Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2007 Lariat 4X4 Hi Indicator Light Out On Dash
Feb 7, 2014
I have a 07 Lariat with vacuum 4X4 switch. Goes in and out of 4 Hi and Low however dose not light up on dash for 4 Hi only( 4 Lo lights up ). Is this the beginning of a vacuum leak or bigger problem?
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I just installed a set of HID conversion kit on my 2005 F-150 STX. It is only one beam bulb so therefor I have no high beams. Also, to remind you I have fog lights on the truck. My question is, when I turn my head lights on, and pull the switch to turn on the fog lights, a "blue light" indicator lights up on the dash. It is the high beam indicator and why that is lit. As far as I remember, that light never came on before the install. You have to excuse me since this is my first truck ever and I just got it back after having it repaired at the body shop the last two months. So technically, I only had the truck for 2 months....Just curious whether the blue light is suppose to be on when the fogs are on the dash.
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I have a 2007 F-150 5.4L V3 Lariat with 90,000 miles on it. For about 5-6 months now I have noticed a strong sputtering when I am driving at low RPM's around the 44-50 mph range. When I lightly give it gas the sputtering begins and doesn't cease until I accelerate out of the current gear into a higher RPM/speed. This has become more pronounced over the last few weeks so my mechanic replaced the fuel flter and checked to make sure the pump was working as well. We also added some 5w-30 oil to make it full, even though 5-20 is preferred.
Truck ran smooth initially but then it got worse with the sputtering. A couple of days later I filled up my gas tank and as I pulled out of the station my truck shuttered alot and died. the CEL came on, LOP came on, and even the low tire pressure light came on. The truck will not start now, but it cranks smooth and strong until the battery loses power. I had the truck towed and then we reset the gas shut of toggle, sprayed starting fluid in the air intake, and checked all fuses, as well as the fuel pump engagement. Still no ignition. Next we replaced all spark plugs(4.5 hours later). Still no ignition. Only CEL light and low tire pressure light. I bought it used less than 18 months ago?
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I have a 2007 F-150 that I'm having a little problem with. The tire pressure indicator light has kept coming on almost every time I drive it. I checked the tires, all register 35 pounds cold which is what it calls for. It has been going on in hot or cold weather for the past 4-5 months but will go off after I'd say 5 or 10 minutes of driving it. I really can't figure out what is going on with it. Bad sensor maybe? I looked to find something about this but couldn't or I didn't look hard enough.
2007 Ford F-150, Supercab, Lariat, 4X2, 6FT5 box,
5.4 Triton V8, black in color, gold bottom trim, 3.73 LSD,
9.75 axle, tow pckg. 0-60 recently clocked at 7.7 sec with
no tune.
Mods: Magnaflow SI/DO exhaust.
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Will the wheels for 2012 fx4 fit my 2004 lariat 6 lugs?
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I have a 2004 Buick Century and the small window that indicates what gear you are in, on the dash, is very dim. All other dash lights are bright and working good. Is this the bulb and what sort of job is it to change it.
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Having issue with his truck. He bought it 3 months ago and has no history. 166k. You now know as much as I do about the truck! He knows little about automobiles so fact finding has been difficult. I have done all my own work on countless US and foreign automobiles over the last 30 years and never take my vehicles anywhere. I will try to post as much detailed info as I can. I have read tons of posts now on various forums so I am up to speed on VCT and phasers.
This one seems similar, but not exactly the same symptoms which is why I am here. I have already pulled the VCTs and found the passenger side missing the top screen. I swapped them from side to side which made no difference. I checked ohms and they were at 15 which is normal from what I read. They were very clean and moved easily when I took them out so they were not gunked up so I don't think that's the problem. It idles very smoothly and isn't rough at all.
I have posted a video of the knocking/dieseling noise (link below) coming from the passenger side. The knocking starts as soon as the truck is started hot or cold (outside temps right now 70F-90F Houston). I can make the knock disappear by gently depressing the gas pedal going from idle of about 650/700 to maybe 750/800 and it will go away completely as long as I keep it gently depressed. As soon as I lift up it returns.
If I rev it up to 2000-3000 rpm it does not knock, however, as soon as I lift off quickly, it seems to knock at a high speed, hangs for a second and then knocks all the way back to idle. However, if I rev up and then lift off very slowly, it will not knock. I have tried to locate the exact location of the knock, but doesn't exactly seem right at the phaser, but actually back around the 2nd and 3rd spark plug area, but I can't tell exactly. I've had a couple people tell me the same when I asked them to tell me where its coming from. The noise is bouncing around in there so difficult to pinpoint exact area.
[URL] .....
I wanted to get some second opinions on what this could be so I know where to go next.
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'08 Ford F-150 with 53,000 miles. ABS indicator light has been coming on intermittently for a week now. Mechanic said its a left front wheel sensor code. Wants to charge $98 to diagnose. Says it could be bad sensor or broken wire.
