Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2007 - Changing Rear Differential Oil?
Feb 5, 2013
I have a 2007 ford f150 FX2 5.4 with 3.55 limited slip rear end. It has 68,000 miles and would like to change the rear differential oil. I have read and I know the oil it requires is 75w-140 plus the friction modifier. I would like to use mobile one. But was reading and the mobile one sites states that is already has friction modifiers. Is that ok to use on my truck? Using mobile one and not adding the extra modifiers?
Also some other brands say they have friction modifiers as well. Should I use mobile one and add extra friction modifier or just go with what it has already?
Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube 75W-140 LS contains special friction modifiers designed for limited slip-type differentials. In most applications, the addition of special LS (limited slip) additives is not required. For axles requiring the highest level of limited-slip performance, OEM specific LS additives can be added to this fluid.
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I got a new to me truck. It's a 2004 F150 Lariat 4x4 with the 5.4L. It's got a whine that I believe is coming from the rear differential. I'm going to change the fluid. My axle code is 26 which I believe is 3.73 non-limited slip. My owners manual says to use 75w-90 but I've seen a lot of posts on here that say to use 75w-140. Which is right or better? Also, is my rear differential the 9.75"?
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Alright so about a few weeks ago I started hearing what sounded like it was time for new brake pads. But the other day I turned the corner and my neighbor came up to me and said he heard my truck making a metal on metal type noise. So I said okay fml, took it to a local mechanic.
Called me today and said the brakes are fine but it's rear differential, he said they put the truck on the lift and used the stethoscope and heard a metal noise inside the rear differential and said that the fluid in there was very metallic.
I bought this truck about 7 months ago from the dealership. It has a total 90,000 miles on it. What does it look like this could cost me worst comes to worst?
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I have a 2006 fx4. And I am about it change the rear differential fluid. i want to know if i have a a limited slip differential.
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I have a 2009 f150 platinum and have been told both sides of the story now... that the front differential is sealed and need not be changed, and also that it is unsealed and can be changed. While asking this question I might as well lump in the rear differential as well. Are they both sealed or unsealed and need to be changed???
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I am getting a little frustrated with a leak on my rear differential. The leak is on the front of differential rear-end just behind the four bolts you take off to remove the driveshaft. When you take the driveshaft out, there is a single bolt and the seal behind that is leaking. Here is my dilemma, I called my local ford dealership to find out what the torque rating on that bolt is so when I replace the seal I don't over-tighten. He told me there is no torque rating on it because I have to tighten, measure, tighten, measure the bolt. I was lost, I didn't have a clue what he was talking about.
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I have a 07 with the 5.4 engine and it has started to jerk or miss sometimes when I'm pulling my trailer. I'm thinking about changing the plugs, but the dealership is telling me they will break off in the head.
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My 2004 Ford F150 only has 20,000 miles on it but makes a shudder from stop turning left or right. I asked the dealership about it and was told that it was likely the clutch pack in the rear differential sticking. I was told I could try changing out the fluid while also adding a few ounces of some special lubricant. But, they said it wasn't a guaranteed fix. Apparently, they have tried this fluid change and drive the vehicle in figure 8's trying to get the lubricant between the plates. They also said that this was a known problem to Ford. Lastly, I was told it wouldn't hurt anything to keep driving it. I checked some other online forums for Ford F150 owners and this does seem to be a recurring problem. I'm thinking about having the clutch pack replaced but obviously hate to spend the money if I don't have to.
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It may sound silly, but can I lift my 04 explorer by the rear differential to change brakes etc? I have NOT had a Independant suspension vehicle prior to this and dont want to mess up anything. If I cannot use that point to lift it, where is a point to lift it using a floor jack so I can service the rear of the vehicle after I place it on jack stands?
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Working on a 2004 Ford F150 4.6L. No 4x4. Replaced both IWE front actuators. (Neither one would hold vacuum). Still no 4x4. I realize I have vacuum issues and may be excessive wear on gear teeth of the front wheel bearings. The issue that really bothers me is the front differential. Having placed the truck on jack stands and running in 4x4 should both front wheels be turning ? The right front wheel turns and the left front does not move. Is this normal or should I pull the front differential cover off ?
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My front differential is leaking. Are there any special Ford tools required to replace the seal? Or is it simply bolt (and fluid) removal, seal replacement, fill with new fluid. Any tips or heads-up on this?
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2006 F150, SuperCrew with 5.4
I just replaced the firewall actuator valve for the hubs, and went to try out the 4 wheel drive. The hubs engage and lock to the axle shaft, the transfer case engages and locks to the front driveline, but the front differential isn't doing anything. Is there an actuator for the front or did something break inside?
