline vibration at all speeds above 40 and up to 70. I used to change intensity whether you are on or off the gas, and would almost vanish if in neutral. However now it is all the time.
I cannot feel any play on the u-joints, the yoke has a little play in the xfer case but is is normal like on most other trucks I have owned, and the pinion flange is nice and tight. Could this be **tight** ujoints or the driveshaft itself? It looks rusty, but there are no dents on it.
I have a 07 f150 harley edition.. Here's my issue. When I decelerate going down hill. Feels like my rear end wobbles. It will do it if I decelerate and turn the overdrive off or if I put it in 2nd when decelerating and when I accelerate again it goes away..
View 3 Replies2004 New Body F150 5.4L
Removed all cops, plugs, intake manifold and driver side head to repair bad valve. Removed Left side cat pipes as well. Had to disconnect most of upper engine harness and had to remove cpm and battery.
Repaired all mechanical issues and reconnected all electrical connectors and now when I turn the key to start the red security light on dash is still blinking steadily and I get no crank no start situation and it blows #34 PCM fuse which is injector/fuel fuse as soon as hit start.
Here are some things I have done trying to trouble shoot.
Battery shows 13.65 V
Unplugged FPDM back on rear frame rail and disconnected far left harness (looking from front) from PCM (should be engine harness), both the smaller plug that plugs into another harness and the main plug to the PCM.
Now when I turn on the key the security light goes out, the dash display says engine fail safe mode and the motor will turn over when I turn the key. This is still with the #34 fuse blown.
If I plug the engine harness back into the PCM, same no click no start.
If I leave engine harness unplugged from PCM and plug FPDM back in and turn key now it goes back to no crank no start and the security light blinks rapidly.
Only way I can get anything to turn over is far left harness disconnected, both plugs and the fdpm disconnected. Display says Engine Fail Safe Mode, and the security light goes out when I turn the key to start. I'm at a standstill as to what to do. The truck started fine prior to me taking it down for service.
I just noticed today that my backup camera now shows part of the rear bumper and perhaps some of the chrome. There's also a strange, small, somewhat circular thing in the upper right corner of the screen. With my Matador Red exterior, I'm sure I would have noticed it before today on the backup camera.
View 8 RepliesMy mother-in-law moved my car and put the emergency brake on (2010 Santa Fe) when she got out. When I got into drive home, I drove about 10miles with it engaged (for some reason the light didn't indicate it was on). When I got home I noticed a burnt rubber smell from the left rear tire. (no smoke though)
Our driveaway is an incline. After engaging/disengaging the e-brake, the light started coming back on again. If I put the car in neutral and release the regular brakes, it will quickly roll back. If I put the e-brake on in netural and disengage the regular brake, it still holds fine on the hill.
I know the damage can vary, but any test or check I can do to determine the amount of damage?
I was recently in a fender bender where I was rear ended. My rear bumper cover became detached on the left side and the spoiler underneath it (left side and center parts) became detached. I lost several pieces of hardware in the crash. I was able to clip the bumper cover back in on the left side, and aside from that, I don't believe any bolts, screws, etc. are missing for the bumper cover. However, the spoiler seems to be missing about half of its hardware.
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