Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2007 - No Power - Clicking Noise?
Sep 24, 2016
When I am driving and i go to stomp on the gas my truck feels like there is no power and makes this funny clicking noise and goes no where.
NOTE : Literally just replaced plugs and coils with success. 105k miles, Oil change 2 weeks ago
2007 F150 lariat super crew 4x4, 5.4 v8 w/ 3 valve
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07 f150 screw 5.4 104+ miles, loss of power and ticking noise (sounds like no oil)on passengers side, no engine light, no codes, ford dealer changed coil packs and plugs, inspected valve gear on passengers side and nothing seemed out of spec, no broken springs, followers, lifters, manifolds on both sides have been replaced very recently.
The ticking noise began about a week after an oil change, truck runs fine but no power/sluggish. exhaust is magnaflow side exit and seems to be louder inside the cab than usual or could be just me.
Truck had a miss that i was trying to find prior to oil change and ticking noise. it ran well for a week with the tick before (and miss) the loss of power which started after a 30 min drive under load up hill. it almost felt and sounded as if the muffler was dragging on the road for about 100 feet, ran fine for two miles until it was shutdown. restarted fine but flat when you get into it.
Clogged cat/cats; internal damage to muffler, oil issue even tho the gauge reads fine.
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Original owner 2004 f150 4wd 4.6 ... Switching in and out of 4wd electronic no hubs. There is a light clicking noise when I shift out of 4wd , then when I go back to 4wd the noise stops......it seems like its not going out all the way. Is there something to lube ??I would hate to think something is grinding to hell....it sounds like a card in spokes a light purring. Bad weather heading this way.
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Everything about my '08 2.7l Santa Fe seems/drives fine, but it always has a light clicking noise when idling and maybe even at higher revs. Is a little bit of this clicking normal or does the valve clearance need to be inspected and/or adjusted?
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I have some FAINT clicking noise at the rear of the 08 LS460 and I'm thinking it's rear bearing going out..but not sure...what exactly does bearing failure sounds like? I hear this SOFT clicking noise from (more likely) the right rear. The noise is very faint and I have to roll down the window to actually hear it.
If I move through the neighborhood at about 15-20 mph, I hear this clicking faint clicking sounds..and if I speed up a little, the clicking noise increases (in frequency, not loudness). When I go faster like on freeway or normal road, I can't hear it anymore. Probably clicking too fast or not as loud at that speed. With windows up, I can't hear it at all.
Is this has to do with rear bearing going out on me or possibly something else? Any recommendation where I can start looking at? Is it brake pads? The car is 35K miles but since it's 08, unfortunately it's out of basic warranty (time). Is this covered under powertrain?
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2005 F150 Lariat package with 63,000 miles. Ok... thought I had a cat crawl up in thew engine to stay warm...but alas no cat found. Got off of work and headed home, clicking/rattling noise from the front passenger side dash, then a whirring noise followed shortly there after by a dull thud (hence the cat scenario). Happened twice on the way home (~15miles) ...
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I have a 2008 LS460. I have a clicking noise coming from the brake pedal area. It happens in the morning when the brakes are cold. I had the same problem when the car was new, and Lexus put in a new actuator. It was ok for about 6 months, and started clicking again. Maybe 3 or 4 soft clicks when I push lightly on the brake pedal. Every time I take it in to Lexus, they say it has the new actuator, and the noise is so soft that they act like they can't hear it. The car is so quiet otherwise, that to me the clicking is very annoying. I have called Lexus corporate, to no avail. Sounds to me that they have a problem they don't want to admit.
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I've got a 2008 santa fe limited 3.3 awd with about 170000 km on it. Lately when I brake I've been hearing a clicking noise coming from what sounds like the driver side front wheel area.
Had it in to my mechanic who checked the brakes and said that pads/calipers/rotors were all fine. They replaced the passenger side front bearing on the lower control arm a few weeks ago and said there is no play or noise coming from any other suspension components.
Where to look next? My mechanic isn't sure what it is so I was going to take it to the dealer and see if they can fix it. Also had new tires installed about a month ago
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The other night I was going up the mountain and while going it started making a clicking noise..probably from no oil..We had been told from the dealership there was a small leak but nothing to worry about at the moment.We tested it and it wasn't leaking visibly but I guess with it getting cold out the hole got bigger and we didn't notice so all the oil leaked out as we were powering the lil car through the mountains..Needless to say on the cruise down it started shaking i saw some sparks and I think the rod went through my engine block and we broke down. It's completely dead. The car has right around 200,000 miles on it and has always been very well taken care of.I just traded my dad the car about 7 months ago for my 4-runner cause of gas prices..I moved across the country and of course have had NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS since day one.
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My 2007 mini cooper with low milage (40,000) began making clacking noises, then backfiring, then loosing power. Had intake valves cleaned with walnut shells a few months ago at great expense and just started to click and clack again? Put in fuel injection cleaner and has stopped for now.
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I have a 2008 RX350. When i shut off the engine and pull the key out i hear a constant clicking sound. I dont really know where its coming from but i can kind of pin point it maybe to the windows or door i'm not too sure. I also notice the interior light flickering to the same pattern as the clicking noise.
Second problem - in the middle of the night the alarm goes off! Its the alarm without the horn noise. For some reason i cant switch it off with the fob key. No matter what i do i cant switch it off. So it goes on for about 20 seconds and stops. I just leave the car unlocked after that and it doesnt come back. The alarm noise is coming from the boot....
