Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2007 - No Heat After Idling For 3 To 5 Minutes
Mar 3, 2011
2007 f150 5.4 supercrew, average temp for the last 2 weeks was -27. I plug the truck in all night it starts good and idles down fast engine is warm. no heat after idling for 3-5 min and then try to drive it takes another 5 min for the temp gauge to hit full temp 192. then my windows fog over even the dash and there is minimal heat coming out takes another 10-15 min to clear the windows. what the "F". fulid levels up, winter front on, block heater works, not using or smelling antifreeze, brush off every last speck of snow and I still have to pull over on the highway and wait......should have kept my 95 5.8l.
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5.4 V8... A/C works for 30min. then stops blowing cold air. Turn system off for 15min. and it will blow cold air again for another 15min. then stops again. Passenger floor area gets cold and can hear fan blowing but no air coming out of vents.
In winter now and stops blowing hot air after 30-40min of driving. Turn system off for 15min. and will blow hot again. Had new A/C compressor and a/c clutch installed back in summer.???
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The heat in my 07 KRanch is kaput. The passenger side works. Where to start looking and what to look for? Hope I don't have to take door panel off !
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I have a 2007 F-150. Here is the story....
Last summer the truck was idling rough and seemed to be stumbling a bit. Took it to the dealership and had it diagnosed. Had a mis-fire code on cylinders 1 and 3. I was told to do the spark plugs and clean the MAF. After replacing all plugs and cleaning the MAF the truck seemed to run better but it didnt last long before it started doing the same thing. My Edge Evolution started showing misfire codes in cylinders 1 and 3 again and the truck is stumbling like crazy. Here is what i have done:
1. Swapped the plugs from cyl. 1 and 3 with cyl. 5 and 7 and the problem followed.
2. I replaced the bad plugs with new ones and i no longer get a code for those cylinders but the truck is still acting the same.
Now I am getting two codes saying the system is running rich on bank 1 and 2 and a misfire code in cylinder 4. I cleaned the K&N filter and replaced the MAF but it is still the same. The truck stumbles horribly under a load and has NO power.
History:
2007 F-150 5.4L Lariat
75K miles +/-
K&N Filter
Edge Evolution (has been kept in stock mode)
new spark plugs last summer
new MAF (this week)
New Fuel filter (two summers ago)
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I have a 2008 Ford Focus. The heat in my car stays hot while I am driving but when I stop at a light or slow down the heat goes very cool.
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I have a 2007 F150 XLT, Supercab 6.5' bed, 4x4 5.4 Automatic with 67000 miles on it. Its not a Flex Fuel
Over the past couple of weeks it would get go through random rough idling spell or stall going down the road. If it was sitting it would idle clear down to 200 RPM's and just sound like an old 'chitty-chitty-bang-bang' car, not a modern marvel of Ford engineering!
I noticed it particularly does it this on an incline. Initially I fixed it by just coasting to where it was flat. I normally keep it above half a tank so i dont think its a fuel pump not getting fed. So I replaced the fuel filter yesterday hoping it was full or clogged, no changed.
This morning it would start at all, I removed the negative terminal on the battery, rolled to the level, tried it 30 times. Nothing. I checked all of my connectors under the hood and the 2 below the cab under the plastic cover. Everything was connected. I disconnected the fuel pressure sensor and it fired right up and runs smoother than since I've owned it.
It hasn't had any CEL lights, until I disconnected that sensor. Should I drop the tank and clean it? Is there any special gasket kits or connectors I should be aware of? Should I just replace that sensor? Is it connected with a chain of sensors I should check first?
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2007 Montana SV6 3.9. I have lots of heat when vehicle is reving 1500 -2000rpm. when idling at 700 little or no heat. recent flush, thermostat, and serpentine belt. I'm thinking, if it was the water pump not circulating enough water the car should be over heating. heat guage remains on the half mark.
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What is that little motor shown in the still image (in focus at 22 seconds in the video) and why is it ticking? I noticed for the first time ever that it coincidentally wasn't ticking when I first tried shooting this video. After idling for a few minutes, it came on and started ticking away. Its much more noticeable when the engine idle is lower than in the video, and its more noticeable in person. The noise I am referring to is more pronounced later in the video at around 44 seconds when I go completely out of focus because I am putting the mic right next to it.
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If I start it on a cold morning and leave it idling for 20 minutes it will finish warming up within a mile or two. But if I just take off driving right after I start the engine, it takes close to 10 minutes to finally start warming the cab up. Is this normal for these trucks or is it possible the thermostat needs to be changed?
I found this service bulletin, which matches a symptom my truck has. Is it possible the rolling fan at cold idle could be keeping the engine from warming up as quickly?
05-4-3 COOLING FAN CLUTCH NOISE - VEHICLES BUILT PRIOR TO 10/1/2004 - 5.4L AND 4.6L ENGINES
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How come with the A/C on I can direct it to different vents but with the heat on it only comes out at the windshield ?? Whats up with that.
