Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2007 - Idling Rough And Stumbling A Bit
Jan 9, 2013
I have a 2007 F-150. Here is the story....
Last summer the truck was idling rough and seemed to be stumbling a bit. Took it to the dealership and had it diagnosed. Had a mis-fire code on cylinders 1 and 3. I was told to do the spark plugs and clean the MAF. After replacing all plugs and cleaning the MAF the truck seemed to run better but it didnt last long before it started doing the same thing. My Edge Evolution started showing misfire codes in cylinders 1 and 3 again and the truck is stumbling like crazy. Here is what i have done:
1. Swapped the plugs from cyl. 1 and 3 with cyl. 5 and 7 and the problem followed.
2. I replaced the bad plugs with new ones and i no longer get a code for those cylinders but the truck is still acting the same.
Now I am getting two codes saying the system is running rich on bank 1 and 2 and a misfire code in cylinder 4. I cleaned the K&N filter and replaced the MAF but it is still the same. The truck stumbles horribly under a load and has NO power.
History:
2007 F-150 5.4L Lariat
75K miles +/-
K&N Filter
Edge Evolution (has been kept in stock mode)
new spark plugs last summer
new MAF (this week)
New Fuel filter (two summers ago)
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2007 F150 XLT, Supercab 6.5' bed, 4x4 5.4 Automatic with 67000 miles on it. Its not a Flex Fuel
Over the past couple of weeks it would get go through random rough idling spell or stall going down the road. If it was sitting it would idle clear down to 200 RPM's and just sound like an old 'chitty-chitty-bang-bang' car, not a modern marvel of Ford engineering!
I noticed it particularly does it this on an incline. Initially I fixed it by just coasting to where it was flat. I normally keep it above half a tank so i dont think its a fuel pump not getting fed. So I replaced the fuel filter yesterday hoping it was full or clogged, no changed.
This morning it would start at all, I removed the negative terminal on the battery, rolled to the level, tried it 30 times. Nothing. I checked all of my connectors under the hood and the 2 below the cab under the plastic cover. Everything was connected. I disconnected the fuel pressure sensor and it fired right up and runs smoother than since I've owned it.
It hasn't had any CEL lights, until I disconnected that sensor. Should I drop the tank and clean it? Is there any special gasket kits or connectors I should be aware of? Should I just replace that sensor? Is it connected with a chain of sensors I should check first?
View 2 Replies
Got an 07 Screw with only 50,000 miles. Yesterday, wife drove it home from work and said it would only do 45mph and didn't sound good. No warning lights were on, she said. I test drove it in the evening and it ran totally fine. Today, she drives it to work and said it ran real rough and "Check Engine" light was on. I picked it up from her work and it idles very rough and slow, and once you hit about 2000 rpm, it runs decent, maybe even normal. Below that, it stumbles and engine doesn't sound right. "Check Engine" light is either ON steady, or flashing. I don't have a code reader, so its likely going to the Ford Dealer Monday. Is there any way to read the code without a reader?
View 11 Replies
My 2007 Ford F150 Lariat (5.4L) with 82k miles popped a P0307 (#7 misfire) code one chilly morning. It began stumbing and hesitating a bit between 25-35mph, and each time it occurred, the engine light would flash on and off. Hesitation clears and light goes steady. Cleared the code and didn't see problems again for a month...until the next cold day (freezing temps). Popped again and hesitation returned. Ford dealer wants to change plugs. I've read coils can also cause the issue. Not sure if I can do either myself.
View 4 Replies
My truck is idling terribly and knocks while doing so, little info is
The truck has 170k miles, I just bought it about two months ago and it was running perfect, drove it to the beach two or three times (4 hour drive) no problems whatsoever. Two weeks ago I noticed it start rocking a bit at idle ONLY when warm, check engine light came on so I ran the code and it said the Cam shaft positioning sensor was bad so I replaced both of those, then the next code I got was for the vct solenoids, replaced both of those and the problem is still persisting. It is odd to me in the fact that when its cold, it runs flawlessly, no problem accelerating/idling/maintaining speed/smoke nothing at all.
As soon as it gets warm it will still do everything flawlessly EXCEPT idle. the idle rpm is around 300-400 and it rocks and knocks terribly.. If i am stopped and I apply some throttle in park or nuetral, just enough to get the rpm up to around 800-900, its perfectly fine. no more rocking no more knocking but as soon as i let my foot off the gas it goes right back to feeling like its going to fly out from underneath the hood.
