Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2007 - Loss Of Power And Ticking Noise
Jan 8, 2013
07 f150 screw 5.4 104+ miles, loss of power and ticking noise (sounds like no oil)on passengers side, no engine light, no codes, ford dealer changed coil packs and plugs, inspected valve gear on passengers side and nothing seemed out of spec, no broken springs, followers, lifters, manifolds on both sides have been replaced very recently.
The ticking noise began about a week after an oil change, truck runs fine but no power/sluggish. exhaust is magnaflow side exit and seems to be louder inside the cab than usual or could be just me.
Truck had a miss that i was trying to find prior to oil change and ticking noise. it ran well for a week with the tick before (and miss) the loss of power which started after a 30 min drive under load up hill. it almost felt and sounded as if the muffler was dragging on the road for about 100 feet, ran fine for two miles until it was shutdown. restarted fine but flat when you get into it.
Clogged cat/cats; internal damage to muffler, oil issue even tho the gauge reads fine.
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I have a question about my 2007 F150 4x4 with the 5.4L. It has a ticking noise sound coming from somewhere around the motor, but it's not there till the motor has warmed up. It almost sounds like a exhaust leak, but I'm not sure. What it might be, or what to look for?
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I just got the spark plugs changed in my Ford F-150 the other day for a misfire problem. Misfire is gone now. But, as I was testing the truck to see how it performed after the spark plug change, I noticed that as it was raising speed with my foot to the mat, the engine felt as if I was slightly letting off the accelerator and then slowly pushing the pedal back to the floor. It loses power as if you're getting ready to slow down for something and then slowly the power comes back and it does it off and on throughout a WOT run from lets say 40-75 MPH.
2007 Ford F-150 SuperCab, Lariat, 4X2, 5.4L 3V.
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i have an 07 ford f 150 5,4 liter. at speeds between 45 and 55 it has like a sputtering and jerking loss of power. I had a computer hooked up to it and it said fuel pump replaced it but it is still doing it, what this might be.
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Well I guess I going to the dealer on Monday. My F150 5.4 / 116,000 miles Has had a ticking sound on the passenger side for a week or so. Last weekend I cleaned the Mass Flow Sensor which made no change in power. I'm afraid to see what the dealer is going to say!
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I posted awhile back about a loss of power and hard shifting in the transmission. I thought I had it fixed, well I kind of did...... Replaced the IWE that had locked in solid. I replaced both, added some transmission fluid, new front brakes, and a new belt back in July/August. Truck was fine for a few thousand......
Well it's back. Now I have a noticeable whine in the cab. I haven't pin pointed it yet. It is only audible when the truck is running from 35-50 mph. It is not RPM dependent, it doesn't change when I take it in or out of four wheel drive. It isn't there when the truck isn't moving.
The truck has 61,000 on it. I bought it with 35,000 on it because I wanted a vehicle that wouldn't nickel and dime me. Something I could climb in and not worry about making home.
Well here I am less than 30,000 miles later and I have had issues with the fuel controller under the bed, brake calipers sticking, IWE's, new shocks, broken front coil spring, recall for the airbag, tie rods, ball joints, power window regulator, and now what appears to be a transmission.
I come from a long line of "FORD" guys, but I am seriously considering something else. This 04-08 model has to be one of the worst pickups ever built by ford.
Are the newer ones any better? Other than routine maintenance a vehicle shouldn't have to be touched before 61,000.
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I have a 2007 F150 King Ranch Super Crew 5.4 3v and it makes a ticking sound. I have read about the VCT solenoids and the phasers. My issue is that the ticking noise can be heard at Highway speeds. At it seems to be quicker as the engine speed increase. Not sure what to think. No rough idle. What could this be.
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The front driver's side wheel of my 2007 Ext. Cab makes a speed-related "ticking" sound. It's usually audible but not always there. I look for rocks in the tread of my BFG All-Terrains and sometimes I find some, sometimes not. The noise seems to be independent although some of the rocks really get up in there. Sometimes its really loud and it sounds like a rock. Bearing? 4WD CV or U-Joints or whatever?
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When I am driving and i go to stomp on the gas my truck feels like there is no power and makes this funny clicking noise and goes no where.
