My 07 Lariat cab corner is bubbling. I really think this is a paint adhering defect as there was no rust underneath, just bare metal. It has now started to rust where the the metal is exposed. How to tackle this? I was contemplating paint matched linex all the way around the bottom, or taking to a body shop which would be expensive.
View 13 RepliesI have intermittent metal on metal grinding noise. Seems to happen when I am at highway speed. Seems to go away when I put it on 4 wheel drive or slow way down. On one occasion though, the grinding noise did not stop even after putting on 4 wheel drive - had to stop completely before it went away (did not come back after I drove off again). Diagnostics so far....
Unhooked the vacuum lines on passenger side actuator and hooked up vacuum gauge. Vacuum held at 20 psi and drops and raises slightly as the truck is being revved. Takes about 10 seconds for vacuum to drop to zero once truck is stopped. Putting it on 4 wheel drive drops it to zero immediately. Exact same scenario on the passenger side.
This leads me to believe my IWE solenoid is ok. So also my check valves. Next opportunity I get, I will raise one wheel, remove the vacuum line on that wheel and apply vacuum with my pump. Want to see if it will turn my half shaft.
2004 F150 FX4 ....
Slowed down to turn a corner and the strangest, loudest, noise - a loud screaming whine that lastest like 5 seconds. Also perhaps a spin noise and a little bit of a thump like going back in gear. Went out to drive it again, and again it did it but only once. I then drove it hard, fast and slow, in 4 wheel drive, out of 4 wheel drive, stop and go and it has not done it again.
View 6 RepliesAlright so about a few weeks ago I started hearing what sounded like it was time for new brake pads. But the other day I turned the corner and my neighbor came up to me and said he heard my truck making a metal on metal type noise. So I said okay fml, took it to a local mechanic.
Called me today and said the brakes are fine but it's rear differential, he said they put the truck on the lift and used the stethoscope and heard a metal noise inside the rear differential and said that the fluid in there was very metallic.
I bought this truck about 7 months ago from the dealership. It has a total 90,000 miles on it. What does it look like this could cost me worst comes to worst?
I have a 2007 hyundai sonata, this car is my daily driver. I put 180 miles on it a day around trip. Currently has 180,200 miles on it. Last Friday on my trip home when i turned right I heard a metal on metal sound. I slowed down went straight and it went away. Talked to a few people and I think it may be the wheel bearing. Even if I hit a road reflector it starts up. It's the front left wheel. Get on the breaks it goes away.
So my question is... Wheel bearing??? And can I replace the whole hub and fix the problem or do I have to try and press the bearing out?
I have a 2011 Santa Fe AWD Limited. 90,000 miles. I have a strange sound I need identifying. At first I thought the sound was my AC depressurizing, but it's not that. It sounds similar, but has a faint metal-on-metal jingle sound to it, like something is rubbing or something is rotating and intermittently hitting something just slightly. The mechanic went in to change the water pump because it was leaking, and he thought that the water pump when rotating was rubbing because the rubber ring/gasket was failing, therefore making that sound. Not it. Tired rotated and new brake pads put on. Still there. To be clear, the mechanic never said he heard the sound. I just told him about it.
I can hear the sound when I turn the car on and put it in reverse start backing up. I can hear it when I let off the brake (driving and in park), which lead me to believe that it could have been the pressure in the Master Cylinder or ABS. I don't know now because it does it intermittently when I am driving down the road with no brake applied. When I park, I put the car in Park, get off the brake and just listen. And I can hear it. When it is in park it is more rhythmic, with two or three second breaks in between. kshhh kshhh kshhh kshhh. (I hope you like my poor attempts at sound effects.)
Is it the ABS system? Don't tell me it's transmission related. I just bought this car (used at 87,000 miles) and already had the struts done, the water pump and drive belt done. For what it's worth, this car's passenger and back seats vibrate at 60+. Not sure if that has anything to do with this sound, but thought I would mention it. New struts and tire rotation did nothing.
The metal key that comes out of the Key Fob is broken, is it replaceable from anywhere other than Toyota? The key fob is perfectly fine no issues with it.
View 1 RepliesI just traded in my 2006 Prius with a 2013. I live in the country and always have to deal with mice. The 2013 has so many exposed wires whereas the old one did not. Is there any suggestion on sealing them and creating some barrier. I'll send a picture if needed but one circuit board has lots of tiny and tasty looking wires on top. It doesn't seem like much protection but also looks incredibly fragile.
View 6 RepliesI am looking to swap 2007 vin 5 to 2008 vin V 5.4. Just wondering what would need to be changer? Would the ECM need to be replaced? I believe the vin V is flex fuel.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2011 GLS 2.4 and my steering wheel seems to be... stiff. It varies with each turning revolution I make, as well. When going around a corner, normally the wheel will straighten itself out but it just sticks and you have to fight to get it back. Is it a common problem? I am assuming it is the power steering, could it happen to be anything else?
View 5 RepliesI thought i heard this yesterday when i left work but i was tired and said its in my head, THEN i go to leave right now and sure enough its a real sound, you can hear it very well through the front grill and then if you turn the volume up you can hear a ticking sound ever half a second or so, it also speeds up when i was pulling on the throttle cable. And after the truck fully warms up it goes away.......