So my question is why is this? What on earth is going on here? and how do I fix it? And why is there not a manual idle control. Ford place said there was likely damage to the head and recommended a full engine replacement.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2005 5.4 F-150. First off it came to me on a rollback because the owner tried to replace his plugs after he noticed it missing and of course broke one off. So after I extracted the plug from #8 cylinder and installed a new plug I cranked the truck and it was idling very rough and had a terrible miss around 1200rpm. I pulled the codes and got several misfire codes and ignition coil faults on #5,6 and 7 cylinder. Popped in 3 known good coils in these 3 cylinders with no difference.
On Mode 6 on my diagnostic software you could watch the misfire count steadily increase on #7 and every now and then there would be a single misfire on #5 and 6. It also had several codes for O2 sensors biased, stuck rich on that bank. Well since it had a brand new plug and coil, I popped an injector in #7 and havent had a single misfire on it since and it also started idling alot better and all the O2 codes went away. The problem I am having now is #5, 6 and now 8 will randomly misfire, sometimes build up a steady count on one of them, sometimes just skip around between them.
The truck has brand new plugs in all 8 and new coils on this bank also. The truck has 115,000 on it and does have some cam phaser noise on the bank causing the problem, but its not too terribly bad, I have heard alot worse. My problem is something on that bank only as the passenger side bank is fine. I am wanting to say cam phaser now since this is the side with the noise. I have changed them before but have just experienced the noise, never one running like this because of it. Possibly jumped time a little?
View 14 Replies
I have a cylinder 3 misfire and the vehicle is idling rough so I took it to the deal because I have a power terrain warranty. They're telling me I'll need a new manifold and plenum, coil pack, plugs, and gasket. Could this be accurate? I don't want to get screwed over...
View 9 Replies
My brother's 5.4 has been rough idling and dying at stops and in reverse for a few weeks now. Today it threw a code and he finally had me look at it and it's a P0345 code. I was thinking cam phasers possibly, but I didn't think that would cause a code to throw. Also, all I hear about cam phasers is that it makes the truck sound like a diesel, but his when it's about to die sounds like the engine is about to drop out the bottom of the engine bay. Really rough, REALLY loud knocking, etc... What we should be looking at replacing to get this thing back into shape?
View 3 Replies
So I bought an 04 3 months ago everything seemed good all deltas were good had a small leak nothing serious. I had the egr deleted then i did the mistake of flooring it 1 morning at top end and the mech is telling me threw a valve. The truck was stumbling and running ruff with white smoke. looks like cycl. 7 took a hit and shows 10 psi of compression. The injector are in working order and so are the rockers. the bill is 3500 all in for new gaskets and oil cooler head work, arp studs and labor.
View 8 Replies
2007 f150 5.4 supercrew, average temp for the last 2 weeks was -27. I plug the truck in all night it starts good and idles down fast engine is warm. no heat after idling for 3-5 min and then try to drive it takes another 5 min for the temp gauge to hit full temp 192. then my windows fog over even the dash and there is minimal heat coming out takes another 10-15 min to clear the windows. what the "F". fulid levels up, winter front on, block heater works, not using or smelling antifreeze, brush off every last speck of snow and I still have to pull over on the highway and wait......should have kept my 95 5.8l.
View 10 Replies
My 07 F-150 5.4 has a rough idle during a cold start for about 1 minute. It happens mostly when the weather is chilly or cold. Also after the first start it doesn't do it the rest of the day. Of coarse they can't find anything wrong and tell me there are no updates for anything like that.
View 3 Replies
I have 07 sscrew with 5.4. 93,000 miles. At start up truck runs perfect. After 20-30 minutes of running motor will start to start running rough at low rpm. Diesel sound. I can rev up and motor clears up and idles fine. Should I replace VCT solenoids? Or phasers? Or both at one time??
View 14 Replies
I have an 07 f150 v8 5.4 and it idles very rough. When i start it it seems to start really rough and just about everytime im stopped its shaking just enough to annoy me. Do you think its the spark plugs? I took into the dealer about a month ago and they said everything was fine. But its still doing the same thing. Also the A/C tottaly sucks is that they way it is? When I accelerate the cold air gets kinda warm and it doesn't get cold until i get up to speed.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2007 Ford F-150 5.4l v8...