NOTE : Literally just replaced plugs and coils with success. 105k miles, Oil change 2 weeks ago
2007 F150 lariat super crew 4x4, 5.4 v8 w/ 3 valve
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I have a 2004 ford f150 5.4l v8 triton lariat and while at idle it has a ticking noise like this video
YouTube...
However I also have a rattling noise when decelerating at around 2000 rpms that sounds like a loose chain in a box. Not sure if its VCT sensor or cam phasers ...
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I have a 2005 F 150 5.4L and i just changed the front rotors, pads, and calipers. Because the passengers side caliper had locked and the rims was really hot and i knew it was the caliper so i changed both the driver and passenger side calipers and hoses. A month before this i had changed the pad and rotors but after the caliper locked it put grooves in the rotor and damaged the pad but the pads and rotors i bought have a lifetime warranty so i got a brand new set and changed them while replacing the calipers.
After installing everything i bleed the front brakes. But did not bleed the rear and i am wondering since i did not do the rear even though i did not touch them it is causing the front to make a ticking sound the whole time i am driving and it is starting to annoy me even though it has only been 4 days since i did the front brake job. I put Duralast rotors and Duralast Gold Cmax Premium Ceramics Pads. What is causing this ticking.
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Getting code P0022, which is over retarded cam position, drivers side bank. My 2004 F150 has the 5.8 triton. I have replaced all cam phasers and tensioner a as well as the timing chains. I have also replaced both VCT solenoids. Before I was getting codes for both banks, now just the code mentioned above with a slight ticking as well. My question is this... What am I not seeing? What could be causing this?? Would it be beneficial t get the lockout kit for the phasers to always keep them open?? Seems to stall a little at very low RPM like when you are off-road.
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I recently got Gibson Performance Headers on my 2006 Ford F150. And when you cold start it or just start it period it has a odd ticking noise on the passenger side.
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the F150 of my brother has the follow diseases:rough running ticking noises, low mileage per gallone, blue smoke out of exhaust after start, i have ordered the cam phaser, hope, that will be the reason. But today, my brother means, i have to do a test drive, because the truck has no power. and really, feels like missing of one or two cylinders. Very bad performance. Is it possible, that the reason are the phasers?
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I have had my 2004 since it was new and recently I have had a power loss problem from 0-40 mph. I have taken it to 3 shops and they have tried everything to figure out why I have this problem, I was told that the coils needed to be replaced and that did nothing, I have changed the fuel filter external to the tank, replaced the catalytic converters because I was told they were plugged up, the 02 sensor was replaced and all of this has not worked so I took it to the Ford dealer and they could not find the problem either. The problem worsens with higher temperatures outside... I love my truck but I am getting real tired of chasing my tail.
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Once winter arrived I started having problems with my truck running like crap after warm up. However, I noted that during initial start up and lasting till the engine got to its Normal Operating Temp, it would run like a BAOH! Once the engine reached Normal Temp, it would fall flat on its face if I got into it down the road. I wasn't getting any codes, so knowing about the EPU and timing; I opted to change out the O2 sensors. Bought all 4 sensors, Bosh, installed them and within a day got a P0420, P0303; known as Cat system efficiency below threshold and a #3 misfire. (side not all plugs, timing chains, COP's, Phasers, cam positioning sensors have been replaced within the past 18 months) So I decided to take the COP off of the #3 cyl and swapped it with the #5 cylinder; still getting a misfire on #3.
Didn't pull the plugs, knowing they have less than 50,000 miles on them. The problem lasted about a week, off and on with heavy acceleration. Then last Saturday I was driving around town, came to a stop light and the engine shook hard while stopped, missing for a few seconds but not sending a code. Upon acceleration I noticed a loud ticking coming from the right (passenger) bank. The truck practically fell on its face through 3,000 rpm's. No power, and still no codes. I got home, pulled out my steth and listened. I got a loud ticking on the cover at the #3 and #4 Cyl. I know ya'll acclaim ticking to the phasers but it's a totally different sound. Its not coming from the front of the cover as it did when my phasers went out. This is strictly confined to #3 and #4. Took it to FMC., for diagnostic fee and a day later they said, symptoms of lash adjusters. I told them I'd pick up my truck.
