Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2007 - Intermittent Rough Idle At Low Speeds When Engine Is Warm
Jan 25, 2011
Still showing the same codes (per repairman) and still having the intermittent rough idle at low speeds when the engine is warm. It has been so intermittent that I could almost live with it.
So repair guys first replaces the VCT's and runs fine until warmed up and the problem reoccurs with the same codes. He replaces both cam phasers and tensioners today and still same problem and same codes which point to the VCT and cam phasers.
Truck has 80k, city driven, oil changed every 3k or so. Burns ethanol and still runs great at speeds over 10 mph even when this problem appears.
View 9 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 05 fx4 5.4L with 85k on it. It has started idling rough when i come to a stop light or slow down to 10 mph or less. It only does it once in a while. There doesn't seem to be any real pattern. The motor shakes until you rev it up and then it goes away.
I have cleaned the maf, put in new air filter and fuel filter. And put in a new battery. Would a coil act like that? Maybe plugs? Or a vacuum leak?
View 14 Replies
I purchased an '08 F150 about 6 months ago, and have a problem that two mechanics haven't been able to solve. The truck has a 5.4L engine. Unfortunately, I bought from an auction and the 30 day warranty expired before I realized the problem.
After a longer drive (30 minutes to work) the engine is warm, and I always back into my parking spot or driveway. In low gear, it begins to idle very rough and the engine shakes. If I leave it long enough, it will stall. Usually I pop it into neutral, give it some gas, and its fine. I just bought a camper trailer, so I'll need to use the lower gear when backing up.
So far, the engine has been flushed twice, the solenoid replaced and phaser replaced. The second mechanic has recommended I contact a dealer, but haven't had luck with them with my previous Explorer. What it could be? I will be getting the diagnostic paperwork this week.
View 14 Replies
I just purchased my first F150, 4.6L V8, 55,600 Miles. It intermittently has a rough idle and only seems to be when the engine is hot. I've had engine and tranny mechanics look it. The spark plugs have been inspected and are within an acceptable range. The throttle body has been cleaned. There are no trouble codes of any kind. What I can check next?
View 13 Replies
I have 2004 f150 small v8 (4.7?) Has about 92000 miles.
When warm truck runs excellently. At first start up the idle is very rough and raw gas smell for about 4 minutes then truck runs like new. Will start and restart great until it cools down overnite.
My actron says missfire cyl 3. Did not fix it. Dealer says that on start up compression is zero in cylinder three but is 100% when it warms up. Suggested I run seafoam through it. He thinks it has a vacuum leak or carbon at start.
In my limited knowledge I am thinking:
sticky lifter
bent push rods
warp valve
View 4 Replies
2005 f150 Lariat 4x4 5.4
Had phasers, tensioners, chains, guides, and sensors replaced. After driving the truck, it started to get a rough idle at low speeds, primarily in reverse. Changed both vct solenoids with no results. Started to get p0022 code. Changed the oil with motorcraft filter and 5w-20 twice after the work had been done, thinking it might need it. Vct's were a little varnished, but not too bad.
After a couple days of light driving, got a misfire on #3. Replaced the coil and it hasn't been back since. I am stumped at this point.
The computer show the timing to be at +13 when sitting stopped and in drive. It fluctuates a little, but not much. When the truck goes into a rough idle. The rpm's fluctuate wildly. It seems to be happening more frequently, the more I drive it.
View 3 Replies
This is what my car is doing after it warms up. It will do it then stop, then do it again and so on. I am pretty sure when the motor is under load it runs a little rough but is hard to tell. The car has 178,000 miles on it. timing belt was done at 113,000. I just replace the plugs and wires changed the oil and the air filter 1,000 miles ago. and it will still do it. I am at a loss as to why it keeps doing this. I have tried injector cleaner, sea foam and engine restore. What would cause this? The check engine light is not on. i replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor about 40,000 miles ago.
Its a 2003 hatch with the 1.6 5 speed .....
View 8 Replies
My 07 F-150 5.4 has a rough idle during a cold start for about 1 minute. It happens mostly when the weather is chilly or cold. Also after the first start it doesn't do it the rest of the day. Of coarse they can't find anything wrong and tell me there are no updates for anything like that.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2008 Ford F150 4.6L and its been broken down in our shop for quite some time now. It started acting funny when I could not get the truck to do over 80kmh. Slow acceleration, and a horrible shaking when it idled. Eventually it was undriveable since I could go above 50kmh anymore. From looking online we replaced the plugs and coils. We removed the intake to find the gaskets were shot so coolant was leaking into the spark plug tubes which could've been the cause of a misfire. Fixed that. Still the same. We replaced the egr valve and dpfe sensor because we keep getting the P0402 excessive egr flow code. Still no luck. My dad is a journeyman hes just not too familiar with newer trucks.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2008 Santa Fe 2,2 CRDi that recently started to behave bad. When cold it starts but runs only for a few seconds before it dies. The engine seems to shut off without any notice. I am able to start the car again straight away, but the same thing happens.
