Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2007 5.5L - Upper Engine Rebuild After Oil Change
Jun 25, 2011
We operate a garage, did an oil change on a 2007 F150 with a 5.4L, with 70,000 km. A few days later, began to make noise. Owner took it to the dealer, the dealer told him it needed an upper engine rebuild. A technician at the dealership said the oil filter came apart and caused the engine damage. Scored cam guides and cam shaft damage. Installed OEM recommended, Pennzoil 5w20, and Pennzoil PZ42, Purolator manufactured. No loss of oil, proper quantity of oil installed. Sent the filter to Purolator for testing, came back 100% within specifications, no missing parts, gaskets present intact. What would cause this damage?
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So last night my trans have out, going up a slight grade, all of a sudden the engine revved and I had no more 3rd gear. I've done some research, looks like rebuilding it is the only option. I've got my Mustang GT to drive in the meantime, so I am thinking of rebuilding it myself. The truck is an '07 F150 5.4 2WD.
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Pulled transmission out and it needs to be rebuilt front to back. My motor is generally stock but I'm rolling on 37" tyres so I'm thinking a stall converter and a "performance" rebuild. Looked at "Monster in a box" from Monster Transmissions. Truck is used at tymes to haul cement and heavy bed loads.
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I just bought an '04 F150 from a friend. It has 250K miles on it. When I got the truck there were no tapping noises coming from the engine. Now that I changed the oil, at start up till about 5 miles down the road, I hear the tapping noise. I put Castrol high mileage 5W-20 in it. Could it just be the oil I'm using or something more expensive?
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I'm trying to remove the upper control arm on a 2004 F-150 2WD. I took the wheel off, and it looks like I can't get the bolts off that attach to the frame off without taking out the shock and "coil over"? Is this the case, or is there another way to do this?
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I have passat V6 3.0 lt, coolant receiver got broken and engine overheated. After replacement of the receiver, engine was opened for inspection and head gasket were replaced also. Engine then rebuilt but was misfiring/engine rattling!
Took it to car dealer workshop for inspection, electrical system were reported fine but two pistons/champers at least in the engine not delivering required power!
The statement is not certain and only a full overhaul to the engine might sort it out.
- Note:
- engine head was faced/skimmed before reinstated!!
- A piston block were found loose- not sure how!
- engine milage over 280k km
Would it worth to replace the engine completely with used one or even R36 if fits?
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I have a 2007 f-150 4X4 with bad upper ball joints, should I replace the lowers also or just the uppers and how do I check lowers?
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I have to replace the upper control arm on my 05 f150 4x4. I've been looking around the site and didn't see anything. Is there directions posted anywhere on the procedure? or if the strut assembly has to be removed? If so do I have to compress the spring first?
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I am in the process of installing a 6" pro comp lift on my 04 supercrew 4x4. Things were going good until I got to the upper strut bolts. Trying to remove the 3 nuts, one came off on the passenger side. The other 2 just spin, the bolt and nut. Haven't tried the drivers side yet. The only idea I had was making a notch in the top with a dremel tool and small cutting wheel for a screwdriver but my dremel tool smoked..
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Today I decided to do some maintenance on the truck as it needed an oil change and some other unrelated misc stuff.
1. I seafoamed the engine thoroughly. I bought two cans of this stuff, half of a can went into the fuel, another half can in through the brake booster vacuum hose, and I dumped a full can of into the oil. Took it for a 30 minute drive, let the ol' gal smoke as it usually does on a seafoam, and then changed the oil. No noises, I noticed immediately improvement in acceleration.
2. Upon intial startup after the oil change, I thought the motor was coming apart. It was only for about two seconds, (i was counting to make sure) if it didn't have oil pressure and no noise by 3, I was shutting it off. It hasn't done it since.
Is it possible I just knocked some crap loose in the heads causing the oil drain a lot faster into the pan than I expected? I'll try it again in a few hours after everything has cooled off and oil has drained back into the pan, but I wanna make sure I didn't damage anything. Still drives good, no problems, no noises since.
The last oil change I did, I didn't do a Seafoam, but I figured with winter coming it's a good idea to get her running in top form. I used Pennzoil Platinum 5w20, with a Motorcraft oil filter for those wondering.
Truck has 133K on the clock, and it's had the slight cam phaser tick since I've purchased it, no other problems. I bought it almost a year ago.
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Ok,..I've got a late model '04 5.4 150, (some parts matched an '05). About 4 mos ago I noticed a loss of upper end power, no cel, but the temp gauge only went up halfway and stayed there. eventually got a code saying temp sending unit (under manifold) was bad. I replaced the sending unit, gauge started working, no cel, but still some power loss.