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how would I go about lowering my truck in the rear a few inches cheaply? There isnt much out there that I can find.
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I have a (new to me about 40 days ago) 2004 F250 SD Lariat Crew Cab 4x4 6.0 diesel. 137,xxx miles.
I thought Id gotten a good "deal" on this truck when Id bought it however the last 40 days have been very expensive. The "stealership" I bought the truck from was on a 35mph rd and I couldn't test drive it at highway speeds. So I bought the thing "knowing" there were a few "minor" sniggles wrong... however once about 15 miles from the dealership/stealership and on a highway, the real fun began.
I had a terrible shake, shimmy and groan/whine at speed no matter if the truck was in gear or not.
Since that time ive repaired/replaced:
1) Both front hubs/bearings
2) Both front hub locks
3) Both front brakes and calipers
4) 4 New Hankook tires
5) Ford Dealership Diesel engine service/lube (essentially an expensive oil change)
6) Ford Dealership transmission service
7) Drained (with a siphon) and refilled the rear differential + OEM Ford friction mod.
Ive eliminated problem after problem after problem with this thing.... and yes, the truck does get better with each repair HOWEVER.... Ive still had this groan/whine from the rear end of the truck and a rumble from starting at a dead stop despite my changing out the gear oil in the rear diff.
So I take it today to a local shop (that I trust/sort of) for a 2nd opinion. Their technician takes the truck out for a test run and comes back in 10 min saying he has no clue but the sound was annoying and he'd need to put it on a lift if I could wait.
I saw the truck go up... a few parts get wiggled, some head scratching, saw the truck go down, watched another tech jump in and 2 techs run it out for a test drive.
When it came back, I watched the truck go up again on the lift... this time however they just lifted the rear and with one guy in a pit the other revved the motor. I watched as the wheels spun. A few minutes later both techs came in and said my "rear differential was shot".
They pulled the diff mag plug which was caked in metal deposits. It looked the same when I pulled it off the first time and did the fluid change (yes i cleaned off the plug before putting it back). I had seen differentials (in the past) have deposits like that before on plugs but the units were still good and such deposits were considered casualty of wear and tear.
However im being told the rear end is shot.. When I inquired about just replacing the internals of the diff, it was a simple bolt in/bolt out job.
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Looking to change out my front differential cover tomorrow, cover is pitted, rusted, corroded, and leaking at the seals. While under there I want to inspect the vent for the axle and differential (and replace if it's clogged - which I believe is leading to the seal leaking). Looking for info about the vent tube location on the front axle? Thought I read somewhere it was on the cover itself, turns out that's a negative.
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how hard is it to replace the U-joint at the differential side of the shaft on an 04 FX4? Any special tools needed? At low speed (5-10mph) sounds like someone tapping on the rear end with a ball peen hammer, I guess it is the u-joints.
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On my 07' I bought it home mid AUG. It has been getting much worse to a point there is a rear driveline vibration at all speeds above 40 and up to 70. I used to change intensity whether you are on or off the gas, and would almost vanish if in neutral. However now it is all the time.
I cannot feel any play on the u-joints, the yoke has a little play in the xfer case but is is normal like on most other trucks I have owned, and the pinion flange is nice and tight. Could this be **tight** ujoints or the driveshaft itself? It looks rusty, but there are no dents on it.
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I have a 07 f150 harley edition.. Here's my issue. When I decelerate going down hill. Feels like my rear end wobbles. It will do it if I decelerate and turn the overdrive off or if I put it in 2nd when decelerating and when I accelerate again it goes away..
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I have a 2011 F350 SRW with 3.55 differential. I'm was going to change the fluid, however, what type do I use? The manual calls for 75-90 with the Dana rear end or 75-140. How do I know which rear end I have? Is there a build sheet with code on the vehicle anywhere?
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I have an 07 King Ranch. I need to remove the rubber step off the rear bumper to paint it. Due to a typical Ford paint job it is rusting already. Can I just pull up on it ? If so should I wait for a warm day to prevent breaking the clips?
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My truck is a 2008 F250 6.4 Powerstroke 4x4 King Ranch, CrewCab, Shortbed.
I don't know which rear axle ratio it has - maybe someone can help me. the tires mounted are 275/60R17 and in fifth gear (TC locked) the engine has 2000rpm @ 70mph. I think it is a bit to much so I want to install a kit with and lower ratio. I pull trailers just sometimes and here in germany these only have 3,5tons max weight. So I think I don't need this power at 70mph. 1750rpm would be enough. How do I have to modify the front axle ratio if I get a lower-ratio-rear-axle?
I want to lower the fuel consumption. After some modifications, the truck needs round about 12-13L/100km (18-20mpg) and I think it is possible to lower this as bit.
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