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I thought blend door only adjusted temperature. Mine is manual? System no ECM control. Need defrost....
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5.4 sound like a diesel when idling?
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My truck is idling terribly and knocks while doing so, little info is
The truck has 170k miles, I just bought it about two months ago and it was running perfect, drove it to the beach two or three times (4 hour drive) no problems whatsoever. Two weeks ago I noticed it start rocking a bit at idle ONLY when warm, check engine light came on so I ran the code and it said the Cam shaft positioning sensor was bad so I replaced both of those, then the next code I got was for the vct solenoids, replaced both of those and the problem is still persisting. It is odd to me in the fact that when its cold, it runs flawlessly, no problem accelerating/idling/maintaining speed/smoke nothing at all.
As soon as it gets warm it will still do everything flawlessly EXCEPT idle. the idle rpm is around 300-400 and it rocks and knocks terribly.. If i am stopped and I apply some throttle in park or nuetral, just enough to get the rpm up to around 800-900, its perfectly fine. no more rocking no more knocking but as soon as i let my foot off the gas it goes right back to feeling like its going to fly out from underneath the hood.
So my question is why is this? What on earth is going on here? and how do I fix it? And why is there not a manual idle control. Ford place said there was likely damage to the head and recommended a full engine replacement.
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I have an 06 F-150, there is lots of heat but it only blows on defrost. Is this the blend door motor or is it something else?
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I have a 1998 f150 4.6 that has a problem with the heating system. It's blowing out a little warm, but "far" from what it should be. ( on a scale from 1-10, I'd rate it about a 3) I am puzzled because I flushed the radiator, changed the thermostat, and there a no signs of heater core leaks inside,hose leaks on firewall, or radiator/water smell present. I don't know if this has anything to do with it, but I did notice the top radiator hose was hot, but not the bottom. I don't know what else to look for.
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Either running A/C or heat.. air only blows on the '2' and '4' setting.. so I have middle of the road or WOT when it comes to the amount of air. On the '1' setting nothing comes out and '3' setting is the exact same at the '2' setting. What is going on with this.
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So I recently bought a 2006 f150 XLT with a 5.4 and of course the previous owner failed to tell me that it has an annoying beeping problem. It chimes 25 times total about every 20 minutes of the truck running, I've read the owners manual and found that it could possibly have to do with the passenger air bag.
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The past couple of months my ABS light has been coming on randomly. It comes on after several minutes (or hours sometimes) of driving then stays on. I wrote it off as a bad sensor but now, even when under light braking, if I hit even a small bump in the road, I can feel the ABS activating in the pedal. Seems like more than a sensor to me. I know I have a front wheel bearing going out but how would that be related? 2007 F150 5.4 2wd
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My 2008 Santa Fe has a problem where the heater & A/C work fine, the fan is blowing a lot of air but it will not switch between the defrost, heat & floor locations. Right now about 90% of the air is blowing out on the floor(freezing my feet with A/C) while about 5% comes out of the dash vents and 5% out of the windshield vents. No amount of adjusting will change these. I've changed the cabin air filter which didn't work and have ruled out the fan as it sounds great and pushing a lot of air out at the lower vent.
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Everything about my '08 2.7l Santa Fe seems/drives fine, but it always has a light clicking noise when idling and maybe even at higher revs. Is a little bit of this clicking normal or does the valve clearance need to be inspected and/or adjusted?
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I have a 2005 5.4 F-150. First off it came to me on a rollback because the owner tried to replace his plugs after he noticed it missing and of course broke one off. So after I extracted the plug from #8 cylinder and installed a new plug I cranked the truck and it was idling very rough and had a terrible miss around 1200rpm. I pulled the codes and got several misfire codes and ignition coil faults on #5,6 and 7 cylinder. Popped in 3 known good coils in these 3 cylinders with no difference.
On Mode 6 on my diagnostic software you could watch the misfire count steadily increase on #7 and every now and then there would be a single misfire on #5 and 6. It also had several codes for O2 sensors biased, stuck rich on that bank. Well since it had a brand new plug and coil, I popped an injector in #7 and havent had a single misfire on it since and it also started idling alot better and all the O2 codes went away. The problem I am having now is #5, 6 and now 8 will randomly misfire, sometimes build up a steady count on one of them, sometimes just skip around between them.
The truck has brand new plugs in all 8 and new coils on this bank also. The truck has 115,000 on it and does have some cam phaser noise on the bank causing the problem, but its not too terribly bad, I have heard alot worse. My problem is something on that bank only as the passenger side bank is fine. I am wanting to say cam phaser now since this is the side with the noise. I have changed them before but have just experienced the noise, never one running like this because of it. Possibly jumped time a little?
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