Third problem Now the navigation screen flickers. Blacks out then the lexus emblem appears then switches back on itself.
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I have a 2008 Prius with the platinum 7 yr/100K warranty. The brakes are making a creaking/clicking noise when pressed. It only happens when the car is coming to a stop. If you start the car and sit there and press the brake pedal it doesn’t make the noise. Only when the car is in motion and coming to a stop. I took it to the dealer and they said the brake lever/shaft needs to be lubricated. It is only heard on the inside of the vehicle and doesn’t seem to affect the brake performance.
They said it would not be covered under warranty since it was a lubricating job and not a mechanical problem. They said they would have to take apart the whole dash to get to that part to lubricate it. It would be covered only if the part has failed or broken. They called Toyota to approve the fix, but it was denied. It is just annoying to hear the creaking noise every time I come to a stop. I am supposed to pick up the car tomorrow since they are replacing some other items. I asked for a parts diagram of what part needs to be lubricated to see if I can get to it. I have to take part of the dash apart to install my LockPick and XM radio.
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I just got done with 2007 5.4 Triton with cam phaser noise. I replaced phaser, timing chains ,tensioner, oil pump, and it still made noise at idle when it was hot so a change the oil to 0w40 and my noise went away. 5w20 starts to brake down at temp of 180 but 0w40 works up to 212 ford will tell you all you need is 25psi of oil pressure what I have seen is you need at least 40psi of oil pressure so if you have noise try 0w40 mobil1....
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I have a question about my 2007 F150 4x4 with the 5.4L. It has a ticking noise sound coming from somewhere around the motor, but it's not there till the motor has warmed up. It almost sounds like a exhaust leak, but I'm not sure. What it might be, or what to look for?
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First, details about my truck. 2007 F150 SuperCrew, 2wd, 5.4, 203,xxx miles on it, leveled with Hell Bent Steel 2.5" kit last year, has been aligned professionally since then, tires are good and balanced.
The issue I have is a vibration, kind of the same feeling when driving on a road surface that has had the top level of asphalt removed before it's resurfaced. It's mostly noticable at highway speeds. Its not a violent type vibration, but you can feel it. There is also a sound, similar to tires with a deep off road type tread.
The sound and vibration more noticeable when making lane changes or when wheel turned towards left, at highway speeds, not as much to the right. I've checked front wheel bearings, they are good, zero play, no loose suspension parts, u-joints are good, no leaks anywhere.
Since it makes the noise and vibration a bit more when moving wheel, could it be a power steering pump? The pump is the original.
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tried to look into the wiring below the fuse box. The fuse tested perfect.
I've gone as far as to -removed- the fuse box to inspect wires wrapped together behind it, and nothing.
Most threads talk about orange wires with a green stripe meeting in a corroded splice. I can only find one orange wire with a green stripe, no splice found on it yet. Other splices (like on white wires with blue stripe)look very good, no trace of corrosion at all!
I know fuse #3 powers the mirrors, but it is impossible to visually trace which wires it is connected to, even with the fuse box in my hands... I guess tomorrow I will probe all the contacts for connection to fuse #3...?
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What a year 2014 has been. I had a 2005 F250 6.0 that was stolen in March and totaled when found days later. My insurance gave me enough to pay off the loan and render me the obstacle of replacing it. I got my F250 pretty cheap so replacing it for the insurance pay out was non-existence. I ended buying a 2007 F150 EC 4X4 w/ the 5.4 and having 97,000 miles on it. Just as luck would have it, I had the F150 for about a week before the cam phasers went out. Luckily the warranty covered it enough to put in a new LKQ reman engine.
I got the truck back about 2 weeks ago and put 1,000 miles on it in a very gracious form. I have noticed since then that despite letting it warm up for 20 minutes, I could put the throttle on the floor and the outcome was very poor. It was almost as if I was attempting to pull a house down. I couldn't even get the tires to spin at all, not even on wet pavement. Now I know this is not my old F250 6.0 turbo diesel, but really, I expected more from a new reman engine! They used all components from the old engine except for new spark plugs and a fluid change. Why is this "new" reman engine so weak?
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I just got the spark plugs changed in my Ford F-150 the other day for a misfire problem. Misfire is gone now. But, as I was testing the truck to see how it performed after the spark plug change, I noticed that as it was raising speed with my foot to the mat, the engine felt as if I was slightly letting off the accelerator and then slowly pushing the pedal back to the floor. It loses power as if you're getting ready to slow down for something and then slowly the power comes back and it does it off and on throughout a WOT run from lets say 40-75 MPH.
2007 Ford F-150 SuperCab, Lariat, 4X2, 5.4L 3V.
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I just got an XLT with basic power door mirrors, I'd like to swap to power mirrors with the blinkers. The million dollar question is, does the truck already have the correct wiring harness for a "plug-and-play" or is the wiring not there for the blinkers?
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i have an 07 ford f 150 5,4 liter. at speeds between 45 and 55 it has like a sputtering and jerking loss of power. I had a computer hooked up to it and it said fuel pump replaced it but it is still doing it, what this might be.
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My 07 SCREW 5.4L 4x4 has 77,000 miles and has a high pitch whining noise on front right side of engine. Sounds worse in the cold,increases with RPMs.
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