Looking for a link for a novice to see how to replace the front struts on my 07? I'm thinking I'm capable of getting them out, but will take them to a shop to compress the spring and do the switch.
View 3 Repliesprobably need a right front strut, but have a number of questions about a remanufactured stut specific to my phaeton:
1. are the left and right struts the same? different oem part numbers, but some remanufactured struts say they replace either side numbers?
2. my 04 has had the struts replaced due to one strut having failed, are the remanufactured struts all configured to fit the new replacement struts (all say "04-06 model years, but no mention of early 04 struts)?
3. are the w12 struts different from the v8 struts, i haven't seen part numbers but i note there is are few dollars difference in oem cost and there is a different "box" to check in ordering from a vw supplier for the v8 strut as oppoaed to the w12 strut. (simply, will the v8 strut fit a w12)?
I've just begun to replace my front struts (Monroe quick strut pre-assembled). The thing is, the top bearing plate bolts and the lower mounting point are out of alignment by 90 degrees. The included directions say they can be rotated but gives no procedure and they do not just "turn" easily obviously. How to rotate them to fit??
View 3 Replies2008 F-150 2WD
How tight should the wheel bearing retaining nut (sealed bearing hubs) be torqued when replacing the front rotors?
Is there a spec, or just real good and tight since the bearings are sealed units.....
My '07 had the check engine come in the other day, engine misfire. I took it to the dealer hoping it was a coil, due to the 100,000 mi warranty from Ford I was hoping would be covered. Sadly, and of course, all coils tested fine, turns out 2 plugs were bad. They replaced all 8 plugs, plus a plug boot. Not one plug broke (truck had 80k on it) so no extra cost there. So much more, but peace of mind that all the plugs are new one piece plugs is great. He recommended that they should be replaced every 60k to avoid any issues.
View 7 RepliesI'm working on a 2007 F150 V6 with a 4 speed automatic.. which seems to be a 4R70W. It has 36,xxx miles on it and the transmission tailshaft is cracked by the mount and leaking fluid.
The tailshaft can be replaced by itself without disassembling and removing the whole transmission right? The part number/Ford Engineering number on it is "RF-F3LP-7A040-AA" and it says 42A below that. Can I look for any tailshaft or just this number? F3 is a 1993 number isn't it? I don't know the length of it but it doesn't have a hole for a speedo cable.
I noticed my 2009 AWL Santa Fe (3.3L if it maters) had been 'bouncing' in the front end...so i brought it in to have it looked at.
The dealer here has advised me both front struts are leaking, and its still safe to drive.
This car bounces a lot, but on city roads, its not bad...On highway, you hit a little hump in the road, and it seems to bounce A LOT...for a bit of time, then settles. City driving isn't' that bad, its the highway that's freaky.
This coming weekend, I'm going camping, and tow 3500lbs with my Santa Fe, i have a weight distribution system/bars on the trailer to the vehicle. so it moves some of the weight to the front.
I have 2007 Camry CE, 4 cyl, 102,500 miles. The rubber boots on both front and rear struts can be easily lifted with a screw driver to reveal the shiny shaft. Strut seems be pass the 'fast brake' test (no bounciness). There is oily residue on the strut body. Is that normal? If replacement is needed, should I go with Monroe or other brand. I want the original Camry ride.
Brake pads seem to have 3/16"-1/4" thickness left. All equipment is original.
I have a 2007 Ford F-150 SuperCrew Lariat (with Sunroof) that the Front Interior Dome Lights are not working in. I mention the Sunroof because there is a switch to operate the sunroof in the same panel as the front dome lights. The Sunroof switch works just fine though.
However, the back dome light does work. I would've thought these were on the same line but my thinking is probably wrong. So far I've pulled the front panel where the dome lights are located and checked the bulbs. The filaments are not broken at all and the bulbs seem to be good. I then went hunting for the Fuse box and looked through the user manual to see which fuse corresponds to those front lights. However, I've been unable to determine which fuse it is.
So I guess the questions I have are:
1.) Why the front dome lights would NOT be working and the rear dome lights are? Are these not on the same line?
2.) Which fuse corresponds to the front dome lights?
3.) What relay corresponds to the front dome lights?
4.) Do I need to disconnect the battery before messing with any of these fuses or relays?
Troubleshooting steps at this point?
2007 Ford Fx4 with 6 inch suspension lift. Just rebuilt front suspension. I Had bad upper ball joints and one of the hubs was bad. Also had a bad tie rod end on one side. The tires began to wear excessively on the inside and quickly degraded.
I figured since I was in there, I would just change everything. I replaced upper control arms, lower ball joints, stabilizer bar links, strut assemblies, and inner and outer tie rods on both sides. Obviously everything is much better. But...