After a while, cel again says rt bank faulty knock sensor, pull manifold, replace both, plus changed all 4 oxygen sensors. Last few months no cel, but still some loss of power, local trusted mechanic, thinks it could be a clogged cat / cats,..I was pretty sure it wasn't, sure enough, no back pressure. I'm at a loss, I replaced the plugs at 95,000 has 125,000 now, idles and starts great.
It feels like an old distributor car with a sticky shaft that doesn't want to advance, once in a while it feels almost normal, now a lot of people might not even feel it, it will still go 90, but won't lay rubber for 30ft like it used to, might chirp but definitely something not right,..is there any way to confirm throttle body opening all the way? I don't think it would be wise to run it with air box off and by pass mass air sensor right?
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Ive been looking around for Pickups for a wile now and found one (at the manheim auto auction) and it is a beauty. Crew Cab Long Box lariant with every factory option available for a 2008 6.8L Triton V10 truck. AND it only has 64,000 miles on it!!!
Pre Sale Inspection told us the truck has the upper engine tick that is heard sometimes in the V10. Doesn't seem to at all affect drive ability. Block announcement would be Green light, yellow light for upper engine noise. Truck has been priced accordingly. Look at what MMR is.
What this is, id like to put an offer in on the truck but if at 19,600 dollars if i am gonna have to do a lot of motor work or put a new motor in it i dont see it being worth it.
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On my 2004 s-cab the steering is starting go 'notchy'?
I have considered, tight upper or lower ball joints, pump, rack or even a sticking rear diff, but not carried out any checks yet except oil level
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My ex-wife has a 2008 Prius. When trying to get heat, either using Auto A/C or manual, the display panel shows that only the floor vents are open. However, forced air is flowing from the upper vents on the dash. The air from these vents is not warmed. It seems to be unheated outside air. It's unclear whether this is a new problem, since the owner doesn't know if this behavior has been there since she bought the car. She does report that the car has always taken a long time to get comfortable in winter.
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I have a 2007 F150 with the 5.4 FFV. Early last summer my truck started acting like the harmonic balancer was going bad, when it was hot out my engine would shake at an idle. Then in October it threw a check engine light, wouldn't get over 20 mph and was shaking the entire truck. The codes said my timing was out so I replaced the timing chains, guides and tensioners, which were bad on the passenger side. When I started it back up it ran rough, and the check engine light came back on with a "bank A over-retarded" code.
So I went back in thinking I had put the chain on one tooth off. Got it back together and it ran the same way. After doing some soul searching on this website I determined the VCT Solenoid for the driver's side may be bad, and I went back in a third time and replaced the solenoid. Now it runs worse than it did the first time, it won't even idle and it is nearly impossible to start in the first place... This truck only has 103,000 miles and was running great before this...
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I own an '07 SCrew with the 5.4L V8. The engine is very dusty and I want to clean it. Any best way to do this and any areas that I need to avoid getting wet..
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I've got a check engine light on but the truck runs fine. I checked the fluid levels everything seemed normal. Any special trick that I could try to reset this check engine light myself? It's got the 4.6 L, Stock no mods, been keeping the regular service intervals at the dealership.
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I have a problem. My 2007 ford f150 4x4 5.4 triton engine starts to flutter and stalls when its in reverse, engine is warm, and I am backing up a trailer with about 5,000 lbs on it. It drives fine with or without towing. I did notice it does it with nothing behind it on occasion. Whats causing this?
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Much done as well. I bought a powertrain and engine that are from a 2009 their both supercrew can I swap the cab easily are they compatible
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Im trying to chase down an engine miss fire on a 2007 with the 5.4L. It only seems to miss under no-load conditions, such as at idle and on a downgrade while driving. Acceleration and under a load it runs fine. New Champion plugs were installed at 135,000 miles. The truck now has 150,000 miles and has only been miss firing for the last 1,000 miles or so. I pulled the connector off of the coils one at a time to try and figure out which cylinder/s were missing. I thought I found the problem ones and replaced two of the coils, but it ended up not fixing the issue. Ive tried spraying carb cleaner at and around the intake to check for leaks, but found none. I have a scanner, but the check engine light is not on, so its not much luck.
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So I was installing my head spacer. When i got the head off I noticed the upper two timing chain rails were shot. The tensioner rail has wear marks from the chain and a small crack in it. Is it possible to change these upper two rails without dropping the transmission?
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