Got in it, and drove it home and that noise is loud, echoing through the right exhaust. Seems to be running very rich, still no power what so ever and now I pull up in my driveway and instantly get these codes. P0316 (misfire on startup), P0420 Cat efficiency below threshold, and p1000 (due to resetting my computer back to stock before taking it to FMC) I thought about doing the job myself, but working 120 hours a week I don't see how, and I'll need to buy the valve spring compressor and timing chain wedge (260.00 set) So I started calling around to mechanics, 10 to be exact, none of which, will even look at the truck.
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I have that wonderful ticking noise... Here is some info on my truck: Its 133k, 5.3L 3V. I put new plugs in it and changed the oil (YES the right filter and oil).
Okay, so I'm trying to make sure my diagnosis is what I think it is before I start digging into the motor and get angry because I ordered the wrong parts.
Preface: I got the truck from a deal auction. I was told it ran great, well when I got it, it had this tick. It comes and goes as it pleases (not dependent on the weather or RPMS. The noise is consistent, it gets faster as RPMs rise, it doesn't go away after 1,200 rpms. This lead me to eliminate cam phasers as the issue.
Now here is something odd: After starting up the truck, initially it will be pretty quick and have great throttle response, but after that it will start act like someone put on the parking brake. It can barely accelerate and when you put it to the floor it gets worse. It seems to accelerate best at half throttle. The second part is the truck will shift, dropping the rpms incredibly low and the tick gets louder and more spaced out (leading me to think it's rpm dependent).
All of the noise seems to be localized around the passenger size head area. If I unplug the VCT solenoid the ticking doesn't seem to be as loud if I drive it the next day, and it doesn't do the shift into lower rpms and accelerates wonderfully. Leading me to think it's either the timing is off and when the phasers kick on it goes way out of time and causes it to go into limp mode...or the VCT solenoid is bad?
The ticking never fully goes away, but it has it's quiet days and LOUD days...
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My alarm started going off by itself and my truck would not start so we unhooked the horn but the alarm was still trying to go off making a ticking noise when the horn should have been honking. so we also unhooked the alarm. And it started right up. I've been driving it with those things off with no problem. But today it wouldn't start again and its making a ticking noise like the horn is trying to honk.
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I recently hit 180,000 km on my mileage and all of the sudden theres increased ticking engine noise and vibration. Sounds like a diesel engine. No check engine lights, gas mileage is the same, acceleration is the same and as far as I can tell after checking oil its within normal range for now.
I'm worried its either the VVTi Rubber hose exploded or its the VVTI Camshaft / piston slap issue. My dilemna is I'm 3 hours drive away from a Lexus dealer but there is a Toyota Dealer 10 min away. Should I bring it in to verify theres no oil leak at Toyota and then take it back to a Lexus mechanic to see if it is Camshaft gear ?
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My 2006 F150 King Ranch 90K 5.4 lags both torque and power in addition to only 11-12 MPG
In the city it does not bother me to much but when on the highway trying its very annoying. I used to have 2005 F-150 before so I know the difference. When I accelerate its ok but lags some serious power especially at high RPM. but without any hesitation. When I try to tow my trailer or go uphill it has no torque. I still haven't tried a dyno reading
Note: The engine runs smooth, no misfires or shows no codes. The only codes I got before was for the evaporation system but disappeared after I replaced the Fuel Pump Driver Module
Now I already replaced the: Spark plugs, mass airflow sensor, cats, air filter, fuel filter + fuel pump driver module, bought another tuner. I even took it to the dealership without any findings
Now I am beginning to think if the engine timing could be slightly wrong. I just can't figure out what it is if it throws no codes and runs perfectly smooth. It's just like it's not getting enough air or fuel but without any hesitation or misfire.
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i have a 2005 expedition with the 5.4 and 100k miles. Rescently it began to missfire badly and lost almost all power to the point where it nearly dies. I have seveal codes that are baffeling me. Bank 1 is rich bank 2 is lean(this may be the other way around, p0300(multiple cyl missfire) and then 4 individual cyl missfire codes. I changed all of the spark plugs with factory motocraft ones from ford as the old ones were shot. Seems to miss just as badly as before and is no where near driveable. What would cause one bank to be rich and one bank lean? I ohmed all of the coils when I had them out and they all are very close to each other with no odd ball ohm readings so I believe they are all ok. Any sugestions as to where to check next?
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