Codes
P0012 int cam position timing over ret bank 1
P0022 int cam position timing over ret bank 2
P0300 random Missfire detected
P0316 engine misfire detected on start up
P0340 cam position sensor curcuit fault
P0345 cmp sensor a circuit problem bank 2
Starts rough, idles rough and stalls occur often when start, after it runs for 5 minutes and sometimes dint starts at all. I replaced spark plugs, coils, cam shaft sensors and had oil changes done and. No effect.
View 8 Replies
Still showing the same codes (per repairman) and still having the intermittent rough idle at low speeds when the engine is warm. It has been so intermittent that I could almost live with it.
So repair guys first replaces the VCT's and runs fine until warmed up and the problem reoccurs with the same codes. He replaces both cam phasers and tensioners today and still same problem and same codes which point to the VCT and cam phasers.
Truck has 80k, city driven, oil changed every 3k or so. Burns ethanol and still runs great at speeds over 10 mph even when this problem appears.
View 9 Replies
I've got a 2004 Explorer 4X4 with the FlexFuel 4.0L V6 126,xxxish Miles... Last Monday i noticed that the x was idling rough around 500rpm. While in park or driving.
I spent Wednesday looking for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner, cleaned the MAF, Changed the Hose that runs from the intake to the evap purge valve thinger.
Broke off the two torx head bolts holding the TPS on and had to buy a whole new throttle body. Installed the new throttle body and fired it up. it idles around 1000 for a few seconds then drops to 500 ish rpm. While the rpms are coming down it runs as rough as it did before..
I've filled it with premium gas and added a bottle of gas dryer to the tank and still idling like crap, drives fine though.
View 10 Replies
IAC issues? 2003 Ford Focus LX 2.0 ... Over the last week or so, my car has occasionally started very roughly. It stumbles and is very rough. After about 20 or so seconds, it smooths and drives fine.
Also, I've noticed in the last few weeks that there is a noticeable drop in power when I turn on the blower, even with the AC off. Not a loss as where it stalls, but still very noticeable. Then I've also noticed that when I'm at a long light, or other times I start it and it doesn't stumble/start rough, that it will sort of feel as if someone is slowly pushing down on the accelerator and releasing, and this can go on for a while. Not dramatically, but definitely noticeable.
View 5 Replies
I have an 08 Passat 2.0T with 44k on it, just did the 40k service around 42k. This past Friday I filled up from almost completely empty, and later that day and ever since the engine has been idling rough and the CEL came on. Gas cap has been checked already.
Should I wait to go to the Stealership until I've burned this tank of gas out? Is there anything else I can do that you can think of?
View 8 Replies
Check engine and tcs light came on solid. Rough idling and rpm fluctuations while cruising. Brought it to toyota and they scanned it revealing a P2195 code: bank 1 air fuel sensor stuck lean. So what I'd like to know is; How long was the vehicle in the shop? What is involved in repairing this problem?
View 10 Replies
So the last couple times I got a car wash the truck started running real rough, sometimes dies, then runs fine after a few minutes. Well, the last car wash I got it did it again, but the issue didn't go away. I checked the injector plugs, cleaned and greased, no change. Validated the bowl is filling with fuel, changed fuel filter, no luck.
Sometimes it will start and idle fine, rev in neutral fine, if you come off throttle abruptly it will fall below normal idle and start stumbling with an SES light and eventually die.
I managed to get it idling good, started logging with TPro (attached) and it was throwing codes P0475 - Exhaust Pressure Control Valve, and P0705 - Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction, as well as P1211, p1249, p1316 listed as 'multiple descriptions'.
I'm assuming this is an electrical issue since it happened after washing the truck, just not sure what sensor would cause all this?
View 14 Replies
Well all is ok now but I am not one to ignore or forget a symptom. After a long drive into the city over Christmas I pulled in to park at my destination. It was idling rough when I stopped. Vibration my be a better adjective but not too bad. It did not feel like ignition etc, not MIL on and putting it in Part did not change it. I shut it off and went inside for the festivities. Started it for the drive back and all was ok.
Whether some bad gas with water got in or something else I don't know as it as above freezing but I got thinking about this dam harmonic balancer pulley may have had on the 3.3L go. I have seen some post in in 2006 as well with this engine in other models. I got some 47L of quality Shell gas later on as well for the drive home days later. Still no issues but... IT HAPPENED AND I DON'T FORGET so I am thinking about it.
Is this a major problem on SF's some went as early as 30k from the owers. I had no other indicators and I doubt there is going to be much to see in the space with a light.
View 6 Replies