If I try to push the throttle I might be able to keep it running for a longer while, and it seems to improve as the engine gets warmer, but it still dies after a while. (Some minutes.) When running, the engine feels kind of rough (hard) and not a smooth as its supposed to be.
I have cleaned the EGR valve, and replaced all the injectors. I also checked the diesel filter for water and flow, but didn't replaced as it was changed this summer.
The car is a no runner as it is now, since the uncontrolled shutdown of the engine makes it danger to use in the traffic.
View 2 Replies
My 04 F150 has started having a rough idle. While in park the engine will stall out with the A/C off. Also when in drive the truck will idle close to 1000rpm's. I had to the fuel filter cleaned and also the MAF sensor cleaned. Also did a vacuum check on it. Pulled the code and it's throwing a Lean Code. What else should I be looking for?
View 12 Replies
2004 F150 5.4 3v. I bought the truck with 102k on it, it now has 124k. In the morning, when the outside temp is between 30-50, the engine starts and runs fine. When I get to the first red light ( about 1 mile away) within seconds of the engine at idle, engine starts to run rough and CEL. Every time the code is p0351. If I let it sit in the driveway to full warm up... no problem. If I start the truck, shut it off and restart...no problem. It only happens at the cooler temps. I have changed plugs, used motorcraft, nickel antiseize, torqued, etc. Ford changed the coil, I have changed the coil, cleaned MAF. As soon as I cross the intersection, light stays on, rough running clears up, and runs like a champ for the rest of the day.
View 2 Replies
My 2007 prius has been idling very roughly recently. It seems to be every time the petrol engine kicks in when the main battery is low and charging. A few weeks back, the malfunction indicator light came on and i took it to the dealer. They said my spark plugs had a lot of carbon build up on them so they cleaned them up and put them back in. Also it was missfiring from time to time. The light went away but it is still idling rough if not rougher then before they cleaned the spark plugs. Its not just like that in the morning. Even if my car has been sitting in 40 degree celsius heat all day it still idles like that. They recommended I use better quallity fuel. I used to use E10 but when I was doing long drives, i filled up with normal unleded. I havent used E10 since then. It never had the rough idle problem when I was using E10 so I am curious to think my car may not like normal unleded. The fuel quality here in Brisbane Australia isnt known for its poor quallity. I'm not sure what to do next. People have recommeded for me to use Wynns Spitfire fuel treatment to keep the spark plugs and injectors clean.
View 5 Replies
I have a 2007 F150 with the 5.4 FFV. Early last summer my truck started acting like the harmonic balancer was going bad, when it was hot out my engine would shake at an idle. Then in October it threw a check engine light, wouldn't get over 20 mph and was shaking the entire truck. The codes said my timing was out so I replaced the timing chains, guides and tensioners, which were bad on the passenger side. When I started it back up it ran rough, and the check engine light came back on with a "bank A over-retarded" code.
So I went back in thinking I had put the chain on one tooth off. Got it back together and it ran the same way. After doing some soul searching on this website I determined the VCT Solenoid for the driver's side may be bad, and I went back in a third time and replaced the solenoid. Now it runs worse than it did the first time, it won't even idle and it is nearly impossible to start in the first place... This truck only has 103,000 miles and was running great before this...
View 11 Replies
History: Truck was running okay but acted like a coil was bad when under load. I changed out all the plugs with Motorcraft and put on Summit racing COPs.
After the plug and cop change the truck will run rough after it is warmed up. I changed back to the old COPs and it runs the same.
First I replaced the MAF sensor after finding many posts on here about it. No change.
I read a bunch of posts on oil causing the problem so I used 10-30w and nothing changed.
I searched for a vacuum leak with carb cleaner and couldn't find one. I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the throttle body.
When I did the plug change I disconnected the PCM without disconnecting the battery. Would this cause this type of problem?
I think this is about all the stuff I found to try in the threads that came up through searching.