View 14 RepliesI replace my brake pads and rotors in the fall of 2015 with EBC parts. Now almost 13,000 miles later, I started hearing grinding and metal-on-metal contact in the front. So I went out and got PowerStop pads to replace the EBC (EBC had way too much brake dust). I took off the front wheels and noticed that the DF pads had about 1/32 left on them, ok I guess its time to change them out. Onto the PF pads, I find that there is almost no material left, in fact I could scrap off what was left of the material. I decided to do a rotation while I am at it and noticed that the rear brake pads on both sides look like I never used them!! Is it really that possible to have 2 stuck calipers, both on the rear at the same time?
View 2 RepliesWhat we have is a 2011 F-350 with the ambulance package (obviously) and it has started making a very annoying sound from the front end. It has been into two different Ford Dealerships and they have not been able to remedy this issue. What happens is, when we are backing and turning, the front end makes a bad metal on metal grinding noise. When going straight down the road no issue just turning while backing. I know this is an ambulance and has the ambulance package but I think from the cab forward should just be all ford right?
View 2 RepliesI have an '02 Taurus. For the last year or so it has intermittently produced a metal on metal grinding noise while failing to start up. I'm told this is due to teeth being missing on the flywheel between the starter and the transmission. It's taken as many as six tries to get the car going. But the car has always started in the end.
My questions are: Is the problem flywheel worth replacing at this point at this price? Is it likely to fail totally any time soon?
Also, might the March '09 replacement starter be implicated?
My father's 1997 F150 with the 4.6 two wheel drive, has me stumped again. I have a lot of mechanic knowledge but this one has got me wondering whats going on. Here is the run down. When you are driving down the road, it rides just fine and makes no noises from 0-20 MPH, after about 25 to 35 mph it makes like a metal on metal noise that is coming from the rear, and forces the truck to slow down, when you try to accelerate through this problem it has a bad bang and it wont allow you to speed up anymore, it does not seem like a brake issue (but I could be wrong) since it does not actually pull to one side or the other.
It seems like an equal force trying to stop the truck. I have heard rear ends that were going out and they make clunk noises or whirring noises etc, but its still some what driveable. I have checked the rear end oil and it does have oil in it, and its probably about an inch from the full level (but that shouldnt cause this issue im sure). My father wants a definite answer before we start tearing this thing apart to try and fix it. Since its mostly used to take trash off, and also get the kids down the dirt road to the bus stop.
I just had a new evaporator installed in our 03 Gx 470, and now it is making a gurgling, bubbling type sound while the air conditioner runs, it almost sounds like air is in the system.
View 2 RepliesJust last night, out of the blue, I've got an odd rumble at idle. The noise goes away under load and any time the rpm's are up over ~1300. It sounds like metal on metal vibration, but I don't see any loose exhaust parts.
I've looked at threads saying possibly a broken flex plate. Other than the noise, would there be any other symptoms? I don't notice any loss of power. I suppose I could pull the inspection cover and take a look, but I don't have any experience with auto tranny's and don't really know what I'm looking for.
Getting the RV ready to go for the summer, and no a/c. I started to add freon, and found the leak right away.
It's on the 3/4" pipe that goes right over the upper radiator hose; obviously rubbing metal to metal caused the pinhole. Now I know where that mystery green snot came from all over my radiator hose coming back from Yellowstone last fall.
First thought was to replace the entire pipe. There's an easy threaded connector on the upper end, but way down on the compressor is a strange fitting that looks like a triangle stuck against a cube. I can't see how I'd get a wrench in there very easy anyway. What is that fitting?
I bought a Dorman 3/4" repair kit, but until it arrives in the mail I don't know if I've got enough straight pipe to work with. Do I need to add oil as well as freon once I charge the system again?
I've had transmission issues with my truck that the dealers can't seem to duplicate. The truck makes a metal on metal screech when downshifting from 5th to 4th and 4th to 3rd on occasion. The two dealers claim they cannot duplicate the issue and there's no CEL so there's nothing they can do. The shifting is also super slow between gears and regularly hangs in 4th until I let off the pedal for a good two or three seconds. All gear changes are slow.
Now the truck is exhibiting a new issue. When coming to a stop, a second after stopping the truck faintly jerks forward. Almost like the torque converter is not fully unlocked.
I have a 2007 camry LE with 60,000 miles. About 600 miles prior to the next due oil change, I started seeing a flashing oil pan sign on the left corner of the dashboard while braking (only while braking).
I did not figure out the reason and might have run another 100 miles before taken to the dealer. Dealer found no oil on dipstick. He says the engine might be burning oil and I might end up spending few thousand dollars in that case. He gave me a list of things to do for $1200 unrelated to the incident (break pads etc). I declined and got the oil changed.
He asked me to bring the car back in after 500 miles to check if the oil stays. There has been no leak. Now I have driven 150 miles and the maintenance required sign comes up. I have three questions:
(1) Can this maintenance required sign be related to the incident or related to the regular oil change schedule
(2) Could I have damaged my engine? If so, how to find out
(3) Why could the engine oil run out before the next scheduled maintenance?
Is it possible the technician might have not filled it up? (yesterday I checked the oil level (after 150 miles) and the level is well above the max needed).
Just came back from a ride and since it's getting pretty warm here I decided to drive with open windows. At low speed I noticed a unusual squeak coming from the rear passenger wheel when I got over small potholes. This part of the car seems to shake really fast a few time before settling. I can also hear a drum like vibration in the car coming from that corner. I can feel an unusual bounce which take time to settle when it happen. I'm no expert but from what I read the usual suspect should be either a defective shock of broken control arm ? I'll get a nearby garage to take a look next week. Gotta admit, like some members pointed out, I'm surprised to see those kind of issues on a car which didn't even broke the 45000 miles mark yet... And that's for a car that I take really good care of and not used as a daily driver.
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