On test driving and running short errands near the house, it seems like I can still sense a slight thumping/clunking or bounce from the right side at slow speeds at times. It is hard to describe because there isn't really a sound associated with it. It is not constant; it feels a bit like a ball joint just starting to go. I cannot identify it with any of the new parts, they all check out and nuts are tight, etc.
I have not gotten an alignment yet. Getting new tires and alignment Saturday. Tires are in pretty bad shape. But, alignment isn't too badly off and at slow speeds around the neighborhood its more of a bouncing after a road seam or when accelerating from a stop, etc.
when I was doing the work, one of the half shafts had more play than the other. It was easier to move out of the way to install the shocks and lower ball joints. I could easily bend it over past the stabilizer bar link and use the link to hold it out of the way. Is this normal? I have never owned a vehicle with IFS and CVs before. Could the bouncing/clunking be caused by a worn CV joint, even in 2wd?
My 07 SCREW 5.4L 4x4 has 77,000 miles and has a high pitch whining noise on front right side of engine. Sounds worse in the cold,increases with RPMs.
View 5 RepliesMY '07 SuperCab just started making a strange rhythmic sound as I drive. It is coming from the drivers side front wheel area. It is like a short creaking sound. It stays the same if I am turning the tires. Seems to go away if I put the brakes on hard, but I slow down so much I am not sure. Front CV Joint?
View 1 RepliesThe other day my 2003 Subaru Forester was getting its oil changed and when it was done the mechanic informed me that my struts were leaking and needed to be replaced. He didn't seem to think it was urgent or anything. He mentioned something about roll overs and the wearing of the tires, but I'm not entirely sure what this means for the car. It has 140K on it, and I drive it a lot on the high way. I'm also planning to go on a trip in Mid July that's about a thousand mile drive. So, how soon should this be done? What do leaking struts mean for a car?
View 14 RepliesI've purchased my 2006 Sonata (LX) 2 years ago and noticed a very bouncy feeling when I drive. When I hit potholes and bumps I can feel the impact on the lower body, and when turning, hitting a bump would pull the car slightly in one direction. I've read through the forums that this might be normal (?) for 2006 Sonata's? I wanted to make sure if this is common occurrence and if changing the struts would make any difference. Here are pictures of my front and rear struts......
View 19 RepliesLast night, I replaced both front struts with Monroe complete sets (new springs, mounts, boots, struts, etc) and I had my front rotors smoothed out. That cleared up about 75% of the noises coming from the front of my car Except for one.
Whenever I'm braking, there is a noise coming from my front left wheel. It's not a brake squeal, but more like a creaking sounds that comes around with each rotation of the wheel. It slows down with the car, and I can make it last longer by doing a slow roll with the brakes one. So when I'm fast it sounds like "Crk! Crk! Crk!" When I'm going slow it's "Creeeeeak... Creeeeeeak... Creeeeeak..."
Last night, I also replaced the sway bar link on that side. The brakes are smooth and the tires were balanced a couple months ago (no steering wobbles at any speed)
I need a new engine for my 2004 SOHC 5.4 3v F150. Without sounding like a dumb question, what engines can I use? All I've heard about this engine is that it was a horrible one. I can vouch for that personally. I will be looking for a crate engine soon.
View 2 RepliesI'm looking for a replacement motor for a 5.4 08 vin v. Do the 9-10 motor with the same vin code v. I know intake is different but the heads are the same.
View 6 RepliesLooking for info on these replacements and is there any manuals out there to assist with the process?
View 1 RepliesI have a new style 2004 F150 XLT supercrew with a 4.6. Well, I just hit 300,00 miles earlier this week. The truck has performed pretty much flawlessly over the years (and still does). I've replaced front hubs, IWE's, brakes, fluids, etc, but have NEVER opened up the engine. Is it time to replace the timing chain?
First thought is ,yes, like 50,000 miles ago, but... It has some dents and dings and the rust is getting to it. There is 300,000 on the transmission also... Virtually no residual value- If it strands me on the road, it's time for a new truck.
On the other hand, it only burns a little over a quart at 3000 mile change intervals, the transmission seems strong. I just shampooed the cloth interior and detailed it. The thing looks great from the vantage point of the steering wheel.
No engine issues at all- no rattling, etc.
Looking for any pictures or directions on replacing the intake manifold on the 2004 F150, 5.4. Got all the parts with the pulgs, and ignition coils.
View 6 RepliesYesterday I had to jump start my truck twice, after driving 200 miles then this morning, it still wouldn't start. Likely time for new battery being on original battery since new. Before I go over to local Sears, checking out the Diehards. Any particular brands?
View 5 Replies