View 13 Replies
98 Honda Accord with 2.3L has 354,000 miles on it and up until recently ran like it was still new. Have developed erratic idle speeds. When it is cold it idles around 1100-1200 rpm. When the radiator fans are on or the A/C compressor is on it runs around 800-900 rpm. These are normal speeds and great. However, when the engine is warm/hot, in PARK, radiator fans are off, and A/C compressor kicks off, the idle speed drops to what appears to be about a rough idling 500 rpm's and the engine can barely stay running. I've attempted to look for the obvious. I own the Honda Shop Service manual if there is a particular component or most likely suspect area I should start at.
View 6 Replies
My g/f's 2004 Ford Escape (3.0L V6 AWD 112,000mi) is acting up. After a full day of sitting, with the second half of it raining steadily, she was driving her Escape and it was acting funny (miss-firing, she said). The engine light came on and soon began blinking. She got to my house shortly after it started this. We left it and I drove for the day. Later that night, I drove it and it seemed fine. The engine light was on, but not flashing anymore.
The next day I took it my friend that was a Saturn mechanic and now working at a KIA dealership (same owner as the former Saturn and current Buick/GMC and Chevy Dealer). It ran fine for me. So he tries to scan it, his Mac Tools scanner won't read it. The KIA scanner wouldn't read it. I drove it the Ford dealer up the road. They said they couldn't get to it until after lunch, I just want the codes read. They re-iterated, and I told them to pound salt and went to an independent shop where I know a guy. They read it right away for me. "Mis-fire on start-up" & "Cylinder 4 Mis-fire." were the two codes stored. He cleared them.
She got the tune up basics (plugs, wires, air filter, etc) and did the complete tune-up herself yesterday. (I was impressed). She put 94 in the tank and some fuel system cleaner in it as well. She said there's been no change and today I finally saw what it was doing. Sometimes during idling at a stop light, the RPMs will drop to almost zero, the lights dim but so far it has not stalled. It'll do this for several seconds, then correct itself and idle normally.
Currently, the engine light has not come back on. She's thinking coil pack (each cylinder has a coil on these engines) on #4. She wants to switch it out with #1 and see if the problem follows. I think that might uncover the cause, or it could be the battery. It's the original, never been replaced and has a lot of miles on it, but it survived this past winter, without trouble. In my experience, most batteries crap out due to age in the fall when the cold snaps start.
View 11 Replies
Recently I have been experiencing some rough and low idles with my 1MZ-FE 05' Camry. The car runs idles perfectly fine and drops to the correct idle when cold, however if the engine has been running at normal temperature and started again soon after the idle drops extremely low until the throttle is opened.
I have cleaned the throttle body with with throttle body cleaner a number of times, although I haven't taken the IAC valve out and cleaned it separately. I have also heard that the Engine Coolant Temp valve may be going bad. Could my symptoms fit this?
I had a dodgy EGR sensor not long ago that was giving me rough idles on a cold start, however I managed to mitigate that problem a by cleaning simply removing the sensor and giving it a quick clean. I don't think that this is the cause but I can't be sure.
I haven't had the spark plugs or fuel filter changed in a while although I'm unsure that these would be the problem if the idle was rough and low only when the engine was warm.
View 12 Replies
Im trying to chase down an engine miss fire on a 2007 with the 5.4L. It only seems to miss under no-load conditions, such as at idle and on a downgrade while driving. Acceleration and under a load it runs fine. New Champion plugs were installed at 135,000 miles. The truck now has 150,000 miles and has only been miss firing for the last 1,000 miles or so. I pulled the connector off of the coils one at a time to try and figure out which cylinder/s were missing. I thought I found the problem ones and replaced two of the coils, but it ended up not fixing the issue. Ive tried spraying carb cleaner at and around the intake to check for leaks, but found none. I have a scanner, but the check engine light is not on, so its not much luck.
View 5 Replies
I have a 1986 Celica GT-S with 50,000 original miles on it. Car starts perfectly fine in the morning, runs fine, no issues. Problem happens when the engine is warm, and I let it cool off for about 10 minutes or so, at that point, when I try and turn the engine over, it would sometimes turn over and idle very rough, or sometimes it would die and I have to give it gas to keep the engine running. Once I am able to get it in gear and drive, the engine rpm would recover and go back to normal. I have new NGK wires, denso iridium spark plugs.
View 2 Replies
My brother's 5.4 has been rough idling and dying at stops and in reverse for a few weeks now. Today it threw a code and he finally had me look at it and it's a P0345 code. I was thinking cam phasers possibly, but I didn't think that would cause a code to throw. Also, all I hear about cam phasers is that it makes the truck sound like a diesel, but his when it's about to die sounds like the engine is about to drop out the bottom of the engine bay. Really rough, REALLY loud knocking, etc... What we should be looking at replacing to get this thing back into shape?
View 3 Replies