I have limited mechanical experience. Is this something I can tackle? Or is this a major job?
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2007 F150 Lariat.. I cannot get disc 1 to eject from the changer. It will eject the other 5. It starts to eject disc 1, I can see the edge of the disc, then it just reloads it.
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Shut my truck off, now it won't start. Turn key to start position all proper lights appear on dash. No clicks,no nothing. Replaced a relay which owners manual shown as starter solenoid, man at auto parts said it was fried. Put new relay in still no change. checked everything I could find w/ ignition,starter,solenoid ,etc. fuses relays, according to pictures in owner's manual, they all appeared to be ok. Never,ever had any problems with this truck and charging system is working,IE: battery isn't shot.
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My 2007 F150. That jack wobbles in the hole and, when I plug in a cave, it does not make solid contact. What I am wondering is, does that little panel on top of the dash pop out of that hole to give access to the jack? I am wondering if I can tighten it and re-tension the contacts if I can just get behind that panel.
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I have a 2004 F-150 Non Heritage. The 4WD was working fine last year and is not working now. The light on the dash comes on and I do seen to be getting vacuum at the hub but it is not engaging. Several months prior to using the 4WD I did do some front end work and must have knocked the vac line off. It was off for several months, I reinstalled it and it is still not working.
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I have 08 F150 that the 4x4 is not working on.The light on the dash comes on and I can hear the transfer case engaging.I checked to make sure that I have vacuum to the switch under the hood and that the vacuum line going down to the front diff is holding vacuum.I'm just not sure how it engages the diff.
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I bought my 2004 F150 about a year and a half ago and the cruise has never worked. I have checked the fuses (02, 14, 15) and all are good. I tried the diagnostic route with holding the off button but no cruise light ever comes up on the dash. You do have to push the brake to move out of park.
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I have a 2005 F250 6.0. Its an XLT Trim but i want the features of a Lariat. would a Dash Swap Work or is it pointless?
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About 45 seconds after start up Battery light on dash illuminates. Gauge shows in good range. Fluke meter across battery terminals reads 14.2 - 14.4 volts at idle with lights on high beam. No TDC's.
Truck is new to me, engine was replaced recently so I did do a check of harness connections with no problems found, what I should check next ?
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2004 Lariat ... My cruise isn't working, won't even come (no light on dash). I tried the self test where you turn the ign on with the E-brake on and try holding the cruise off button to enter some kind of diag mode but it didn't work. I found a video on youtube where a mechanic replaced some pressure switch on the master cyl but my master cyl doesn't have what the video showed. I read somewhere about the 3rd brake light having something to do with it. FWIW, my 3rd brake light does not work.
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I recently purchased an 07 f150 lariat leveled 4x4. I noticed the other day that all at once, the abs light and parking brake light came onto the dash, 4x4 low doesn't work and just stays in high and the ac doesn't blow cold. I'm assuming this is somewhat connected considering this all happened at once but really just not sure.
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My 2004 F150 has a weird bug related to the seat belt sensor - it only reads the seat belt condition when the truck is first started, then ignores it the rest of the time. Not a big deal so long as I remember to buckle up before starting it. I tried to do the routine of turning off the chime, but because it doesn't read the seatbelt condition after the key is in the run position, it can't be performed. Likewise, if I start the truck buckled up and then unbuckle once its running, the seatbelt light does not illuminate on the dash. Certainly an easy enough work around, though rather odd. It's not a symptom of anything else, is it?
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Last night, my 2008 Prius was hit from the rear. The bumper was damaged as well as a few starches on the hatch. However the latch for the hatch was move forward so the hatch no longer latches. Also during the collision, my daughter's heavy backpack was throw against the back of the passenger seat with enough force to hurt her back.
The airbag warning light remains on along with the dash indicator saying the airbag is off. Does mean all the airbags are disabled? Can this be reset? The car will be professionally repaired but I still need to drive it until I can get it repaired.
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Last night battery light came on. Drove 40 miles home with lights on. Today, it started so I headed out. About 10 miles of battery light on, gauge fluctuating mildly either side of middle, gauge suddenly drops dramatically. I turn around and head back. After a mile or so there's a terrible growling under the hood, sounded like it could be an alternator bearing. Just as I pull over, the noise stops but entire dash goes black. Popped hood, alternator spinning quietly and not hot. I drove back and it started stumbling and surging as the battery died and it finally quit almost all the way back.
I have battery on charger now. I assume the BCM is the regulator by feeding current back to the field? If so could the growling be the BCM feeding back a huge field and the rectifier bridge growing? And the BCM fuse blew because too much current to alternator field coils? Will it start with a charged battery with the BCM dead? I need it to run to get to the parts place. Which fuses do I need to check? Then, how do I check the alternator, wiring, BCM regulator to find original problem?
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