Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2007 - Fuel Gauge Is Not Working Properly
Jul 21, 2013
My fuel gauge is not working properly. I ran out of gas while going down the road with the fuel gauge still at 1/4 tank. What do I do to fix this problem?
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Just bought a 04 f150 crewcab 4x4 and the fuel gauge doesn't work.
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Yesterday my fuel gauge stopped working it is pegged all the way to the left. I filled up the truck no change. Got home and my garage door opener would not work and when sitting in car the map lights wont come on, the overhead lights work when you open the door. Cannot find any reference to what fuse any those items are connected to. is there a fuse for the fuel gauge?
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I have a 2007 F150 XLT with 150K Km. Recently the fuel gauge rises slowly ( 2 start up or 40 minutes of driving ) to the full mark after fill up. The truck is always fueled with Cheveron "regular" gas. What could be the problems ... float, sensor, fuel gauge? and how to check them?
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We have a 2007 Toyota Prius, the fuel gauge seems to not run properly, It shows empty after about 330 miles but there is still 6 gallons left in the tank, as when I fill it at 1 bar it takes about 6 gallons of tank to fill it?
Will we be able to drive even though gauge is showing empty but there is half a tank of gas still in the car?
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I have a 2009 Prius. Last summer I noticed that the outside temperature gauge was not working properly. I asked at the wonderful dealership I go to and no one knew anything.
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I have a 2004 Pontiac Montana with about 107500 kms on it (VIN: 1GMDX03E24D183870) and the coolant temperature gauge is not working properly. Sometimes when I start my van, the temp gauge is pinned at MAX temp and stays there the whole trip...other times it's pinned at MIN temp...and other times it seems to work OK.
When it's pinned at MAX temp, I check the actual temp that the on-board computer is seeing, by using my OBDII scan tool...and I get about 87 degrees C when I'm halfway into my trip (i.e. - when the van is at operating temp), which seems OK. All the other analog gauges are working perfectly.
I read a lot about the issues with "connector C305" on the Internet on the Montana vans...could this be the problem?
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My 2008 F150 Super Crew Door locks use to work like this, When you pushed the unlock button on the key fob once it unlocked the driver door only then if you pressed it again it unlocked the other 3 doors. A few months ago it started unlocking all 4 doors with one press. The owners manual does not show this as a option and when I had it at the dealer for brakes they tried to get it back the way it was but could not figure it out either.
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I have a 2008 F150 Super Crew 4x4 when you press the unlock button on the remote all the doors unlock, it use to be one push for drivers door and two would unlock all doors. I think the problem started after I had the battery changed out, how to get it back to one push for drivers door only?
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I have a 2004 F150 XLT 5.4 L 79,000 miles. Yesterday i was driving home turned a corner and the low fuel light came on and the fuel gauge is well below empty. I had approx 1/2 tank of fuel when it happened. I have since filled tank all the way but the gauge will not move and low fuel light stays on. Everything else is working fine! I have never run the truck low enough on fuel to make the dummy light come on.....
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Last spring i purchased an 08 600hl. This is my first winter with this car and I have come across an issue. when it is extremely cold like it has been for the past few days the heating system for the interior of the car does not seem to be working properly. when i warm up the car and put on the heat it blows cold air. It is only when I am driving that the heat comes on. While i am driving at a moderate speed the heat works fine. However, when i drive slow, such as driving around a parking lot and its only running on hybrid battery power, it starts to blow cold air again. When i put the car in park and its only running off the battery i only blows cold air even on the "HI" temperature. I have the rev the engine to get the heat to kick in and then it will stay on. This is and issue or a normal behavior for this car.
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How do you know if the inverter coolant pump/reservoir is bad after the recall was performed?Since it doesn't produce any codes but can reduce the electric-drive if getting too hot, how do you convince Toyota to give it a second look?
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My 07 Santa Fe fuel gauge doesn't seem to be working. what can the problem be??
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I have an 08 s-crew and latley the gas gauge doesnt seem to read correctly some times. Once waiting for the wife to get in and the low fuel alarm chimed and the gauge read empty. I just filled the tank. What could cause this?
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I've had this problem a while but now i want to get around to fixing it.. my boost gauge is always at 0 now and sometimes when i drive the car it starts working but it starts like sticking... like when i didn't have my chip it would go up and down really fast between 10 - 15psi... i heard from a friend that you can take it apart and re-adjust some screws or something so it works like a charm... right now its just like frozen at 0 psi when i drive it doesnt go down or up.
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I have a 2003 Impala with about 122,000 miles on it. On my recent fill up I by accident put in mid grade over the normal unleaded, now I now that won't cause any engine issues that I am aware of, but after doing this fill up my gas gauge is not working properly. When I start the car in the morning the gauge will go to where it should given the mileage I have driven to this point but as I drive the car the gauge goes up to almost full then down some but never back to where it should be. what might be causing this floating incorrect reading by my gas gauge.
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We have an 04 GX-470. Most of the time the fuel gauge and the range readout work OK. However, sometimes, the fuel gauge works, but the range shows 0 miles, or they both don't work - fuel gauge shows empty and range = 0. My wife says she thinks she's seen the gauge = empty but the range still showing xxx miles - I haven't seen that.
We've been to 2 different Lexus dealers, paid for diagnostics at both and gotten no fix. In fact, they have both said they can't find anything wrong.
To my way of thinking, these would both get their initial information from the same source - some sort of sender unit on the fuel tank. However, as both gauges do not always go out together, I'm inclined to think that this probably isn't the cause. I would think that the range readout comes from some calculations done by the onboard computer.
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Changed fuel relay and fuel pump and still not getting fuel.
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We bought this car a month ago, 2007 US touring model. It had a 15A fuse in the Gauge position (spec calls for 10A there) when we bought it. As of last week it is blowing a lot.
What we've noticed:
- First time it happened I noticed my signals weren't working. After 5 minutes of driving I pulled over and turned the car off and on. At that point the Combination Meter went blank. After getting home I found the fuse blown. Replaced it with a 10A fuse, and that blew right away when starting the car. Replaced it with a 15A fuse and it worked for a few trips.
- While I was away for a week, my wife replaced the fuse 3 times while it blew away from home. (she estimates every third trip) She has found it seems to happen when putting the car in reverse.
- Today the car is working fine, and I can't replicate the problem.
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Fuel pump in my Volvo 940 has been replaced twice. Since then, my fuel gauge has not worked right and I have had to pump gas about every 120 miles so that the fuel pump would work right. I would fill the tank, and 120 miles (about 5 gallons) later the fuel gauge would indicate about 1/4 tank of gas left. That's when the fuel pump begins to mis-behave. If I make a sharp turn, it would stopped pumping for about 2-3 seconds. If I continue to drive at that level of gas. I can avoid all these problems by keeping the tank at least "half-full", that is, by pumping every 120 miles. The car was totaled by a hail storm and I bought it back for $84. I like to operate the vehicle for as long as I can, one day at a time.
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2007 Ford F150, Remote starter no longer works. after pressing remote (4) times. 3 with horn blast , it is to start. the lights flash, interior dash lights go on as if trying to start. It does this every 10 seconds or so till I hit brake. If I use the remote with the key inserted it starts right up. I had just replaced the battery previously.
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